Table of Contents
NOT SO ANCIENT WINE.
THE TURN OF THE 20TH CENTURY.
THE RISE OF THE SUPER WINES.
ITALIAN WINE TODAY.
SUMMARY.
Beers of Italy. Italian Spirits.
Italian wines go back just a few years. Long before man, grapes are growing wild on a peninsula that will one day go by the name Italy.
Ancient Italian Wine.
The time is somewhere around 12000 BC. The Mycenaean people are spreading westward, find grapes, and start making wine. Wine is not new to them; they have been producing wine back home in Greece for hundreds of years.
1100 BC. to 9th Century BC. – Greece and its outposts go through a Dark Ages. Instead of moving forward, they may go back a few steps. Everything comes to a halt.
Between 800 – 750 BC, The Greeks are on the move again. This time, they are arriving on the southern tip of the mainland and the island of Sicily.
By the time of the Rome Republic (around 509 BC.) Roman wine is flourishing. Also, To protect this, Rome makes wine-producing illegal in the provinces, so they soon have a monopoly on wine production.
6th century BC. Demand for Italian wine is so high that Rome begins to relax the ban on wine-producing. Greeks in the area of Gaul (today France) began cultivating new vines.
Italian Wine, not so Ancient.
Continuing for the next several thousand years, the Roman Empire and its wine production grow.
Then around 476 AD, the Western Roman Empire falls, and the politicians are no longer in control. The church picks up the pieces. They are the only ones with the money and protection of the Holy Roman Empire to keep wine production going through these turbulent times.
Then the Holy Roman Empire begins to crumble around 1648. As a result, rulers and other nobility began buying up vineyards. This buying spree lasts a short time as the poor start revolting. It has something to do with all work and no food.
Keep in mind that Italy (as we know it today) is passing back and forth under different conquerors during this time.
Fast forward to 1871, most of the peninsula is under the rule of the Kingdom of Italy. Italian wines are back where they belong. Nothing can change that, right?
The Phylloxera epidemic in England is now jumping the Channel and starting to devour mainland Europe. Although Italian vineyards do not suffer the severe devastation the French wineries do, they still lose a large percentage of vines, especially in the north.
The Turn of the Twentieth Century.
As a result of the epidemic, the world needs wine. Italy replants quickly, intending to produce a LOT of wine quickly. The Italian wine industry is thriving, and soon Italy is a significant source of cheap table wine. Are they the winners?
In the 1960s, The Italian government creates a two-level “quality” grading law. Why? So they can “protect quality.” Translating this into English it means to tax the wine producers. There is still table wine, which has few restrictions. The rest fall under these two.
- The DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) will be for better quality wines than table wine.
- DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) will be for the highest quality wines.
That is to say, that with each new level, there are more restrictions and higher fees. It is corrupt almost from day one. It creates a surplus of frustration, but very little good Italian wine.
The rise of the Super Wines.
Therefore in Chianti, the DOC says Chianti wines must now include a 20% white wine blend. This rule leads to cheaper production costs, but the quality begins to sink.
As a result, the rebel winemakers, not wanting to add the white wine, start production of impressive red wines. They by-pass the white fillers so they cannot call them “Chianti.”
To save their reputations and a lot of taxes, they call them Vino da Tavola (table wine).
The American press, crazy for these new bold red wines, refuses to call them table wines. They pen the name, “Super Tuscans.” It is not long before other regions have “super” table wines.
In later years, realizing they were ruining the Chianti reputation, the government eased a few of the regulations.
But they were not quitting. The government is back in the 1990s with IGT, Indicazione Geografica Tipica (Geographical Indication). This label is a way to tax the “super” wines.
Italian wine today.
Today, Italy produces about 20% of the world’s wine. Most years just behind France, the number one producer.
More Catagories.
In addition to DOCs and other indicators, there are even more categories to add confusion.
- Classico – These grapes come from the oldest section of the protected territory.
- Superiore – is going to have a higher alcohol volume than regular wines in the DOP. They are generally of a higher quality.
- Riserva – This designates the vintages the winemakers think are best.
Italy has the blessing of Bacchus (the Roman god of wine.) Italy has mountains in the colder north and rolling hills in the warmer south. On either side, she has seas to assist with the moderating climate.
There Has To Be An Easier Way.
So I take the DOC, add the superior, divide by the IGT.
I think by focusing on the region, the from which the wine comes, instead of the label, may tell you more about the wine.
Some good news, The Italian wine regions are the same as the administrative regions, which help clarify where they originate.
Unfortunately, each region makes red and white wines, so it’s not going to be that cut and dry. Then, some areas within the same region make different reds and whites. And then we add the sparkling wines, prosecco, and spumante. (That’s just mentioning the white ones.)
Starting from the top, let’s look at each region and which look at each area, and the Italian wines they do well.
Northwest.
- Aosta Valley – Bordering the Alps and France, try the white (Petite Arvine) and sparkling wines. Also, try the red Petit Rouge.
- Piedmont (Piemonte) – Is an area also bordering the Alps and France. Best known for reds – Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, and Dolcetto. Try the sparkling Asti Spumante. White wine drinkers should try the Moscato Bianco and the Cortese.
