Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
SHOULD SEE HERAKLION.
OUTSIDE HERAKLION.
Crete is the largest Greek Island. It is the fifth-largest Island in the Mediterranean. The Island stretches 160 miles from east to west, 37 miles from north to south at its widest point. It covers more than 3200 square miles.
It is also the most populated Greek island with over 620,000 people. Almost 30% of the inhabitants live in and around the capital city of Heraklion.
Through the middle of the Island, separating North from South are a series of mountains. These mountains create valleys and gorges. They also make rivers and lakes for the rain the Island receives.
If You Don’t Like The Weather.
These mountains also create two climate zones. The north and west side is more that of the Mediterranian, with mild winters and high moisture (humidity.)
The south coast, just 700 miles off the African coast, receives more sunshine and heat, similar to the African climate. These two climates allow for some agricultural production year-round.
In 2002, they discovered a human-like footprint (fossil), possibly dating to 5,600,000 years ago.
Get It In Writing.
A written record of the history only goes back to around the 18th century B.C. At this time, the Island was in contact with cities along the Syrian coast as well as Egypt.
They found the remains of humans, which they put through D.N.A. testing. From the results, they appear to be descendants of people coming from the mainland of Europe around 7000 B.C.
Who Are the Minoans?
The Minoan civilization covers the years from c. 2700 to c. 1450 B. C. It began during the Copper Age. This period,(3500 to 2300 B.C.,) is when farmers lay down their stone tools and start using metal-based ones.
At its peak, it was firmly in the Bronze age (3000 – 1200 B.C.,) and they have numerous artifacts supporting this.
Around 1400 B.C., the Minoan began a slow, steady decline. By 1100 B.C. they are part of the Mycenaean civilization from the mainland of Greece.
I don’t know why they didn’t take photos with their phones or blog more in those days?? Then we would have more information.
What’s In a Name?
The name Minoan did not come into reality until 1900, when a British archaeologist, Sir Arthur Evans began excavating a site on the Island called Knossos.
Side Note: Sir Arthur did not discover Knossos. The rediscovery was by Minos Kalokairinos in 1878. Between this time and the expulsion of the Ottomans by 1900, Sir Arthur purchases parts of the site. The purchases are somewhat questionable transactions.
He was not an archeologist. Although he studied Ancient History in college, he was a journalist. Maybe had he been an archeologist, he would not have torn into the site with such reckless abandon. Many believe he destroys or loses great clues and artifacts in a rush to “make the news.”
He realizes that the language and buildings are different than those at Mycenae on the Peloponesse. Sir Arthur declares there is another civilization present here. He names it after the mythological King Minos. Why? Because the palace had an almost labyrinth-like floor plan. And mythical King Minos had a labyrinth. There’s science for you.
Crete had a highly developed, intelligent civilization under these people, whoever they were. The oldest samples of Greek writing, Linear A, (2500 to 1450 B.C.,) comes from the excavations at Knossos. This language was predominantly for the palace and religious documents.
Linear B
They discover a similar but different Mycenean language following this, and they name it Linear B. Many believe it dates to 1425–1375 B.C. They managed to decipher some of the linear B code in 1950. Unfortunately, it does not crack the Linear A code. If/when that happens, we may understand much more of this ancient civilization.
The Mycenaeans (1420 B.C.)
The Mycenaeans arrive from mainland Greece and inhabit the land. But the Mycenaeans are already in decline. They find very little evidence about them on Crete. It may be from environmental or climate change, or possibly attack from other groups. The population declines, and the Island of Crete, along with all of Greece, slips into the Greek Dark Ages. (1100 to 9th century B.C.)
They know very little about this period. Art and writing cease, or revert to simpler forms. The enormous power-cities seem to have imploded upon themselves, unable to support their own. Many signs point to a dramatic drop in the population. No longer able to finance big cities and armies, smaller city-states are in place by the end of this period.
Archaic Period, (800 – to 480 B.C.)
Populations begin to grow, and significant developments in Greek economics, politics, international relations, (and when those fail warfare) take place. On Crete, there is a comprehensive peace between the city-states, and no outside forces pose a threat.
Next comes the Classical period (510 to 323 B.C.)
