THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
Paros is a little bit country, and it’s a little bit rock-n-roll. At breakfast, it is not unusual to sit next to a family with kids. While on the other side are 20-somethings who look like they were out until 6:00 AM. (Because they were.)
It’s where the young Greeks like to go in summer to party. And this is undoubtedly true in Naousa (Naoussa) town at night and the Santa Maria beach area in the day.
But Naousa is excellent for people like me who are in bed before the young people go out.
The island has a few small ancient sites to see, lovely beaches, and excellent cuisine. There’s even a winery you can visit for tastings.
Ferries arrive year-round from Piraeus on their way to Naxos or Santorini. In the summer, connections increase and include Mykonos as well as smaller islands nearby.
Paros seems to have more year-round inhabitants than some of the neighboring islands. The year-round ferry is undoubtedly a part of that. There is an airport with flights to the mainland.
Ancient History.
Near Naousa, above the village of Koukounaries, there was a major Mycenaean settlement.
They believe it dates back to the 13th-century B.C. Invaders destroy it in the 12th-century B.C. They rebuild a new one in the 10th-century B.C. Destroy it in the 7th-century B.C. By the 4th-century B.C., most of it goes for recycled building material.
There are the ancient quarries near Kostos. The island made a fortune off of its famous marble. In addition to local structures,
Paros marble is all over Greece including the ruins of Apollo’s Temple on Delos.
There’s the Venus of Milos, (on loan to the French and overdue.)
At Olympia, you can see the statue of Hermes (Praxiteles) and Dionysos at the Archaeological Museum.
Less Ancient
By the 7th century A.D., the Greeks have left the island. With no one guarding the hen-coop, pirates set up house.
The modern-day word for “pirate” comes from… yes, the Greek word Prospathó, meaning “to attempt.”
During the Fourth Crusade in 1204, the Byzantines lose. The Franks split up all of Greece, including the islands, as war prizes.
Venetian Marco Sanudo swoops in, conquers the Cycladic islands and makes himself the duke.
1478 A.D. the Ottoman Hayreddin Barbarossa is born. He and his three brothers will become pirates, attacking the Christian ports of the Mediterranian.
He will later receive a promotion to admiral of the Ottoman Navy.
Paros is one of his hangouts.
Suliman, the Ottoman sultan, declares war on Venice (and all of its holdings).
By 1566, they take the Cycladic islands but have very little interest in them.
They leave the Venetians in charge to run the islands and collect the taxes for the Ottomans.
In 1821 there is the Greek War of Independence to rid Greece of the Ottomans.
Paros joins the Kingdom of Greece. There’s not “too much” history.
Paros Today.
For the travelers not requiring beach time and nightlife into the wee hours, come during the off-season.
Due to year-round daily ferry service from Piraeus (Athens), the island is open all 12 months.
Cafes and shops are open, albeit shorter hours. There is a sizeable year-round community, so there are people for talking.
For those requiring some sun and late nightlife, consider the early summer, (May – June) or September. The island has everything you need.
July and August are also available. Just multiply the temperature, cost, and crowds during this period.
Sunsets on Paros are just as pretty as Mykonos or Santorini. Especially with a glass of local wine.
Parikia.
The front street is touristy and typical of many islands.
Cars, trucks, and people inch closer and closer to the arriving ferries. They seem to think that standing between the people disembarking and the port exit will somehow speed up the process.
From the top deck of a boat, it looks like Sparta going against Athens.
Due to its proximity to the port, Parikia has the highest number of hostels on the island. Barkers will be there to try and sell the hostels, motels, hotels, resorts, scooters, ATVs, rental cars, etc.
My opinion is that ATVs and scooters are a quick way to tempt the Greek gods and goddesses.
Bactine comes from the Greek word bakteria.
If you do not want to drive, check out the bus system (island-wide) or taxis.
Around Town
Panagia Ekatontapyliani – the church of 100 gates dating to 326 A.D. The church has parts that likely predate the adoption of Christianity by the Romans in 391 A.D.
It is the belief that Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, began the church during a visit. She requires a church closer to the port.
Paros Archaeological Museum – is located just behind Panagia Ekatontapyliani. Outside of the major Greek cities, it is one of the best Greek archaeological museums in the country.
The museum has two significant galleries that hold pottery, sculpture, and containers.
One has Archaic and Classical Sculpture found on Paros and Anti Paros.
The other contains findings from the Neolithic, Early Cycladic, Mycenaean, Geometric, Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic, and Roman periods.
The Old Town of Parikia – Start at the windmill next to the ferry port. Go deeper into the city to find the whitewashed maze of passageways.
The Frankish Castle – dating from the 1200s (A.D.) sits at the top of the old town.
Over the centuries, it becomes part of other structures.
Popular opinion is that several of the “missing” ancient sites are building material for the castle. Today, only parts of the wall are visible.
Near Town
Delion Sanctuary of Apollo & Artemis – is a 15-minute drive from Parikia. It is at the top of the large hill on the north side of the harbor.
Here are the (very few) remains of temples to Apollo (9th century B.C.) and Artemis, (5th-century B.C.)
Why is it a “Delion Sanctuary”?
The front of the temple was facing the island of Delos, the birthplace of Apollo. The good news, on a crystal clear day, you can see Delos from here.
