Weekend on the French Riviera.
The Riviera. In France, they call it the Côte d’Azur, the Azur Coast. They undersell. There are at least 70 additional shades of the blue color present. You can see it in the sky, and the shimmering Mediterranian. It’s in the brush strokes of the Impressionist painters, even in the fresh flower markets. And you will find just about every other color as well. Welcome to the French Riviera.
The French Riviera generally refers to the French coast between St Tropez and the border with Italy. Tucked inside the eastern edge of the French Riviera is the 5-mile wide Principality of Monaco. It consists of four districts, the best known being Monte Carlo.
Life’s a Beach.
With around 70 miles of coastline, you would think that going to the beach would be the reason to visit. However, many of the beaches in this area would not rate highly by American standards. Most of the beaches between Monte Carlo and Cannes contain stones and little to no sand. Also, it is not the white sand you find on Florida beaches. Summary, you are probably not going to fly 8+ hours from N. America to go to the beach here. If you do, check out the private beach clubs that include chair rental, refreshments, and restrooms.
Art is All Around
For the art lover, The French Riviera is a semi-pilgrimage sight. The artists come here for the light, many doing some of their best works during this time.
It began in the late 1880s when Vincent Van Gogh moved to Arles. Paul Gaughin would visit him and paint. (Not officially the French Riviera, but in the south of France north of Marseille). An hours drive southeast from here is Aix-en-Provence where Paul Cézanne was born and has his studio. He is more of a post-impressionistic artist. Regardless, they credit him with building the bridge from Impressionism to the 20th-century art still to come.
At the same time that Van Gogh was settling in Arles, the Impressionist Claude Monet traveled to St Tropez and liked what he saw. He did several works there before returning to Paris. Soon, Paul Signac takes up residence in St Tropez, replacing him.
Further along the coast, you have Pierre-Auguste Renoir moving to Cagnes-sur-Mer in 1907. He would spend the last few years of his life there.
Nearby in Grasse, the American-born artist Mary Cassatt lived and entertained her mentor Edgar Degas as well as Renoir. And there were many others.
Spotting the Impressionists.
Unfortunately, much of their art ended up in Paris and museums around the world. One of the few places to see Impressionistic paintings is at the Musee Renoir on the grounds of his last home. Here, there are a few of his final works. You visit here to channel his spirit, not to admire his work.
The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Nice has a small collection of lesser-known Impressionists mixed in with sculptures and contemporary art. The museum, 20-minute walk west of the Negresco Hotel, is in a mansion dating from 1878. Some of the architecture and decorations are equally interesting to see.
Send in the Post-Impressionists.
The next wave of artists begins around 1917 when Henri Matisse moves to Nice. The poet, a playwright, film director, painter, and ceramicist Jean Cocteau, visits Villefranche in 1925 for vacation and doesn’t leave.
Pablo Picasso was offered the Chateau Grimaldi in Antibes in 1946 as a studio. His friend artist Georges Braque would visit.
1948 the Russian-born Marc Chagall came to St Jean Cap Ferrat where he finds inspiration from the Azur light.
Although he did not move to the south of France, the Spanish artist Joan Miró has an impressive installation in the Maeght Foundation garden near Saint-Paul-de-Vence, featuring several pieces commissioned for this garden.
You can find the works of these artists all across the south of France. The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MAMAC) in Nice has several of their pieces. The Musée de l’Annonciade in St Tropez has a small collection with works by Signac, the Nabis’ group, Matisse, Braque and Picasso among others.
If you are looking for a specific artist, there is good news. Several museums, dedicated to a particular artist exist.
Jean Cocteau – Menton France.
In Menton, just before the Italian border, you have the Musee Jean Cocteau Collection. (Website in French only) It includes drawings, paintings, lithographs, tapestries, pottery as well as other mementos from his time in Menton. Closed on Tuesdays.
The Musee-du-Bastion is a five-minute walk from the museum along the waterfront. The former blockhouse in the city wall dates to 1619. Cocteau did many mosaics here. Your museum ticket includes admission to the Bastion. Also, closed on Tuesdays.
The La Salle des Mariages (Wedding Room) in the city hall features decorations by Cocteau. His drawings meander over the walls. This space is a separate entrance from the Museum/bastion. As it is in a government building, it is only open Mon – Fridays.
Pablo Picasso – Antibes France.
The Musée Picasso was previously the Château Grimaldi, a family known for their support of artists, in Antibes. They offer the artist this space as a studio. While he is there, he produces several of the pieces on display there today. Musee is not open on Mondays.
A 20-minute drive away in Valarius France is the Musée National Pablo Picasso. The collection is of his works during the time he was living here.