This period is an artistic time, the Golden Age of Greece. Architecture, sculpture, theater, literature, scientific thought, and philosophy all bloom and thrive.
The death of Alexander the Great is considered the end of this period. With him out of the way, an ugly land grab begins amongst his generals.
Alexander’s generals quickly chop up Alexander’s Empire for themselves. These new mini-empires cover large sections of Europe, North Africa, and Western Asia. The generals bring the advancements Greece (Hellas) has and incorporate them with what is good locally. It is the Hellenistic period.
On Crete, the city-states began to collapse due to infighting among the leaders, while fighting drawn-out wars with other city-states. (Two battlefronts.) Gortyn, Kydonia (Chania), Knossos, Lyttos, and Polyrrhenia all get into the act.
While they are fighting on land, they leave themselves exposed by sea: Macedonia attacks from the north, Rhodes from the east. Alexander’s ex-general Ptolemy I Soter attacks from his new possession, Egypt to the south.
The Macedonian king Philip V manages to land and establish a stronghold that will dominate the other groups on Crete. For the next 200 years, the power struggle will switch between factions. Then, in 71 B.C., the next superpower arrives.
After a bloody three-year campaign, Rome conquers Crete, making it a province and Gortyn, on the south shore, the capital. Things remain, for the most part, calm under Roman rule until 330 A.D. when Constantine I splits the Roman empire.
Not So Ancient, Byzantine Crete.
While the Romans are fighting amongst themselves (sound familiar?), Crete is on its own. In 365, a devastating earthquake, with a magnitude 8.0 or higher, hits. It destroys every town on the Island and raises the ground 33 feet. Another quake follows in 415, Leaving the Island weak. The attacks come from the Vandals (Germanic) in 467, the Slavs in 623, and several by the Arabs between 654 and 705 A.D.
The Arabs
In 732 A.D., the Emperor puts Crete under the watchful eye of Constantinople instead of Rome. Things calm down with the new military presence for a short time.
In 820, the Arabs capture Crete and rename it the Emirate of Crete. They establish a fortified city on the north shore, which is present-day Heraklion. The Byzantines launch a counter-attack and, by 843, regain a majority of the Island. Campaigns go back and forth until 961 A.D. when the Byzantine Empire restores their power of the Island.
Byzantine, Take-Two.
All goes well for the next 250 years. Having Crete in the fold again provides a stronghold against attacks from the south and east. It also provides a naval presence to ward off the pirates in the area. Unfortunately, trouble came from the north in 1202.
The Fourth Crusade.
The forces of the Pope, mistake(?) Constantinople as Jerusalem and sack it in 1204. A landrush begins to split up the spoils of the Byzantine Empire. Crete goes to a noble who sells it to the Republic of Venice. Before Venice can take control, the Republic of Genoa swoops in and takes possession. It will take Venice eight years to secure their colony.
Venetian Rule.
The Venetians remain on Crete for more than four centuries. During this time, the Island experiences a Renaissance thanks to Venice’s wealth. The Post-Byzantine Art period would produce some of the most significant work. A subset of this art period is the Cretan School of icon painting. The Renaissance will also present the painter El Greco and the writer/philosopher Nicholas Kalliakis.
The Venetians, create an impressive collection of fortresses and defenses across the Island. Their city of Candia (Heraklion) is one of the best fortified in the Eastern Mediterranean. The three principal forts are Gramvousa, at the western tip of Crete. Moving east is Fortezza (Rethymnon) before reaching Candia. On the east end is Spinalonga, and a smaller defense, Kazarma fortress at Sitia.
In 1492, Jews fleeing from the Spanish Inquisition, came to several places in Greece, including Crete. Unfortunately, within 100 years, the Roman Inquisition reaches as far as Crete. Jews and sometimes Greek Orthodox followers had to pay high taxes. Luckily, it did not become as bloodthirsty as the Spanish.
The Ottomans.
Venice loses Crete in 1669 after the Ottoman siege of Candia. Although the Venetians try several times to overthrow the Ottomans, they fail. It was effortless for the Ottomans to defend the Island, using Venetian fortifications.
