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Bordeaux is a magical place in the southwest of France. Sitting on the Garonne River, it is approximately one hour’s drive to the Atlantic Ocean due west, and two hours drive to Cognac to the north. Paris is just over an hour away by plane or four hours by train.
For history buffs, it is the capital of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine (New Aquitaine) region, which was once part of Aquitaine, one of the most powerful of the ancient fiefdoms and home to Eleanor of Aquitaine (1137–1152). She held many titles, including Duchess of Aquitaine, queen of France, and queen dowager. Her husbands include King Louis VII of France and King Henry II of England, and her sons became kings, including Henry, John, and Richard the Lionheart.
The Noble Grape.
The wine buffs know of Bordeaux. It is the capital of the French wine industry, producing more than 700 million bottles a year. Agriculture and viticulture (grapes) are the areas two primary industries ahead of tourism and aerospace. That equates to just under 17 billion dollars in sales. The wines range from everyday table wine to some of the most prestigious (expensive) wines in the world. Reds make up the vast majority of wines, with sweet and dry whites coming in a far second. You can also find rosé and sparkling wines in small quantities.
There are more than 8,500 chateaux (manor homes) or producers of Bordeaux wine. Within Bordeaux are 54 appellation d’origine contrôlée (A.O.C. means a protected designation of origin). These safeguard wines, cheeses, and butter by geographical location or source.
In the Book.
In preparation for the 1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris, Emperor Napoleon III wanted to impress the world with everything French. He requests the best wines and a classification system for them. The results, the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855, ranking Bordeaux wines by the château’s reputation and wines trading price.
The rankings have changed very little since 1855, with wines from the Médoc, Graves, Margaux, Pauillac, and St. Julien areas covering most of the reds. Sauternes and Barsac are leading the listings for the whites. Just a few of the most famous (and expensive) labels include Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, Château Haut-Brion, and Château Mouton Rothschild. These wines, selling at auctions, have sold for more than $200,000 a bottle.
In France, one does not just drive up to the chateaux and ask to taste the wine. You must make reservations in advance. Be aware; they may change at the last minute due to something unexpected at the winery. Once again, viniculture comes before tourism in this area. That means the grape comes before the traveler. Don’t you wish all your food and drink received such attention?
In Bordeaux.
The city and countryside are also spectacular. There are indications of a settlement here dating back to 567 B.C. Today, the city’s historic area is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Bordeaux has more preserved historical buildings than any city in France, except for Paris.
The terrain varies from the sandy beaches on the Atlantic to the limestone fields of Graves. Then east to the rolling hillside near Saint-Émilion.
Joël Robuchon, entrecôte steak, and Bordelaise sauce.
You cannot have the best wines in the world without cuisine that can hold its own with them? You can’t. And thank goodness for us, Bordeaux has risen to the challenge.
Fresh oysters and other seafood from the nearby ocean and rivers represent surf. For turf, there is the local entrecôte steak, foie gras, and milk-fed lamb. Seafood, as well as beef, can go with a Bordelaise sauce. Any guesses what a sauce from Bordeaux will have in it?
As of 2019, there were eight restaurants in the Bordeaux region with Michelin stars. Three of these restaurants have two stars. It was in Bordeaux, where French chef Joël Robuchon opened one of his last restaurants in 2014. He receives two more of his total to 32 Michelin stars.
What is in Bordeaux for me?
See & Hear.
Visitors should focus on the beautiful landscape of the country and the magnificent architecture of the city.
Immerse yourself in a museum or musical performance in the Grande Theater.
Another option is to sit in a square, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Bordeaux is all about taste, the food, the wine. The smell of fresh bread, grilled meats, or a robust red wine. Your nose and taste buds should be wearing out by the end.
Feel.
Sip a glass of wine on a terrace of a French chateau.
Watch the shadows grow longer across the rolling hills of grapevines.
You are contemplating your day of culinary overload.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should-see in Bordeaux.
The UNESCO World Heritage Sites,
Great news for your eyes, not so much for your feet; Bordeaux has the most extensive urban UNESCO World Heritage Site in the world. Some cities may have one or two sites, or like Athens, seven sites on one Acropolis. Bordeaux is like no other. Its listing is more than half of the city. The designation covers 2718 acres out of the city’s total of 4400 acres. Paging Dr. Scholl’s.
Place de la Bourse.
Starting at the center of town, across from the Port de la Lune (Port of the moon), there is this iconic 18th-century square with traditional architecture, a fountain, and a Reflecting Pool, the Miroir d’eau, one of the world’s largest.
Place du Parlement.
The square, dating from 1760, is in the Italian-style and two blocks from the Place de la Bourse. It is a historical monument to the Parliament of Bordeaux that helped govern from 1451 to 1790.
Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux.
This grand theatre design is as a temple of the Arts and Light. The building began in 1780. Garnier copies ideas for his opera house in Paris. It is home to the National Opera and ballet.
Place de la Comédie Square.
Home to the Grand Theatre, the Grand Hotel, and where the main streets of the city converge. It is also the shopping area. Meet me by the clock.
Place des Quinconces.
Dating from 1820, it is one of the largest city squares anywhere in Europe. Several impressive statues and fountains decorate the square.
Monument aux Girondins.
