Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT.
HOUSE OF SAVOY
SHOULD SEE TURIN
NEARBY TURIN
Turin (Torino) is the capital of the Piedmont region. It was the first capital of The Kingdom of Italy starting in 1861. In 1865 King Emmanuel would move it to Rome.
To the north and west of the city are the Alps. Once forming the eastern boundary of the town is the Po River. It is now in the middle of town. There are now more than two million citizens in the Turin area.
Ancient Turin
The Taurini were an old Alpine people who were living in the upper valley of the Po River. We know little about them, except they appear to be farmers. They were already there when Hannibal came to town in 218 B.C.
Their long-standing enemies in the area, the Insubres, are a Gaulic tribe who quickly partner with Hannibal. The Taurini are no match.
The Romans may establish a colony here in 27 B.C., which they call Castra Taurinorum. The settlement does not appear in historical documents until around 9 B.C. when they rename the town as Julia Augusta Taurinorum. In reports, they point out its critical position to one of the passes through the Alps.
Not So Ancient
Today’s modern city still follows the typical Roman street grid from more than 2,000 years ago. There is a current neighborhood they call the Quadrilatero Romano (Roman Quadrilateral). Starting at the Piazza Castello, Via Giuseppe Garibaldi replaces the Roman city’s decumanus (major east-west street.) In Roman times, there was an east gate where the Palazzo Madama now stands.
Roman Roulette
The area of Turin went through a similar fate as much of Italy. With the fall of the Western Roman Empire in 476, others were quick to descend. Turin would be under the Germanic Heruli, and the Ostrogoths before the Romans regain control circa 534. This rebound is short as the Germanic Lombards soon take over. In 773, the whole area falls to the Germanic Franks and their leader, Charlemagne.
House of Savoy
The origins of this dynasty are cloudy at best. Most historians agree it begins with Humbert I, who may be from the Burgundy area. He supports the German emperors Henry II and Conrad II in their campaigns against the Lombards. For this, Conrad II rewards him with three counties in Eastern France, Western Switzerland, and Northern Italy. And the title, Count of Savoy. The year is 1003 A.D.
These regions are at either end of strategic passes through the Alps. This “reward” gives the Savoys almost absolute control over trade between Italy and Western Europe for the next several centuries.
With their unlimited wealth, they marry into the crucial families in the area, collecting real estate as they go.
In 1416, the Emperor elevated the Count to the Duke of Savoy.
In 1536, Francis I of France invaded Savoy and Piedmont taking Turin and the Savoys land. The Duke flees to Chambery.
When the next Duke of Savoy takes control in 1553, he offers his services (and finances) to France’s enemy, the House of Habsburg. For his support in overthrowing the French, by 1560, he has back all the Savoy land plus more. This “reward” includes Turin.
In 1563, they moved their administrative center to Turin.
It Grows.
The 1600s brings economic development to the Turin area, and the House of Savoy benefits. They develop the port of Nice, which they now own. Then they build and control the roads to reach it through the Alps.
Charles II of Spain dies in 1700 without an heir, and the War of the Spanish Succession breaks out. The war is between the Bourbons of France and Habsburgs of Germany, both with family lineage to the throne. The House of Savoy backs the winning Habsburgs. In 1715 the Savoys received large pieces of northeastern Italy and Sicily, which is a kingdom. With a domain, you get a crown and the title King.
And Grows
Under Napoleon, the house of Savoy must grant the French army free passage through Piedmont. By 1798, the king abdicates and leaves for the island of Sardinia. It will not be until 1814 that control comes back to the house of Savoy. And of course, with some extra land, this time the Republic of Genoa.
Turin During the Savoys.
Turin is a commercial town, trading with the east and west but not growing much between 800 and 1563. In the 1100s, a prince-bishop takes control for a while. And between 1230-1235, the neighboring Marquises of Montferrat tries to push the boundaries. Other than that, Turin governs itself.
In 1563, when the Duchy of Savoy receives Turin as a war prize, things begin to change. The Savoys make it their new administrative center.