Greek War of Independence
The Peloponesse of Greece found itself at war in 1821, attempting to push the Ottomans out of their country. Separate uprisings soon followed in Crete, Central Greece, and Macedonia. Crete’s isolation from other Greek armies did not help. The Ottomans call on Egypt for additional forces, and soon they dominate Crete.
When Greece became an independent, sovereign state in 1830, Crete is not part of it. Worse, for their help in suppressing Crete, Egypt takes control of Crete from the Ottomans.
The Convention of London (1840) gave control of Crete back to the Ottomans. This move is an attempt to stabilize the Ottoman Empire, which was faltering. The Cretans rise up three different times after this, the longest and strongest beginning in 1866 and lasting three years. Unfortunately, the Ottomans held onto the fortified Chania, Rethymno, Irakleio (Heraklion), and Agios Nikolaos.
Enough is Enough.
The Cretans continue to riot on and off until 1897. Finally, Great Britain, France, Italy, and Russia sent in troops to maintain order. Continued rioting leads to a union with Greece in 1908. The International World will not recognize it for another five years.
World War II
Starting on the morning of May 20th, 1941, Nazi Germany begins an airborne invasion over Crete. Civilians support the Greek and other Allied forces, in defending the Island. At the end of the first day, the Germans have massive casualties. It is looking like the Allied troops would block the invasion.
Unfortunately, the next day, the Germans did everything right. By afternoon, they take control of an airfield on the western end of the Island. By doing this, they could land new forces. Within ten days, the Battle of Crete was over.
Due to the resistance from the civilian population, the Germans murdered civilians at random. The Germans would remain on Crete until May of 1945.
Crete Today
Tourism is the number one industry today. Agriculture follows it. The beaches along the north and east end are popular with charter groups from Europe. Holiday houses in these areas are usually full in the summer.
Architectural sites from Byzantine and Venetian times attract sightseers. Then there is Crete’s natural beauty and the ancient Minoan sites of Knossos, Malia, Petras, and Phaistos.
What is in Crete for me?
See & Hear.
If you are feeling adventurous, hike a gorge, or climb a mountain. The natural beauty, from the mountains to the prairie, to the ocean is varied and dramatic. Find a local taverna in a village where locals are playing traditional music.
Taste & Smell.
Stroll the back streets of any of the Island’s towns, or the smaller villages. Find a bakery with fresh goods.
Cretan wine is famous worldwide. The Island produces all of its fruits and vegetables, picking them when they are ripe. It is a paradise for the taste buds.
Feel.
Walking through a village in the hills close to sunset, I meet locals. They ask me if I have a place to stay the night? They are not selling a bed at a hotel but offering a room in their home. Where does that still happen?
Sitting having a glass of homemade wine (because you already have a place to sleep that night. And they A.R.E. going to give you hospitality) and trying to converse with your awful Greek. There may be better ways to end your day, but this one doesn’t suck.
SHOULD SEE SITES
Heraklion (Iraklio)
The capital of Crete is also its largest commercial harbor.
Guests are always slandering Heraklion in the comment cards, saying it is nothing but an industrial dock. Well, if you never leave the pier area, then yes, I guess it is. Just like Barcelona, Rio, Hong Kong, Sydney, Los Angeles, or Miami harbor, it is NOT the reason you visit Crete.
I do not understand cruise guests who don’t do a little homework before leaving home. And then do not try to squeeze in as much as possible when they arrive in a port. I always ask guests what did you do today? When I get “We were drinking in a pub,” or “spent the whole day shopping,” I am speechless.
Heraklion even has things to see IN the harbor. Much of the old boat basin houses the remains of a Venetian fortress.
The Koules Fortress (or Italian Castello a Mare, Fort on the Sea.)
The current fortress, dating from 1540 A.D., sits upon the remains of former fortifications. These may date back to the Arabians in the 9th century. The walls provide a fantastic walk and view of the city.
A maritime museum located within the fortress gives a comprehensive history of Crete’s sea history, specifically in the Heraklion area.
The walk from the cruise ship pier area is around 30 minutes to the fortress.
Along the way are some fun sites to check out.
Neoria (Arsenal)
Opposite the harbor by the fountain, you will see seven arches along the sidewalk. These are remains of the Venetian shipyards. These “arsenals” were where the Venetians would house, construct, and repair their ships.
