Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT CHANIA
GOING GREEK
NEARBY CHANIA
Chania (Hania or sometimes Xania) is one of the many charming villages and towns that dot Crete. It is the capital of Western Crete and sits on the northwest coast of Crete. It is approximately two hours’ drive west from the capital city of Heraklion.
Much of its charm comes from the 14th-century Venetian harbor with its pedestrian waterfront. There are nearby narrow streets you can lose yourself in, admiring tavernas and boutiques.
Ancient Chania.
You can see Chania on foot in several areas. Ruins of the ancient city of Kydonia, dating to 3650 B.C. (early Minoan), are under the modern-day town of Chania. Numerous ceramics and architectural buildings dating from this period are popping up at the Choros Minoiki Kidonia archaeological site. It is on the Kastelli hill (you can observe part of it from Kanevaro Street, a six-minute walk from the Venetian Harbor.
They find the remains of spacious well-built homes. There are floor decorations, painted walls, and quality ceramic products. These signs indicate it was an essential Early Minoan center.
Other excavations show the town was a palatial center by the Middle Minoan period (2200-1580 B.C.). Remains of ceramics and other items indicate they were trading with cities in other parts of Crete. The few ruins from this period also suggest it is an agricultural economy.
By the Late Minoan period (1580-1070 B.C.), the city is a major commercial port. This boom is due to the development of crafts and trade. Results prove they were trading with ports from Italy to Egypt. It develops the “Workshop of Kydonia,” a ceramic workshop, whose pieces they are finding as far away as Patras on the west side of the Peloponnese, Cyprus, and Sardinia.
One hundred clay tablets in Linear A explain that fire levels the city in 1450 B.C., but they quickly rebuild. They indicate there may have been a palace for the administrative business of the town.
Many of these items, along with the Bishop seal, can be seen in the Archaeological Museum of Chania. It is a five-minute walk from the archeological site.
Too Big For Their Good.
By 1070 B.C., Kydonia has drawn the attention of other cities, predominantly Athens. They see Chania as an ATM. Sieges go on back and forth in an attempt to grab the cities wealth. In 429 B.C. the Athenians, with help from the town of Polichni, plunder the city, taking much of its wealth, but not control. It looks like Kydonia can defend itself. They ride out the Hellenistic Period (323 B.C. – 31 B.C.) untouched. Almost.
The Guys From Rome
Around 100 B.C. the Romans invade during their real estate shopping spree to the east. They see Chania as a lovely addition to their portfolio. For the next 30 years, Kydonia manages to keep them out of the city. By 69 B.C. they are out of funds and supplies. The Romans troops are now twice their size and strength. The Romans ransack the town and then move on. By 30 B.C. they have lost interest in most of the Greek islands. Kydonia becomes an independent city with its currency. The town immediately went through a renaissance.
Artifacts from the Hellenistic and Roman periods are impressive but few. Around Chania, they include sculptures, ceramic ovens, and many buildings with mosaics intact. Aptera and the museum are both great places to see them.
Not so Ancient
By 330 A.D. the island comes under the new Byzantine (Eastern Roman) Empire forming in Constantinople. Kydonia is the most influential city in the region. Because of this, it receives the designation as the seat of the Diocese. This title is a new position within the new Christian religion spreading from Constantinople.
While excavating around the Panagia Trimartiri Cathedral (AKA, the Venetian Cathedral of the Virgin, Assumption of the Virgin, and 30 or 40 other names), they think they came across remnants of the Bishopric of Kydonia. (Bishop’s Palace.) If someone says cathedral, they probably mean this church. Except for being a soap factory during the Ottoman occupation, there has been a cathedral here since the 14th century. The current building, dating from 1860. The interior includes large icons and a bell from the Czar of Russia.
Land grabs are becoming more common. So by the 7th century, the Byzantines, fortify the walls built by the Kydonians starting back in 1100 B.C. They dig a trench around the Castelli hill, making it an island. They fill in the “moat” years later for land. But, you can see small sections of these Byzantine Walls along Sifaka Street south of the Kastelli.
The Arabs
Unfortunately, this was not enough, and by 824, the Saracens (Arabs) occupied Crete. They destroyed most of Kydonia by 828 A.D. That is why most of the Hellenic and Roman sites are no longer standing. Luckily, there are artifacts in the museum.
The Arabs would remain in control for the next 140 years. During this time, they destroy many of the Byzantine structures. Very little archaeological evidence is visible from these years.
Byzantines, Take Two
By 961, the Byzantines are back, and Chania is becoming an important economic and commercial port again. The seat of the Diocese moves to the Agia and the Byzantine church of the Dormition (AKA Trimartiri, Cathedral, etc.) dating from the 5th century A.D.
The Byzantine’s main objective is to restore the economic, social, and religious tranquility to the island. They see Chania as a significant town and start importing noble families from Constantinople. They also urge the Catholics to rebuild the churches.
One of these was the monastery of St. John the Theologian, dating from the 7th century A.D. It is a little east of the city on the ruins of the ancient city of Aptera. It sits next to huge Roman cisterns from Aptera. Many pieces of Aptera went into the building. The monastery was in use until 1964 when the few remaining monks abandoned it for good.
For more Byzantine history, check out the Byzantine and Post Byzantine Collection near the harbor.
This museum building is impressive in itself. It started as the church of the monastery (circa 15th century.) The Ottomans do some redecorating and make it into the mosque of Aga Khan.