- Liguria – In between Provence on one side and Tuscany on the other. Here, try light white wines from the Vermentino grape. I’m sure there is a law (I can’t find it right now) that says you must drink this while sitting on a terrace overlooking the Italian Riviera. Probably the most famous reds are the Sangiovese. If you can, try to find a local red using the Rossese grape, or a white from the Pigato grape. These wines never seem to make it out of this region.
- Lombardia (Lombardy) – This area is just south of Switzerland. They specialize in sparkling red Bonarda and red Pinot Nero. Their white Grasevina wines are similar to a Riesling.
Northeast.
- Trentino-South Tyrol – Visit here if you want to know how a Pinot Grigio should taste. Also, try the Trento sparkling wine. For red wine drinkers, there are the heavier Teroldego and Lagreins. The Schiava is a lighter red from the region.
- Friuli-Venezia Giulia – The star wines from this region are the whites, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon. For red drinkers, try the Refosco and Merlot. Finish your day of wine tasting with a sparkling glass of local Prosecco.
- Veneto – This is the land of white Soave and sparkling Prosecco. The red wines include Valpolicella, Amarone, and Bardolino.
- Emilia-Romagna – Lambrusco. Forget what you think you know. If you have not tasted it in Italy, you have not had it. Sangiovese is also a favorite red. Albana is the most popular white.
Central.
- Toscana – Tuscany is another critical wine-producing region. Chianti, Montalcino, and the Vino Nobile are the big reds. And of course, when in Tuscany, you must try the Super Tuscans. For the white drinkers, try Vernaccia and the dessert wine Vin Santo.
- Marche – Hiding on the Adriatic, try the tasty Sangiovese and Montepulciano reds. Also, the white Verdicchio wines complement the local seafood. (Matelica and Jesi).
- Umbria – Red wines from the Sangiovese and Sagrantino grapes. Get your mouth ready for noticeable tannins. Orvieto is the man white using Grechetto grapes.
- Lazio – This area, once better known for quantity over quality, is changing. Predominantly whites, including Frascati, Grechetto, and Bellone. Red wine drinkers should sample Cesanese (perhaps the table red wine of the Caesars) if you can find it. Then there are the “Super Lazio” reds with blends of Sangiovese, Cabernet, and Merlot.
- Abruzzo – The wines here predominantly go into mixing. The best red would be the Montepulciano. For the white drinkers, the Trebbiano.
- Molise – Perhaps one of Italy’s best kept secrets. This lack of popularity may be because it is not on the way to anywhere else. Some of the best reds from this area are the Montepulciano and Sangiovese. Molise has a less-known red wine made from the Tintilia grape. There is also a white wine made from the Trebbiano grape, but this is not a reason to come here.
Southern.
- Campania – is another region that has several varieties. For the red drinker, there is Aglianico. White drinkers may enjoy the wines from the Falanghina grape.
- Basilicata – The volcanic soil enhances flavors. The red Aglianicos are good when young. They are even better when older. The white Bianco Malvasia is the most popular, but not the reason to visit Basilicata. It is a tasty “house” white, at least for now.
- Puglia – This is Italy’s largest wine-producing region. Reds are the leading wine with the local Primitivo (like a Zinfandel), the most popular of the reds. The reds from the Negroamaro grape are a close second.
- Calabria – This is the tip of the boot. The best red and rose wines come from its Gaglioppo grape. If you can find it, the Greco di Bianco (white wine of the Greeks) is a sweet white worth trying. Also, visit Ciro, which may have the oldest vineyards in all of Italy.
Islands.
- Sicily – In the western port town of Marsala, you can taste the namesake wine which they make the correct way. Forget what you think it should be. As a dessert or aperitivo fortified wine. The red Nero d’avola and Frappato wines are a must-try. The Carricante white wines from the Mt Etna area have been around for thousands of years, for a reason. Also, try white Inzolia and Grillo wines.
- Sardinia – Italy’s other island produces excellent white and red wines. The white Vermentino di Gallura is perfect for sipping by the sea. Torbato, if you can find it, is an ideal partner for an antipasto of local fish. Vernaccia is another white to try. For Sardinia reds, try their version of the Malvasia, Carignano, and Cagnulari wines.
So, what to take away?
There are 500+ varieties of grapes grown in Italy. Many of these grapes do not grow anywhere else in the world.
Did I mention, there are over 5,900 wineries (on the register) in Italy?
I can hear you now. How can I possibly keep all these wines straight? You can’t!
How do I know which wine to order? You don’t!
Understand, wine is as much a “part” of Italy as the Colosseum.
However, one of the neat things about waiters in Italy is they know Italian wine.
I usually stick with the house (local) wine, which pairs well with the local food.
If I am going to do several courses and want to pair wines, then it’s the waiter to the rescue.
Also, it is not that uncommon, especially when you are in smaller restaurants, to have the chef come out and discuss your menu. Not only will they choose the food, but will recommend which wines go with which course.
In short, keep calm and enjoy the wine.
Just keep calm and enjoy the wine at hand.