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Santorini Cuisine Greek Beers. Greek Spirits.
There are about 40 native varieties of grape from the island. No one is 100% sure how they came back to the island after the eruption. But hallelujah, they did, and they hold on. The Assyrtiko, Athiri and Aidani varieties are indigenous to the island.
The island of Santorini has been making, or at least consuming, wine for more than 3000 years. How do we know this? They keep finding wine casks in the excavation of Akrotiri. And not just a few, lots of wine containers.
How Old is Santorini Wine?
They are some of the oldest traditional wines in Europe. Between 1850 and 1890, the Phylloxera, a microscopic aphid, ate most of Europe’s wine vines.
Santorini’s harsh soil (designated desert) contains no clay, which the aphid needs to live. Therefore, the little “bug” tards were not able to destroy the island’s vines. The grapevines in use today are from these hearty old-timers.
Some of these vines grow to be 70 years old. The older a vine gets, it has the potential to make more complex Santorini wines.
How Do You Get Santorini Wine From a Rock?
Why are these vines so hearty? Part of the reason is the soil. They have complex deep root systems to look for any nutrients in the ground. When the old plant stops producing, they connect a new vine to the rootstock, which is already in place. Some of these root systems may be centuries old.
They prune the vines and form the plants into low nest-like bushes. They call this system koulara. This way, the grapes can grow on the inside, undamaged by the strong island winds and sun.
Old and New.
Due to the soil, they cannot use modern machinery in the vineyards. They still do the pruning and harvesting by hand.
At the wineries, many now have the latest equipment for pressing, fermenting, aging and bottling the wine. And some still stomp the grapes with their bare feet.
Local Santorini wine is quite accessible all over the island. Not only in stores, but many tavernas have their home-made wine. And it’s still possible, more in the small villages, to find older men selling their home-made wine in plastic bottles.
The island excels with its white wines. More than 70% of the grapes they grow are the Assyrtiko variety. They use them in several white wines and Vinsanto.
The Grapes
Assyrtiko
This variety is one of the indigenous grapes of Santorini. It is unusual in that it can maintain high levels of alcohol and acidity at the same time. It is one of only a few white grapes from the Mediterranean that possess excellent aging potential.
They use Assyrtiko for producing dry, full-bodied white wines. The grapes have a citrus aroma combining with a pleasing mineral character thanks to the volcanic soil.
They blend Assyrtiko with Athiri and Aidani in making the sweet wine, Vinsanto.
Athiri
This grape, also indigenous to the island, is one of the most ancient varieties of Greek grape. The name of the grape comes from Thira, the island’s name in ancient times.
During the Byzantine occupation of the island, they used Athiri to make a sweet wine. The grape by itself produces a medium-bodied wine with light aromatic qualities. They mix it with Assyrtico to create a fuller wine.
Aidani.
This grape is another indigenous variety from Santorini. It is similar to Athiri as a produces a medium body wine with nice acidity. They blend it with both Assyrtiko and Athiri.
Red Santorini Wines
Grapes for red wines account for approximately 20 percent of the island’s total vineyard area.
The soil and climate are not conducive to most red grape varieties. Most, but not all. The grapes that do grow are often a deep crimson. They produce soft tannins with fruit flavors.
Mavrotragano.
This grape was trendy for making sweet Santorini wines. When sweet wines began to lose popularity in the 1970s, many farmers were replacing the mavrotragano vines with Assyrtiko vines.
Two local winemakers began experimenting with this almost extinct grape in the late 1990s. The result was a dry red that people started buying. Since then, the Slow Food Organization has put the mavrotragano on its endangered variety list. This listing is calling more attention to the grape.
Mandilaria
This variety is another grape whose origins are now a little cloudy after several centuries. By itself, it produces a Santorini wine with deep red color, medium body, and a dark red fruit aroma.
More often, they blend it with other varieties due to its vibrant color. They also use it in the production of some sweet wines.
The Santorini Wines
Europe has a classification system that most of the countries in Europe joined. It has shaped the current wine rules and regulations in place today.
The Greeks did a real number on all their wines during WWII. The Germans, who were occupying Greece, were drinking all the excellent wine. So the Greeks begin producing bad wine and adding resin (pine sap) to add insult to injury. This wine is evil Retsina.
Side note: A form of Retsina has been around for thousands of years. The Greeks used resin to seal the bottles. Over time a small amount of the resin flavor seeped into the wine. It is not an unpleasant taste. With the Germans, it was no small amount.
The other Europen countries do not want Greece included. They do not allow the Greek wines to join the other European wines until 1971. Upon acceptance, Santorini wines receive a superior quality classification.
Today, Greek law divides wine into two basic categories.
