BACK TO SANTORINI
Table of Contents:
BREAKFAST.
LUNCH.
DINNER.
BEER/LIQUEUR.
SUMMARY.
Wines of Santorini Greek Beers. Greek Spirits.
Not Just a Pretty Island.
Yes, you know Santorini for its dramatic scenery and possibly its ancient sites. If you are up on wine, you know you need to taste Santorini wines. But what about the cuisine? Does this Trophy-wife island have any culinary secrets? Is there a taste Santorini specializes in that you need to try?
Can we learn anything about their ancient cuisine? If we look at the wall paintings from Akrotiri, we see fishing was a part of day-to-day living. There is another one of a lady collecting saffron, an ancient indication of agriculture.
Also, there are the skeletons of sheep, goats, pigs, and even cows. From their bones, scientists can see that their diets included island weeds and grain. They are also finding ancient seeds, another indication of the local people growing their food.
From the vessels (pots and vases) excavated, we know olive oil and wine were also part of the ancient diet.
Written records from the Venetian times indicate that vegetables and grains lead the island’s diet with seafood as a supplement. So the islanders were eating well in olden times, but what about today?
Santorini Cuisine Today.
How can Santorini produce have any taste? It’s a volcanic island, so it’s all rock with no soil. The volcanic part is genuine. However, there has not been an eruption (covering the entire island with lava) for some time. Over hundreds of years, some lava has been breaking down into smaller bits.
In more recent times, with advances in agriculture, Santorini farmers have been able to improve their land.
Also, they have cultivated crops that thrive in the rocky soil and limited rainfall. It rarely rains in the growing season.
That’s why Santorini has numerous products with the P.D.O. (Protected Designation of Origin) label today.
P.D.O. and should-be.
The Santorini Cherry Tomato is a P.D.O. product. The soil and climate can only support the growth of tiny tomatoes. But, they have enough flavor for one twice their size.
You can find them fresh in salads, sun-dried in an entree, as a sauce, or in a tomato fritter. You should taste Santorini tomatoes.
Split Peas (fava) is another P.D.O. product. Think fava on flavor steroids. They give the traditional local fava spread (it is NOT hummus) a delicious taste and a silky texture.
After 3,500 years of cultivation, they have perfected this crop with warm local olive oil and capers.
Soon to Be.
White Eggplant: this is a rare type of Eggplant that is white. It has a creamy flesh and fruity sweet flavor. Look for it raw in salads, fried, and moussaka.
Although moussaka is not exclusive to the island, you should taste Santorini’s with the local Eggplant. It is in the process of becoming a P.D.O.
Santorini Capers: This bud comes from a bush that grows in the wild just about anywhere.
They are in various recipes to spice them up with their bitter, savory taste. Why should you taste Santorini’s capers? Instead of pickling them, they sun-dry the buds and then add liquid to rehydrate them when they use them. These will probably be a P.D.O. product someday.
Breakfast
Traditional breakfast is the same from town to town in Greece. Yogurt with an array of toppings appears on almost every table.
The toppings are quite often homemade. A local favorite on Santorini is a sweet spread made with the local tomato. They add a dash of cinnamon, a blanched almond in the middle, and sweet syrup.
Dakos starts with a homemade barley rusk (a cross between toast and a large crouton.) Then, they cover it with local tomato bits and local cheese. Think breakfast bruschetta. Let the tomato juice slightly soften the rusk before eating.
You can expect other Cycladic cheeses and sweet and savory pies depending on the available ingredients and cheeses.
The larger your hotel, the more you may find western items on the buffet.
Pancakes, waffles, and even eggs may replace homemade savory pies. Many of the ultra-deluxe properties have foo-foo breakfast. If I want a dutch pancake, I will go to Holland.
If your lodging does not include breakfast, go for a walk in one of the town’s old sections. Here, you should find a bakery already churning out fresh baked goods. Follow your nose.
Lunch.
Lunch is not the big meal of the day as in some European countries. However, most tavernas will offer moussaka, pastitsio, and other classic Greek dishes.
Cafes will have sandwiches, salads, and souvlaki. Traditional, but not unique to Santorini. The Santorini salad is a Greek salad with the available local vegetables.
The Local soft cheese:
- Chloro – is white goat cheese and one of the most popular cheeses made on Santorini. O.K., it is the only one. It has a soft texture and distinctive flavor. Local recipes use this soft version instead of feta, while there is a firmer version for grating.
Unfortunately, there are few goats, fewer sheep, and possibly no cows on the island. Therefore the local goat cheese may or may not be available.
For all the other cheeses, they have to import. Markets and specialty shops will have cheese from nearby Naxos, Ios, Andros, and other Greek islands.
Santorini does not produce the sausages and smoked meats you find on many Cycladic islands. I know I have never seen a pig on Santorini. Luckily, they import these meats from neighboring islands, including Tinos and Crete.
Dinner
Dinner comes after sunset. Wine and mezes come before.
It depends on what is fresh as to what Meze (appetizers) you might find.
- Psarolia Psita – are little fish they sun-dry and eat as crunchy Meze. These are popular in winter when fresh produce is not readily available.
- Poulia Yemista – are zucchini (courgette) flowers with a stuffing of rice, tomato, mint, onion, and other fresh ingredients.
