THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
Barcelona is a major cruise hub for the Mediterranian, and yet too few people see it.
Some may see it on an orientation drive to the airport, which I guess is better than nothing.
But buses cannot drive into the old section, the Gothic Quarter. They cannot access the interiors of the Gaudi masterpieces, so what are they taking away?
Here is the sad part. So many people mark it off their to-do list after this awful introduction.
Barcelona is a city deserving of your time.
Barcelona has the Barrio Gótico
The Gothic Quarter has some significant pedestrian streets, leading off La Rambla. But not enough people get off La Rambla.
It is on the curving, twisting side streets where you find the treasures. Stroll Plaça Sant IU or Plaça Reial and start to get a feel for the old section. Visit the cathedral but also see the UNESCO World Heritage site, Palau de la Música Catalana.
Barcelona has Gaudi.
What about the hometown hero? Seeing the Sagrada Familia from outside is nice, but there is a whole new world inside.
In fairness, until 2010, you could not see inside. But today you can, and it will amaze you. How does someone picture this over 100 years ago?
The interior of Gaudi’s masterpiece, Sagrada Familia.
The Works of Gaudi UNESCO designation includes his work on the Nativity façade and Crypt of La Sagrada Familia. It also contains six other Gaudi sites. Parque Güell; Palacio Güell; Casa Mila; Casa Vicens; Gaudí’s Casa Batlló; and the Crypt in Colonia Güell.
I bet you have a lot of Gaudi to see. I will not even mention the other ten+ Gaudi sites, not on the list. But also unique and worth seeing.
A Beautiful Day in the Neighborhoods!
Over a few thousand years, the city has been spreading, and not everything is right next to each other. Sants-Montjuïc, which you pass on the way to the airport, has a full day of sites to see. Few Americans go to the mount.
For art lovers, there is modern art at the Joan Miró Foundation, and the impressive Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya.
For history fans, it has the Archaeology Museum of Catalonia.
Sports fans may enjoy the Museu Olímpic I de l’Esport (and nearby Olympic stadium.)
For fans of architecture, there is the Poble Espanyol de Montjuic, an open-air museum of Spain’s regional architecture.
Plaça de Catalunya area
Many say this is the center of Barcelona. Sitting between Las Ramblas, and the fashionable Passeig De Gracia it is a great meeting place. The University district is nearby to the west.
La Barceloneta and The Old Port
The old harbor area has history, while La Barceloneta, along the coast, offers day and nighttime entertainment.
And there’s a lot more than that. One of my favorite Maritime museums is just across the street.
Barcelona has so much to see.
Barcelona has Many Should See Sites.
Gaudi invents the word gaudy. Despite what some guides may tell you, that British term is from circa 1500. That is several hundred years before Antoni was coloring with a crayon, let alone using an architect scale. Whether gaudy or grande, see his works.
- Hospital de la Santa Creu I Sant Pau – is a masterpiece by architect Lluís Domènech I Montaner. It opens in 1930 and serves until 2009, upon the opening of a new hospital next door. Today it serves as a medical museum and cultural center. It is in the El Guinardó neighborhood, a five-minute drive from La Sagrada Familia.
- La Rambla (Las Ramblas) – is a pedestrian mall, for tourists and pickpockets. This site is one of those places I jump up and down about in my port talks. Be extra vigilant! Within an hour after arrival, the first purse or wallet-free guests return.
Is La Rambla worth seeing?
YES! It begins at the Christopher Columbus Monument at Port Vell (old harbor) where all the cruise ships purge their guests. It stretches for 3/4 of a mile to the Plaça de Catalunya in the center of modern-day Barcelona.
The tree-lined street offers cafes, shops, sidewalk flower stands, and authentic Spanish items from Taiwan. And street performers every 3 feet. It is a large barrel of fish for pick-pockets.
It separates the Gothic Quarter from the historic El Raval neighborhood.
El Raval.
This historic neighborhood is close to the port and became a dumping ground for Immigrants. Today, it still has a diverse immigrant community. It is a minor sightseeing destination but is home to a few should-sees.
- Palau Güell – is part of the UNESCO Works of Gaudi. It sits less than two blocks off La Rambla.
- Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria (Boqueria Market) – The jewel of the El Raval neighborhood is also Barcelona’s first local market. It’s an excellent place for a progressive meal you can buy and eat while you walk.
Gothic Quarter (Barrio Gòtico).
The entire Gothic Quarter is worth seeing, but here are some highlights.
La Rambla Area.
- Plaça Reial – Royal Plaza while a block off Las Rambles, is not that royal. A statue of the current King, Ferdinand VII, was going in the middle. Due to his death in 1933, and the political upheaval that follows, there is no time for statues.
It has points of interest by Gaudi. One of his very first commissions was for the street lamps in this square. A stop in this picturesque plaça will confirm you are in Spain.
Plaça Sant Jaume Area.
- Plaça Sant Jaume – was the central point of the Roman city of Barcino. The Palau de la Generalitat building makes up most of the north wall of this Plaça. It is a great meeting place and location to get your bearings. There is also a tourist office for information on the plaça.
- The Temple of Augustus – sat in the middle of the Roman forum. A two-minute walk to #10 Carrer del Paradís will reward you with four of the temple’s columns.
