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September 9, 2018 – Beyond The Islands


WHERE TO?                  THE SENSES.


Nothing But Greek Islands.

Greece does have islands. They have incredible islands. Big, small, mountainous, long, short isles with a host of things to do, or places to do nothing.

Last count there are 6,000 Greek islands spreading through two different seas. The Ionian, separating Greece from Italy, and the Aegean, separating Greece from Turkey. Of the 6,000 islands, only 227 have inhabitants of the humankind.

To a lot of people, Greece is all white and blue.

The Greek Islands also have a great P.R. Team. Even the Queen of Greece got into the act. She chose a photo of Mykonos for the cover of a Greek publicity Brochure back in the 1950s. White buildings, blue trim, you’ve seen similar pictures.

So the Greek islands are great from April to mid-June. This is before what feels like all of Europe and the humidity descends upon them. And they are great mid-September to the end of October when the moisture and masses go back to where they once came.

If you like heat, crowds, and the most expensive hotel rates during the year, Mid-June to mid-September is excellent.

… a little rain must fall. Even in the Greek Islands.

By the beginning of November, the clubs are dark on Mykonos. Most of the jewelers on Santorini have gone back to their shops in Athens. Museums have gone to winter hours (sometimes days), and many of the smaller boutique hotels have shuttered for the winter.

I love the solitude during this time and have had great experiences when it is just me and the locals. But it may take some additional planning as flights and ferries are also on winter schedules. Did you know the Greek Islands have a dark, well dreary side?

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What Else is There to Do?

Athens is an excellent city with thousands of years of history to uncover. Look past the cement buildings of the 1950s post-war boom and concentrate on the history and the rest of the architecture. Don’t just glance at the Acropolis and mark it off your “to-do” list. Spend time, with a licensed guide and see into the cradle of Western Civilization. Then visit the Acropolis museum to see more of its treasures.

The Acropolis Museum with the Acropolis behind it.

I believe you need two days to do the city of Athens justice. The National Archeological Museum is worth half a day just by itself.

You have to have real Greek food in a taverna. And to see the Acropolis lit up at night, magical.

Pictures do not do the Acropolis justice.

 

Day Trips.

From Athens, you can reach several nearby sites that are on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Greece has 18 places on the list, and each one is worth seeing, at least once. You have immersed yourself in the UNESCO site Acropolis, Athens, where Democracy, Philosophy, Speech, Theatre, and Freedom of Expression are born.

Delphi.

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site is the Archaeological Site of Delphi and its museum. The trip is approximately 2.5 hours each way by bus or car. Here, you can see the Temple of Apollo, dating to the 4th-century B.C. This was the home of the legendary oracle. There are also the remains of the sanctuary to Athena Pronaia, a stadium, and theater. The adjacent Delphi Archaeological Museum displays artifacts from the site. Another great museum.

The mystical Oracle was at Delphi.

Mycenae and Epidaurus.

The Archaeological Site of Mycenae was the home of the real Mycenaean people. Also mythical Agamemnon and his not lovely wife, Clytemnestra. Some of the walls still standing date back to more than 1000 B.C.

Nearby is the Sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidaurus, another UNESCO site and home to one of the best theaters in Greece. Performances still take place June – August, and with the near-perfect acoustics, there’s not a bad seat in the house.

The Theater at Epidaurus, still pitch-perfect.

Temple of Poseidon at Sounion.

Although not on the UNESCO World Heritage list, this Doric Temple dating from 440 B.C. is worth seeing. It is from this site, overlooking the Aegean Sea, where mythology says the sea got its name. The drive to and from Sounion is along the Greek Riviera and passes some incredible fish restaurants.

Cape Sounion.

The Peloponnese.

One of Greece’s many hidden gems. I could spend a week here (and have) and only scratch the surface. First, you reach it from Athens by crossing the Corinth Canal and passing by Old Corinth. A town where the Apostle Paul was sending several letters around 50 A.D.

In addition to the already mentioned Mycenae and Epidaurus, there is Nauplion with its Venetian influence.

The archeological sites in Tripoli and Sparta have not been on the receiving end of much needed T.L.C.  but are attractive to the historian.

Mystra, the Byzantine walled city on a hillside offers a great look into Byzantine architecture as well as panoramic views of the valley. It was in use until 1832.

High on a hill is Mystra.

Monemvasia – the Gibraltar of the East, shoots skyward more than 300 feet out of the water. On the top of the plateau are ruins from a medieval fortress.

At the base is a charming medieval town dating from 583 A.D. In 1971, they connect the Peloponnese to the island with a causeway.

The Gibraltar of the East, Monemvasia.

Near Kalamata (of olive fame) you have the impressive fortified castle at Methoni, the castle at Androusa, the remains of Old Navarino Castle and King Nestor’s Palace ruins.

Further north is the UNESCO World Heritage Site Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassae. 

The Greek Islands have temples, but not quite like this one.

The detail on the Temple at Bassae is something to be seen.

Nearby, is another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Archaeological Site of Olympia, home to the original Olympic Games.

The first Olympic Village.

Nature.

There are incredible ravines, gorges, stone bridges, hanging monasteries, and even ghost towns. I don’t have space to cover these must-see sites in this blog. Look for future blogs.

The stone bridge near Karytaina had its first recorded repair in 1439.

Cuisine.

The Peloponnese has its spin on Greek cuisine as well. Besides the calamata olives, there are great oranges from Nauplion. Eggplant from the east coast, and honey from the southwest to name a few. Recipes include local olive oil, lemon, fresh fish, lamb, and the current harvest of vegetables. Sure the Greek Islands have their own cuisine but don’t miss the other Greek cuisines.

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Mainland Greece.

Besides Athens, Sounion, and Delphi already covered, there are other must-try, must-see destinations.

More UNESCO World Heritage sites including the Archaeological Site of Philippi, found in both the history of Macedonian king Philip II (Alexander’s dad) and the Apostle Paul.

Where the Apostle Paul preached to the Philippians.

 

The Archaeological Site of Aigai (modern name Vergina), where they discover the royal tomb of King Philip II.

Philip II’s royal tomb.

 

The magnificent monasteries in the clouds at Meteora.

Alright, the Greek Islands have many monasteries, some up high. But not like this.

Columns of the sky, Monasteries in the clouds, no words describe Meteora.

 

And then there is Thessaloniki. It has 15 UNESCO sites all under the title, Paleochristian and Byzantine Monuments of ThessalonikaYou will not find that on the Greek Islands.

Thessaloniki, UNESCO World Heritage sites, and Greek Cuisine.

 

That alone should be enough to take you north. Then add that Thessaloniki is the culinary capital of Greece. AND there are several award-winning wine regions you can visit during a day trip, what’s not to love?

The Naoussa Wine Region.

 

Beyond the Greek Islands

The Greek Islands are magnificent. They need to be near the top of a “to-do” list.

But there is a whole lot more to Greece than just islands.

The Peloponesse and the mainland have the majority of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Numerous wine regions and local cuisine.

Athens is not just a connecting airport, it’s a gateway.

Why are you waiting?

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Where” Continued on Page T8                     “Senses” Continued on T14

 

 

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