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Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
SHOULD-SEE SANTORINI.
OTHER VILLAGES.
BEACHES.
ANCIENT SITES.
Santorini (Thera, Thira) is perhaps the best known of the Greek islands thanks to an incredible marketing campaign. Even the queen of Greece chose it for the cover of an international tourism brochure.
The island everyone refers to as Santorini is the largest island of a small, circular archipelago, which bears the same name. The other islands being Therasia (inhabited,) and the uninhabited islands of Aspronisi, Christiana, Nea Kameni, and Palea Kameni.
It is the southernmost member of the Cyclades group of islands.
The main island runs north to south with the caldera (lagoon) on the west side and sloping downward to the Aegean Sea on the east.
It forms a crescent around 2/3rds of the caldera. On the west side of the lagoon is the island of Therasia, between the northern and southern tips of the big island. This island creates two entrances into the bay.
So what makes this active volcano so popular? The dramatic scenery.
The Big Bang Theory.
It is the result of an enormous volcanic eruption around 160 BC., that destroyed much of the island, wiping out the people and animals living there. Also, it created a tsunami more than 400 feet high and climate change that had significant impacts on nearby islands and lands hundreds of miles away. The eruption created the current geological caldera, (inner lagoon) which measures about 7.5 by 4.3 miles. Surrounding it on three sides are cliffs, the highest being more than 1200 ft above sea level. The colorful rings or layers of rock are a geographical timeline of the island’s growing up out of the sea.
Deep and Wide
The caldera continues for more than 1300 feet below the waterline. There are parts where they still are not sure where the bottom is. The depth makes it impossible to build piers or for anything smaller than a cruise ship to anchor. There are small fisherman’s harbors at Vlychada in the south, Ammoudi in the north (below Oia), and Ormos Firon, (below Fira) and the ferry port at Athinios, but these are chiseled out of the rock more than they are floating docks.
The Minoan eruption (sometimes called the Thera or Santorini eruption) is one of the most massive volcanic eruptions in recorded history. As there is no specific written history from this time, the event has become part of numerous legends that may or may not have some truth in them. Many scientists believe that the ash cloud and tsunami led indirectly to the collapse of the Minoan civilization on the island of Crete, 68 miles to the south. It certainly sterilized the Minoan colonies on Santorini. Another popular theory holds that the Thera eruption is the source of the legend of Homer’s Atlantis, a city that “sank” into the sea.
Still Steamed.
The island sits in the most active volcanic center of the South Aegean Volcanic Arc, where the European and African continents are crashing together.
Today, Nea Kameni is visible in the center of the caldera. This active volcano is growing from a vent in the previous volcano that created, then blew up most of the island. First appearing above the water in 47 AD, it has grown to its present size through numerous eruptions. The highest point on the island is more than 400 feet above the water. A favorite activity is to climb on the rocks, smell the sulfur it is expelling and swim in the lagoon heated by underwater thermal vents. Another smaller volcano, Palea Kameni, is behind it.
Underwater eruptions and small earthquakes continue to this day. The last quake over 7. to hit Santorini was in 1956.
Or you can believe the other theory. Triton (messenger of the sea) gave the Greek Argonaut Euphemus, (a son of Poseidon,) a chunk of dirt. After carrying the soil next to his heart and moistening it with milk from his breast, it turned into a nymph (daughter of Nereus.) He immediately had sex with her. It must not have been good for the girl. She told him to throw her into the sea. If he did, she would emerge as an island where his descendants could live. Or, he knocked her up, and the clod of dirt became an island for her to hide the baby from her angry father.
Ancient Thira
For some reason, the island remained unoccupied throughout the rest of the Bronze Age. (Stone, Bronze (3200–600 BC), Iron.) Phoenicians began a settlement on Thera probably around the 17th century B.C. during their westward expansion.
In the 9th century BC, Dorians founded a Hellenic city on Mesa Vouno, 1,299 ft above sea level, on the islands SE coast. (Ancient Thera.) They were one of the few islands that did not join the Delian League, and they sided, with Dorian Sparta, against Athens.
