THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
Your Greek Secret
Did you know there is a secret Greek island in Athen’s backyard? People in Athen’s know about it and so should you. There are several: Poros, Aegina, and Hydra.
All three are an hour or less by ferry from Piraeus. They all have their unique qualities which you should experience for yourself.
Today, I want to share Secret Hydra.
Secret Hydra
Hydra is similar to Catalina or Martha’s Vineyard. A short ferry ride on Friday night and the Athenian’s are at their weekend home.
But Hydra has something going for it that its American counterparts don’t: no cars, golf carts or scooters. The island has a few trucks for public services. Other than that, the noise and danger of vehicles are not there. On this Greek island, you do not spend a good portion of your vacation looking for a parking place.
The thought of having to walk everywhere will put some people off. And secret Hydra will do just fine without these people. The truth is, there are not that many places to walk. Think of Hydra town as a large resort. You walk to the dining room. You walk to the beach.
A majority of the small inns are in the center of town. In ten minutes walk from your hotel you can access the waterfront, bakeries, boutiques, museums and most tavernas in town.
Discover Secret Hydra Beaches
Americans do not go to Hydra for the beaches. The island has them, but they are pebble beaches that get very hot mid-day in the summer. Aqua socks or an old pair of sneakers is high on my recommendation list.
I am not saying you do not visit the beach, go prepared. There is a “beach” on the west side of the harbor. Spilia is a rock platform with some umbrellas, but you can access the water from here. Very popular with drunk 20-somethings jumping off the ledges above.
Anywhere there is a rock outcropping; you may find someone offering their body to Helios (sun god.) There are six I would consider “beaches”: Kamini, Vlychos, Plakes, Molos, Bisti and Agios Nikolaos (St Nick.)
Starting in Hydra town, the first one, Kamini is a casual 15-minute walk (with inclines.) Vlychos is 15 minutes further and Plakes another 15 minutes of walking.
Further Afield
Any beach beyond Plakes you want to take a boat to as the path becomes a suggestion. Molos I have never found a trail. The further from town you go, the fewer services they have to offer. Bisti and Agios Nikolaos are a few chairs and minimal food and beverage from a cooler.
I suggest walking in the morning, before it gets too hot, to one of the first three beaches. Reward yourself with some hydrotherapeía (water therapy.) Listen to the waves splash on the pebbles. Look out at the Aegean blue water or feel the salt water purifying your spirit. Enjoy a leisurely lunch in the local cantina, then take the local water taxi back to town.
There are also boat tours that circumnavigate the island for those wishing to stay near the water.
Take a Hike
I like to “lose myself” exploring the streets of Hydra Town.
There are actual hikes you can take. The longest would be to St Nick beach, which they tell me is 3.5 hours each way with no shade. This hike includes multiple up and down over rock and gravel. (These are goat and donkey paths) I will take their word for it. This part of secret Hydra will remain a secret to me.
There are longer hikes to the east end of the island. They tell me they are seven hours each way. You will also need to bring your water (lots) food and toilet paper. There are no services or facilities. The reward is a tiny, non-descript lighthouse and a few small churches along the way. And then the hike back. You can see the tower from a round-the-island boat trip.
Another option is to hire a private water taxi to Zourva Monastery and walk back from there. The boat doesn’t take you to the monastery. It drops you on the small dock 645 steps BELOW the monastery. I’ll be in a taverna back in town waiting to hear all about it.
Scenic Hikes
Prophet Elias Monastery – is a favorite hike that takes approximately two and a half hours each way. That’s for people in good health as it is uphill. At the end are a monastery and small nearby convent. You do the climb for the views, not the buildings. However, say hello to the monks and the 2-3 nuns while you are there.
The hike to the monastery and the walk along the coast as far as Plakas are not hard. Take them at your own pace and they do not resemble an episode of survival.
Hidden Treasures
Secret Hydra has a few treasures right in front of your nose. On the waterfront is the Melina Mercouri Hall. Especially in the summer, it hosts exhibits and art collection.
Nearby, is the Historical Archive – Museum of Hydra. Its collection shows Hydra’s cultural and maritime heritage.
Under the clocktower, inside the courtyard of the Monastery of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is an Ecclesiastical Museum. All of these museums are small but have interesting collections (quality over quantity.)
The other secret Hydra museum requires a little climbing. Uphill from the waterfront and to the right is the Kountouriotis Mansion Museum.
Lazaros Koundouriotis was a ship owner who was supplying ships and finances to the Greek War of Independence. His former mansion, dating from 1780, has original interiors, paintings by Greek artists, furnishings and other artworks. It is an excellent look into life in the old days, and the views are lovely as well.
Hydra Cuisine.
It is no secret Hydra has some great food. The restaurants and tavernas are cooking for the locals and weekending Athenians, not for tourists. Sure, on the waterfront, you can find the menus in seven languages and barkers trying to mislead tourists.
But just off the harbor, a gastronomic paradise awaits. You have mama cooking in the kitchen, and some places aren’t much bigger than a kitchen. At the other end, you have young chefs trying modern takes on old recipes. There is something for everyone.
Seafood is king here as they catch it fresh in the morning. Water, well lack of it, has always been a significant reason Hydra doesn’t expand.
There are no cows, gardens are for personal use, and I have yet to see a local grape leaf. However, the Peloponnese is a 20-minute boat ride away. Famous for its cattle, dairy, fruits, vegetables, and wines it is happy to share with its neighbor.
Note – Do not even consider dinner until after a Hydra sunset with wine and meze.
Read more about Hydra Cuisine by clicking on the orange link.
Other Secrets
Avoid the waterfront between 11:00 am and 2:00 pm. This period is when the three islands in one-day tourist boats hit. Hundreds of tourists, with no idea which way to go, stream off into the waterfront area. They have 90 minutes to “see the island.”
There is not much you can do in such a short time. Any hike takes longer than that. A boat to a beach is risky if you can find one departing mid-day. Some wander the back streets or into a museum if they knew about them ahead of time. All the others mill about the tourist shops or drink in the tourist cafes on the waterfront. Ninety minutes later, they are sailing to another island.
If you can visit on weekdays, you avoid the weekend crowds. Avoid any of the Greek islands in July and August.
If you are doing more than seven days in Greece, this is a great place to visit mid-vacation and recharge.
Now that you know about secret Hydra, why are you waiting?
Please “Leave a Reply” below to this: Would 24 hours on Hydra help you to recharge? Why?
“See Europe” Continued on Page T3 “Taste Bordeaux” Continued on T4