THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
The mystical monasteries of Meteora. Many people recognize them. From a travel magazine, a James Bond film, or as inspiration for a sky cell in Games of Thrones.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, and an incredible display by mother nature, it is surprising how few people come here.
It gets quite a few tour buses in the summer, but in comparison to Santorini or Mykonos, it’s touristy free.
For one, it is not a cruise port. Ten ships with 3000+ tourists cannot arrive within an hour and overwhelm the locals and locale.
Some of the smaller ships, less than 1000 guests, occasionally call on Volos which is approximately two hours’ drive away. But rarely are there two on the same day so the area keeps its mojo.
Unfortunately, they only see the area for a few hours mid-day. They miss the sunrise, sunset and everything else the area offers.
There are day trips from Athens by bus (around four hours each way,) and train (five hours each way.)
In the same situation, they get a few hours to rush through the area.
Meteora Immersion
True, that is better than nothing, but if you’re going to travel that far, don’t you want to experience it?
I have been numerous times and still have a lot to see.
So what is this, what’s happening, what’s going on here?
For the same reason, fewer people see this area today, that is the reason there is something to see here.
Religious hermits were looking for a place no one else would go to due to the difficulty of reaching it.
Ancient Kalabaka History.
Artifacts show inhabitants in the caves in this area dating from between 50,000 and 5,000 years ago. A stone wall at the Theopetra cave dates from 23,000 years ago. This makes it the oldest known example of a built structure. The walls use was probably as a barrier against the ice age at the time.
Aeginium is a town of mighty strength and is nearly impregnable, according to Roman historians from circa 180 B.C.
The Battle of Pydna, circa 167 B.C., sees the Romans defeating King Perseus of Macedon. The area of northern Greece falls under Roman rule. The Romans sack and plunder many of the villages, including Aeginium.
The town appears in historic records again during the Great Roman Civil War (49–45 B.C.) Circa 48 B.C., Gnaeus Domitius Calvinus joins Caesar against Pompey during a meeting at Aeginium.
With the rise of the Roman Empire, circa 26 B.C. Aeginium becomes a Roman backwater for the next ?? years.
There is no real evidence of the Romans in this area outside of historical accounts.
Less Ancient.
The area below the rocks will not appear in writings again until circa 900 A.D. At this time; they refer to it as Stagoi. It is an episcopal see.
Like much of the rest of the Greek mainland, it will pass from one group to another. Then circa 1460 mainland Greece falls to the Ottomans. They will remain in power until the Greek War of Independence beginning in 1821.
They change the name to Kalabaka, meaning “powerful fortress”.
Today it goes by Kalabaka, Kalambaka, Kalapaka, or (rarely) Kalabaki.
Above Kalabaka
In the rocks above Stagoi, a small group of hermit monks arrives in the ninth century A.D. They make living quarters in the natural hollows and fissures in the rock. The remote location, above present-day Kastraki, was enough to keep away visitors.
They did not live together. The monks would only meet on Sundays or special days to worship at the base of the rock. The area’s name is Doupiani. Today, there is a small chapel from the 12th-century standing, perhaps on the spot of the original one.
Going Up.
By the tenth century, the hermits, fleeing invaders, would move higher on the cliff face.
Down below, the Byzantine fortress of Stagoi becomes an episcopal see. This title brings privileges and donations from the Byzantine emperor in Constantinople. More monks begin coming to the area.
By the early 12th-century, a monastic community of Eastern Orthodox Christians is forming. It centers around the Holy Temple of Dormition of the Virgin Mary in the upper part of Kalabaka.
Pesky Ottomans.
Circa 1344, a priest arrives from Mount Athos with a group of followers. Mount Athos is close to the Turkish border, and attacks from the Ottomans are increasing. Between 1356 and 1372, he builds the great Meteoron monastery on top of the rock.
The location serves two purposes, safety from attacks and autonomy from the town below.
By the time of the Turkish occupation (1460), more than 20 monasteries are in the sky. Meteora means the “middle of the sky” or “suspended in the air”. You will see this is an appropriate name.
