Table of Contents
LOCAL PRODUCTS.
BERGAMO SPECIALTIES
BEVERAGES
Wines of Italy. Birra Italiana. Italian Spirits.
Bergamo is one of Italy’s culinary capitals. Who? What? Where?
Where is Bergamo? The town and province are in Lombardy, one of the twenty administrative regions of Italy. Lombardy sits in the northwest part of the country and is home to about 10 million people. The capital is Milan.
Bergamo is in the northern part of Lombardy at the beginning of the Alps. The mountains provide a unique terrain for growing and grazing. In the foothills of the Alps, you find fruits, olives, and vines. In the central part of the region, there is pebbly soil. This area is perfect for cattle-raising and other produce. The southern part of the region along the Po river has water and fertile ground for wheat, rice, and vegetables. All three areas have different climates.
So what does this have to do with eating?
The recipes for the Lombardy, Bergamo diet probably all begin with, “What’s in the refrigerator? These recipes go back hundreds of years before supermarkets and importing. Each area has unique flavors. For instance, regional cheeses come from the Alpine regions as well as the cattle-raising regions. Tastes from the areas vary as do the characteristics within each area.
Butter replaces olive oil in this area, and cream is in many dishes. There are more cows than olive trees. Use what you have. There is D.O.P. Extra Virgin Olive Oil Laghi Lombardi – Sebino, which is a treat to taste.
As Lombardy was an agricultural area, the whole family was in the fields from sun up to sundown. Today, Lombardy is still about 45% agricultural. Single pot dishes, requiring little preparation, are a favorite hand-me-down to this day.
Taste Bergamo Through Local Products.
Let’s start with some letters. (D.O.P.) Denominazione di Origine Protetta (“Protected Designation of Origin”) and I.G.P. (Protected Geographical Indication)
D.O.P. (P.D.O.) products come from a specific area. They have characteristics due to that particular geoclimatic environment, and production takes place in that region.
Cheese
There are as many cheeses in Lombardy as there are pastures. Whether an Alpine meadow or a lower field of herbs, each diet adds a distinct taste to the cheeses.
The Bergamo area boasts 9 D.O.P. kinds of cheese, the most significant number in a single province of Italy.
Old
- Quartirolo Lombardo – is a cow’s milk cheese dating back to the 9th century in the area between Bergamo and Lecco. It has a soft, chalky, slightly lumpy texture. Like many kinds of cheese, it starts with a somewhat sour taste and aroma that intensifies as the cheese ages.
- Taleggio – is a cheese dating from early Roman times. They produce it in autumn and winter using calves milk. The cheese ripens for six to ten weeks on wood shelves. Once a week, it receives a seawater wash to prevent mold growth and form the orange crust. They grate it on salads or bruschetta or melt it into recipes like risotto.
New
- Bitto – is from cow’s milk. Producing the cheese only in the summer months when the cows are feeding in the high alpine meadows. The young cheese has a soft texture with small holes and a gentle scent. If they are going to age it, they will add a small amount of goat’s milk. By the second year, it is hard and crumbly, with a more robust taste that’s a little spicy.
- Formai de Mut dell’ Alta Valle brembana – is a cow’s milk from the high pasture lands of the Val Brembana. They create small quantities making it hard to find. The young version has a light floral taste. As it ages, it develops a more fragrant smell and fruitiness in its flavor.
Medium
- Grana Padano – is similar to parmesan, using unpasteurized cow’s milk and usually aging it for two years. The end product is a dry, flaking grana (grainy) cheese with a sweet flavor. As the cheese ages, the taste becomes savory and complex.
- Provolona Valpadana – is a semi-hard whole cow’s milk cheese that can be sweet (mild) or spicy (piccante.) It may be a table cheese or a key ingredient in many local recipes.
Sharp
- Salva Cremasco – this cheese comes from the cow’s milk after they extract the cream. Instead of pouring it out, they salva (save) the liquid after creaming (cremasco). They age it for more extended periods. The lack of cream makes the texture dry and the taste fresh and sharp—a good cheese with wine or fruit.
- Gorgonzola – is a cheese they make with unskimmed cows milk in the village of Gorgonzola, 22 miles from Bergamo. The texture can be buttery, crumbly, or firm. It develops a bite from the adding of bacteria, which also produces blue veins.
- Strachitund Val taleggio – From a valley not far from gorgonzola comes a similar cow milks cheese. They use two batches of milk (a day apart), creating two different types of curd, one warm, one cold. They layer both curds into the molds creating a different texture. The add bacteria, but it usually does not produce as complicated a pattern as in gorgonzola. The end product is a favorite in polenta and risotto recipes. curds
Slow Food Cheese
The Slow Food Foundation is an attempt to save traditional foods and wine that face extinction. There are three from the Bergamo area:
Bitto Storica – is similar to the Bitto above, but it goes even further. Only about 12 farms are producing this cheese. The cows and goats eat from the fields (free-range.) They milk the animals on-site and begin the cheesemaking right there to guarantee the freshness. You can find the Orobico goats, specifically in the Bergamo Alps. They may not add any additives or bacteria. And they only produce it between June 1 and September 30. The cheese must age a minimum of seven days, but many mature them a minimum of five years.