For several hundred years the Greek islands fight amongst themselves while the Roman Empire conquers the mainland. Eventually, the islands fall under the Roman rule, but they treat most islands as after-thoughts.
Less Ancient.
With the splitting of the Roman Empire in 395 A.D., Thera falls under the eastern (Byzantine) side of the Empire. It continues to pretty much rule itself.
The volcano erupts again in the summer of 727. Now the Byzantines lose almost all interest in the island.
Saint Irene is the island’s patron saint. The name Santurin (Sant Urin) is given to the island In 1153, by a Muslim geographer.
With the Fourth Crusade in 1204, the Byzantines lose and all of Greece, including the islands, is split up by the Franks as war prizes. Venetian Giacomo Barozzi, names himself as the baron of Santorini and Thirasia.
Suliman, the Ottoman sultan, declares war on Venice (and all of its holdings). By 1537 they conquer most of the mainland and Peloponesse. They next turn their attention toward the Greek islands taking Santorini in 1576. But, they have very little interest in it. However, Joseph Nasi, the Court Jew and a favorite of Sultan Selim II, is given authority over Santorini, allowing the island to retain a privileged position.
Like other Cycladic islands, Santorini was briefly under Russian control during the Russo-Turkish War of 1768–1774. That did not last for long.
The island joined the Greek War of Independence soon after it began in the spring of 1821. It became part of the Kingdom of Greece in 1832.
Santorini Today.
The 1956 earthquake did a lot of damage in the north part of Santorini. This lead to locals and their businesses leaving the island. At the same time, Americans were beginning to travel, and Santorini’s beauty was on their radar.
The local government jumped on the tourism bandwagon and soon the government of Greece, still reeling from the last World War, saw the benefit of tourists. The Acropolis became the poster child for Athens and Santorini for the Greek Islands.
Today, Santorini’s primary industry is tourism. Travel magazines and sites include it on almost all of their top or must-see lists.
An estimated 2 million tourists visit annually, the majority of them between April and October. That’s a lot of people on an island that is only 28 square miles in size.
What is in Santorini for me?
See & Hear.
Visitors can focus on the “ancient” sites, some dating from 500 BC. And you should not miss the natural beauty of the island.
Immerse yourself in one of the small but intriguing museums.
Another option is to sit in one of the squares, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Stroll the big towns and small villages. In the larger ones, you can catch the aroma of coffee wafting out of one of the trendy coffee shops.
In the villages, it may be the smell of a bakery. And try the local wine. Most wineries have visiting areas for sampling.
Feel.
Watch one of the famous Santorini sunsets as you listen to classical music and sip wine from a vineyard, not more than five miles from where you’re sitting.
Contemplate your day of climbing over a volcano or walking down a street that is over 2500 years old.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Santorini.
In Town.
Santorini has a small but busy commercial airport. The arrival can be quite scenic depending on the direction of your descent.
However, with the magnificent cliffs of the caldera surrounding you, growing higher as you approach, why would you arrive any other way than by boat?
Fira (Fira Town, Thera)
The main town, and also the capital of the island, is Fira. Although it is the largest town on the island, it is not the oldest. It is the cultural and commercial hub of the island.
Almost every day in the summer months, cruise ships and ferries purge hundreds or thousands of guests who, along with the hotel guests, descend on Fira.
In 2018, the island began limiting how many guests could arrive in one day by cruise ship to 8000. This rule was due to days with more than 12,000 guests in 2017.
Of the more than 1000 places to stay on the island, almost 300 of them are in the Fira area alone.
Why so much talk about the number of people? Because this is not New York City or even Athens. This island covers 28 square miles and has a population in the winter at around 25,000. It grows to nearly 32,000 in the summer.
So on busy summer days, you may be looking at 40,000 people trying to wiggle out a spot on the rock. To add to this, the majority of streets in Fira, well, all towns, is pedestrian-only. Picture the Super Bowl having a fire evacuation. Sometimes, you have to go where the person in front of you is going because turning is not an option.