They enlarge the city and walls to the south and west, something hindering the growth of the town until now. Then they add the Via Nuova (today Via Roma.) It connects the Palace Square with the stately new Piazza Reale (Piazza San Carlo.)
They build the Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace of Turin) as the current castle is not big enough. They construct buildings with arcades on both sides of the Via Po, reaching to the river.
The city enjoys prosperity (Savoy wealth) until 1706. The French attack. Savoy is victorious and acquires Sicily. The French attack again in 1802 (Napoleon), and Turin is back under the French until 1814. The French influence on the city is mild.
Turin Blossoms.
Losing the capital did nothing to hurt Turin. In 1871, they opened the 8.5-mile Fréjus Rail Tunnel linking Turin with Chambéry in France. Now Italy has trade routes to France and Spain via rail.
The local economy is prospering, and iconic landmarks begin to appear. These include the Mole Antonelliana, and nearby grand Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the new living room of Turin. Across the river, from the Piazza, they build the Gran Madre di Dio church. Other cultural sights, such as the Egyptian Museum, open their doors.
Around the beginning of the 1900s, Turin has an industrial boom. In 1899 Fiat begins producing cars. Lancia will start production within seven years. In 1906 the Società Anonima Italiana Darracq (SAID) began building cars by hand. They will later become the Alfa Romeo Car Company. In 1902, Turin hosted The Universal Exposition and did so well; they hosted it again in 1911. Many of the citie’s beautiful Art Nouveau structures date from this period.
The Wars
Following World War I, Turin’s economy is similar to most of Italy’s. People grow unhappy and stage strikes and protests. When workers begin occupying factories (especially car production), the Fascist regime steps in to facilitate. (The army needs vehicles.) They ban trade unions and jail the socialist leaders.
Turin is a central industrial town by the time the next World War rolls around. It becomes a favorite target of Allied bombing. When Mussolini falls from power and Italy tries to side with the Allies, the Germans rush in. They will remain in Italy until 1945.
In the postwar years, Turin becomes the Detroit of Italy. The automotive industry plays a leading role in the economy as people rush to buy cars starting in the 1950s. Just like Detroit, when the 1970s oil and 1980s automotive industry slumps hit, the city takes a direct hit.
Turin Today
In 2006, Turin was host to the XX Olympic Winter Games. (Torino 2006.) This worldwide event brings a much-needed boost to tourism. The automotive and other industries retool, reduce, and reorganize, so they are showing profits again. Turin begins attracting young Italians as a place to work and live. By 2018, the industrial area of town has trendy malls and hotels.
What is in Turin for me?
See & Hear.
You could spend many days just admiring the Renaissance, Baroque, Neo-classical, and Art Nouveau architecture. In the city, there are 11 UNESCO castles, gardens, and palaces dating from the 16th and 18th centuries. There are incredible museums to explore, including the Museo Egizio and the Mole Antonelliana.
Taste & Smell.
The birthplace of Italian chocolate, white truffles, P.D.O. Cheeses, and UNESCO designated vineyards make this a foodie must-taste. There are several chocolatiers in the city, each one with its specialties. The smell of chocolate is intoxicating. There are enough award-winning wines and cheeses that you would not have to repeat one for two months.
Feel.
After strolling the Via Po’s arcaded sidewalks, enter into the red and gold interiors of Cafe Fiorio. They have been serving confections to the artistic, intellectual, and political communities of Turin since 1780. Sitting at one of the red velvet banquettes, sipping a Bicerin.
This beverage is a Turin tradition of espresso, drinking chocolate and milk that they layer. Sipping my hot chocolate treat and expecting one of the Savoy queens to come through the curtains at the end of the 1800s room. There may be better ways to finish an afternoon, but this way doesn’t suck.
The House of Savoy in Turin
You have to start with the 11 (out of 22) Royal Residences of the House of Savoy in the city. They are a significant part of Turin’s history.
When the Duke of Savoy transfers the capital of his Duchy to Turin, the city requires a facelift. They completely reorganize the area over the next 100 years, adding a Baroque influence. The plan follows a central core where the political power is. Then, there is a ring (crown) of pleasure palaces just outside the city. Another circle further into the country includes summer and hunting palaces. There was no mistaking who was ruling and where they lived.
