Table of Contents
LOCAL PRODUCTS.
CRETAN SPECIALTIES
BEVERAGES
Wines of Crete. Greek Beer. Greek Spirits.
Did you ever eat a UNESCO World Heritage site?
WHAT?
Well, maybe not a heritage site, but the Cretan diet is part of the Mediterranian Diet. It has a listing by UNESCO on their Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
So the Cretans must be doing something right. Right?
Well, they have been practicing thousands of years to perfect their diet. What better reason do you need to taste Crete?
Starting with the Minoans pre 3,000 B.C., we know from their artwork that they were farmers and had cattle. Excavating has found ancient seeds and grain residue in unearthed containers.
The containers also tell us they were producing wine and olive oil thousands of years ago.
Their images of running towards, then jumping over bulls may indicate the wine had a high alcohol content. Taste Crete wine and decide for yourself.
With the Venetians, came all things Venice (Italian) which the local cuisine merged with or influenced. Not everything Italian is what it appears to be.
Also, the products/ingredients available would direct the preparation of the recipes.
Then there is the vast body of water surrounding the island. The Mediterranian supplies fresh seafood and fish daily from numerous ports.
Taste Crete Through Local Products.
Let’s start with some letters. PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) products.
PDO products come from a specific area. They have characteristics due to that particular geoclimatic environment, and production takes place in that region.
PGI products also come from a specified area. However, only one of its characteristic needs to be from, and one part of the production must take place in the region.
Olive Oil
The Cretans take olive oil very seriously. There are more than 35 million olive trees on the island, and many families have their own. There are at least ten PDO olive oils on the island and one PGI. The Crete olive oil is extracted directly from the olive, without any further processing. The Cretan olive oil is low in acidity and has unique characteristics. Its classification is extra virgin olive oil. Do not be surprised if after making friends with a local; they offer you some of their homemade olive oil. Either way, make sure to taste Crete olive oil.
Olives
Olive trees can live more than 2,000 years, although the average life span is “only” 500 years. They do not start producing edible fruit until they are 5-6 years old. Each year they produce more fruit. A mature olive tree will provide around 40 pounds of olives each year. These olives will make about five gallons of olive oil. But they do not use olives just for liquid gold; they are a significant food item as well.
What is the difference between green olives and black olives? A few weeks. They pick the green ones before they are ripe. Other than that, they are the same olive. The green ones are brined longer as they have more of a bitter taste than the black. However, all olives need brining* before you can eat them.
Why eat olives? Well, they contain antioxidants, good fat, fiber, and vitamin E. Also, they have polyphenols which help memory. (Make a note of this.) Oleic acids that keep skin soft and healthy. And the oil contains oleocanthal, which is a natural anti-inflammatory. Did you know a few olives before lunch or dinner will send the brain messages of fullness and satisfaction?
*The Throumba Abadias of Rethymno Crete is a PDO product. This olive loses its bitter taste before harvest. Therefore it has a sweetish flavor without additional processing. Another taste Crete can offer.
Local Cheese
The Cretans take their cheese very seriously, and every meal includes some cheese. They are some of the largest consumers of cheese in the world.
PDO cheeses include:
Graviera Kritis – The Greek version of gruyere. It is a hard cheese, pale-yellow in color, and comes from sheep or goat’s milk.
Xinomizithra Kritis – is a tangy, yet sweet soft cheese with a grainy to a creamy texture. It is very popular with locals. They make this whey cheese from sheep or goat milk or both, with a minimum fat content of 45%.
Pichtogalo Chanion – translates literally as “thick milk of Chania.” Guess where they make it? It is a soft, spreadable cheese made with milk from a goat, sheep, or a mixture of both. The minimum fat content is 50%.
Xygalo Sitias – is a product of the Sitia region in Eastern Crete. They use sheep, goat, or a mixture of milk, to make this creamy, rich cheese. The taste is slightly sour but with a fresh note. The fat content is between 35-45%, and the salt content can reach up to 1.5%.