So should you skip Fira altogether? No. But if you are staying on the island, avoid it between 10 am and 4 pm if there are cruise ships in the harbor. (Tuesday – Thursday are usually the busiest.) As these are the hottest hours of the day, there is another reason to stay pool or beachside.
Museum of Prehistoric Thera
They could call it the Museum of Akrotiri as it houses the incredible finds from the archeological site.
Although there are also pieces from the 20th – 18th centuries B.C., the majority are from Akrotiri’s peak, during the 17th century B.C. These include jewelry, pottery, and the incredible wall paintings (frescoes.)
Archaeological Museum Fira.
In short, everything else from the island that is not from Akrotiri. Minoan, Hellenistic, and Byzantine pieces as well as a few items from prehistoric times.
Megaro Gyzi Museum.
The site is a part art museum, part cultural center. Here, you can look into the island’s history through photos, paintings, and printed material. The building is one of the few family mansions from the 17th century to survive the 1956 earthquake.
Lignos Folklore Museum
For more of a glimpse into how day to day life on the island used to be, visit this museum, which includes a typical cave house and its furnishings. There is also a chapel and homemade winery on the property. Very insightful.
Gold Shops
Although I am not a big shopper, you cannot talk about Santorini without mentioning the gold shops. Gold lines the streets, well gold shops line the passageways. Think of the perfume department of a vast department store, and 80 clerks armed with atomizers. This image will give you an idea of the gold gauntlet of Fira town.
Is gold cheaper in Greece? No. The cost of gold is the same anywhere in the world. So why buy gold in Greece?
Much of the gold jewelry in Greece they make by hand. Ouch! That means higher prices. Compared to the machine-made stuff this is correct, it will cost more. But compare it to other handmade jewelry you can often find better prices thanks to Greece’s economy.
Not half off, but 10 – 15% off gold jewelry prices in other countries.
The main reason to buy gold is unique designs, many of them Greek in origin. The majority of the gold they use is between 18-20 karat.
In Santorini, many shops can design something for you if you are going to be there a few days.
Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist
This small church is adjacent to the Monastery of Dominican Sisters, just north of the cable car station. Look for the creamsicle orange building in a sea of white.
The Baroque and Byzantine church dates from 1823. Probably not like your church back home. You should always cover your shoulders and knees when visiting a religious or memorial site. Remember, you are a traveler and do this out of respect. You should also remove hats before entering unless a head covering is necessary at the site. (Scarves, yarmulke, etc.)
For those who have never seen a monastery, pop around the corner after the church. You can view a few rooms accessible to the public.
Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral.
Easy to spot from just about any angle, this massive church overlooks the caldera. As Greek churches go, it is relatively new. It was built to replace the previous cathedral damaged in the 1956 earthquake.
The ceiling and chandelier are pretty. I like the color palette in use on the walls. I sometimes go in to escape the crowds outside for a few minutes and bring my blood pressure down.
THAT Fira Picture
You know the one — the postcard photo of Fira, with the blue dome, three=bell tower against the caldera as a backdrop.
The church under the dome and bells is Virgin Mary Catholic Church. Also referred to as Three Bells of Fira.
You can walk to the front of the church in about ten minutes from the cable car station heading north. You will walk right past it as you are looking for a white church with a blue dome. The church building is a buttery yellow, and from below, you cannot see the blue dome.
“The” photo is from above the church in a parking lot adjacent to the Santorini Palace Hotel. Once you are in front of the church, there is no easy way to get to the upper lot. From the cable car station, set out for the hotel. You will thank me later. This site (parking lot above) is the only place on my Fira list you can reach by car.
Karavolades Stairs
If you are staying on the island, these will probably be something you see from Fira Town. Aren’t they interesting?
If you are visiting by cruise ship, these become a nightmare. When a liner arrives at Santorini, hopefully, they send people on tour ashore at the ferry dock at Athinious.
The ship then continues to the old port of Ormos Firon. As mentioned before, most ships cannot anchor due to the depth of the caldera, and there is no dock large enough to accommodate a cruise ship of any size.