- Castello del Valentino – is the first residence of Emmanuel Philibert in 1564, after moving the House of Savoy to Turin. The existing home was too small, and improvements and additions began immediately. Today, the palace is only open the first three Saturdays of each month. Make reservations.
Piazza Castello (Square of the Castle)
At one time, this was the center of the kingdom. Residences and governmental buildings were all near this square.
- Palazzo Madama – Is the oldest (in age) of the residences. The back wall, complete with turrets, was part of the Roman walls from the first century B.C. The other three facade walls date from the 1400s. The Duchess of Savoy chooses the palace as her residence in 1637. She and a later duchess redo the interiors from top to bottom. Today, the building is home to the Museum of Ancient Art. It is the House of Savoy’s collection of paintings, statues, and decorative art, dating from the 14th to the 18th century.
- Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace of Turin)– the Regent, Christina Maria, wants a new palace for her son when he returns from war. In 1645 she commanded the building of the Palazzo Reale. The Neoclassical style comes about during a 1760 renovation and will remain as the Royal Palace until 1773. Victor Emmanuel II moved here in 1861. This residence is the first palace of the Kingdom of Italy. Today, it houses The Royal Museums of Turin. These include the Royal Palace itself with the Armory, library, and Gardens.
Other Parts of the Palace
- Galleria Sabauda – is in the “newer” wing of the palace dating from 1832. Today, it is home to the Savoy Gallery, one of the top art collections in Italy. More than 700 works are dating from the 13th to the 20th century. There are works by Italian and European artists. The highlights are the works by the Flemish and Dutch school. The Savoy Gallery occupies the top floors of the Galleria. On the ground floor is the Museum of Antiquities.
- Palazzo della Prefettura – Is a newer addition to the Royal Palace, running to the left of the Palazzo Madama. Initially, the Palazzo delle Segreterie (palace of the State Secretaries) also offers an arcade between the castle and theater. Dating from 1740, it has always been an administrative site. The Province of Turin purchases the building in 1885. To this day, it houses the offices of the prefecture. It is not open to the public.
- Palazzo Chiablese – is on Piazza San Giovanni facing the Chapel of the Shroud. It is part of the Royal Palace. As an extension of the palace, it was the home Savoy family members who were not the Duke. When not in use as a residence, it became offices for the court. During the Napoleonic occupation, the building was the seat of the provisional government of France. It suffers considerable damage during WWII and passes to the state. Today it is home to a collection of cultural items honoring the history of Piedmont. Hours vary.
The Shroud of Turin
- Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist. – Also known as The Turin Duomo, it is the city’s cathedral and dates from 1498. They build it on the site of three previous chapels. In 1563, they tore down the Apse. In its place, they create a magnificent Baroque chapel for a religious artifact owned by, you guessed it, the Savoys. It is the Holy Shroud or the Shroud of Turin. The family will hold it until 1983 when they gift it to Pope John Paul II and the Catholic Church. As far as seeing the Shroud, it is fragile and is in a climate-controlled room within the cathedral complex. It was last visible to the public in 2015.
- Chapel of the Holy Shroud – is a Baroque-style Roman Catholic chapel that connects to the Royal Palace. The Savoy family builds the chapel in 1694 to house their religious item, the Shroud of Turin (Sindone di Torino.) The chapel suffers considerable damage from a fire in the 1990s. It finally reopened in 2018. The Shroud is not on display due to its fragile state.
Nearby
Palazzo Carignano – Construction began in 1679. The Palazzo was the birthplace of Marie Thérèse, who would become a friend of Marie Antoinette and pay for it. It was the birthplace of Charles Emmanuel, Prince of Carignano, in 1770, and Victor Emmanuel II in 1820.
When the Duke moved to new quarters in 1848, it becomes the House of Deputies of the Subalpine Parliament. It remains the seat of parliament until 1861 when the Unified Kingdom of Italy needs more space.
Today the palace is home to two museums. The Apartments of the Princes of Carignano became accessible to the public in 2011. They are on the ground floor. On the Noble (main reception) Floor is the National Museum of the Italian Risorgimento.
