BACK TO ITALIAN WINE
Table of Contents:
GRAPES
WINE REGIONS
THE D.O.C.s AND D.O.C.G.s
Tuscany Cuisine Italian Beers Italian Spirits.
Tuscany has 53 D.O.C. (D.O.C.G.) zones of wine. If we stop there, Tuscan (Italian Toscana) wine is easy to understand.
But that’s just the tip. Tuscany is the home to Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. It is home of the Super Tuscans, which are great wines and not in a D.O.C.
Not all Tuscan wines are red. Using the Vernaccia grape, they make the white Vernaccia di San Gimignano.
Tuscany even has their Vin Santo dessert wine, which uses a blend of the region’s grapes.
So, where do you start with Tuscan wine?
Ancient Tuscan Wine
The history of Tuscan wine dates back to the Etruscans and the 8th century B.C. The remains of wine containers (Amphora) originating in Tuscany show up in southern Italy, Spain, and France. Some dating to the 7th century B.C.
In the 3rd century B.C., Greeks pushing westward, write about the quality of wine from this area.
When the Roman Republic, then Empire take over, they improve and expand the production of wines in this area.
Not So Ancient Tuscan Wine
With the fall of the Roman Empire circa 476 A.D., the church sweeps in and snatches up the vineyards. They put the monasteries in charge of wine production.
Whoever controls the wine controls the power. With the unsanitary water sources, wine is the leading beverage safe to drink. The Italian Monasteries will hold onto much of this valuable real estate for centuries.
By 568 AD, the Germanic Lombards sweep in from the north and control all of the Italian Peninsula. They will remain “in control” for the next two hundred years. But, like many, they conquer and move on, not challenging the church and its holdings.
Then in 774, when a Frankish King captures and places Italy into his real estate holdings. The church starts to detect its foundation may be cracking. This Frank then declares himself the king of the Lombards. His name is Charlemagne.
In 800 AD, he has the Pope declare him the Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. Also, he sets up many kingdoms, including the Kingdom of Italy, comprising northern and western Italy.
Soon the Pope and Emperor are fighting each other so much; they have no time to rule over Italy. The Frank nobles waste no time taking more control over the lands on a local level. With the Pope’s army off fighting, there is no one to stop them.
They do well. The nobles are leasing their property to sharecroppers for only half of the yearly crop. Many Tuscan landowners use their half of the grape harvest to make wine. By the 1200s, there are guilds to protect the wines in this area.
A Woman’s Eye
In the late 1000’s Matilda of Tuscany acquires a substantial area, including present-day Lombardy, Emilia, Romagna, and Tuscany. She will improve the vineyards, in turn improving Tuscan wine and profiting nicely.
Upon her death in 1115, there is no one to watch over the area with any real authority. The vineyards pass into the hands of the local nobles. This land grab will last until the mid-1400s when a Tuscan family begins acquiring real estate and wealth. Their name is Medici.
Tuscany Turmoil.
The Medici are not the only ones collecting real estate. The Republic of Venice, Florence, the Papal States, and Naples are all grabbing at Northern Italy. When Florence sides with the Medici, there is an unstable peace.
To secure their power, the Medici pay for several family members to become Pope. In one way or another, a Medici has their hand on just about everything in Northern Italy.
They adore wine and throw vast amounts of money to improve and enlarge production.
The Medici’s die out in the 1700s, Napoleon marches through circa 1802, and some other stuff happens. Then, in 1861, the kingdom of Italy is born. What we take from this is, the vineyards survive and thrive.
The Last 100+ Years
Italian wine goes through its worst years from 1870 to 1950. First, the European Phylloxera epidemic destroys many of the vineyards, especially those in the north.
WWI weakens the economy, allowing the National Fascist Party, under Benito Mussolini, to take control. They rule from 1922 to 1943. During this time, the quality grapes and the rotten grapes all go into one mediocre wine.
WWII sees the destruction of many vineyards. What wineries can afford to replant, plant cheap, easy to grow grapes for the worldwide market. Soon Italy is a significant source of cheap table wine.
In the 1960s, The Italian government creates a two-level “quality” wine grading law. Why? So they can “protect quality.” Translating this into English it means to tax the wine producers. There is still table wine, which has few restrictions. The rest now fall under these two.
- DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) will be for better quality wines than table wine.
- DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) will be for the highest quality wines.
With each new level, there are more restrictions and higher fees. It is corrupt almost from day one. It creates a surplus of frustration, but very little good Italian wine.