So people must tender ashore on small boats to a short pier, already overcrowded with tavernas and tour shops. You are at sea level. Fira town is more than 800 feet above you.
Here you are faced with several options.
The best option is probably to turn around and go back to your ship. But that’s no longer a choice as Fira is now closer and prettier than ever. You must (should) see it.
Cable Car
Your first option is a cable car that takes about three minutes, ONCE you are on it. The lift can move 1200 people in one hour at peak efficiency; the operation is anything but efficient.
The cruise ships that are calling on the island, on average, carry more than 2400 guests and 800+ crew. If a train leaves Chicago at 8 am… I hear horror stories of waiting more than two hours to get on the cable car.
Ever since the first cable car opened in the 1980s, they have been talking about an additional cable car. In 2015 construction of one began. Stay tuned for the opening.
Donkeys
The next option is the more controversial, by Donkey. Long before cable cars, these beasts of burden were the primary source for moving goods and people. On some islands, they still are.
The average donkey can carry approximately 20% of its weight. So with saddle, that leaves room for about 150 – 190 pounds.
In the old days, that was an adult, a child, and some supplies. Today, unfortunately, many of the people I see riding these creatures ate that much at the breakfast buffet. A few should be carrying the donkey…
Then there is the climb. Somewhere between 580 to 620 steps depending on where you start counting.
Side note: I see people get in heated arguments about the number of stairs. After 500, (100) I am in a daze. Do 20 more (or less) matter?
However many you think it is, that’s the right number. Moving on.
If you are there in the summer, it is usually 80 degrees by 9:00 in the morning. Most of these animals will go up and down 4 or more times on a busy day.
Then there is the care of the animals. I am sure that there are some terrible owners but if the donkey is your livelihood, are you going to harm it?
Finally, in 2018, the island writes legislation on the donkey’s behalf. Animals are not allowed to carry more than 220 pounds of cargo (supplies or tourists) on their backs. Let’s see when (if) that begins. Did I mention on warm days, you may smell like your donkey for the rest of the day?
Walking
The last resort is to walk. In addition to the number of steps, and the heat, and the crowds, there is solid proof, right where you are stepping, that the donkeys are receiving food. You share the same staircase as the donkeys.
The stairs, most of them on an incline and the stones worn smooth from millions of feet passing over, are already slick. On top of this add summer dust and donkey poop.
I have had several guests come limping back to the ship with strains, sprains, and now and then a broken ankle. Closed-toe shoes with excellent traction are a great idea. Did I mention the smell?
Most of the villages are pedestrian-only with numerous steps up and down. You will appreciate the right pair of shoes all day.
Interesting fact – I think I have had more female guests complain about breaking the heal off their shoes in this port, than any other in Europe. Did you listen to my talk? Yes, but we didn’t think you meant it.
You Must Hate Santorini.
On the contrary, I have been to the island over 40 times, have several people I call friends here, and look forward to my next trip. Off-season.
But I want to share the reality as there is always someone complaining to me about the lines, crowds, and donkeys. (All things I mention in my talk on the port before arriving.)
If you know these things may be a “challenge”, then you are set to handle them. I have had too many people ruin their day (and the day of anyone within earshot) because “nobody told them about…”
Oia
First of all, it is not a Yiddish word. It is pronounced E (as in bee) ya. (as in ya all.) Not Oye yay, which I have heard too many times.
Ekklisia Panagia Platsani
This church is hard to miss as it sits in the middle of town just off the main walking street (Nik. Nomikou).
The original church stood inside the castle at the town’s edge. Falling in the 1956 earthquake, they constructed this building on the more stable town square. If you did not see the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist in Fira, stop to see the inside of this church.
The interior is a traditional Greek Orthodox Church with murals, icons, and ornate decoration. Sacred vessels, donations from travelers over the centuries, are on display.
The Blue Churches.
The most often taken photo of Oia is one containing the rooftops (domes) of three of the town’s churches. In reality, it is only two churches. One has a second blue dome on its bell tower.