- Villa della Regina – Dating from 1615, was initially built for the Prince-Cardinal of Savoy. It was a private villa with its own vineyard. It will pass from family member to member but is never the Royal Palace. Much of the current décor dates from the 1700s. It has excellent views of the city. It is open every day but Monday.
- Castello di Rivoli – Is one of the older buildings. The castle dates from the 9th–10th centuries. It comes into the House of Savoy’s ownership in 1159. It serves more as an administrative location than a residence. Over the years, it houses the senior executive council and is the first place the Shroud of Turin goes on public display. Today the building houses the Museum of Contemporary Art.
Should See Sites of Turin
Near the Piazza Castello area
- Palatine Towers – are the most impressive structure remaining from the Romans. They date from the first century A.D. The city of Augusta Taurinorum was vital to the Romans. They had a colony here from probably the 9th century B.C. Why? Because major routes (valleys) through the Alps to modern-day France and Spain began here. In reverse, the Gaulic and Celtic warriors would be arriving via these valleys.
- The Parco Archeologico is small but exciting. In addition to the Palatine Towers, marking the northern gate to the city, there are other sites within walking distance. Passing through the gates from the outside, you enter the Piazza Cesare Augusto. Here you can see parts of the original main street. Walk to the end of the stone street. To your left, you will see the bell tower to the cathedral.
- To the left of the bell tower is a segment of a Roman Theater (Area Archeologica del Teatro Romano.) This site is part of the Archeological Museum in the Galleria Sabauda, the “new wing” of the palace.
In the Piazza Castello
- Royal Church of San Lorenzo – On the Piazza Castello, at the left end of the Royal Palace fence, is a Savoy built church to St Lawrence. Just to see the dome from inside, this church, dating from 1687, is worth a peek
- Galleria Subalpina. – Just off the S.W. corner of the Piazza Castello is a beautiful step back into Turin of 1874. This Renaissance Revival-style building contains an indoor galleria. Here, there is an attractive shopping area, with shops, Turin’s oldest movie theater, and historic cafes. It makes a great shortcut to Palazzo Carignano. If you are in Turin in December, walk through the Galleria to see the Christmas lights.
Near By
North
Porta Palazzo – Is a large city market. It is one block north and one block west of the Pallentine Towers. Unlike many markets, this one includes four separate buildings in a quadrangle. In between these buildings is a gauntlet of vendors selling “stuff.” It is worth winding your way through to reach the building and what is inside. Two of the buildings look similar. They date from 1836. One of them is predominantly seafood and fish. The other is groceries (non-edible items.) Then there is one that resembles something out of the 1950s with green class. This building is a mall. The fourth building is the one you want.
With a frame of ironwork and glass, this market is perfect for a progressive lunch. Dating from 1916, it has a large “ancient” clock over the main entrance. Here you will find butchers, produce vendors, cheese, some baked goods, everything you need to snack on while you stroll.
Santuario della Consolata – is an eclectic collection of architecture that somehow comes together in a beautiful church. There are portions of an ancient Roman wall (1st century B.C.) and a Romanesque bell-tower (929 AD.) Throw in a set of baroque domes (the 1600s) entrances from the 1800s, and you start to get the picture. Several of the citie’s saints are resting here.
East
Mola Antonelliana – gets its name from the architect who built this large (mola) structure. It is the architectural symbol of the city and easy to spot in the skyline. Initially, it was going to be a synagogue. But Antonelli’s ambitions (and budget) spin out of control, going higher than the Jewish community could pay. So they cancel the contract.
The city, with a large unfinished building defining its skyline, finishes the project in 1889. Today, it is the National Cinema Museum. Make sure to take the Willie Wonka-esque elevator to the center of the dome for an unbeatable lookout point.
South
Piazza San Marco – is three blocks south of the Piazza Castello along the Via Roma. This Baroque-style square dates from the 16th century and is a favorite meeting place for locals. It is the home to Stratta Chocolates, one of the oldest confectionaries in the city.
Behind the two churches at the south end is Piazza CLN. The two fountains represent the Po and Dora Riparia rivers.