Valtorta Agrì – is an unusual whole-milk cow cheese from uncooked curd. It is very labor-intensive, which is part of the reason it is on the endangered list. There is a co-op of approximately 12 farms still making the soft sweet cheese.
Stracchino all’antica – is also labor-intensive milk from whole milk that they do not cook. Using part coagulation, part rennet to firm the cheese, they put the cheese into molds for ripening. They store them in a warm, high-humidity space until the rinds begin to set. Then they dry-salt the cheese and let them age for approximately 20 days.
These are not the only cheeses from this area. There are numerous other cow and goat milk cheeses to sample. But taste Bergamo cheese when you’re there.
Cured Meats
Salami is a staple of the Bergamo diet, and many are certified D.O.P., I.G.P., and P.A.T. ( Traditional Craft Product). And there are the sausages and bacon. Wait until you taste Bergamo bacon, with herbs in it.
- Coppa (capocollo) P.D.O.
- Salame Piacentino P.D.O.
- Salame Brianza D.O.P.
- Bresaola of Valtellina P.D.O.
- Cacciatorini Sausages D.O.P.
- Salame d’ora dl Mortara I.G.P.
- Salame dl Varzi D.O.P.
Is it wrong to sit and taste Bergamo meat and cheeses for the better part of an afternoon? If it is, then I don’t want to be right. And I will do it again the first chance I get.
Fruit and Vegetables.
At one time, every house had a garden either on the property or along the walls. Then came the markets in the middle of town where people would purchase their fruits and vegetables. Unfortunately, those markets no longer exist in the Upper Town. And only appear one or two days in the modern lower town. Today, many people buy them at the grocery store.
Although Lombardy has I.G.P. pears and apples, neither grows in the vicinity of Bergamo. That does not mean that Bergamo does not have good fruits or vegetables. Just the opposite, you need to taste Bergamo produce and see how good it is.
The Slow Food Foundation has several products in the Bergamo area that they are keeping an eye on.
- Bergamo Escarole – grows only in Bergamo and specifically inside the old walls where they receive protection from winter weather. It is painstakingly hands-on work. The end product is a light, crunchy leaf, not as bitter as mass-produced escarole.
- Calvenzano Melons – were almost to the point of extinction due to the faster-growing, enhanced melons on the market. They are staging a comeback thanks to one of the oldest Agricultural coops in Italy. If you are anywhere near Lombardy in July, you need to taste Bergamo melon fresh off the vine.
And there is more good news about the local Bergamo produce scene. A local market, with the blessing of the Slow Food Foundation, now operates two Saturdays of the month. The Mercato della Terra di Bergamo is next to the opera house in the Piazza Matteotti.
Taste Bergamo Specialties.
Although pasta is not the king of Lombardy, you will find it. Here, the kings are prime beef and port from the plains. The fruits of the farm, produce, and grain is next.
Starters
- Medaglioni Dorati dal Morbido Ripieno – is a local version of fried cheese. Using a cheese, such as the provolone Valpadana D.O.P., they pad it with cornflour before frying.
- Scarpinocc de Par – is pasta that looks like a shoe (scarpe) (Maybe an elf shoe??) with cheese, garlic, and bread filling.
Cereals
Am I going all the way to Northern Italy for breakfast food? These cereals you will. They play a big part in the Bergamo diet, and not at breakfast.
We are not talking frosty, fruity clusters with marshmallows; we are talking buckwheat, corn, and rice.
Did you know Italy is the largest rice producer in Europe? Much of it comes from southern Lombardy and nearby regions. Two of the most popular local kinds of rice in the Bergamo area are Arborio and Carnaroli. You probably know them better by their finished product name, risotto.
Corn from the Bergamo area becomes corn flour. It is the essential ingredient in one of the areas star dishes, polenta. They serve polenta hot as a porridge with or without other vegetables or meat. When it cools, it hardens into a sliceable piece which you can eat as is or layer with toppings.
When you find pasta in Bergamo, there is a strong chance that it will contain buckwheat flour from Teglio.
Wait until you taste Bergamo risotto, polenta, and pasta.
Entrees Include:
- Casonsèi de la Bergamasca – is shell pasta with a filling of cheese, beef, sausage, amaretto cookies, raisins, and pears. You can taste Bergamo in every bite.
- Risotto alla Bergamasca – is risotto rice in a chicken or vegetable broth with only vegetables.
- Polenta Taragna – uses a mixture of cornmeal and buckwheat flour. To this, they add butter and casera, a semi-skimmed cows’ milk cheese. Taragna refers to the wooden spoon they used to stir it.
- Polenta e Osei – is tricky as there are two versions. We are talking about the entree version. They slow-roast small birds, such as quail, over an open fire. Then, they slice the birds, serve with gravy, and traditional polenta (think cornbread.)
Other main courses include many variations with risotto, polenta, or pasta, usually depending on what is in season. It may be vegetables, meat, even fish. Soups and stews are very popular.