From the square, walk west on Nik Nomikou. Almost immediately on your left side will be the small Kirche Church with red window frames and doors. (look for the three bells in the tower.) The church sits on a slab above the sidewalk you are on. You turn left just beyond the church slab and start looking for the mob.
P.S. – The church closer to you with the domed bell tower is Agios Spyridonas, (St. Spyridonas.) The name of the church in the background is ‘Anastaseos’ (the resurrection of Christ.)
This information is useful to know as there are over 360 churches on the island, most are white with a blue dome. Asking where the church with the blue dome is will not get you far.
Maritime Museum
Continue west on Nik. Nomikou street and you will come to a fork in the road, the left going down and the right going up. Stay to the right. At the next corner, on the right side is the museum.
This small museum is worth a visit from the sailors in the crowd. Set in a sea captain’s house, it covers the history of the small port, the local fishing industry and includes a few items from under the sea.
The town of Oia was at its peak in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The wealth coming from the merchant fleet (numbering close to 150 ships) sailing from the harbor below.
Boats from Oia traded from Alexandria Egypt to the south, to the Russian ports on the Black Sea to the north. Some of the two-story captains’ houses still sit at the highest part of the village.
Unfortunately, the 1956 earthquake took out many. Some are now bed and breakfasts for real naval or historical aficionados.
P.S. – Right before you get to the fork in the road, there is a small Museum of Musical Instruments, or so the sign says. Across from the bookstore, I have never found it open or hours posted.
The Museum contains Ancient, Byzantine and Post-Byzantine musical instruments. Opening in 2011, it is the private collection of a prominent musician. One of the highlights (I hear) is a musical instrument dating from 2,800 B.C.
Byzantine Castle Ruins
Double back to the fork in the road and this time take the left fork down the steps. At this point, the street does not have a name. Follow it to the end. Eventually, you will see water ahead of you instead of endless white walls.
At the end of the island, you will see walls with reddish and brown rocks instead of painted white. These are the few remaining pieces of the 15th-century Byzantine Castle.
The castle was the seat of the Argyri family during the Venetian rule of the island. Today, it offers a 360-degree view of Oia, including the windmill. In the evening, people watching the sunset use it for seating and climbing. I prefer a location with an adult beverage and a comfy chair.
The rest of the town is a mix-match of cafes, boutiques, and art galleries. Oia is the artist colony of the island, and you will find shops with drawings, paintings, pottery, glass, and even linens made by hand.
Other Villages.
Imerovigli
This picturesque village was once separate from Fira. Today, it is a little unclear where one ends, and the other begins. Like Fira, it offers views over the caldera. It is made up of hotels, cafes, and tavernas.
There are fewer shops due to its distance from central Fira. It is not on the way to anything except a hotel or restaurant, so the amount of people is less than central Fira. It might be worth visiting just for that.
For hikers and photographers, it is the gateway to Skaros, (Skaros hill, rock, castle fort.)
A Venetian fortress dating from 1207 A.D. sat on this butte sticking out into the caldera. In its heyday (1300 – 1500) the town had more than 200 buildings and several hundred residents. It began to lose its trade to Fira and Oia, and soon people abandoned it.
Around 1650, several volcanic eruptions sent parts of the town sliding into the sea. Again in the early 1700s and around 1866 additional sections were shaken free by the volcano. Not much remains today but a few foundations.
It is excellent for hiking and photos from a different angle. A small monastery, Chapel of Panagia Theoskepasti, sits on the caldera side.
Emporio
On a hill with views of the southern coast of the island, Emporio is an excellent traditional village to get lost in for a few hours.
As you climb to the top, you will see parts of a 15th-century fortress, which the town is slowly reclaiming. There are several churches with impressive bell towers, beautiful traditional houses with large wooden doors, and charming narrow streets. There is no must-see here, so the tourist buses whiz by to the beach. That alone is a great reason to visit.
