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Peloponnese Cuisine Greek Beers. Greek Spirits.
The Peloponnese has numerous hilly and mountainous areas, with plains and valleys in between.
The mountains run somewhat north to south, splitting the wine regions into east and west.
To the east are the Nemea and Mantinia regions near Nauplio. Further south is the Monemvasia region.
On the west, you have the regions of Achala and Elis in the north. The smaller region of Messinia is to the south.
The Peloponnese enjoys a mild Mediterranean climate with warm sea breezes near the coast. In the mountains, some vineyards are more than 2000 feet above sea level and experience cold mountain air. These two climates produce several sub-climates, ripe for growing grapes.
Homer’s name for the area is Ampeloessa, (full of vines). There is evidence of winemaking going back as far as 4000 years ago. We know from their writings that Aristotle and Theophrastus were fans of the wine from Arcadia.
Excavations at ancient sites such as Sparta and Olympia point to the presence of wine.
The Middle Ages
We know more about the Middle Ages and Peloponnese winemaking. The Venetians were exporting the sweet wines of Malvasia from the port of Monemvasia in the south.
The Peloponnese wines were reaching as far as England before the Ottomans took control in the 16th Century. Alcohol was not part of their religion. They began tearing out vineyards or replacing wine grapes with eating grapes and those for raisins. This destruction would last until the Ottoman’s expulsion in 1828.
The Peloponnese slowly begins replanting and rejuvenating their wine industry. It grows and does well, providing good wines that they consume locally.
When the Germans arrive in the Peloponnese in the 1940s, they like the wines very much. To keep the Germans from drinking their wines, they begin pouring pine resin in the bottles. It does stop the Germans from drinking the wine. Unfortunately, it also gives Greek wines a terrible reputation worldwide for their wines. It will be decades before they can fix it.
Today’s wine industry stems from the end of World War II. Through tremendous work, the Peloponnese is now one of the most prominent wine regions in Greece.
Seven of Greece’s 29 P.D.O. Wine appellations are in the Peloponnese. Also, 17 regional areas are growing a wide range of Greek grape varieties. They also produce some international grapes, including Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The Peloponnese Wine Grapes
Of the ten Greek grape varieties they are currently growing, eight of them are in P.D.O. Status appellations.
The grapes that are growing in P.D.O. Regions of the Peloponnese are:
White Grapes
P.D.O. Mantinia – appellation is in the Arcadia region at an altitude of over 700 feet. They produce dry white wines.
Grape Varieties:
- Moschofilero
- Asproudes
P.D.O. Patras is one of four P.D.O. Appellations in the Achaia region. The region stretches over semi-mountainous and mountainous terrain. They produce dry, semi-dry, and semi-sweet white wines.
Grape Variety:
- Rhoditis
P.D.O. Muscat of Patras – is another appellation in Achaia. Some of the grapes come from private vineyards where lower yield, higher quality grapes grow. They make sweet (vin naturellement doux) and natural sweet (vin doux naturel-vin de liqueur) white wines.
Grape Variety:
- White Muscat
P.D.O. Muscat of Rio Patras – is the last of the Achaia appellations producing white wines. Similar to Muscat of Patras, they have sweet wines from low yield, high-quality vineyards. Many believe these to be the best sweet wines in Greece.Grape Variety:
- White Muscat
P.D.O. Monemvassia-Malvasia – is in the southeast of Laconia. This area is a revival of the most famous wine from the middle Ages, Malvasia. They sun-dry the grapes to increase the sugar. Barrel aging takes a minimum of two years or longer. The wine must contain a minimum of 51% Monemvassia grapes. The wines are sweet whites.
Grape Varieties:
- Monemvassia
- Assyrtiko,
- Asproudes,
- Kydonitsa
Red Grapes
P.D.O. Nemea – is in two regions, the larger part being in south-central Corinthia and the other part in Argolis. This wine has the nickname “Hercules’s blood” and has ties to the legend of Hercules. They produce sweet, semi-sweet, and dry red wines.
Grape Variety:
- Agiorgitiko
P.D.O. Mavrodaphne of Patras – are sweet red wines from the Patras region. The wines must barrel-age for a minimum of one year. Two years to become a reserve. The Grand Reserve requires seven years of maturation with a minimum of three years in the barrel.