From here, you can see the railroad station further along Via Roma. Via Roma is where you will find many of Turin’s higher-end boutiques.
Turin Museums
Museo Pietro Micca – is a museum depicting the 1706 Seige of Turin during the Spanish Succession War. 44,000 French soldiers were surrounding the Turin citadel with only 10,500 Savoy soldiers inside. The assault goes on for more than 100 days and ends with the French in retreat. The museum also offers access to several miles of tunnels (galleries) that were part of the Citadel’s defense.
Museum of the Resistance – offers a multimedia presentation of everyday life during the war, the German occupation, the Italian Resistance, and life after the war. The displays include sounds and the voices of witnesses from that time.
Museo Egizio – is an archaeological museum specializing in Egyptian archaeology and anthropology. After oriental art, you would probably not expect to find Egyptian art in Turin either. And yet, it is home to one of the largest collections of Egyptian antiquities. With more than 30,000 artifacts, it ranks as the sixth-largest Egyptian collection in the world.
Museo della Sindone– is an approximately 10-minute drive from the chapel of the Shroud. The museum has information on and a replica of the Shroud.
Museo D’arte Orientale (M.A.O.) – sits in a 1587 Baroque stucco mansion. Here, a collection of more than 2,000 pieces of art from the Orient is on display. It is one of the largest groups of its kind in Italy.
Further Out of Turin central
The Lingotto (Fiat) building is in an industrial area of the city with an incredible renaissance. The building, dating from 1923, was unusual as it was a car factory five stories high. They would feed raw materials on the ground floor. The assembly took place as the cars would ascend upward through the building. On the roof, the new vehicles go for a spin on the test track running the length of the building.
The factory and much of the neighborhood shut down in 1982. Forward-thinking city-planners reconfigure it into a modern complex, with theaters, convention space, a mall, and a hotel. There is even a department of the local university. You can still see the test track and walk the circular drive down from the roof.
Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile – Is a collection of over 200, predominately vintage, cars from Italy and seven other countries. There are even a 1937 Packard and a 1904 Oldsmobile. For car fans, it is a great find. It is five minutes drive from the Fiat building.
Parco del Valentino has several styles of architecture to view. There is the grandiose Savoy Residence Castello del Valentino, but the park has other treasures. Tucked away at the south end of the park is Borgo Medievale Torino.
.This Medieval Castle and village was part of the 1884 Turin Expo. It is an excellent copy of a 15th-century castle.
Outside Turin City Limits
East
- Basilica of Superga – is another Savoy family structure. The legend goes that during the Spanish Succession war, the Duke of Savoy, praying for victory, promises a church. The church, dating from 1731, sits on the top of Superga Hill with commanding views of the city and mountains. Today, it is the resting place of a majority of the Savoy family. Exceptions are two kings in Rome’s Pantheon and those buried in Savoy before the church’s construction.
North
- Castello di Venaria – is one of the largest palaces in the world. The buildings cover more than 861,000 square feet. It dated to 1675 when the Duke needed a small hunting lodge. Venatio Regia means “Royal Hunt.” Later they would enlarge it to become the luxurious residence it is today. The French seize it during the Napoleonic wars but do not use it. After the battle, the House of Savoy abandons it. The Italian military occasionally uses it for maneuvers, but it mainly sits empty for the next 150 years. In 1978, it underwent the most massive restoration project in European history. They restore the monumental architecture and Baroque interiors, the chapel of St. Uberto, the stables, and extensive gardens.
- Castello de La Mandria – Built during the creation of the Palace of Venaria in 1675, it was initially for breeding thoroughbred horses. In the 1800s, Victor Emmanuel II converts it into a residence. It is soon his favorite for getting away from king duties. The Royal Apartments contain 20 rooms that show a glimpse into the king’s tastes. The adjacent grounds have hiking trails and several of the original decorations of the gardens. Opening days vary, so check before.