Of Particular Interest: After years of legal battles, the only child of Picasso and his second wife Jacqueline, is planning to open the Musée Jacqueline et Pablo Picasso, near Aix-en-Provence. The museum is hoping to debut in 2021. Although it is not really in the Riviera region, it will be an essential destination for Picasso fans. She will be displaying over 1000 pieces, many never seen by the public before.
Marc Chagall – Nice.
The Musée Marc Chagall houses over 800 works by the artist, especially his works inspired by religion. It is the most massive public display of his work in the world. Paintings, as well as stained glass, is on display. Closed on Tuesdays.
Henri Matisse.
Housing one of the artists most extensive collections, the Musée Matisse is in a former mansion dating from 1670. Matisse was living in Nice for more than 45 years. The museum exhibits his works, as well as personal belongings. The museum is open every day except Tuesdays.
Chapelle du Rosaire à Vence (In French but see photos) is a 30-minute drive from Nice in nearby Vence. The artist designed and built this building as gratitude for his nurse. Despite imperfections, he believes it is his masterpiece. The chapel is not open to the public on Sunday or Monday. Shorter hours on Wednesday and Saturday.
For Matisse fans, on the Rue Saint-François de Paule, a block from where the Promenade du Paillon meets the sea is the Beau Rivage Hotel. Its interiors have seen many changes since Matisse checked in in 1916. It was his first home in Nice, and he stayed for two years. Have a drink at the bar and bask in the space where Matisse used to drink with friends F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, Picasso and others during the roaring 20s.
Museums of a Different Color.
For those explorers who only need a small taste of modern art, check out some of the other museums. Several incredible buildings house impressive collections. The Palais Lascaris, near the Old Town, has an impressive array of antique musical instruments.
Initially built for the family Massena, today the lovely mansion is home to the Massena Museum. Near the Hotel Negresco, it is part house tour, part museum. It is not a great museum in size or collection. However, due to the families relationship with Napoleon, they have several articles from both him and his wife, Josephine. These include Napoleon’s death mask.
Perhaps the loveliest home and setting is the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. Béatrice de Rothschild (THAT Rothschild family) fell in love with this area in 1905, while getting over a nasty divorce. She had the villa built and immediately began decorating it. She fills he rooms with porcelain, furniture, and paintings by Europe’s Great Masters. You can tour the gardens, lower salons or Beatrice’s rooms. There is a small cafe that serves tea and light lunches.
The newer (2011) Musée d’Art Classique de Mougins (near Cannes) Houses a lovely collection of classical art from the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans. There is also modern art and the world’s most extensive private collection of ancient armor.
Sightseeing.
Although this area was a trading post of the Greeks expanding west, there is not a lot of evidence. A few exceptions include the Musee D’Archeologie in Nice, sits over a Roman archeological site dating from 14 BC.
The Trophy of Auguste in La Turbie is part of a tribute built for Caesar’s nephew Octavius, who would later be named Emperor Augustus and bring on the Pax Romana (Roman Peace).
A 15-minute boat ride off the coast of Cannes is the charming island of Saint-Honorat. Construction on the abbey begins in 410 A.D. It is a landmark for Christianity throughout the 5th and 6th centuries. The island has several other French Historical sites. These include chapels dating back to the 1300s as well as remnants of Napoleon’s men on the island in 1794. The current monks are winemakers and offer wine tastings. There is also a restaurant and a snack bar if you want lunch with a view. A minimum two-night stay is available in the monastery if you bring the sheets.
16th-century citadels are visible in several locations as well as 17th and 18th-century architecture. Hilltop towns such as St Paul de Vence, Gourdon, and Eze, are pleasant to stroll. And you get a free step master work out at the same time.
Or stroll around Nice. Continued on page T4
The Taste of the French Riviera.
Near Nice, there are more than ten wineries and several closer to St Tropez. The specialty is Rose wine. Before you turn up a wine snob nose to this, TRY ONE. This wine is not your father’s Rose. Try starting at a wine bar in the Old Town of Nice. Caves Pierre Bianchi & Cie has been dealing in wine since 1860. Stop in for a tasting where you have several ways to taste the Riviera. Then plan a visit to the wineries you liked.
La Petite Loge is around the corner from the Musée du Palais Lascaris. While more of a cafe, they also sell wines by the glass and has other tasty treats for sale. Think picnic lunch. The Prom. du Paillon is a 3-minute walk from here with benches to sit and enjoy a laptop lunch.
La cuisine de Nice.
Try everything Nicoise. You can spend an entire weekend just eating and not have to repeat one item. So fresh, so good. Continued on page T6