BACK TO GREEK WINE
Table of Contents:
GRAPES
P.D.O. and P.G.I. WINES
RETSINA
OTHER CENTRAL WINES.
Wines of Greece Greek Beers. Greek Spirits.
“Officially,” the Central Greece Wine Region also consists of Attica (around Athens in the south) and Thessaly to the north.
As it covers such a large area, I am breaking it up into three regions.
This section will focus on the administrative region of Central Greece and its wine.
The region has three distinct climates, including the Mediterranian of the east and the hot continental of the central valleys. Here the grapes ripen quickly, producing sweet and medium wines. In the colder mountain climate, ripening takes longer, retaining the acidity in the grapes and making excellent dry wines.
Where do we start with Central Greek Wines?
How about with the Greek god of wine, Dionysus? But all Greek gods are born on Mount Olympus. Well, that depends on who you ask. Also, that seems to apply more to kids who had two Greek gods as parents.
Dionysus was the son of Zeus, but his mother was the Theban princess Semele. He was the only god with a mortal parent.
And what does this have to do with Central Greece? Some say his birthplace is Thebes.
We do know they have been producing wine in the region for thousands of years.
After WWII, Greece, along with several European countries, race to replace the vineyards and wine destroyed in the war.
Central Greece produces more than 52 million gallons of wine each year. And with mass production, you get table wine. The good news, many vintners in the area, are now experimenting with different styles of grapes, making better wines.
The Central Greece Wine Grapes.
The most popular grapes from the Central Greece wine region are:
Central Greece Whites.
- Savatiano – is a Greek white wine grape they use primarily in the wine Retsina. It is most prevalent throughout central Greece due to its high tolerance to drought.
- Malagousia – now grows all over Greece. They use the white wine grape in blends and as a single varietal. The grape produces medium alcohol content, and a heady nose of flowers, fresh herbs, and citrus fruits. You will find it in dry wines, and also sweet wines.
- Assyrtiko – while indigenous to Santorini, now grows many places throughout Greece. High in acidic levels, they use it in Central Greece for blending with Savatiano.
- Athiri – comes from the island of Rhodes, but you can also find small patches of it in Central Greece. They combine Athiri (or Athiri Aspro) with Assyrtiko to make Retsina.
Central Greece Reds.
Central Greece is between Attica in the south, which is predominantly white wine grapes due to the heat. Thessaly, which it shares a border with to the north, has the colder, mountainous terrain perfect for red wine grapes. You will find a few red wines from Central.
- Agiorgitiko (Fruit-of-Dionysus) – is a prevalent red wine grape in Greece. They use it in everything from rosé to full reds. Quite often, they use it to obtain reds with full-body and tannins and medium acidity.
- Xinomavro – is more of a Thessaly and Macedonia grape, but you will find some in the hills north of Lamia. It produces firm tannins, a nice acidity, and an elegant feel.
- Vradiano – is an old world red wine grape that survives the Phylloxera and falling from favor. A local vintner is responsible for almost single-handily saving it from extinction. Today they often mix it with Merlot or Syrah.
The good news, recent interest in Central Greece wines is helping to reintroduce other indigenous grapes to the local wines. Local wines complement local cuisine.
You need to sample Central Greece wines now and go back in ten years to see where they are.
P.D.O. Wines of Central Greece.
Currently, there are no P.D.O. Wines from the Central area of the Central Greece wine region. But looking where they were, and where they are now, I do not think that will last forever.
Discover the wines of Central Greece now so you can say you remember when.
P.G. I. Wines of Central Greece.
The P.G.I. (Protected Geographical Indication) wines are a little more complicated. In Central Greece, you have the P.G.I. Central Greece, which is a regional label covering a large area.
Going one level deeper, you have P.G.I. District wines. These are when the wine district matches a geographical region.
Central Greece has one, P.G.I. Evia.
Area P.G.I.s.
These are smaller areas and have additional rules to follow. Many are a result of revisions in 2009-10.
- Karystos P.G.I. – is on the island of Evia at the southern end. The area’s wine history goes back hundreds of years. The grapes are varieties that thrive in the climate of the Aegean Sea. The wineries in the region produce dry to sweet white, rose, and red wines.
- Lilantio Pedio P.G.I. – is also on the island of Evia, in the central-western region near the town of Chalkida (Chalcis.) Mount Dirfys creates a different terroir providing an area ripe for growing the Savvatiano grape. They now produce dry to sweet white, rose, and red wines.
- Opountia Lokrida P.G.I. – stretches along the southeastern part of Fthiotida. It includes the area of ancient Opous, one of the nine cities of the area mentioned by Homer. The region produces dry white, rose, and red wines.
- Parnassos P.G.I. – stretches between the northeastern foothills of Mount Parnassos, to the foothills of Mount Kallidromo. Their Mavroudi red variety is the new name of the Arahovitiko Black. Their red rose and white wines are dry.
- Ritsona P.G.I. – although on the mainland, is part of the island of Evia district. A traditional area one famous for only white wines, they now produce dry to sweet reds and whites. Also medium roses.
