THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
Torino, or Turin?
Hiding in the northwest corner of Italy is a place so few people know and I don’t understand why. Turin (on maps) Torino to most Italians, has so much to offer.
If you’re into UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Torino has a doozy. The Residences of the Royal House of Savoy is not one, but twenty-two palaces, country houses, and hunting lodges in and around Torino.
The Savoys were the ruling family in the area of Northern France (savoy) from 1070 A.D. By 1562, they are bigger and now own the Kingdom of Sardinia. The Duke of Savoy moves his capital to Turin. He begins a building program to show everyone just how powerful (rich) they were.
There are eleven palaces in town and also eleven “cottages” for the weekend and hunting lodges. You can visit many of them today. They are open as lavish palaces, museums and two serve as university buildings.
Tasting UNESCO
You can’t eat a world heritage site, can you? The Vineyard Landscape of Piedmont: Langhe-Roero and Monferrato are just south of Torino.
This listing includes five distinct wine growing areas and the castle, Castello di Grinzane Cavour. The regions represent the ancient expertise of man and his environment. The understanding of a diverse range of soils, varieties of grape, and climate to produce excellent wines.
Piedmont has 58 D.O.C. (D.O.C.G.) zones of wine. That’s around 16% of Italy’s D.O.C. (Denomination of Controlled and Origin,) wines. Reds wines are the king but try the whites as well.
Although not part of the UNESCO listing, the area also many P.D.O. products. There are ten PDO kinds of cheese, and a PDO salame and Crudo to go with them.
And what about the Tartufo Bianco d’Alba? The white truffles from Alba. They get their festival in October and November. The international white truffle auction takes place in Castello di Grinzane Cavour.
Two Degrees of Separation
As if the Royal residences and the Piedmont landscapes were not enough, there’s another link. The University of Gastronomic Sciences, a university created by the Slow Food association, is in Pollenzo. It is inside the Castello di Pollenzo. Do you want to take a wild guess at who the original owners of the castle are?
Did we talk about Turin, (nothing is too good for the Savoys) being the first Italian importers of cocoa? In 1585, the current Duke of Savoy married Catherine, daughter of Philip II of Spain. Spain is importing cocoa from their colonies. By 1700, Turin is exporting chocolate to France, Austria, Germany, and Switzerland.
So lets recap: award-winning wines, cheeses, chocolates, and white truffles. And you have not been here why?
What Else Torino?
The Savoys were not responsible for all the impressive buildings in Torino. The tree-lined boulevards have a rich collection of architecture from the Renaissance. There is also Baroque, Rococo, Neo-Classical, and even Art Nouveau styles. And there are some that seem to have a style all their own.
The Mola (large) Antonelliana (name of the architect,) is the citie’s architectural symbol. It was going to be a synagogue, but Antonelli’s ambitions (and budget) went higher than the Jewish community could pay. So they cancel the contract.
The city, with a large unfinished building defining its skyline, finishes the project in 1889. Today, it is the National Cinema Museum.
The Romans
Palatine Towers – are the most impressive structure remaining from the Romans. They date from the first century A.D. The area of Augusta Taurinorum was very important to the Romans. They had a colony here from probably the 9th century B.C. Why? Because major routes (valleys) through the Alps to modern-day France and Spain began here. In reverse, the Gaulic and Celtic warriors would be arriving via these valleys.
The Parco Archeologico is small but interesting. In addition to the Palatine Towers, marking the northern gate to the city, there are other sites within walking distance. Passing through the entrance from the outside, you enter the Piazza Cesare Augusto. Here you can see parts of the original main street. Walk to the end of the stone street. To your left, you will see the bell tower to the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist.
To the left of the bell tower is a segment of a Roman Theater (Area Archeologica del Teatro Romano.) The imposing building towering over the ruins is the Galleria Sabauda, the “new wing” of the palace built circa 1900. It houses the archeological collection on the ground floor. And perhaps the most beautiful French and Flemish collection on the higher levels.
Shrouded in Mystery
The Turin Duomo is the citie’s cathedral and dates from 1498. They build it on the site of three previous chapels. The Chapel of the Shroud is inside.
In 1563, they tore down the Apse of the cathedral to create a magnificent Baroque chapel. It is for a religious artifact and guess who owns it? The Savoys. It is the Holy Shroud or the Shroud of Turin. The family will hold it until 1983. In that year, they gift the shroud to Pope John Paul II and the Catholic Church.
As far as seeing the shroud, the actual one is very fragile and in a climate-controlled room. It was last visible to the public in 2015.
The Chapel of the Shroud, while undergoing renovations in the 1990s, has a fire destroying much of the original dome. In 2018, it finally reopened to the public after a restoration of the renovation. It is worth a look.
There is the Museo della Sindone; approximately 10-minutes drive from the chapel that has information on and a replica of the shroud.
Further Out of Town
Parco del Valentino has several styles of architecture to view. There is the grandiose Savoy Residence Castello del Valentino, but the park has other treasures. Tucked away at one end of the park is Rocca Medievale. This Medieval Castle and village was part of the 1884 Turin Expo. It is a faithful copy of a 15th-century castle.
The Lingotto (Fiat) building is south of town in an industrial area that is having an incredible renaissance. The building, dating from 1923, was one of Fiat’s car factories. Today, it is a modern complex, with concert and movie theaters, convention space, a multi-level mall, and a hotel. Turin’s Eataly is across the street on several levels. More hotels, shops, and restaurants are on the way.
Torino Summary
Torino / Turin has so much to offer. UNESCO World Heritage sites, fascinating history and an embarrassment of food and beverage. Two hours east of Milan and the same from Genoa to the south, it forms a great Italian vacation triangle.
Due to its location, not far from the Alps, Torino does not get blistering summer temperatures. The average daytime high in June through September are in the 70s°F. December through February your daytime highs are below 40 but not by much. May is rainy with April close behind. August and October are also “rainier” months with an average of three inches for the month.
People look at me funny when I suggest Milan and Torino as a great taste of Italy. Can you see the possibilities?
To learn more about Turin, Click on this Orange Link.
Please “Leave a Reply” below to this: What would you do with three days in Torino?
“See Bordeaux France” Continued on Page T3 “Taste Aegina Greece” Continued on T4