Initially, access to the monasteries was tricky for a reason. Either long ladders or nets on a rope are the only way for people and supplies to reach the top. When do they replace the lines? After the Lord lets them break. There is no preventative maintenance here. It brings a new meaning to the term leap of faith.
But life is not perfect in this lofty local. Some of the monasteries do suffer attacks from the Ottomans. Some monks abandon them moving north and west out of the Ottoman reach.
It will continue until the 1821 Greek War of Independence.
Greek Christians no longer need to flee, but they also no longer need to hide.
The 1900s
By 1920, they begin carving steps into the rock and constructing bridges to the monasteries. This act has a double edge. It makes the monasteries easier to access.
This same access will allow German and Italian troops to plunder them during WWII. The Germans also use some of the monasteries for bombing practice.
Today, only six have occupants. Of the four housing monks, there are less than 25 monks between them. The other two, for nuns, also have few residents.
The Monasteries of Meteora.
The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Meteora consists of the remaining six monasteries. Some of these have limited days or requirements. I like to start on the east end and work my way west.
Agios Stefanos Monastery
Today, this is the most accessible monastery. You cross a bridge. However, there are steps to reach other parts of the structure. This monastery is home to very hospitable nuns.
Agia Triada (Holy Trinity) Monastery
requires a workout. Its main claim to fame is the views once you reach it. It appears in a James Bond film from the 1970s.
Holy Monastery of Varlaam
Varlaam is the second-largest monastery and is the newest of the monasteries dating from 1540. The current building sits over a chapel built by Varlaam in the 1300s.
Holy Monastery of Great Meteoron
Dating from the 1300s, it is the oldest and the largest. Guests can view the Sacristy, New-martyrs halls, the old refectory, kitchen, and more.
is a convent, but it began as a monastery for monks. Due to its lower elevation, it offers incredible views of some of the higher monasteries.
Monastery St Nicholas Anapafsas of Meteora
St Nicholas is thin and tall due to its narrow perch. Possibly due to the steps to reach the various floors, it never seems as crowded as the others. Or maybe I am lucky.
Below Meteora.
Some say there is nothing to see in Kalabaka, but I disagree. Here are a few things to fill in the time between the day-trippers.
Dormition of the Virgin Mary – is at the base of the rock. Dating from circa 6th or 7th century A.D., they dedicate this Christian church to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. The 11th-century Byzantine frescoes are worth the visit.
Holy Temple of Dormition of the Virgin MaryDigital Projection Centre of Meteora’s History and Culture – screens a 3-D film with a brief intro into Mythology and Mount Olympus. The majority of the 38-minute film is the creation of Meteora and its monasteries.
Natural History Museum of Kalampaka & Mushroom Museum – has more than 300 exhibits, including birds, mammals, and mushrooms. Not only do they have an excellent mushroom exhibition area, but they also offer truffle hunting on select days between March and September. See the website (orange link) for more details.
Meteora’s Kastraki
The village of Kastraki is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Meteora.
Also, the Greek State classifies it as a traditional resort (village) under preservation.
I prefer Kastraki with its small village vibe, although there are more people every time I visit. It is also a foodie destination. Here you will find many of the hearty traditional dishes. And there is the local wine.
Read more about Kastraki Cuisine.
Memorial Park
This park seems to be as close to a town center as I have found. I cannot put my finger on it, but the views or perspectives from here are inspiring. The rocks containing many of the first hermit caves and even the rock of Adrachti are visible from here.
Panagia Church
You can reach this small chapel via a packed dirt lane from town. However, it is uphill most of the way. The current small chapel is not the reason you visit. It allows access to views of several of the hermit caves – monasteries you cannot see from town.
- Panagia Monastery – Look to the left. A few hundred feet ahead of you are the remains of the original Panagia. Although not accessible by the public, you can get close. During my last visit, 2018, there was still part of one of the wooden and rope ladders hanging from above.
Meteora Summary.
It is a long way to drive for disappointment. Plan to spend the night to experience a sunrise, a sunset, the cuisine, and the area.
Who or whatever your religious or spiritual higher power is, you will feel nearer from on top of the rocks.
Read more about Kalabaka.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.