Megalochori
Another traditional village that is not on everyone’s must-see list is Megalochori. However, the town does attract more travelers as it has several upscale places to stay and some delicious tavernas.
Think of it as Santorini’s version of Yountville in California’s Napa Valley. Why would you do that? The Napa is a wine region. Well, Megalochori is in the middle of Santorini’s wine area. Although nowhere near the size of the Napa or with as many producers, Santorini has made an international name for itself in the wine world. Sampling the local wine is a must on Santorini.
See more about the WINES OF SANTORINI
Pyrgos
The highest village and the former capital of the island, Pyrgos has some grand vistas of the island. With the remains of a Venetian castle at the top, the village terraces down the hill in a mix of traditional houses and other buildings. There are several art galleries and for those reaching the top, a place to reward yourself with an adult beverage with a view.
While in Pyrgos, take the approximately ten-minute drive up to the Monastery of Profitis Ilias, located at 1853 feet above sea level. From here, the highest point on Santorini, you can see the entire island.
The monastery is now a museum with a significant collection of Greek Orthodox icons, as well as hand-printed books and bibles, artwork, and carvings. Monks are living there who may demonstrate traditional carpentry, shoemaking, and other skills they need to be self-sustainable.
Lifes a Beach
South of the airport on the east side of the island there are two beach towns flanking Mesa Vouna (mountain.)
Kamari
Kamari, closer to the airport, is the cosmopolitan (resort) beach town. It has a promenade to walk. There are cafes, tourist shops and, water sports rentals everywhere. You could be on just about any island.
What sets it apart is the black-sand beach — actually more small black-pebble than sand. Shoes that can get dusty are a smart idea. Intriguing to look at but it can get uncomfortably (blister-creating) hot in the middle of summer, and I have had some items of white clothing that never seemed entirely white again after visiting this beach of lava charcoal. Kamari Beach runs into Monolithos beach somewhere near the airport.
Perissa
Similar to Kamari, but I think, less touristy. I did not say “no tourists” just less. The promenade is a street you share with traffic. The stores, cafes, and clubs are more spread out.
The beach seems to be to have more sand in the pebble mixture. Although it is right next to Kamari, because of the mountain in between you have to drive almost to the west coast of the island to get around to Perissa. I wonder if that extra drive is what keeps some tourists from reaching the shores of Perissa.
Further away from the “rock” and it becomes Perivolos Beach. It is usually less crowded than Perissa. It does attract the backpackers looking for a beach party.
There’s Always One.
Akrotiri
It’s a little bit traditional; it’s a little bit of rock and roll. Akrotiri sits by itself at the southwest end of the island. It overlooks the caldera but is not clinging precariously over the edge. Instead of an endless line of hotels stacked one upon each other, there are private homes and in some places open lots (for now.)
In my opinion, it has the best Venetian ruins on the island. Akrotiri’s 13th-century castle was still in great shape up until the earthquake in 1956. It’s worth a climb up to see what’s left and there are some lovely views from it looking down.
The village does not have the endless miles of pedestrian passageways where you can lose yourself. It has one of my favorite tavernas, but its outside of town.
Akrotiri has the most important archeological site in Santorini which goes by the same name.
The lighthouse is a 10-minute drive and offers excellent sunsets. After dark, the view from Akrotiri towards Fira and Oia is magical. Akrotiri is a village like no other.
Red Beach
As if Akrotiri isn’t different enough from other villages, instead of having a black-sand beach, it has a red one. Red beach is a dramatic setting of a rocky beach with limited sand and angry red cliffs behind it. The red color comes from iron in the rock sand. (Think rust.)
There are three ways to access the beach. One is to drive to Akrotiri beach (just beyond the archeological site.) From here you must walk along a dirt path over uneven terrain to climb down to the beach.
Another option is to drive over a series of poorly maintained back roads (goat path?) in an attempt to reach the small entrance at the west end of the beach. The path down to the beach is a little less treacherous.
As with most beaches on the island, Red Beach is lovely to look at, but not great for a day at the beach. There is not enough sand to rock in the mixture to make reclining on a towel comfortable to anyone. Also, there is no place to purchase water or food, but there are sunbeds at the west end for rent.