Designation of Origin Wines (PDO Wines of Greece,)
It has two classes:
- AOQS “Designation of Origin of Superior Quality”
- AOC “Controlled Designation of Origin”
Table wines
has three categories:
- Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) Wines of Greece, (local wines)
- Traditional Appellation Wines
- Simple Table wines.
Surprisingly, many of the table wines are very good.
In ancient Greece, they were stamping wine with its origin long before Italy, France, or Spain were growing grapes.
PDO Wines of Santorini
What is an appellation? Generally, it is a legally defined and protected geographical location of origin. With wine, they use it to identify the growing areas of the grapes. The rules governing them come from their country.
Then to complicate things more, they put in restrictions. These include what grapes they can grow, how many, how to plant them, ad nauseam.
Santorini doesn’t have one. They have three.
Santorini, Appellation (PDO Santorini)
These dry, full-bodied white Santorini wines must contain a minimum of 75% Assyrtiko. The remaining percentage comes from Athiri and Aidani. The acidity is evident, and they have the potential for long aging.
The island adds its mineral character to the citrus. Because of the grapes’ reliable attributes, some vintners apply a small amount of barrel fermenting.
Nykteri, Appellation (PDO Santorini)
These dry white wines begin very much like a Santorini. They must contain a minimum of 75% Assyrtiko, with the remaining percentage allowed from the Athiri and Aidani varieties. At one time, they would harvest the grapes at night (nikta) hence the name. Very few do that anymore.
The process of making the wine may take place in either stainless steel tanks or barrels. Then aging takes place in oak barrels for a minimum of 3 months.
Vinsanto, Appellation (PDO Santorini)
Vinsanto is a sweet Santorini wine that was popular in many areas during ancient times, especially the Byzantine period. The Venetians, ruling the trade routes through most of the Mediterranean, named it “Vino di Santo” (Wine from Santorini.)
By law, this wine must be at least 51% Assyrtiko with the remaining percentage from Athiri and Aidani. Also, they allow small amounts of native white varieties grown on the island. Traditionally, they harvest the grapes later than others and let them sun-dry for approximately two weeks.
Wine or Liqueur?
The fermentation must have a minimum of 9% alcohol. The vintners can also make it more like a liqueur. To do that, they add pure-alcohol to increase the amount to at least 15%.
Aging.
Then into oak barrels for aging, a minimum of two years. The finished product has a golden, light orange color and a complex bouquet combining
dried fruits and sweet spice. It is a dessert wine.
There is a local variation they call Mezzo (less sweet.) It is not on Greece’s classification system. Italy’s vin santo, though based on the “Vin de Santorini,” is not the same as the Santorini wine.
Santorini Wineries
Santos Wines
Santos is the island’s largest winery. A cooperative of around 2,500 growers who all toss their grape harvests, (of any size) into the mix. They blend them all, make the wine, and sell it. Each contributor gets a percentage of sales based on his contribution.
This method has some good points. For the small grape grower, they do not have to invest in expensive winemaking machinery or even storage space. Santos does that for them, for a fee.
My “ick” is that some great grapes go in with standard grapes. The result is a lot of good wine instead of a small amount of great wine. Don’t get me wrong; they have good wine.
Location Location Location.
They chose an excellent location for their Santorini wine factory/visitor center. It is less than a mile from the road to Athiniou port. Any tour from a cruise ship, or guests off a ferry, pass right by it to get to Fira. The good news for these guests is that the buses don’t pass by, they pull into the large parking lot.
Memories.
It reminds me of the Napa Valley in the early 80s. The valley had one paved road, one lane in each direction. The ways to the vineyards were small, often dirt or gravel. The vintners themselves were often working the tasting table.
And then there was the one big white building on the hill. Robert Mondavi. And every tour bus in Napa was in their parking lot.
Santos has a good wine and a store offering several local products in addition to wine. They also own most of the domestic tomato industry. They have a lovely terrace for sunsets. If you have the option, stay away between 10 am and 5 pm. when the tour groups are there. But, expect crowds at all times.
Boutari Santorini.
The Boutari Company, dating from 1879, is one of the largest wine producers in Greece. They have been a significant player in the development of modern-day Greece’s wines. Pushing research, development, and protection of rare varieties of indigenous grapes threatened with extinction.
In the late 1980s, they realized the potential for a critical viticultural zone on Santorini. Intending to produce high-quality Santorini wines, they built a winery on the island.
Less of a Mob Scene.
The winery does get buses from some of the high-end cruise lines, but nowhere near the number Santos Wine does. Still, try to avoid stopping between 10 am and 2 pm if you can.
They have a short multi-media show and wine tastings with meze. You must boot tours of the facilities in advance. The winery is just south of Megalochori on the road to Akrotiri.
Gaia Winery
Gaia is another company with wineries on the mainland, in this case, in Nemea. Since their beginning in the 1990s, their wines have won over 100 awards worldwide.