Honey
Due to the ecosystem of the island, the bees collect pollen from both the local pine trees and thyme plants. It creates a unique honey category. The mellow flavors of pine combine with the aromatic thyme. Try it alone or over local yogurt. This is a taste Crete holds a monopoly on.
P.D.O. Pine thyme honey of Crete
Rusk
First, what is a rusk? A rusk is a hard, dry cracker or a twice-baked bread. In Greece, they usually make them from barley or chickpea flour. Before eating them, they soften them with wine, oil, or the juice from diced tomato. I call them a cross between a bagel and a crouton. I cannot tell a huge difference in ones from the east versus the west. They have a PGI status as Cretan Rusks.
Other Products
Some would argue (the growers) that all products from Crete are PDO products. However, the European Union organization, which awards this status, does not agree. Regardless of rank, Crete has excellent products that also influence their diet.
Fruit.
Figs are fresh from June until September. If you have never had a fig picked fresh off a tree, you have no idea what you are missing. NO, Newton cookies are not a good example.
Ancient Fruits. From pictures, remains, and stories from ancient times, we know that many fruits were growing on Crete before 100 B.C. In addition to fig, there were strawberry trees, (not the same as our strawberry vines) quince, pomegranate, wild pear, peach, apples, mulberries, and persimmons. Some believe that persimmons were the lotos fruit that attracted Odysseus and his men.
By 100 A.D. there were loquats, apricots, and citrus trees. Most fruits are eaten raw during their season. Some, like tree strawberries and quince, are made into jam-like preserves called spoon sweets.
Vegetables
Olives, wild mushrooms (Amanites or Manites) mountain mushrooms, (Hadiarofouskes,) tomatoes, beans, zucchini (courgette) and more than thirty kinds of wild greens you will find in restaurants. There are many more that they keep to themselves.
Greens are (were) seasonal, so it depends on when you visit as to what is available. However, many are appearing sooner than the season and lasting later, which points towards cultivating or over-harvesting. Stamnagathi – is a favorite Cretan side of spiny chickory with dark green, crunchy, leaves. They toss them in olive oil and some sea salt with a squeeze of fresh lemon. They also use them in savory Greek pies.
Spices
The island is home to more than 3,600 species and subspecies of plants. It is not unusual to see sage, oregano, thyme, or marjoram growing wild along the side of the road. Mint, cumin, and fennel are also famous in Cretan dishes.
Cretan Specialties.
Meze (appetizers)
- Dakos (sometimes spelled ntákos) – starts with a PGI Cretan rusk. They drizzle olive oil, finely diced tomatoes and oregano over it. Some people then add feta while others add a similar local cheese. Some also add artichokes or beans. Everyone’s recipe is the BEST.
- Apaki – cured pork is a specialty of Crete. Before smoking, they season lean pork in vinegar. Afterward, they coat it with additional herbs and spices. The combinations are endless. Many of the sausages from the Chania and Rethymno area will have a vinegar signature.
- Pies – Not the fruit-filled ones you are thinking of, but small pieces of dough with unusual fillings. These include cheeses, meats, spices, and combinations of all of the above.
- Bourekia is a pie with thin layers of puff pastry with a filling. Savory ones for meze may have meat, cheese, and vegetables.
- Chaniotiko bouréki is zucchini, potatoes, and local myzíthra cheese. It is a specialty of Chania. Sweet ones (for dessert) may include a soft cheese with cinnamon or other spices.
- Kalitsounia has a cheese or herb filling. They fry it before serving. (They can be sweet for dessert.)
- Green pie is with a mixture of cooked wild greens. A variation of the spanikopita (spinach) pie. They may or may not have cheese as well.
- Marathópita is like a sauteed crepe or pita with fresh fennel folded into the dough before sauteing. They may add spinach, sorrel, and sweet onion.
Salad
- Greek Salad is like saying house salad. There is no one recipe everyone agrees as THE one. Everyone has the BEST recipe for Greek salad. Most salads will have a ripe tomato, cucumber, green peppers, and olives (think local and fresh) in an oil and vinegar dressing. On top of this, by default, is often feta cheese. In Crete, they will usually substitute a local soft cheese.