You will find this in the Place des Quinconces. The monument, dating from 1894, is a fountain/monument honoring the Girondin deputies. These are the parliament members executed during the French revolution.
Palais Gallien.
Very few arches and bays remain of this once-majestic Roman arena dating to the 1st century A.D. Originally, it was outside the city walls. The inner arena was 230 feet long by 155 feet wide. Seating for 20,000 would circle the inner-arena.
Bordeaux Cathedral.
Dating from 1096 A.D., the Cathedral of Saint Andrew of Bordeaux still has a wall remaining from the original structure. Much of what you see today dates to the 14th – 15th centuries.
Tour Pey Berland.
Archbishop Pey-Berland pays to build a separate tower for the eight-ton bell Ferdinand-André so protect the cathedral integrity. Two hundred thirty-one, narrow steps lead to a spectacular city view. The building holds 19 visitors at one time, so expect lines.
Basilica of St. Michael, Bordeaux.
The basilica, dating from the end of the 14th century, this flamboyant Gothic style basilica is easy to spot. It has a separate bell tower next to it rising 374 feet. The intricate pulpit representing Saint Michael slaying the dragon is worth seeing.
Puerta de Cailhau.
This city gate, dating from 1495, is a combination of both decorative and defensive elements. The decoration is in honor of King Charles VIII, commemorating his win at the battle of Fornovo.
The Grosse Cloche (Big Bell).
Saint-Eloy Gate, also known as Saint-James, dating back to the 1400s, has always had a bell hanging in its tower. The current one, dating from 1775 after the great fire, weighs 7.8 tons and is 6.5 feet tall and wide. It was once a call to arms, a warning of fire or to signal the beginning of grape picking season. Today, it only rings on New Years Day, Bastille Day, Bordeaux Liberation Day, and Armistice Day. Tours are available.
Church Saint-Éloi.
Adjacent to the Big Bell is this historic gothic church. It is a French historical monument as well as part of the UNESCO site.
Pont Jacques Chaban-Delmas.
This vertical-lift bridge dating from 2013, is the longest vertical-lift bridge in Europe at that time.
Basilica of Saint Severinus of Bordeaux.
Dating from the 11th century, this is a UNESCO site. It is still a stopping point by pilgrims on the Ways of Saint James of Compostela.
Porte de Bourgogne.
Dating from 1757, the Burgandy Gate marks the entrance to the city from Paris in the old days. Sixty years later, they build the Pont de Pierre as the approach.
Pont de Pierre.
The Stone Bridge, dating from 1819 A.D., was the first bridge across the Garonne River near Bordeaux. Napoleon I orders the bridge several years earlier. It has 17 arches, one for each letter in Napoléon Bonaparte. It remains the only bridge until 1965.
Saint-Michel Neighborhood.
Just past Pont de Pierre to the south is the district around St. Michel Basilica. A market by the church sells produce on the weekends. On weekdays it is more of a flea market.
Church of the Holy Cross, Bordeaux.
A Romanesque church dating from the late 11th century, one of its past lives include as a Benedictine abbey. The still-working organ inside dates from the 18th century.
Capucins – Victoire Neighborhood.
Just beyond Saint-Michel is the Capucins – Victory neighborhood. It is known for its Moroccan restaurants, small butchers’ shops, and bakeries. Here you will find the late-night bar scene.
Marché des Capucins.
This market is the largest in town. It seems like the whole city comes here to shop. For meats and cheeses, there’s a seafood section, fruits and vegetable stands, and of course, bakeries. There are also snack bars and restaurants so you can dine in. Or create a progressive meal as you nibble while you walk, or plan a great picnic. Before entering, go to the car park’s first floor and get a view of the market below. Get your bearings.
Place de la Victoire.
Victory Square is another main square in the city. Here you will see the Puerta de Aquitania, an ancient triumphal arch.
Museums.
Bordeaux has 11 significant museums ranging from Art to Wine. Some of these include:
Musée d’Aquitaine.
This history museum covers Bordeaux’s history from early times until today. It is a six-minute walk from the cathedral and city hall.
Musée des Beaux-Arts de Bordeaux.
Set in a former palace, this museum of classical art has pieces from the Renaissance to the 19th century. It is one of France’s largest museums outside of Paris. Just behind the city hall (Hotel de Ville).
Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle.
A short walk from the Place des Quinconces and Palais Gallien, it occupies a former mansion from 1781. It became a museum in 1858, and its immense collections number over one million items. The museum is undergoing a significant renovation. The reopening should be in early 2019.
CAPC musée d’art contemporain de Bordeaux.
Dating from 1973, this is one of the first contemporary art museums in France. It is a few minute’s walk from the natural history museum.
Musée du Vin et du Négoce de Bordeaux.
This museum is the original wine museum of Bordeaux. A high-tech wine collection is covering 2000 years of wine history in Bordeaux. There are displays and tastings.
La Cite du Vin.
More a wine experience, this site on the river explores the many facets of wine (not just local) through time. It also features the Belvedere, where you can taste a glass of wine and enjoy a 360° view of Bordeaux.
Museum of Decorative Arts of Bordeaux (MADD).
The museum, set in a former mansion, specializes in French ceramics, glassware & other decorative arts from the 18th and 19th centuries.
Bordeaux has so much to offer for everyone.