Adjacent to the ruins on the left is the Water Tank of Zane. This 20,000 barrels (31 gallons to a barrel) reservoir collects rainwater and water from other sources.
On the west side (right) of the arsenals are the ruins of the Venetian Salt Warehouses. From here, you can see the four vaulted rooms further along the street on the left. These are the Neori Vechi shipyard remains. Unfortunately, the building of the main harbor road took out additional sites.
Historical Museum of Crete
Take a ten-minute walk west of the fortress along the harbor road in the Historical Museum. The museum, dating from 1953, focuses on preserving and showcasing Crete’s cultural heritage from early Byzantine times to today. The museum closes on Sundays. Behind the museum on the side street are the remains of the Idomenea Fountain.
Natural History Museum of Crete.
Ten-minutes further walk along the main street you will find this museum. Dating from the 1980s, it focuses on the natural environment of the eastern Mediterranean area, with an emphasis on Greece and Crete. Exhibits include Megadioramas of the eco-systems, small animals from the region, and an earthquake simulator. The museum is open every day.
25 Αυγούστου (August 25th) Street.
This passageway has been the “Main Street” of Heraklion since the Arab occupation in the 9th or 10th century. It links the market (town center) to the harbor. The Venetians called it the Ruga Maistra (Main Street.) During the Ottoman occupation, it went by Vezir Tsarsi (Vizier’s Market) near a mosque of the same name.
The name used today is in honor of a tragic event that took place on August 25th, 1898. During the Christian feast of St Titus, a Muslim mob slaughters many Christians. Those dead include 17 British soldiers and the British Consul to the Island. This act is the final straw that moves the Great Powers to place the Island under their protection. On December 1st, 1913, Crete became part of Greece.
The street, now a pedestrian way, boasts some of the best Neoclassical buildings in Heraklion. Dating from after 1898, they give visitors arriving by boat a favorable first impression. Like they did, start at the harbor to discover this charming street. Street numbers are approximate, as many buildings do not have them visible.
For architecture buffs, pop your head into #17 to see the atrium.
#19 Lipiparakis Megaron
Just beyond #17 (walking from the harbor) on the left far corner of Epimenidou Street is the Lipiparakis Megaron. Now the home to a tourist shop and bank, this was originally a private home. A Megaron was the Mycenean word for the great hall. The two-story part on the corner serves as the central entrance. The house is the three-story section on 25th and the matching wing on Epimenidou St.
#37 Agios Titos Church (St Titus.)
The actual address is Place Agios Titos, a square off of August 25th Street near #37. The current building, dating from 1857, was first an Ottoman mosque. The Cretans were tearing down the minaret while the last Ottomans were leaving the Island in 1920. A restoration in 1925 created the Orthodox church that is there today. The church name is for Titus, who traveled with the Apostle Paul as a disciple. During a stop on Crete, while returning to Jerusalem, Paul ordained his disciple Titus as bishop of Crete. (Approx 70 A.D.) He receives persecution and death in Gortyn in 96 A.D. Titus’s skull is a relic in the Church of St. Titus.
#43 City Hall / Venetian Loggia
The current loggia dating from around 1628, is the fourth on this spot. A loggia was an essential public building in all the Venetian cities and colonies. The Venetians would use it as a meeting place to discuss economic, commercial, and political matters. It was also the meeting place where gentlemen would pass the day. Today, it serves as the city hall and a location for public presentations.
Check out the open courtyard in the middle.
St. Mark’s Basilica.
In the next block, on your left is Vasiliki Agios Markos Municipal Art Gallery, where there is usually a complimentary art and crafts exhibition open to the public. The building is the reason to visit. Dating from 1239 A.D., when the Venetians came to Crete, it is a place for official ceremonies of the Venetian administration. To rub their victory in the face of the Greeks, they dedicate to their patron saint, St Mark. It originally had a clock tower similar to the one in Venice. It is the burial place of many Venetian nobles.
When the Ottomans take over, they destroy the clock tower and put a minaret in its place. When the Turks leave, their prayer tower is one of the first casualties of the new Greek city.
Eleftheriou Venizelou Square (Liondaria, or Lions Square)
Across the street from the Basilica/art gallery, will be the Lions Square. Surrounding the square are numerous cafes and tavernas.