- Yogurt Salad – For those who like yogurt and vegetables, this is an excellent substitution for the Greek salad. They start with the yogurt and mix it with local olive oil until it is the consistency of Tzatziki. They also add diced cucumber, radish, pickles, and garlic to this “dressing.” They garnish a dollop of this dressing with slices of radish, cucumber, olives, (fresh local vegetables), and slices of hard-boiled egg.
Meats
- Lamb is the most popular meat on the island, followed by the goat. Because the land is at a premium, even on a large island, they raise smaller animals that can graze in the mountains.
- Antikristo is a traditional form of roasting lamb and sometimes goat meat. Passing down from the shepherds, it involves cutting the lamb into quarters, placing them on spits. Then setting them over the flame and slowly roasting them. There are many ways to prepare the lamb, including baking, sauteeing, as a fricassee or stew with artichokes.
- Tsigariastó, slow cooking in olive oil is a local dish. It may be with lamb or goat. They serve it with lemon.
- Boiling goat and serving it with macaroni is a favorite dish. Gamopilafo is boiled meat or meats served with rice cooked in the meats broth. They also add butter and lemon. What’s not to like?
- Beef exists on Crete, but it is not visible except at restaurants and hotels catering to tourists. (Imported, frozen.) And we do not go to those places. There is spicy beef, which is cubes sauteed with onions and peppers. Other dishes, using slow cooking methods with vegetables are also around, but they are not the reason you come to Crete.
- Pork – is the most popular white meat. You will find it in souvlaki, baked in wine, smoked with tomatoes, or grilled, to name a few. Slow-cooked with celery in a lemon sauce is also delicious.
- Chicken and rabbit are the next most popular white meats on the island. They are usually cooked in wine or baked with vegetables.
Seafood
- Crustaceans and mollusks – Snails are very popular in Crete. They harvest several varieties of snail depending on the season. These go into casseroles, with fresh vegetables, such as tomato, onion, artichokes, greens, and also in soups. One of the favorite preparations is Chochlioi Boubourist and involves sauteing the snails in oil with a splash of vinegar and rosemary.
- The rest of the seafood dishes you will find are not exclusive to Crete. There is the fish, octopus, (the usual suspects) that are often fried or grilled. Due to over-fishing (or greed,) seafood is slightly pricy considering it does not travel far. One local preparation is Cuttlefish with fennel. It also includes olives. This dish is most popular around Easter when the fennel is fresh.
Pasta
Pasta appears in Greek mythology long before the Italians began conquering. However, it was not the main staple of their diet, and the primary use was as a dish at funerals. The name is makaria. Taste Crete makaria and cheese.
In Ancient Greece, (1000 B.C.) Lagana was a dough from flour and water, which they cut into strips. Upon its arrival in the Greek colonies around the 8th century B.C. it took on the Latin name laganum.
As the Greeks were expanding westward, they would take forms of dried pasta as provisions. Their first colonies were along the southern tip of what is today Italy.
The popularity of pasta came back to Crete with the Venetians. We know that pasta was in Italy hundreds of years before Mr. Polo set sail.
- Chondros (called trachanas in other parts of Greece,) is cracked wheat they soak in soured milk. They make a paste of this, which they spread out on sheets and sun-dry for 2-3 days. They then sift the dry mixture into grain size pieces for storing. This pasta goes into soup with vegetables or meats. It can also replace rice in meatballs or stuffed grape leaves.
- Sioufichta is the Cretan ziti. They toss it with just about any kind of vegetable and sauce.
- Avgochylos is a small flat ribbon of pasta similar to tagliatelle. Meats and sauces are popular with this noodle.
Sauces
- Staka – is almost a cheese sauce where they boil the goat/sheep milk to get a crust. Then they add salt and flour while stirring. Staka is nearly a cream sauce. The last step is to add cream and then let it thicken. They put it on eggs, potatoes, over the meat, pasta, and cheese pies. (think country gravy in the south.) Staka only has 600 calories, per bite. Try it, then take a hike.