The Rise of the Super Wines.
In Chianti, the DOC says Chianti wines must now include a 20% white wine blend. This rule leads to cheaper production costs, but the quality begins to sink.
As a result, the rebel winemakers, not wanting to add the white wine, start producing impressive red wines. They by-pass the white fillers so they cannot call them “Chianti.”
To save their reputations and many taxes, they call them Vino da Tavola (table wine).
The American press, crazy for these new bold red wines, refuses to call them table wines. They pen the name, “Super Tuscans.” It is not long before other regions have “super” table wines.
In later years, realizing they were ruining the Chianti reputation, the government eases a few of the regulations.
But they were not quitting. The government is back in the 1990s with I.G.T., Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Geographical Indication). This label is a way to tax the “super” wines.
Tuscan Wine Today
Tuscany wines are some of the more famous Italian wines worldwide. They continue to improve themselves so that even table wine is, 98% of the time, outstanding.
Some Sangiovese reds from Tuscany can get more than $600 a bottle. Some Super Tuscans go for more than $700 a bottle.
Tuscany is the third-largest wine-producing region in Italy after Piedmont and the Veneto. They also hold the third-highest volume of DOC/G quality wines in Italy.
The Tuscan soil is inferior. Due to lower yields, the growers strive for higher quality levels in their wine. They set aside more than 80% of the region for the production of red wine.
The Grapes
Without making this a graduate study, let’s look at the most popular grapes in Tuscan wine.
Reds
Sangiovese – is Tuscany’s most prominent grape for red wine. Are all Sangiovese grapes the same? Hardly. Between the different soils, climate, and even cloning, no two grapes are 100% identical. The Sangiovese has multiple personalities. That means you have to try more of them.
Canaiolo – is a native of Tuscany or nearby. It was once the primary grape in the local Chianti. Today, it supports Sangiovese. It is also an essential component of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.
Colorino – is a secondary red grape they use predominately for coloring wines due to its intense dark red color. You would not find a wine made with Colorino on its own.
Malvasia Nera – is a relative of the Malvasia grape. They use it for blending in dry, sparkling, and sweet red wines. It is rarely a varietal (one grape) wine.
Mammolo – is primarily a Tuscan grape, which even Tuscany is using less and less. You may find it in Chianti.
Whites
Although white wines make up only about 20% of Tuscany’s wine output, some are refreshing whites. They export very few, so if you want to try them, you need to do it while in Tuscany.
Trebbiano – is the leader of white wine grapes in Tuscany. It makes a fresh fruity wine that is best when young.
Malvasia – is more a southern Italy grape. They use it for white table wine, dessert, and fortified wines.
Vermentino – can be a sophisticated wine similar to Sauvignon Blanc. It comes from closer to the sea and is great with seafood.
Vernaccia – is a white wine from the hill town of San Gimignano. It has been one of Italy’s best white wines since the Renaissance.
They have been planting Cabernet Sauvignon vines in Tuscany since the 1700s. Is it a local or international grape at this point?
Tuscan Wine Regions
Super Tuscans
Brunello di Montalcino
The Sangiovese here does well. They ripen quickly and produce wines with deep color, richness, full bodies, and the right balance of tannins. It is one of the first Tuscan wines to earn D.O.C.G. status.
Brunello di Montalcino wines must age a minimum of four years. The riserva requires an additional year.
A young Brunello is high in tannins. They do not begin to soften until after ten years, and twenty is often better.
DOC Rosso di Montalcino, (Baby Brunello) – is a similar wine. They make it from the same grapes, in the same tyle, but age it for less time. They are Brunello light and drinkable at an earlier age.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
The Vino Nobile di Montepulciano receives D.O.C.G. status shortly after the Brunello di Montalcino. The D.O.C.G. covers only red wines from the Montepulciano area, southeast of Siena. The “Vino Nobile” comes from the 1600s, when it was the favorite wine of the Tuscan nobility.
The local variety of Sangiovese must account for at least 80% of the wine. Today, some are using Cabernet or Merlot in place of the traditional Canaiolo and Mammolo for the other 20%. Others use 100% Sangiovese.
The wines require two years of aging or three for the riserva. Young Nobile is fresh with aromas of bright red fruit. As it ages, it takes on more of a medium body, plum-like flavors with hints of tobacco and candied fruit.
Carmignano
Carmignano was the first Tuscan D.O.C.G. blending Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese. The reason being they have been growing Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in their region for a long time.