The square is host to many parts of the town’s history. During the Arab rule (9th-10th century A.D.), the area may be the largest slave market in the Eastern Mediterranean.
During the Byzantine period (10th-13th century), it was the location of the Byzantine governor’s residence.
The Venetian times (13th-17th century.) The Palace (Palazzo Ducale) of the Island’s Venetian Duke fills most of the north side of the square.
Lions Fountain
In the center is a decorated fountain of eight cisterns with stone Greek mythology figures decorating them. There is a large circular bowl balancing on the heads of four sitting lions. Water spits from their mouths without the use of electricity.
Francesco Morosini, the Italian governor, inaugurated the fountain on April 25th, 1628, the feast of St Mark, Venice’s patron saint. The purpose was to bring much-needed water to the city. Like many Italian fountains, it was the “tap” at the end of a viaduct system — this system stretching eight miles from Mt Juktas.
Around the Square.
Opposite the palace was the granary, a long, three-story building where they held the grain (biade) market. The square’s name during this time is Piazza delle Biade. It is the main square of Heraklion and may have resembled St Mark’s Square in Venice.
The Turkish Vizier took control of the palace (1646 – 1898) during the Ottoman occupation. In 1856 a major earthquake destroyed much of the square as well as most of Heraklion. They do not rebuild the structure.
One block further is Dikeosinis Street, where the pedestrian-only August 25th Street ends.
Heraklion Central Market
Cross Dikeosinis Street and veer left to 1866 Street that meets the intersection on a diagonal. The street gets its name from a famous Cretan uprising in 1866. 1821 Street, the continuation of August 25th Street, refers to an earlier revolt against the Turks.
The market was once a place for fruit, vegetables, dairy, fish, and meat. Today, it mainly offers souvenirs, cheap clothes, and shoes. There are a few small cafés and tavernas.
Most chefs and cooks find their ingredients at the grocery store. Another option is the street market that sets up in a different neighborhood Monday through Saturday. There are also fish merchants along the harbor near the fortress.
Bembo Fountain and Ottoman Pump House.
If you do walk the length of the market, (approx. three hundred yards long,) see the remains of this fountain. Dating from 1552 A.D., it is, like most fountains, dispensing fresh water to the public. The figure is a Greek sculpture; they “borrow” from a different location, to decorate the fountain. The missing head is typical of many Greek statues. The head is a separate piece which you could replace without having to chisel an entirely new body. The coats of arms are Venetian families at the time of its building.
When the Ottomans came along, they disconnected the Roman fountain. They built a pump house, their version of a public water source. Both sites hide behind an outdoor cafe.
Agios Minas Cathedral
This Greek Orthodox Cathedral serves as the seat of the Archbishop of Crete. They dedicate it to Agios (Saint) Menas, the martyr, who is the patron saint of Heraklion. Dating from 1862-1895, the church is in the shape of a crucifix with a central dome. With more than 14,500 square feet, it is the largest in Crete and one of the largest cathedrals in Greece.
Church Square.
Adjacent to Agios Minas Cathedral are:
Ecclesiastical Museum Agia Ekaterini (Saint Katherine.) – Dating from the 13th century, it has seen many renovations. The current building dating from 1555. Between the 15th and 17th-centuries, it is the headquarters of the Stravaganti Academy. This group of people shares their knowledge. (Early think tank.) They will play a significant part in the intellectual and artistic shaping of the Island. During the Ottoman occupation, the church became a mosque. Remnants of the minaret are still visible, although the majority of it disappears quickly upon Crete’s liberation. Today, the church is a religious museum of Ecclesiastical articles from all over Crete. Even for the non-Catholic, it is an excellent peek at the Byzantine period and the Cretan School of Icon Painting.
The Small Temple of Agios Minas and Pantanassas.
This small church becomes one of the centers of Orthodox Christians during the time of the Ottoman occupation. It was here in June 1821 that the Ottomans slaughtered the bishops, abbots, clergy, and parishioners for their participation in the Greek War of Independence that had recently started. Dating from 1735, it is the namesake of the square.