The bad news that, and the view of Parikia is the only thing to see here. Only a few foundation walls of the buildings are visible.
Naousa
The Old Town of Naoussa – is similar to Parikia. A maze of whitewashed buildings with bright accents.
Port / Venetian Fortress – seems to be ground zero for the town. All roads and passageways seem to end up here eventually.
The remains of a Venetian Fort dating from the 1400s are visible rising out of the harbor. On a sunny day, you can also look at some ruins underwater.
Although the guns are all gone, the fort still protects part of the port as a breakwater.
Moraitis Winery is one of the few wineries in the Cycladic islands (outside Santorini) that you can visit.
It is a ten-minute walk from the Church of the Assumption of Mary in Naousa. The walk home takes longer.
They have been producing wine since 1910 and are one of the larger producers on the island.
Using indigenous grapes from their vineyard, they bottle around 15 white, red, and rose wines.
Paros Park – is on the point across the bay from Naousa. Here you can find beaches that have facilities as well as beaches without any amenities.
There are outdoor movies in the summer as well as a taverna. An old monastery now acts as a small museum.
Perhaps the main draw is the three hiking trails they have to various parts of the peninsula.
Around the Island
Logovarda Monastery – is on the road from Parikia to Naousa. Dating from the 17th century, it is the island’s largest monastery.
It has a library with rare manuscripts, a winery, and a cellar.
They do not permit women to enter.
Lefkes Village – This was the first capital of the island due to its excellent location away from pirates.
Here, you can walk the pedestrian passageways and admire a traditional mountainside village. There are some small museums to browse and local tavernas to whet your whistle.
An easy, predominantly downhill hike starts here and follows a trail and parts of an old Byzantine road to Prodromos.
The Marble Quarries – are just outside the village of Marathi, and approximately 20-minutes drive from Parikia.
From the moment you arrive, you realize this is something special.
First, there is a place for a few (small) cars to pull off the main road.
Then there is the triumphant, marble paver path leading up the hill. This site is going to be great.
Then the walkway abruptly ends with no quarry in view. There is a dirt path leading towards some empty buildings.
The remains of the French mining company. The buildings are the offices and storage of a French mining company, dating from 1844.
The company was removing marble for Napoleon’s tomb. Remember, this is quality marble.
The Venus of Milo begins in this quarry.
Beaches
Northeast
Little Santa Maria – is east of Naousa about 15 minutes drive depending on traffic.
You will first come to Santa Maria beach. A wide crescent on your right. Keep driving. There are several beach clubs here where you can feel the pulse of the music before leaving your car.
There are sun chairs and umbrellas for rent. A tasty seafood taverna is within walking distance.
Southeast
A 30-minute drive from either Parikia or Naousa is a stretch of coast with several of the more popular beaches.
Piso Livadi – is a fishing village with a pleasant beach area. For the most part, this beach only attracts people staying in the area.
It is not teeming with the beach clubs younger adults favor, although there are numerous restaurants just behind the beach.
Golden Beach & New Golden Beach – are very popular for water sports. Surfing, windsurfing, kitesurfing, and kiteboarding equipment is available for rental.
There are kayaks, and canoes for paddling. Waterskiing, jet skiing, and scuba diving are also available.
West Coast
I am not a fan of sunbathing at the beach. So, I say the small stretches of sand on the west coast are ideal for me.
They are scenic. They do not have the crowds like the east coast. Part of the reason being the number of rocks in the sand.
The island reminds me of Mykonos 20 years ago. Not too much to do, and that is wonderful. The cuisine is not for tourists. It’s for the people who vacation here, the Greeks.
Did I mention the wine?
And when this island gets too crazy for me, I go to Antiparos.
To learn more about Paros, click here.
PLEASE scroll down to the “Please Leave a Reply” section at the bottom and tell me your thoughts on:
What side of the island do you think you would like?”
Please help me spread the news by liking, commenting, and sharing this blog. – THANKS!
“See Rome Italy” Continued on Page T3 “Taste French Spirits” Continued on T11
I would agree, the west coast would be for me – a very natural beach setting for exploring and sunsets! I also loved the “whitewashed maze” description of the neighborhoods – words so perfectly representative of the pictures shown. Thank you again for another Sunday treat!
Loved “The walk home will take longer.”
I want to go! My eyes read ‘paprika’ like the spice, so my brain thinks that and I think that applies too! Do you know why the Greeks use that beautiful ‘azure’ blue for their doors? GREAT article. I WANT TO GO!
Scylla Williams had a half off paint sale? Many believe the white buildings with blue accents represent the Greek Flag. That’s nice. However, the flag only dates to 1822, whereas white buildings were around much earlier. The white on the buildings was to block the intense Mediterranian heat in the days before A/C. The blue trim, while lovely and contrasting the white is pretty, serves a much stronger role. Blue wards off evil spirits. That’s why Greek doorways and church domes are often blue. On Greek boats, you will see a blue “eye” often time on the bow. This is the “evil eye” that wards off bad spirits and the curse of the evil eye. The evil eye amulet (also for warding off the evil eye) is cobalt blue with a white circle and pupil. Greece is not the only place in the Mediterranian to see this color scheme, but they sure do it well. – THANKS for asking.