On Santorini, their winery’s location is near the beach adjacent to the airport runway. Why such a place? Here they were able to renovate a tomato factory, dating from the early 1900s.
Their vineyards are on the warm, southwest side of the island.
Best Beach.
If you must go to the beach, I suggest visiting their covered patio. Here you can enjoy a Santorini wine with views of the nearby beach. You leave with a happy smile and no sand in your crevices.
The winery is on the shore road between Kamari and Monolithos.
Other Santorini Wineries.
The majority of the other wineries have family running them. Also, they only have vineyards on Santorini, and they may or may not be exporting their wines. To be safe, try every Santorini wine before leaving.
Santorini Wineries in the Megalochori Area
Arvanitis Antonis Canava
This gem is an authentic and traditional winery. From the moment you enter, you know there has not been much change. There is no stainless steel or trendy visitors area. Here they use chalk to indicate the contents in the barrels
They make their Nychteri (night wine) the old way. They also produce Roze, Brousko, Mezzo, and Vinsanto. Try Lemo-Santo. It is a sweet and sour liquor made with local vinsanto and traditional Santorini lemons.
The winery is in Megalochori.
Gavalas Winery
The current winemaker is the third generation of a family that has been producing Santorini wine since the late 1800s.
A stop here is necessary to taste wines from several indigenous grapes not grown anywhere else. These include the Katsano, Gaidouria, Mavrotragano, and Voudomato grapes, which they grow in small quantities. They also produce wines from the popular Assyrtiko, Athiri, and Aidani grapes.
When you enter the winery, you can feel the love and devotion to winemaking. The current generation continues to try and revive the rare, indigenous grape varieties of Santorini.
Venetsanos Winery
Everything old is new again. The current winery is an update to the original industrial winery the Venetsanos family opened in 1947.
One of the winemaking changes since 1947 is that the island now has electricity. It did not have it at the winery’s opening. Therefore, they used gravity in smart ways to help with the work. Wine production starts at the top and works its way down. Expect stairs if you want to tour the winery.
Wine makes any sunset pretty. Tours are available, as is wine tasting. With its location on the edge of the caldera, the winery has numerous terraces with a view north to Oia.
Similar to Santos Wine, it gets crowds for sunsets. You can purchase wine and meze while enjoying an incredible view. The winery is open year-round. The Sunset Terrace is open May through October.
Santorini Wineries in the Ekso Gonia Area
ArtSpace
The setting for this winery is the family’s 1861 winery, which has had many updates. But, it is not just a winery. ArtSpace is also part wine museum and modern art gallery.
Stroll through the caves and cisterns of the winery, enjoying the art and the wine.
The wines are artisanal, and there is a small tasting area available.
The museum includes exhibitions featuring old tools and machinery for making wine. The winery is east of Pyrgos in the small village of Ekso (Exo)Gonia.
Artemis Karamolegos Winery
Grandfather Artemis, who started making wine in the 1950s, shares his wine knowledge with his grandson. Circa 2004, grandson Artemis invests in vineyards and a facility and tries out his inherited skills and expertise. Since then, they have been successfully fulfilling their goal: produce exceptional local wines with authentic taste.
Using the unique Assyrtiko and other rare and indigenous grape varieties, the current wines have a unique character.
Not resting on their laurels, they are exploring the many particularities of this terroir, finding new wines for the future.
They are one of the largest producers on Santorini. The facility includes a wine tasting area featuring an aging cellar, a beautiful outdoor patio, and a retail store.
In the heart of the winery is the Aroma Avlis Food and Wine restaurant. Here you can sample a wide selection of gastronomic suggestions and pairings. Wine just tastes better when you drink it in the vineyard.
Santorini Wineries in the Episkopi Area
Canava Roussos Winery
This canava has been in operation since 1836, making it the oldest winery of Santorini. Although they have some modern equipment, they follow traditional processing for making Santorini wine from Assyrtiko, Athiri, Aidani, Mandilaria, and Mavrathiro grapes.
Their tasting terrace is open May through October. They also offer lunch and dinner with wine pairings at their café. I recommend reservations.
The winery’s location is on M street in Episkopi, but good luck finding a street sign. On the road from Exo Gonia to Kamari is the Santorini Brewing Company outside Episkopi. Turn right at the brewery and winery is approximately 500 feet on your right.
Estate Argyros
The great-grandchildren of the founder are now managing the winery. The original winery began producing in 1903.
Much of this wineries rootstock is original vines, averaging 70 years old. The vines have not had grafting. Some of the grapevines date back over 200 years.
This seniority makes for some unique boutique wines.
They focus on white wines but have rose and red as well. Tours and tastings are available by reservation. On the road from Exo Gonia to Kamari is the Santorini Brewing Company outside Episkopi. Approximately 500 feet past the brewery on the same street is the entrance to the winery on your right.