- Pseftokeftedes – are fake (meatless) meatballs. Instead, using many combinations of greens or vegetables, they chop them up, dip in batter and fry them.
- Ntomatokeftedes – are fake meatballs with the local Santorini tomato as the main ingredient. When you see these on a menu, order them.
Seafood.
Fish and seafood head most menus due to being so accessible.
- Brandade of Salt Cod – is a local dish of fried cod in a garlic sauce.
- Marinated fish – will depend on what they catch. They marinate it in vinegar and rosemary before frying it.
And you will find all the regular grilled and fried seafood offerings. I prefer to eat near the water when I know it will be a seafood night. Is it any fresher? Who knows.
Non-Seafood.
Some local dishes not involving seafood include:
- Sfoungato – is an omelet (breakfast?), but they usually serve it at lunch or supper. It includes potatoes, and many islands have a variation. For example, in Santorini, it contains the local tomatoes and Eggplant.
- Skordomakarona – is a thick spaghetti (remember, the Venetians were here for some time) with garlic that they brown.
- Kouneli Tyravgoulo – is pieces of rabbit they saute with garlic and onions. Then, they cover it with a thick sauce of egg, wine, and cheese.
I had this at a taverna, maybe in Pyrgos, more than 20 years ago. I have not found that taverna again or seen it on a menu since. I’m hoping it still exists.
Like Mykonos, there are many trendy restaurants where you can get foo-foo variations of Greek and International dishes. But that’s not why I go to Greece. And, there is still THAT place with golden arches in Fira. But, I never see people in it as I walk quickly past.
Desserts.
Why would you not want to taste Santorini’s desserts?
- Kopania – is a traditional treat where they crush barley rusks and mix them with raisins and sesame seeds. Then they form them into balls and sprinkle them with roasted sesame seeds.
- Meletinia – is, unfortunately, only around at Easter. It is a sweet (sugar and cinnamon) mini cheese pie.
- Santorini Pudding – is the island’s version of semolina and milk. The kicker is the local Vinsanto sauce that goes on top.
Taste Santorini Wine.
The essential P.D.O. products on the island are the wines. Therefore, there is a whole section on them.
Some people visit here to taste Santorini’s wines.
Taste Santorini Beer.
Greek beer? Is there such a thing? There was, and then there wasn’t, and now there is again.
Greece had several large breweries during the 1900s. Beginning in the 1960s, corporate invaders descend from the north. They are buying up the Greek breweries until there are none with Greek owners.
In the 1990s, a microbrewery opens in Athens. Greece has a Greek-owned brewery again. Since that time, nearly 80 microbreweries have opened throughout Greece.
Two are on the island of Santorini.
Volkan Beer.
They began brewing in 2011. The owners need to use local ingredients for a taste Santorini can call its own. These “ingredients” include lava rock to filter the water, local Santorini honey, and Citron from nearby Naxos. Not only does it give the beers a unique taste, but it allows local farmers to stay in business.
As of 2018, they are up to four different beers.
- Santorini Blonde (pilsner)
- Santorini Black (dark German-like)
- Volkan Santorini White (wheat beer)
- Santorini Silver (exotic wheat) beer.
You can find their beers in many tavernas across the island. In 2016 they opened a cafe in conjunction with Ergon, a network of small, independent food artisans. It is between the cable car station and the Three Bells (Virgin Mary) Church in Fira.
Santorini Brewing Company
They make the Donkey beers at their brewery between Pyrgos and the Santorini airport. They are open for visits most afternoons except Sunday.
Santorini Brewing Company brews five different ales using locally sourced malted barley, yeast, and water. In addition, they import an assortment of hops, some from as far away as New Zealand.
- Yellow Donkey – is a blonde ale with a slight citrus taste.
- Red Donkey – is an amber ale with a mix of malts.
- Crazy Donkey – is Greece’s first I.P.A.
- White Donkey – is their wheat (Weiss) beer.
- Slow Donkey – They only produce this a few times a year in limited quantity. It is a slow process that includes aging the beer in previously used Santorini wine barrels.
You can find their beers easily in many local bars and restaurants.
If you are a beer drinker, taste Santorini beers. You will be pleasantly surprised.
Liqueurs.
Thanks to Canava Santorini, you can try several drinks made on Santorini. Of course, none of them are exclusive to the island. However, each island gives its twist due to water, local produce, or their recipe.
Canava Santorini began distilling liqueurs in 1974. Today, the next generation of the family is continuing the tradition. They offer tastings at their location just off the road between the new port and Fira.
Some of the liqueurs they offer include:
- Ouzo – is the after-dinner drink with Anise flavoring. The alcohol comes from distilling local grapes.
- Tsikoudia – also starts from the local Assyrtiko, Aidani, and Athiri grapes. They distill it four times, making a smooth brandy-like liqueur.
Many restaurants and tavernas may have homemade liqueurs. However, use caution on the first sip as the alcohol content varies widely.
These liqueurs are better when consuming them with a bit of food; some fruit, cheese, or a small cookie. But taste Santorini liqueurs.
Taste Santorini Summary.
The main towns are getting too many touristy places for my taste. But, there are still some mom and pops on the back streets. Or, you can flee to nearby villages. Here you can taste Santorini’s centuries-old cuisine the way it should be.
To read more about Greek Cuisine.