Ekklisia Agios Mattheos Sinaiton (Church of Ayios Mattheos of Sinaites)
A five-minute walk south from the cathedral brings you to the Greek Orthodox Church of Agios Mattheos (St. Matthew) of Sinai. The church, dating from 1508, sits upon the ruins of an earlier Byzantine church. This church was the leading Christian temple during the Turkish occupation.
The Turks take the monastery of Agia Ekaterini, making it a mosque. The monks move the monastery to St. Matthew.
The church’s exhibition of icons is one of the best collections of works from the famous Cretan School of Iconography. This small, yet outstanding collection includes The Crucifixion by Georgios Kastrofilakas, Saint Titus, and the Scenes of the Life of 10 Martyrs by Ioannis Cornaro, as well as works by Michael Damascenos.
The churchyard contains the graves of several prominent Cretans as well as foreigners killed in the August 25th massacre. The peaceful setting is worth the visit. The lack of tourist buses almost makes it mandatory.
City Walls
History
- First Byzantine Period, (330-828 A.D.) The Byzantines are the first to build walls in Heraklion. Unfortunately, almost all of these walls are now arts of homes and buildings.
- The Muslim Arab Period, (828-961 A.D.) The conquering Saracen armies build an imposing fortification. They name it the Fortress of the Trench, due to the dry moat/trench around it. Very few of these are visible.
- Second Byzantine Period (961-1211 A.D.) – There is little indication that the Byzantines did anything to enhance the walls. Perhaps that’s why the Fourth Crusade and the Venetians can overthrow the Byzantine.
- Venetian period (1211-1669 A.D.) – For the first 250 years, the Venetians were able to maintain the existing walls. With additional threats and a growing city, they began to build new walls in 1462. These walls would take more than one hundred years to complete. Many of these walls, including the harbor, can be seen today. The main wall was just under two miles long and had four gates. They will add three more as traffic increases. There are seven bastions. Surrounding the walls is a massive moat that had additional fortifications on the outside. They have all disappeared.
- Ottoman Period, (1669-1897 A.D.) – The Ottomans broke through the walls in 1669 with the help of a Cretan-Venetian builder who knew the walls weak points. After seizing the city, they quickly rebuilt the damaged walls (better.) The walls did not suffer any additional significant damage for the next 270 years.
- World War II. (1941-1945 A.D.) – During the Battle of Crete, the Nazi Luftwaffe bombards much of Heraklion. They destroy many sections of the city and walls.
Strolling.
Today, there are many sections of the wall remaining that you can see and, in many places, walk on. Starting at the west end of town, some of the sights include:
Saint Andreas bastion. – Less than a ten-minute walk from the Natural History Museum, this bastion marks the city’s western point. It is one of the seven towers/posts where they house men and ammunition.
They destroy/incorporate most of the defenses between here and the Koules fortress when building the coast road.
It was through a weakness in the St Andreas section that the Ottomans were able to access the city.
Pantocratora bastion. – One of the original four gates is approximately 500 yards from St Andrews. You can reach it by following a gravel pedestrian road on top of the wall. Except for the wall, there is no structure remaining. There is some signage explaining the area. There are a few tattered (last time I was there) benches but no shade and no facilities.
Just beyond the bastion, you will pass over the Chaniaporta (Chania Gate.) They add this opening several years later, and it leads to Chania to the west.
Bethlehem bastion. – This bastion is approximately 1500 yards from Pantocrator. Just beyond the stronghold is the Bethlehem gate, (Pyli Vithleem.) From here, it is a five-minute walk to Ekklisia Agios Mattheos Sinaiton church.
Martinengo bastion, – is the largest of the Bastions and the most southern part of the walls. From here, a walkway and stairs connect the wall to the Cultural Conference Center of Heraklion, and some minor sites, a small fountain, and chapel, inside the walls at street level. The foundation of one of the massive towers is still intact. It holds the most visited spot on the walls.
Nikos Kazantzakis
The Tomb of Nikos Kazantzakis (1883 – 1957) one of the best known and loved Greek writers. Born in Ottoman-occupied Kandiye (now Heraklion), he became a giant of modern Greek literature. His novels include Zorba the Greek (1946), Christ Recrucified (1948), Captain Michalis (1950), and The Last Temptation of Christ (1955).
