Table of Contents:
The Wines of Today.
Greek Take Away.
Drink like a Greek.
Taste Greek Beers. Greek Cuisine Taste Greek Spirits
The newest, oldest Wine Country in Europe is Greece.
Greek Mythology has Greece receiving the gift of viticulture around 3000 BC.
However, going back to around 12000 BC. The Mycenaeans are spreading westward. They find grapes and start making wine. Why not? They have been doing it back home for hundreds of years.
Between 800 – 750 BC, The Greeks start a new push westward. This time, they land on the southern tip of the mainland of what is now Italy and the island of Sicily.
During the Rome Republic (around 509 BC.) Rome makes wine-producing illegal in the provinces. This move gives them a monopoly on most of the world’s wine production. This power move does not stop the Greeks from learning and improving the winemaking.
6th century BC. Greeks in the area of Gaul (today France) began cultivating new vines.
Wine – It is from the Greeks.
The Newer Greek Wines.
The Phylloxera epidemic finally reached northern Greece in 1898. It does immense damage to Macedonia and the area around Thessaloniki. It then begins to spread southward. Fortunately, its movement is slow. It finally reaches the Peloponnese in the 1960s and Crete a decade later. Due to advancements in treatment, it is not as devastating as it is in France.
Greek Wines Today.
There are four growing regions in Greece, based on terrain and climate.
North.
In the North, you have the regions of Epirus, Macedonia, and Thrace. The moisture comes in from both the Ionian and Aegean Seas makes it a wet climate. To the north, the Alps are keeping the moisture in place. The old white grapes in this region are Malagousia and Assyrtiko. The “new” varieties being Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The predominant old red is the Xinomavro. Newer red grapes include Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah.
Central.
The central region is the remaining part of the Greek mainland that grows grapes. In the northern part of the central area, you have arid conditions. (Think a climate similar to California’s Napa Valley). Here, the focus is on reds. The old red grapes being Xinomavro, Krasato, and Stavroto. The youngsters being Merlot, Cabernet, and Syrah. Besides comparisons to the Napa reds, these wines have similarities to France’s southern Rhone Valley.
Central – South.
Still in the Central region, but further south towards Athens, you have a warmer and drier climate. Although they grow Xinomavro (red) the area is best known for whites similar to Chablis and White Burgundy. The old white grape is the Savatiano. A vine that strikes fear in people who only know its past. The grape behind cheap white wine and Retsina, a wine people either love or hate. But like so many things old in Greece, there’s a new appreciation for Savatiano.
It is this new production with the Savatiano grape that is producing wines similar to Chablis and White Burgundy. Even Retsina is getting a good name for itself these days. Although not a fan, I have tasted some of the newer ones recently and they were not altogether unpleasant. Still not a favorite, but I no longer look for the skull and cross-bones on the label.
Southern.
Southern Greece is predominantly the Peloponnese and the island of Crete. Here, there is a hot, Mediterranean climate. However, the wines of Crete are different from the Peloponnese due to the volcanic soil on Crete.
In the Peloponnese, you will find more white wines. Old grapes include Moschofilero, Roditis, Malvasia, and some Assyrtiko. Newer white grapes include Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer.
There are a few notable reds. The old Agiorgitiko and Mavrodaphne grapes and the newer Cabernets.
On Crete, you have outstanding whites and reds. Whites include Vidiano, Vilana, Thrapsathiri, and Dafni. Reds include Kotsifali, Liatiko, and Mandilaria.
The Islands.
The last wine region is all the other Aegean Islands besides Crete. Limnos, Samos, and Santorini are very popular for their wines. The wines of Santorini are unique due to the volcanic soil and its effect on the taste of the grapes. White grapes include Assyrtiko, Aidani, and Athiri and they are the leading wines of the island. You can also find reds made with Mandalieria and Mavrotragano grapes. But the king of the island is the white Assyrtiko.
Many believe that Samos is the original home of the Muscat Blanc grape. They offer several varieties of it from sweet to dry.
On Limnos, the most famous wine is Limnio. (Coincidence?) A red wine that indeed dates from Greece’s golden age. (350 BC.).
In short.
The beautiful thing about Greek wines is that they are so simple. To clarify, I mean this in a very complimentary way. The uncomplexity of the wine is fantastic because Greek food is so darn simple. Indeed, it is a marriage by the gods where food and wine share equally in the relationship.
So, What to Take Away?
Wine is as much a “part” of Greece as the Acropolis.
Greece has come a long way from being the world leader in wine production. Today, there are only 70+ varieties of grapes growing in Greece. Of these, only about half are descendants of the ancient vines. Many of the ancient ones lost during the epidemic. Of these, several they only grow in tiny batches.
Surprisingly, there are over 180 wineries (on the register) in Greece.
Another key point, most of the world does not know about the wine renaissance in Greece, yet. That means prices have not gone through the roof on some of the best.
How do I know which Greek wines to order? You don’t.
In general, I go with the house (local) wine which pairs well with the local food.
Surprisingly, the house wine usually goes with all courses.
That Downhome Touch.
Surprisingly, many tavernas offer their house wines. That is to say, wines that include a little or all of the grapes they grew. They serve them in carafes or metal pitchers. (Which I call big measuring cups.) Will these house vintages win awards? Probably not. Do they pair perfectly with this specific restaurant’s menu? Absolutely. The house specialty and the house wine. In short, I have never left a Taverna unhappy.
In general, the higher-end restaurants and bars tend to offer more Greek wines by the bottle or glass. (Note, wine always tastes better when you share a bottle.)
Equally important, in Athens, you can find wines from all over the country. But I recommend drinking something that went into the cask closer to where you are sitting. The local wines go better with the local foods.
Toasting.
In Greek, the word for “health” is Eyia – (Yah).
The word for “your” is su – (soo).
And the word for “our” is mas – (mas).
Yasou – (Yah soo) To your health – when saying cheers to 1 person. Also a casual hello.
Yamas – (Yah mas) To our health – when saying cheers to more than one person
Greek Wine Regions
Each region has unique wines you should try.