Carmignano was a favorite of Cosimo Medici, who gave them special protection due to their superior winemaking. In the 1700s, they were blending Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon. The region became a DOC in 1975 and a D.O.C.G. in 1990.
Chianti
Chianti is Tuscany’s largest wine region and takes up much of the central area. Their specialty is the red Chianti wine. But they also produce white, sweet Rosso reds, and Vin Santo.
Chianti has two wine zones, the Chianti and Chianti Classico.
Chianti Classico is the original Chianti region covering the area between Florence and Siena. If you ask them, the best Chianti wines come from here. In general, Chianti Classicos are medium-body wines with dry tannins.
Chianti D.O.C.G. is a more extensive zone stretching to the north, west, and south of the Classico zone.
Due to the regulations we already know about, and others that came later, Chanti can vary. The exact amounts of Sangiovese and other red wines make for numerous combinations. This mixing also affects the body, tannins, and at what age to drink it. They finally drop the white wine requirement in 2006.
Bolgheri
The DOC Bolgheri region in Livorno province is home to one of the original Super Tuscan wines Sassicaia, (Italian: stone.) But it is not from the 1970s. It dates to 1944. Marchesi Rochetta tries to make a wine similar to the Graves (French: gravel,) wines of Bordeaux. He uses Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. It is not until the 1960s, after it has been aging for a while, that it catches on.
Vernaccia di San Gimignano
They have been making this white wine in the area of San Gimignano for over seven centuries. It uses the Vernaccia grape, and many consider it Tuscany’s best white wine. It is the first Tuscan wine to receive a D.O.C. designation in 1966.
The wine is dry, with a full-body and earthy notes of honey and minerals. There are various styles due to fermenting, aging in steel or oak barrels, etc.
Other Tuscan Wine Regions.
Although not as famous as the regions above, or maybe as traditional, there are other regions to check out.
Pomino
Pomino is near Ruffina, east of Florence, where they specialize in French grape varieties. They make wines from Cabernet, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and local Italian varieties.
Maremma
This region hugs the coast south of Livorno. It has its I.G.T. designation Maremma Toscana. The regio’s focus is on varietal wines, predominately red, both dry and sweet. Grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. They make Vin Santo dessert wine, but very little white wine, which seems strange with the seafood nearby.
Maremma is also home to the D.O.C.G., Morellino di Scansano. This wine is a fragrant, dry red with a Sangiovese base.
Grosseto
Below Maremma on the coast, this region has eight DOC designations, several from the late 1990s. They produce red, white, rose, and Vin Santo wines. There are wine trails to follow, and for the most part, it is still a secret.
Parrina
The region is the bottom of Tuscany, south of Grosseto. Here, you can find the local white wines to go with the seafood. Try the Bianco di Pitigliano, a blend of Chardonnay, the Greco Trebbiano, Grechetto, Malvasia, Pinot blanc, Verdello, and other whites. It has to go with every kind of seafood with that many flavors.
It is an old Tuscan wine region. Parrina was one of the first Italian areas to receive DOC status in 1966. The seaside location and volcanic soil make outstanding wine.
Montecarlo
Montecarlo is a region near Lucca, north of Livorno. They grow several varieties of grapes that are not common to Tuscan wines, including Sémillon and Roussanne.
The DOC Bianco begins with 40% to 60% Trebbiano Toscano. The other portion can contain up to 10% of Semillon, Pinot Gris, Pinot Bianco, Vermentino, Sauvignon blanc, or Roussane. Many people enjoy these white wines. Then can vary in taste, tell your server what you want.
The DOC Rosso is similar. It starts with 50% to 75% Sangiovese and can add up to 15% Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nera, Cabernet, and Merlot. The combinations are endless.
Elba
This island is a short ferry ride from Piombino on the Tuscan coast. The island has one of the oldest winemaking histories in Tuscany and its DOC. Considering how little of the island is still under wine production, it is impressive they make any wine. Let alone seven different ones.
They grow Procanico (Trebbiano), Ansonica, and Vermentino for the white wines. The two red and one rose wine come from the same grape, the Sangiovese. The big difference is in the length of aging. They also make a sweet dessert wine from Moscato grapes.
The Tuscan Wine D.O.C.s and D.O.C.G.s
Tuscany has more D.O.C.G.s and DOCs than many of the other regions in Italy. DOCs number 33. D.O.C.G.s number 11. Wine production in this area has been a large part of the history of the region.