In addition to writing travel books, plays, memoirs, and philosophical essays, he also translated notable works into Modern Greek. These include Dante’s The Divine Comedy from Italian, Nietzsche’s Thus Spoke Zarathustra from German, and Homer’s The Iliad from Ancient Greek. He was nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature in nine different years. He never won.
Although avoiding ex-communication from the church, his questioning of Christian doctrine lead the Orthodox Church to ban his burial in a cemetery. His very plain marker reads, “I hope for nothing. I fear nothing. I am free.” There are approximately 40 steps to reach the gravesite from the top of the wall.
The Eastern Walls
Jesus bastion, – (Pili tou Iisou), also known as the New Gate, is a short walk (on the wall) from the Martinengo bastion. Like most of the strongholds, it does not have ancient structures upon it. The adjoining Kainouria Porta contains many small shops built into the wall.
Vitturi bastion – is not like any bastion you have seen to this point. There are quite a few structures on it, but none of them are original. The city now claims the area and small houses are everywhere.
The Gate of St. George – One of the four original gates, is also unique. Instead of running perpendicular to the wall, it is in the crook where the bastion meets the wall.
This tunnel creates a 150 feet long gallery, running to a parking lot and the ruins of an old mill. The gallery is often home to painting, photography, and sculpture, exhibitions.
The gate’s construction is in 1565 according to decorations adorning it. It was in hiding for many years under Liberty Square until the rediscovery in the 2000s.
Heraklion Archaeological Museum
The museum has one of the most important collections of artifacts from the Bronze-age Minoan culture. The exhibits cover a period from the Neolithic era until late Roman times, adding up to ten millennia.
Besides numerous artifacts from the Palace at Knossos, you will also see the Disk of Phaistos. Also, there are interesting artifacts from the palaces at Aghia Triadha, Malia, and Zakros.
Sabbionara bastion – From here on, it becomes a little blurry what is a stronghold and what is a wall? The reason is that the city is flush with the top of the wall on the town side. Where bastion begins, and wall ends are up for debate. A busy street runs the length of most of the wall, so walking is not as peaceful.
The Sandy Gate (Sandonara) is on the sea (harbor) side. At one time, it was to a sandy beach that is now the commercial harbor. Circa 2014, after years of restoration, they reopen it.
The Harbour Gate (Pili tou Molou) was one of the original four gates. It stood at the far end of 25 August Street, leading to the harbor. It is no longer there.
Outside Heraklion
Knossos
It is the reason to visit Heraklion. It is Crete’s most important Bronze Age archaeological site, and many refer to it as Europe’s oldest city. The first settlement may date back to around 8,000 B.C., during the Neolithic period, (10,000 – 6500 B.C.)
What remains today was once the ceremonial and political center of the Minoan civilization. (3500 – 1100 B.C.)
They abandon the palace perhaps at the end of the Late Bronze Age, (1380–1100 B.C.) Unfortunately, none of the relics or writings reveal precisely when or why. A history of natural disasters may be part of the reason.
What they do seem to tell us is that the first peak period of the Minoans in this area was around 2000 B.C., and there may have been up to 18,000 people living here. Three hundred years later, the population may have been 100,000.
Middle Minoan (2,000 – 1700 B.C.)
It is sometime during this period that the Minoans make the jump from an agricultural village to cities with castles. These buildings were to show political and religious authority. They also imply great wealth. The palaces were Knossos, Mallia, Phaestos, and Zakro. By 1700, most of them had crumbled under earthquakes.
New Palace Period (1750 – 1500 B.C.)
This period was the golden age of the Minoans. They rebuilt the palaces larger and grander. In a comprehensive description, they are courtyards interconnecting with small villages living in them. A large central courtyard and an administrative building were in the middle. Knossos was the largest of the palaces, with the main building covering three acres.
Experts predict the population on several things they unearth. At Knossos, there are sixteen rooms for storage. In these rooms, they find large storage jars called pithoi. These could be more than five feet tall and able to store almost 400 gallons of liquid. The residue of oil, wine, wool, and grain is present within them. They also find lead-lined containers for valuables.