Grape Varieties:
- Mavrodaphne,
- Black Corinth
A glass of red wine is good for the heart.
P.G.I. Wines
There are several P.G.I. Status wine appellations as well. This status applies to all the local wines from the area.
- Achaia.
- Arcadia,
- Argolis.
- Corinthia,
- Ilia
- Laconia,
- Messinia,
There are three P.G.I. Regions:
- Klimenti (Corinthia),
- Tegea (Arcadia).
- Trifyllia & PGI Pylia (Messinia).
Are these all the grapes they grow in the Peloponnese or all the regions? No. But these should be enough to keep you busy for an afternoon or three.
Peloponnese Wine Regions and Wineries
Corinth
- The region, in the northeast and closest to the mainland, produces many excellent wines, including part of the P.D.O. Nemea appellation.
- Lafazanis Winery – is the first winery you come across when driving from Corinth towards Nemea. They offer dry and sweer red and white wines. There is also a rose and a retsina, which may surprise you.
- Ktima Anagennisi – near ancient Nemea is a small vineyard specializing in dry and sweet red wines. They also offer white and rose.
- Palivos Estate – produces several award-winning reds and whites. They also have roses, one which is a semi-sparking wine.
- Domaine Repanis – is just outside Nemea. The winery includes a small museum with traditional vineyard tools. They have a wide selection of whites, a few reds, and a rose.
- Lantides Winery – has several award-winning reds as well as white and rose.
- Aivalis Family Winery – has some tasty red wines which they export. There are also whites and a rose.
- Nemeion Estate – is producing approximately twelve award-winning whites, reds, and roses.
- Gaia Wines – is a lovely way to finish the day. Besides the winery near Nemea, they also have one on Santorini. They produce close to ten different white and red wines.
Honorable Mention
- Oinodos Wines – I know they exist; I like their wines at restaurants and wine bars. But I have never been able to find the winery itself. They make some superb white wines with Greek grapes. They also have a red and a rose.
- Srofilia Wines – is another wine I enjoy but cannot find a winery. They also have vineyards in Northern Greece. If you see it at a wine bar, try it.
Argolis
Due south of the Corinth region shares a similar climate and also includes part of the P.D.O. Nemea appellation.
- Papantonis Winery – is in the south end of Argos town. This vineyard is quality over quantity in growing Agiorgitiko and Roditis grapes. It is very hands-on, and the results are lovely.
- Domaine Skouras – is one of my favorites, and I usually plan a lunch here of heavy meze and their wines. It is 15 minutes south of Nemea just across the Argolis line.
All of these vineyards can be part of a day trip to see Corinth, Mycenae, or Nauplio. Nauplio makes an excellent base for exploring this area.
Arkadia
The “center” of the peninsula also includes some coastal areas along the east. It is home to the P.D.O. Mantinia zone.
Domaine Spiropoulos – is at the north end of the region. They produce lovely whites, reds, rose, and sparkling wine. They also have a vineyard near Ancient Nemea with different wines.
Kalogris Organic Winery – (in Greek) is an organic winery that is more than 30 years old. It occupies a family farm that has been in the same family for 150 years. The wines are certified organic. The winery is 15 minutes west of Domaine Spiropoulos.
Boutari Mantinia Winery – is the “Mondavi” of Greece, but I prefer their wines over other larger wineries. They have wineries in the most important Greek regions. In Arkadia, they produce around fifteen wines, the majority of them are white, but there are reds and rose as well. They are a ten-minute drive from Kalogris in the direction of Tripoli.
Troupis Winery – is less than five minutes drive from Boutari. They offer a fun selection of white wines, a few reds, and a rose.
Bosinakis Winery – is an approximately 20-minutes drive from Troupis and is southeast of Tripoli. This small winery is under the leadership of a charming couple. I suspect several employees are relatives. It is not set up for tour buses – hallelujah. Contact them for a visit.
Tselepos Winery – is a further 20 minutes-drive south. Smack dab in the P.D.O. Mantinia appellation, they have been producing award-winning wines for years. Visits by appointment only.
Tselepos Winery is less than ten minutes’ drive from the ruins of the ancient Greek city of Tegea. Tripoli Greece makes an excellent base for exploring this area.