- Stakovoutiro – is a traditional butter, not a sauce. But it adds flavors like a sauce. It is butter they make from goat’s and sheep’s milk. It is flavorful, fragrant, and has a high-fat content. A dollop will accent any dish. Very popular with gamapilofo (rice pilaf.)
Desserts
Sweet pies include:
- Sfakiani is a favorite local pie, (from the village of Sfakia.) It is more a fried pita with cheese in the middle.
- Sarikopita (turban) cheese pie is similar to Sfakiani with a different dough. They drizzle local honey over both of them.
- Cretan Molasses Pie – is more like a cake. After baking it in the oven, it, like so many desserts in Greece, they drizzle local honey on top.
- Portokalopita is a flaky phyllo-dough crust with a yummy orange custard filling. They call it a cake. Or is it pie? It is a taste Crete does best.
Xerotigana is strips of dough that they fry, then cover with honey and nuts.
Baked goods do not differ dramatically from baked goods elsewhere in Greece. You can find a great bougatza in Crete, but no single pastry says, Crete. Look for the traditional Cretan bakeries. You can still stumble across them.
To Market, To Market
Unfortunately, the Heraklion Central Market is nothing like it used to be. Homemakers and chefs now go to shops or other street markets further out to do their shopping. There are more souvenir shops than Cretan produce these days. Ask locals when and where the street markets take place. They are in a different location each day of the week.
In Chania, there is a great covered market. The building, dating from 1913, has vendors selling meats, fish, and produce. There are also some tasty but straightforward small restaurants. Avoid it if there is a cruise ship in the harbor. Try to get there before 9:00 am on other days to see more of the locals. Closed on Sunday but open in the evening a few days of the week.
Chania also has daily street markets. Enquire locally for days and locations. Check out the one at Odos Minoos. It should be on Saturday and will give you a real look at local life.
To read more about Greek Cuisine.
Beverages
Remember that Crete has a large number of plants? Many of these are herbs that they use for tea. For thousands of years, chamomile, mint, sage and verbena tea have been household cures.
Today, there is a super tea called Greek Mountain Tea, which is a blend of ironwort and Tsai tou Vounou. Studies show early signs that it may slow down Alzheimer’s as well as many other benefits. On Crete, it goes by the name of Malotira Tea.
Taste Crete Spirits
Just about everyone has heard of Ouzo, a liqueur with anise flavoring. You can find it in Crete. However, the locals drink Raki. Similar to ouzo, they distill if from the by-products of winemaking. There is no anise (which is confusing as raki in Turkey, is more like ouzo). It is similar to Italian Grappa. A bright, clean liquor that means you will not feel as bad the next day, within moderation.
On Crete, they serve it in chilled carafes with tiny shot glasses. You drink it in one gulp. The best is homemade.
Taste Crete Beer
Breweries that were Greek-owned and operated did a disappearing act when beer conglomerates from northern Europe and other places went on a buying spree in the 1960s.
A little behind other countries, Greece began micro-brewing in the late 1990s. By the early 2000s, Crete had its first local brewery. (You can still get the stuff from northern Europe, but you’re not in Amsterdam.) Taste Crete beer.
Today there are breweries in Heraklion, Chania, and Rethymno. Tavernas are brewing homemade craft beers. Crete is an excellent place for beer lovers.
Taste Cretan Wine
As Crete is a Greek wine region with 4,000 years of history, it is going to take more than a few lines.
Therefore, it has its page. Click the orange link to learn all about Cretan Wine.
Taste Crete Summary.
Are these all the traditional foods of Crete? Hardly! But these will keep you busy for a few days and give you an insight into the local cuisine.
So many people try to visit Crete for one or two days and leave with the wrong impression. It is too big to see in less than four days, and that would be rushing it. Why not plan to spend at least a week and see, experience, and taste Crete.