Santorini Wineries in the Pyrgos Area
Hatzidakis Winery
In 1996, Haridimos Hatzidakis bought the remains of an old vineyard that has been empty since the 1956 earthquake. He replanted the small area. Also, he takes a small cave and builds a “kanava,” the traditional name for a winery on Santorini.
The vineyard produces two types of organic (biological) wine using Aidani and Assyrtiko grapes. Due to the almost overnight success of the first vintages, the winery has grown in production and distribution.
Unfortunately, Mr. Hatzidakis passed in 2017. His daughter and the incredible team he built, keep the quality of the wines. Also, they add a new wine he began. You can arrange visits by appointment only.
Koutsoyannopoulos Winery & Wine Museum
The winery dates back to 1870 when the Koutsoyannopoulos brothers arrived by sailing boat from the Peloponesse. As everyone on the island had their home-made wine, the brothers needed to find a market elsewhere.
Before 1917, Russia loves their wine. After the Russian revolution, they find new markets in France and Italy. Countries where many of the Russian aristocrats relocated. Coincidence?
Santorini Wine Into the Twentieth Century.
In 1967, electricity came to the island, and this winery is the first to have electric machinery.
Today, the fourth generation, using state of the art equipment, is turning out award-winning wines. Tastings are available. Also, you can arrange grape stomping in advance for groups up to 20. But what to do with all the old equipment?
Wine Museum
Taking more than 100 years of history, adding original artifacts from the wineries past, the family has a unique museum. It is a tribute to the wine industry of Santorini.
Here, you can see tools, storage vessels, and machines. These are not just from this winery. There are articles from other wineries dating back to 1660. The exhibit is in chronological order in a winding labyrinth of storerooms (caves) underground.
A Tasty Ending.
The tour ends in the wineries tasting room. The location is just east of Mesaria, near the airport, and is open year-round.
Domaine Sigalas
This younger winery, dating from 1991, is more an event than a winery visit. Yes, you can do an a la carte tasting of their award-winning wines, and be on your way. But what they are famous for are their wine tasting experiences.
Experiences.
One, lasting approximately two hours, includes a tour of the vineyard. Then a tasting of not three or six of their wines, but ten different labels. A tasting is not a full glass of wine. However, it is a good thing that they also include something to eat. And I don’t mean some crackers or bread.
They match this with seasonal products, which may consist of the island’s famous fava beans, cherry tomatoes, and capers. There are other snacks, such as Cycladic cheeses and Cured Meats. What kicks it over the top is that you are in a hands-on group of only 2-8 guests. It is a very personal experience.
Neither experience is inexpensive. I have yet to talk to anyone who did not feel it was worth every euro spent. You should not plan anything but a nap after either experience.
The winery is located just outside the town of Oia on the road to Ormos. I recommend a car if you have a designated driver or a taxi. Although the walk is less than 2 miles from Oia, the road can get quite a bit of traffic. Also, the hike back to Oia is over a low but constant uphill grade.
Vassaltis Winery.
This winery began operations in 2015, making it the youngest on the island. It was a dream of then 35-year-old Yannis Valambous, to revive this vineyard. His father, purchasing it in the 1980s, had done nothing with the land. With the help of two partners, they are doing just that. The winery is open daily and is on the east side of the island between Fira and Oia.
Keep an Eye Out For:
Canava Chrissou
In 2013, Yiannis Tselepos, a vintner in the Peloponnese region, became partners with the Chryssou family. They have vineyards near Pyrgos and Emporio.
They are currently working to develop higher-quality grapes in the hope of introducing another PDO region. This vintner is a “quality over quantity” producer with limited fields and production under constant watch. Their first few vintages have been receiving scores in the 90s from various wine raters.
Opening Soon.
Visits are currently not possible at the Santorini winery. However, you should look for their wine on local menus or in stores.
Santorini Wine Summary.
So, it appears that Santorini has a lot more to offer than just views of the caldera.
Get out and meet the vintners, see their wineries, and, most importantly, taste their wines.
Santorini reminds me of the Napa Valley from 30+ years ago. Enjoy Santorini’s wine “region” now before it gets too big.
Not all wineries are open year-round. Check the individual wineries for opening times/months and if they require reservations.
Most wineries are open April through October for visits. Go prepared that if you are visiting in June or July, wineries will be very busy. In August, double the craziness.
Wine tastings vary in price and the number of wines they offer.
Toasting.
In Greek, the word for “health” is Eyia – (Yah).
The word for “your” is su – (soo).
And the word for “our” is mas – (mas).
Yasou – (Yah soo) To your health – is for saying cheers to 1 person. Also, a casual hello.
Yamas – (Yah mas) To our health – when saying cheers to more than one person