- Musea d’História de la Ciutat – offers a glimpse of what lies under the Gothic Quarter.
- El Call, Old Jewish Quarter – Although not like it used to be (thank goodness) you can still get a feel for the Jewish Quarter. On Carrer de Marlet (street of the market) you can visit the Sinagoga Mayor de Barcelona, the oldest synagogue in Spain. It is one of only five medieval temples remaining. The two-room building, now a museum, is just over 600 sq ft. When was the original building? They know of renovations in the 1200s. These repairs may not have been the first.
Cathedral Area.
- Ponte del Bisbe – is a pedestrian bridge linking the Palau de la Generalitat to the Canon’s House over Carrer (street) del Bisbe (of the Bishop). This street is between Plaça Sant Jaume and the cathedral. Everyone who goes to Barcelona seems to go home with a picture of this ancient bridge. The catch? It only dates to 1928. It’s the newest construction in this area. But it’s pretty.
- Catedral de la Santa Creu I Santa Eulalia – is a five-minute walk from Plaça Sant Jaume. Parts of the cathedral date from the 10th century but much of it is newer, dating from the 13th century. The cathedral is ornate.
If you feel like it, climb to the roof (3 euro). From the roof, there are up-close views of the spire and across the Gothic Quarter. They require donations to visit the main church between 12:45 – 3:15 pm daily. The cathedral is free to visit before and after this time. As with ALL religious sites, shoulders and knees should have a cover.
- Els Quatre Gats – A five-minute walk from the cathedral is this bar/cafe. It is where Picasso had one of his first showings (1899). It sat empty for several decades, before reopening in 1989 for tourists. I have never seen locals here except the staff. Go for the photo, not the Tapas.
Also in the Gothic Quarter.
- Passeig del Born is at the east end of the Gothic Quarter. Today it is a leisurely street with cafes and shade trees. It began as the site of a medieval jousting (born) field. There is still a medieval charm in some of the architecture. Unfortunately, during the Spanish Inquisition (1478 – 1834), it was also the site of several autos-de-fe. The nearby Jewish Quarter being a prime target for victims.
L’Eixample Neighborhood.
Passeig de la Gracia (Street of the Greeks) runs north from the Plaça de Catalunya. This broad boulevard is home to upscale hotels and shopping. There are several must-see sites in this area.
In addition to two of Gaudi’s works, the street has several other should-see structures.
Illa de la Discòrdia (Block of Discord) – Is the block where you will find the Casa Batllo (Gaudi). The neighborhood holds a collection of 1900 homes by different architects.
- #43 Casa Batllo. Remodeled by Gaudi in 1900
- #41 Casa Amatller was the design of Josep Puig I Cadafalch. (He is responsible for the hotel Casa Fuster at #132) The 1900 house is for chocolatier Antoni Amatller.
- #39 Casa Bonet is a building from 1887. Architect Marcel·lí Coquillat 1915 redo of the facade is in keeping up with the neighbors. (Not part of the Discòrdia).
- #37 Casa Mulleras is a building from 1886. The current facade is from Enric Sagnier during a 1906 rehab. (He is responsible for the Catholic church on Tibidabo and the Customs House).
- #35 Casa Lleó Morerad dates from 1864. The 1904 remodel is by Montaner of hospital and Music Palace fame.
Montjuïc.
Is an area complete with museums, a castle, and fantastic city views
- La Fundació Miró – is a 1968 building that serves as a gathering point for the contemporary art movement. On display is an extensive collection of hometown kid Jean Miro’s works as well as other contemporary artists too.
- Montjuïc Castle – is a military fortress dating back to 1640 with great views.
- Palau Nacional – Built for the International Exhibition in 1929, Palau Nacional is home to Catalonian, Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and modern art.
- Poble Espanyol – the Spanish Village is an open-air museum featuring replicas of 117 buildings from all over Spain, in full size. There are also restaurants, cafés, and small shops.
- Olympic Ring – Originally built for the 1992 Olympics, the complex contains the Olympic stadium, a smaller stadium named the Palau Sant Jordi, and the pools for the swimming events.
To learn more about Barcelona, click here.
Barcelona Summary
I usually spend two nights giving me approximately two full days to explore. I try to do one neighborhood at a time, and this still never seems like enough time.
Then there is the Catalonian cuisine to sample. And what about the local wine?
Then there are many day trips. The wine country (and sparkling cava). Roman Tarragona or the beach town of Sitges to the south. The Christian pilgrimage site of Montserrat is an hours drive to the northwest. Or delve into Salvadore Dali at his Dalí Theatre and Museum in Figueres. On the way, see charming Girona.
After reading this, if I ask you, “Where are you going?” I hope the answer is Barcelona.
PLEASE scroll down to the “Please Leave a Reply” section at the bottom and tell me your thoughts on:
Where would you begin in Barcelona?”
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“Santorini Greece” Continued on Page T3 “Taste Andros” Continued on T11
Beautiful Barcelona! I am charmed by the cathdrals and that little pedestrian bridge, Ponte del Bisbe, which would be a must see for me! Another Sunday treat – thank you!
So want to go to Barcelona!