Laconia
Lying at the southeast part of the peninsula and is home to the P.D.O. Monemvassia-Malvasia appellation. The vineyards here plant predominately Greek varieties of grapes.
- Estate Theodorakakos – is approximately a 20-minutes drive south of Sparta (Sparti). This organic winery has several award-winning whites and roses. Their reds are coming on strong.
- Monemvasia Winery – is approximately 90 minutes southwest of Sparta and 20 minutes west of Monemvasia. The winery, borrowing the type of grapes and technologies from olden times, began bottling in the early 2000s. Since that time, they have already been the proud recipients of over 100 awards. They have over ten wines, and although the white Malvasia is popular, check out the reds and rose.
Sparta is closer to the UNESCO site of Mystra and other ancient sites of Sparta. The beach resort area of Gythio is almost equal distance from both. I prefer staying in secluded Monemvasia, the Gibraltar of Greece.
Messinia
Sitting at a relatively low altitude, in the southwest, its fertile ground and mild climate lend to grape growing.
- Inomessiniaki Winery – is approximately 20 minutes west of Kalamata. They produce an international line of wines which they call Anima. I prefer their FARE line as it focuses on the Greek grapes that grow well in this area. They do blend some of the Fare with international grapes. You can visit the winery with a prior reservation or the retail shop in Kalamata.
Ilia
The vineyards in this area reach back to the times of ancient Olympia. Nearby ancient harbors also made the exporting of the local wines. You will find Refosco grapes, an import from Italy, again pointing to the trading in this area. The P.G.I. of Pissatida and Ilia produce white, rosé, and red wines.
- Mercouri Estate (in Greek) – is just outside Katakolo. A lovely family runs this estate with some delicious wines. With previous arrangements, they can provide local food as well.
- Ktima Brintziki – is an organic winery focusing on the indigenous varieties of grapes that thrive in Ancient Olympia. They have several whites, a few reds, and a rose.
- Stavropoulos Estate – is between Olympia and Pyrgos. Using organic grapes, they focus on doing a few wines well.
- Olympia Land Estate – is just north of Ancient Olympia. They specialize in white wines but also have a red. They also have an excellent dessert wine.
- Markogianni Winery (in Greek) – is about five minutes east of the village of Gryllos, or 30 minutes south of Olympia. They are a quality over quantity producer, making only four wines and two Tsipouro. Reservations are required. I suggest incorporating it with a trip to the UNESCO site at Bassae.
Achaia
Not content with one P.D.O. Appellation, Achaia has four. The P.D.O. Patra is a dry white wine, while the other three appellations produce sweeter or fruity wines. These include the Muscat of Patras, Muscat of Rio Patras, and the one red wine, Mavrodaphne of Patras.
- Tetramythos Winery – is an hour’s drive east of Patras. I recommend stopping on your way to/from Patras. On the hillside with views of the Gulf of Corinth, it is a lovely setting for wine tasting. They have several award-winning reds and whites.
- Achaia Clauss Winery – is in a castle dating from the 1800s. They produce several award-winning reds and whites, and also a rose.
- Sant’ Or Winery – is approximately 50 minutes’ drive south of Patras and requires reservations. The good news, you can find this wine in many places in Patras. They are also quality over quantity producers offering two whites, a red, and a rose.
- Gidiaris Winery (in Greek)- is a wine you need to taste at a wine (caves) store or restaurant. I have not been able to find the winery itself. They produce two dry whites, a red and a rose.
Peloponnese Wine Summary.
Some of the wineries are open year-round to guests, and few accept guests without a reservation. Those receiving guests are usually doing so in April through September. The wineries of the Peloponnese are not the shopping mall that Napa has become, yet. I would check the websites above (orange links) and make a reservation, especially for groups, or during the offseason.
Come, taste wine with an incredible history. Peloponnese wine has been flowing for 4000 years. Sample wines from grapes you cannot experience anywhere else in the world.
If you were trying to do all the wineries of the Peloponnese, I would recommend a week.
Also, you will want to stop and see the six UNESCO World Heritage sites on the peninsula.
These include Olympia, Mycenae, and the Apollo Temple at Bassae.
I also recommend a driver and an incredibly healthy liver.
Whatever you do, when on the peninsula, try the Peloponnese wine.