- Greek Wine Cellars
- Thebes P.G.I. – also includes the towns of Schimatari, Thespies, Thisvi, Tanagra, and Vagia. Several famous wines are coming from this area ranging from dry to sweet.
- I.N.O. Wine
- Valley of Atalanti P.G.I. – is in the space between Central Greece and Thessaly. It includes the towns of Atalanti, Kalapodi, and Megaplatanos. You will find dry white and red wines.
Higher Up.
The terrain and cooler temperatures are essential to red wines as well.
- Martino P.G.I. – sits on the mainland northwest of Evia and Chalkida. Stretching from Martino to Larymna, the vineyards must be at altitudes between 500 and 1000 feet. You will find dry white, rose, and red wines.
- No wineries currently open to the public.
- Slopes of Kitherona P.G.I., – also comprises parts of two districts. Planting is at a height of over 1000 feet. Wines include dry to sweet reds and whites and medium roses.
- No wineries currently open to the public.
- Slopes of Knimida P.G.I. – stretched from the Atalanti municipality to the Elatia, and Dafnousa municipality. Grapes must be at an elevation of 500 to 1000 feet. They produce dry white and red wines.
- See Valley of Atalanti and Opountia Lokrida
- Slopes of Parnitha P.G.I. – covering the areas of Pyli, Skourta, and Stefani sit at an elevation of more than 900 feet. This area only produces a dry white wine.
- No wineries currently open to the public.
Is this a menu of all the wineries in Central Greece? Hardly. The list changes weekly. Are these the best wineries? That depends on what you think.
Wines of Traditional Appellation.
But it’s still not confusing enough, so they add another category., Traditional Appellation.
Verdea Traditional Designation of Zakynthos – is a unique wine that they can only produce in Zakynthos.
Then they add all types of Retsina to Traditional Designation.
It’s still not confusing enough, so the Verdea also falls under the category of P.G.I. District Wines of Greece.
Then they add some, but not all, of the retsina wines to this category. These include the Attiki, Viotia, and Evia Retsina.
The scary thing is I could go even further, but it would only lead to more confusion.
In short, try the wines of Central Greece.
The Evil Retsina.
Retsina has a bad reputation, and for a good reason.
In ancient Greece, they would add pine resin to create an airtight seal in the clay wine jugs (amphorae.) They combine this during the fermentation and the locals like the taste in the resultant wine.
In World War II, the Nazis occupying Greece were drinking all the local wine. To slow them down, the Greeks up the resin amount in the wine. It was like drinking a floor cleaner. But it works, the Germans stopped drinking it.
However, so did other Europeans and Americans during the liberation of Greece. They come home with low opinions of Greek wine. How bad is it? It keeps Greece out of the European Wine Union for many years.
After the war, they continue to make it because it gives cheap wine some flavor. Along with fruit wines and sweet German wines, it began showing up at college parties. It was cheap. The upside is it would taste pretty much the same coming back up.
Not Your Father’s Bad Greek Wine.
In the last twenty years, something has been changing. Instead of making it as cheaply as possible, winemakers are giving it a complete overhaul.
They are experimenting with different grape varieties, including Roditis and Assyrtiko, and lowering the quantities of resin.
The result is a whole new wine with the same name.
However, beware! They still make the old stuff as well. Make sure your waiter or bartender understands this is not what you are here to taste.
Other Central Greece Wines.
Savatiano.
As they start using other wines to make Retsina, they also begin experimenting with Savatiano.
It turns out this grape, dating back to the times of Aristotle, can produce some pretty good wine.
Although they grow more of it in the Attica region, you can find local vintages in Central Greece.
Mavroudi.
For many years, there was the Black Wine of Arachova. This wine is a local red wine famous in the area of Arachova near Delphi.
The Mavro (black) grape produces a very dark red wine in color. It creates firm tannins, adding a slight bitterness to the wine. The taste is similar to stewed-fruit. There is also an herbal component that gives it a medicinal finish.
Central Greece Wine Summary
The Greek wine world is centuries ahead of the United States in wine production. Well, for that matter, it is ahead of most of Europe and the Western Hemisphere.
But where they lead in production, the fail at tooting their own horn. So many people visit Greece without tasting the wine, and much too little reaches the shores of America.
If you are old enough to remember the Napa Valley of the 1970s and early 80s, you may have a time warp.
Once you get outside of Athens, you come to two-lane roads and small signs if there is a sign at all.
There are no tour buses lined up outside. There are no bus parking lots. Quite often, it is a family member pouring the wine.
HOWEVER, most wineries are not open for random visiting?
What does that mean? I don’t get to taste the wine, or hear the band?
It means to blow a horn, and start celebrating. You have to make reservations.
Life Is a Cabernet Old Chum
Once again, they have not been advertising like their American counterparts.
They go to the vineyard to work, not pour wine for a continuous line of tourists, yet.
You may get to ask questions and not feel like you are on a conveyor line, for now.
Check the winery websites. Make a reservation. Get to the Central Greece wineries before the mobs descend.
Learn more about Thessaly Wines, Attica Wines.