The palace has indoor plumbing, which includes bathrooms, toilets, and a drainage system that all work via gravity. The indoor areas have light by broad stair and light wells that are open to the sky in the middle. The buildings have multiple floors. The upper floors’ support is by stone pillars with wooden beams. The roofs are brushwood (lightweight) and a thin layer of clay muck to make them semi-waterproof. The walls are of unbaked brick.
With no steel, concrete, baked brick, or nails, it is impressive what condition the palace is in 3000+ years later.
As for the arts and culture, the inside rooms and hallways have frescoes (wall paintings) showing scenes from everyday life. In some areas, it is a repeating pattern. Think predecessor to wallpaper.
The frescos also work as snapshots and information sources. How? They show us the dress, hairstyles, and activities of the people. They show people planting, indicating an agricultural society, and the people are thin, women wearing tightly drawn belts.
The Arts
The courtyards are for rituals and pageants. Outside of the main building, they find a theater capable of holding 400 spectators. Although the seating is round like Greek theaters to follow, the orchestral area is rectangular. This space may have been a dance floor more than a place for musicians. Pre-Dancing With Stars.
Finances
Excavations unearth Minoan pottery as far away as Anatolia (Turkey) Egypt, Sicily, Syria, and mainland Greece. Much of their wealth came from trading. In addition to farming their Island, there were either Minoan colonies or partnerships on Santorini, Rhodes, Miletus, and Samos.
Excavating
As I mentioned before, the Minoans disappear by 1100 B.C. Later, civilizations do not use the Minoan palaces or villages. Possibly the damage is beyond repair. The remains slowly vanish under runoff during the rainy season, and sand/dirt blowing in the wind. The site sits undisturbed for the next 3000 years.
Rediscovered.
It’s not that Knossos disappears completely. Stories and some written documentary tells of a potential Minoan city somewhere in the area near Heraklion. Over the years, several amateur sleuths do some excavating here and there with little to show for it. Then, in 1878, a Greek Minos Kalokairinos uncovers parts of the Knossos site. Unfortunately, he does not have financing the purchase of the site, (the owner is an Ottoman) or to excavate.
That English Man
As we learned earlier, Sir Arthur Evans was, at best, an amateur archeologist. However, he has money, and through several questionable transactions, becomes the owner of the Knossos site. Evans begins by sloppily removing the top layers. What clues he tosses to the side disappear.
Being British, he immediately styled the Minoans on the British, establishing a king and queen, although later findings would question if the Minoans had such a hierarchy. He called the structure a palace, as every king needs one. Further evidence points to the site being a religious compound or even a cemetery for the leaders and priests.
His most significant controversy was his reconstruction of the site. Without looking at the instructions, he assembled his vision of what it should look like in his head. He used concrete to reinforce walls and doorways and painted them in a color scheme of his imagination.
What if?
It could have been worse. Evans had some experience in excavation, but more importantly, surrounded himself with people more experienced. He has money, as archeology was the sport of wealthy people. He manages to buy it out from under other serious bidders.
One of those was Heinrich Schliemann, a German posing as an archeologist. In his race to find Troy, he begins excavating a site that may or may not have been Troy. Using dynamite, he accomplishes in short order, what Agamemnon could not. He brings down the walls of Troy. Schliemann discards the top levels with no mapping, cataloging, or saving of artifacts. When he finds jewelry, he announces it is the Jewels of Helen, before smuggling them out of the country. Later testing will date the jewels to a period several hundred years before the “Troy” period.
So if we have to have a self-proclaimed “archeologist,” Evans is the lesser of the evils.
Visit the site. What remains is spectacular. Stop and realize it is close to 4,000 years old and still standing. It will take hold of you. Go with the idea that color schemes are off, and where you see cement, it’s probably not original. Then visit the Heraklion Archaeological Museum to see the artifacts that they were able to salvage.
The Nikos Kazantzakis Museum
A 20-minute drive beyond the site of Knossos is the village of Myrtia. Here you will find a museum dedicated to the life and work of the Cretan writer Nikos Kazantzakis. Audio, video, as well as professional and personal artifacts, present a very educational history. For fans of the written word, it is exciting.
There are several wineries within a ten-minute drive of Myrtia. In case you’re looking for an afternoon with a good book and some wine.