Other dishes you should find on the menu, while not from Bergamo, include Cotoletta, Osso Buco, and Cassoeula.
Seafood
Bergamo is a long way from the sea. If you see seafood on a menu, you may be in a restaurant for tourists. However, there are exceptions. Snails are a favorite food item, although not necessarily native. Freshwater fish from the rivers and nearby lakes are an excellent option. They are grilled, with the local P.D.O. Olive oil is a traditional presentation.
Dolce (sweets)
- Polenta e Osei – for dessert? Remember, I said there were two versions? A local baker came up with this in 1910. Using layers of sponge cake with chocolate hazelnut filling, they form a dome. Yellow marzipan covers the cake, making it look like a big spoonful of polenta. Almond paste little birds (Osei) sit on top. It is the town’s trademark dessert and a taste Bergamo has made famous. That means you have to try it, regardless of calories.
- La Torta del Donizetti (Turta del Donizet) – is a tribute to the hometown composer. The batter has candied pineapple, apricots, and maraschino cherries in the mix. They shape it like a doughnut and dust with icing sugar.
- Turta de Trèi de la Bergamasca – is vanilla and almond shortcrust pastry. In Treviglio, just south of Bergamo, they call it Torta di Treviglio.
- Stracciatella Ice Cream – is from Bergamo. This sweet is a taste Bergamo is famous for, so you have to try it. As the legend goes… in 1961, while making stracciatella soup (broth and stringy egg), the owner has a vision. He runs to his nearby ice cream shop and experiments on putting torn strips (stracciare) of chocolate into vanilla ice cream.
Click on the orange link to read more about Italian cuisine.
Beverages
The sparkling water from San Pellegrino is the most famous in the area. There are several other local brands of mineral waters not as renowned.
Bergamo does not have any spirits they can call their own. Yes, there is homemade grappa and vin santo, but you can find that anywhere in Italy.
Taste Bergamo Beer
Bergamo is two hours drive from the Piedmont region where Italy’s craft beer explosion began. It is only one hour’s drive from where the first gastropub in Italy opened. So it stands to reason that craft beers have come to Bergamo.
In the Bergamo area, at last count, there were ten breweries (Birrificio) producing almost 100 different artisan beers. Many are seasonal, so not available year-round. You can find some of them at restaurants and cafes around town. The bars and gastropubs (pub gastronomico) will have a more extensive selection. As they are changing beers daily, it is best to ask the local bartender or server what’s current. For the beer lover, you will not believe the taste Bergamo has brought to beer.
Bergamo Wine
We can not talk about wine in the Bergamo region without hauling out the D.O.C. label.
Moscato di Scanzo D.O.C.G.
As a D.O.C.G. region, there are strict conditions on production. These include the maximum yields, ripeness levels at harvest, minimum final alcohol levels, and residual sugar levels.
It contains only juice from Moscato di Scanzo grapes. The grapes come solely from the vineyards around Scanzorosciate, a town four miles east of Bergamo. It is Italy’s smallest D.O.C., measuring just over 76 acres. The area may be where Romans began planting vines after pushing the previous inhabitants out. (circa 56 B.C.) After the Phylloxera crisis, the grape was almost extinct. It is a sweet, velvety wine with an aroma of honey.
Valcalepio D.O.C.
Valcalepio is the local wine of Bergamo. The traditional grapes include Marzemino, Rossolo, and Groppello. Today, they add other grapes to balance flavors.
There are two distinct growing zones producing wines of a different character. The soil is a clay/chalk composition.
- Valcalepio Rosso D.O.C. – is a mixture of local Merlot and Cabernet grapes. It includes a minimum of six months in oak barrels before bottling. It is a full dry red with black cherry hints.
- Valcalepio Bianco D.O.C. – is a mixture of local Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay grapes and a small part Pinot Grigio. It ages for six months in oak barrels and another six months in the bottle. It is a dry white wine with a delicate fruity bouquet.
Terre del Colleoni D.O.C.
This DOC covers the same area as the Valcalepio DOC. WHAT? The Valcalepio DOC applies to wines where they mix two or more grapes. The Terre del Colleoni DOC applies to new varietal wines, those made with a single type of grape. These are becoming popular in Italy.
Franciacorta D.O.C.G.
Across the Oglio River from Valcalepio is the Franciacorta vineyards.
Here they strictly control the growth of Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanche, and Chardonnay grapes for making the local sparkling wine.
Wineries are not open to wander in. You should make reservations in advance, no less than two days before you wish to visit. Prices vary from winery to winery. Most begin at around 20 euros. If you are in the area, you need to taste Bergamo wines.
Taste Bergamo Summary.
Are these all the traditional foods and beverages of Bergamo? Hardly! But these will keep you busy for a few days and give you an insight into the local cuisine.
So many people make Bergamo a day trip, or worse, just pass through on the way somewhere else. The town and surrounding area are lovely. There is incredible food, beer, and wine. Milan is an hour’s drive away, and the lake of Como not much further. Why not plan to spend at least two days and see, experience, and taste Bergamo?