- Castello Ducale di Agliè – Dating from the 1100s, it was originally a residence for the counts of San Martino. In the 1600s, the current Count turns it into an elegant home. Around 1706, during the French invasion, the castle suffers severe damage. In 1765, the Savoy family acquired it and renovated it into an elegant summer residence. It remains in the family for more than 150 years. The castle has over 300 rooms, containing furniture from several periods and eclectic collections. A park with greenhouses surrounds the castle.
South
- Castello di Moncalieri – begins as a fortress around 1100 A.D. on a hill, south of Turin. In the mid-15th century, they turn it into a residence. In 1798, it was occupied by the French as Napoleon swarms across Europe. After returning to the House of Savoy, it will be a residence for young princes. Later for Queen Mothers. Currently, the castle is only open for special events.
- Palazzina di Stupinigi – The Duke of Savoy acquires the land in 1563 after moving the capital to Turin. The property sits until 1729, when King Victor Amadeus II orders a new hunting lodge on the site. The next two kings extend the original building. The current structure has 137 rooms and 17 galleries, covering more than 334,000 square feet. Not only for hunting parties, but the palace also becomes the preferred building for celebrations and weddings. It is the most pretentious property they own. Today the palace is home to the Museo di Arte e Ammobiliamento. The museum shows the furnishings and art of several of the Savoia residences, including Stupinigi.
Palazzina di Stupinigi is massive.
A Little Further South
- Castello e Parco di Racconigi – Records mention a castle here from 1000 A.D. The Margraves of Saluzzo have a court here in the 1200s. Sometime in the 1500s, the Savoy family acquires it. In 1630, the Duke gave it to his nephew, the Prince of Carignano, creating the Savoy-Carignano line. It is a typical castle, square with a moat, and four corner towers. It remains in the family until 1946 and becomes the favorite holiday residence. The home has a considerable amount of the original furnishings and art. Open most days except Monday.
- Royal Castle of Pollenzo. – In 1847, the Savoy king ordered a new castle to replace the medieval and fourteenth-century castle in Pollenzo. Unfortunately, this means demolition instead of adding on. The good news is he creates a proper farm with vineyards and wine cellars. The wine-making techniques he experiments with then are still in use in modern times. Today, the castle is the private property of the University of Gastronomic Sciences and the Wine Bank. The church of San Vittore, also built in the 1840s, is adjacent to the castle.
- Castello di Govone – sits at the top of the village where a medieval fortress used to stand. The current castle dates from somewhere near the middle of the 1700s. The Savoy family acquired it in 1792. When the family re-acquires their properties after Napoleon’s visit, they restore the castle. It becomes a summer residence due to its hilltop location. Today, the villa is a city hall for the town of Gavone on weekdays. It is open on weekends for tours.
Other UNESCO Sites
- UNESCO-The Vineyard Landscape of Piedmont: Langhe-Roero and Monferrato – has five distinct wine-growing areas and the castle, Castello di Grinzane Cavour. The region has been growing wines by hand for hundreds of years. Many of the more than 50 D.O.C. wines of Piedmont come from this area. To say you need at least a day in this region is an understatement. Include lunch, hopefully with white truffles from nearby Alba.
Far South
- Castello di Casotto – began as a Carthusian monastery in the 11th century. Like many buildings of that time, with each fire, it receives a renovation in the current style. Napoleon dissolves the religious order. In 1837, the Savoy King bought it for a hunting lodge and summer royal residence. King Umberto I sells it in 1881 to private individuals. As of 2018, the complex is undergoing a renovation. Guestimates of when it will reopen is 2021. The setting, in a valley surrounded by trees, is lovely. In the winter, you can catch glimpses through the trees from the main road.
Torino Summary
Torino / Turin has so much to offer. UNESCO World Heritage sites, fascinating history, and an embarrassment of food and beverage. Two hours from Milan and Genoa, it is in a prime location to mix and match a great Italian vacation.
Due to its location, not far from the Alps, Torino does not get blistering summer temperatures. The average daytime high in June through September are in the 70s°F. December through February, your daytime highs are below 40 but not by much. May is a rainy month with April not too far behind. August and October are also “rainier” months with an average of three inches for the month.
Plan on a day for the Savoy Residences. Another day for tasting and drinking and the third day for everything else. Start planning.