What are Tuscan DOCs or D.O.C.G.s?
Italian wine labels, just like the ones in France and Spain, must show a set of the necessary information. These include producer name, appellation, vintage, alcohol content, etc. The Italian system mimics the French appellation system in many ways. The DOC and D.O.C.G. categories first appear in 1982.
- DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) covers almost every traditional Italian wine style. There are over 300 individual DOC titles in Italy. Each one has a set of laws governing its viticultural zone, the grape varieties, and wine style they can produce.
- D.O.C.G. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) is the highest classification for Italian wines. First, they need to follow all the rules of the DOC. They also receive a whole new set of strict regulations governing the production of D.O.C.G. wines. These include grape varieties, the yield limits, how ripe the grapes need to be, and on and on. Then every D.O.C.G. wine goes through official tasting tests.
There are also IGT and Vino da Tavola status for Italian wines.
Below, you will find the regions of Tuscany. They are in order starting at the top of Tuscany and going clockwise.
These are different than the wine regions. Under each area are the D.O.C.G. (if that applies) wines. The D.O.C. wines follow those.
Massa-Carrara
D.O.C. Wines
Candia dei Colli Apuani
Colli di Luni an inter-regional DOC with La Spezia (Liguria)
Lucca
D.O.C. Wines
Colline Lucchesi
Montecarlo
Pistoia
D.O.C.G. Wines
Chianti Rosso – normale and Riserva
Montalbano – normale and Riserva
Superiore
D.O.C. Wines
Bianco della Valdinievole
Bianco dell’Empolese
Colli dell’Etruria Centrale
Vin Santo del Chianti
Prato
D.O.C.G. Wines
Carmignano Rosso – normale and Riserva
Chianti Rosso – normale and Riserva
Montalbano Rosso – normale and Riserva
Superiore
D.O.C. Wines
Barco Reale di Carmignano
Colli dell’ Etruria Centrale
Vin Santo del Chianti
Firenze
DO.C.G. Wines
Carmignano Rosso – normale and Riserva
Chianti Rosso – normale and Riserva
Classico – normale and Riserva
Colli Fiorentini – normale and Riserva
Montalbano – normale and Riserva
Rufina – normale and Riserva
D.O.C. Wines
Barco Reale di Carmignano
Bianco dell’Empolese
Colli dell’Etruria Centrale
Pomino
Vin Santo del Chianti
Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
Arezzo
D.O.C.G. Wines
Chianti Rosso – normale and Riserva
Colli Aretini – normale and Riserva
Superiore
D.O.C. Wines
Bianco Vergine della Valdichiana
Colli dell’Etruria Centrale
Cortona
Vin Santo del Chianti
Siena
D.O.C.G. Wines
Brunello di Montalcino Rosso – normale and Riserva
Chianti Rosso – normale and Riserva
Classico – normale and Riserva,
Colli Senesi – normale and Riserva
Vernaccia di San Gimignano Bianco – normale and Riserva
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Rosso – normale and Riserva
DO.C. Wines
Bianco Vergine della Valdichiana
Colli dell’Etruria Centrale
Moscadello di Montalcino
Orcia
Rosso di Montalcino
Rosso di Montepulciano
San Gimignano
Sant’Antimo
Val d’Arbia
Vin Santo del Chianti
del Chianti Classico
di Montepulciano
Grosseto
DO.C.G. Wines
Montecucco
Morellino di Scansano Rosso – normale and Riserva
DO.C. Wines
Ansonica Costa dell’Argentario
Bianco di Pitigliano
Capalbio
Maremma Toscana
Montecucco
Monteregio di Massa Marittima
Parrina
Sovana
Livorno
DO.C.G. Wines
Suvereto
Val di Cornia
D.O.C. Wines
Bolgheri
Elba
Pisa
D.O.C.G. Wines
Chianti Rosso – normale and Riserva
Colline Pisane – normale and Riserva
Montespertoli – normale and Riserva
Superiore
Val di Cornia
D.O.C. Wines
Bianco Pisano di San Torpè
Colli dell’Etruria Centrale
Montescudaio
Vin Santo del Chianti
Tuscan Wine Summary.
It would take you several days, and possibly a detox, to sample all of them. Then add in that so many wineries make numerous wines. And you need to sample local cuisine with the wine.
Tuscany cuisine and wine are going to take you longer than you were planning. It is not hard to fill a day up quickly. With so much to taste, try and see, you better get a start.