Also for Consideration.
The thing I find most interesting is that in 2013, due to increased rock slides at the beach, the island “closed” the beach to public access. They posted signs at both ends warning of the danger and asked hotels to advise guests. The program met with great success until the sun came up the next day. The last time I was there, I saw people taking their picture next to the warning sign, before hiking off to the beach. What could go wrong? It’s not like the island has a history of seismic activity…
The third option is to see the beach from the water. Small water taxis depart from nearby beaches determined to put you on the beach. You don’t have to get out of the boat. There are also daily boat trips from Fira that visit this beach and usually a nearby beach called White beach.
Vlychada (White) Beach.
Is it called White beach because it has powdery sugar-like sand? No, it has white ROCKS. Santorini beaches have rocks. The unique cliffs that run along the back of the beach are white.
Most of the beach is a mixture of light and black pebbles. An old tomato factory sits at the east end of the beach, its chimney making it very easy to spot. Now a small museum to the tomato industry on the island, it and the white cliffs make Vlychada photogenic. You can also reach it by car following the road south and east from Megalochori.
Parque Natural Geologico Nacional De Nea Kameni
Another place where rock and water meet, and people like to swim, is the Natural Park located in the middle of the caldera. Boats depart daily to the volcanos where guests sometimes see steam, smell sulfur, and feel the waters warmed by undersea vents.
The site itself is exciting if you have never seen volcanos up close. Unfortunately, the majority of the boats going there are little more than cargo ships with one guide screaming in five languages.
Private boat hires are possible. They are more expensive than the mass market tours and fill up weeks in advance during summer months.
Archeological Sites
Santorini has the blessing of two ancient sites. One is good. The other is great.
Prehistoric Town of Akrotiri
This site is the Pompeii of Greece. A city that a volcano filled with volcanic ash before sealing it over with lava The difference is that Pompeii dates from 79 A.D. Ancient Akrotiri dates to the 16th century… B.C.
Another difference from Pompeii is that they did not find any human remains at Akrotiri and very few personal belongings. Many believe the island had early warning, either through earthquakes, or smaller eruptions, and had time to make an orderly evacuation before the big boom.
The bad news is that they probably fled to Crete, which received an enormous Tsunami when the island exploded.
Here you can see multi-storeyed buildings faced with masonry. There is also an elaborate drainage system including some of the first instances of indoor lavatories. Some of the vivid frescoes are on display at the museum in Fira.
Many scholars and historians believe that Akrotiri, with its sophistication, could be Plato’s inspiration for the city of Atlantis. Closed on Mondays.
Ancient Thera.
Although not in as good of shape as Ancient Akrotiri, the mountaintop site of Ancient Thera can be very interesting. There were inhabitants here from the 9th century BC until 726 AD. When you reach the top, it will be easy to see why it was so easy to defend.
There is a road from Kamari Village that will take you most of the way up the mountain. There is a dirt path from the base on the Perissa side. It is not a scenic hike.
From the ticket booth, it will take you about 15 minutes to walk uphill to the first point of interest, the ruin of the small Ekklisia Agios Stefanos chapel.
This building dates from the Byzantine period but makes a great excuse to stop and catch your breath. The path is mostly paved up to this point. Any guests with a fear of heights will probably want to skip this site altogether.
From the chapel, it is approximately another 20-minutes uphill to reach the main section of ruins. There are rocks to sit on along the way but no shade.
At The Top
This is where the majority of ruins lie. They include Archaic, Hellenistic and ruins from the Roman occupation. Some of the walls still stand more than four feet high in places, and you can make out where walls, doors, and streets were.
There are reliefs and some mosaics visible. Also visible is an ancient theater from the second century. Although not completely excavated, it is clear where the steps, seats, and stage were.
You can also make out the agora and the remains of a stoa. The views of the island are spectacular. There are some information boards around the site. A map available at the entrance has some information. Like most sites in Greece, they close on Mondays.