Here you can see Chania through collections of historical and artistic finds from the Byzantine and post-Byzantine times. It is not a huge museum, but the objects on display are perfect. They include a mosaic floor from a 6th-century basilica. There are excellent examples of frescoes, icons, wall hangings, and many other impressive pieces.
The Fourth Crusade
The forces of the Pope, mistake(?) Constantinople as Jerusalem and sack it in 1204.
A landrush begins to split up the spoils of the Byzantine Empire. Crete goes to a noble who sells it to the Republic of Venice. The Genovese see Chania and all of Crete as a prize. They swoop in and collect if for themselves before Venice can take control. It will take Venice eight years to secure their colony.
Venetian Rule.
The Venetians remain on Crete for more than four centuries. During this time, the island experiences a Renaissance thanks to Venice’s wealth. The name Chania (La Canea) begins to appear on maps and documents, but no one is quite sure from where.
Chania goes back and forth between the Genoese and the Venetians until 1266. Fearing defeat, the Genoese burn the city to the ground and go back to Genoa. The Venetians begin an aggressive rebuilding and make Chania the seat of the regional commander.
Beautiful Venetian buildings start rising; They include the palace of the regional commander and an update on the Cathedral of the Virgin Mary, (Trimartiri,) we see today.
Homes with outside stairs go up along the narrow streets. They lay out a grid of roads, including the main street, il Corso (today’s Kanevaro Street.) Using building materials from previous structures, they built palaces and noble residences around the Corso.
The 1300s
The Dominicans erect the Monastery and Church of Agios (Saint) Nicholas in 1320 A.D.
The 1400s
The Venetians built the Moro Shipyard in 1467. By 1593, there are 16 shipyards. This boatyard is a crucial location saving the Venetian navy from having to sail back to Venice for repairs. Many of these arsenals (buildings) are still visible in the harbor.
The 1500s
The Greek Orthodox church begins building the Gouverneto Monastery (Our Lady of the Angels) in 1537 on the Akrotiri peninsula. In those days, it would have been more than four hours walk from town. Built by the Venetians, over the years, it receives additional architectural styles, including Baroque. It was at one time the largest monastery on Crete and perhaps the oldest still in operation.
There are strict rules, including no smoking or photography. They usually close to the public on Wednesdays and Fridays.
The Greek Orthodox also begin the Monastery of Chrysopigi south and west of town around 1550. During the Ottoman occupation, the Turks did significant damage to the property.
The Monks refurbish the monastery after the expulsion. Then the Germans use it as a command center during World War II, doing even more damage. It goes into decline after the war until it became a convent in 1976.
The sisters have revitalized the property and gardens. They sell their garden produce and also run an Ecclesiastical and Folk Museum.
In 1551, the Venetian governor Loredan unveiled a new fountain in the Plaka by the harbor. The Venetian fountain is still there.
Circa 1595 A.D., the Franciscans are building the Monastery of Agios Fragkiskos. It will receive many additions over the years, reflecting the architecture of that time. Today it is home to the Archeological museum.
Rumbling from the East
Starting in the middle of the 16th century, stories about Ottoman conquests in the east reached Chania.
As a precaution, they fortify the existing Venetian walls. They build the imposing Firka Fortress and a string of ramparts San Salvatore, Santa Caterina, Pruli, Schiavo, Lando, Santa Lucia, Sabbionara, and San Nicola. (The earthworks in bold are still visible as are some of the walls on the west side of town.)
Forts go up on Theodorou and Gramboussa Island, and at Souda Bay.
The Venetian Harbor and Moro shipyard get additional fortification. They build additional Venetian Neoria, arched boat houses for storage and repair.
The 1600s
Topping off the harbor is an updated lighthouse which they first light in 1601.
They built new churches, including The Temple of Agios Rokkos, in 1630 on Splantzia square. He was the Saint against the plague, single men, and dogs. Temples to him usually came after a plague epidemic. They expand the city waterworks, including new water tanks.
The relationship between the Catholics and the Orthodox is fragile. They do not like each other, but they know they need each other if the Ottomans attack.
The Catholics give the Orthodox permission to build the Agia Triada Monastery (Monastery of Agia Triada Tsangarolon) Construction begins in 1613 in Akrotiri, just east of town. You can visit the monastery, its library, and the Icon Museum. The monks also sell homemade wine and olive oil from time to time.
There is an uneasy peace.
The Ottomans.
In 1645, The Ottomans took Chania. For the next 24 years, the Cretan War, pitting Venice, and the Christians against the Ottomans will go on. Venice loses Candia (Heraklion,) the last stronghold, in 1669. It was effortless for the Ottomans to defend the island using the Venetian fortifications, The Ottomans will hold the island for the next 160 years.
Their plan is not to rebuild but remodel. The Ottomans see Chania as an easy fix. You will see Chania has several buildings with multiple architectures.
Starting with the palace of the Venetian regional commander, they make it their command center. They add minarets to the Cathedral of the Virgin Mary and Church of Saint Nicholas. All Catholic monasteries become mosques.
The Mosque Küçük Hassan (or Gialisi Tzami – mosque to the sea) is the only remaining mosque in Chania. They build it on the site of a preexisting Christian temple soon after the Ottoman conquest.
There was a lovely garden surrounding the mosque where they bury the local Ottoman rulers. After Crete became part of Greece in 1908, the Ottomans began returning to Turkey. By 1923 the mosque is empty. The Greeks did not demolish the minaret until 1939.
Also, they build public fountains and baths. Christians and Jews settle mainly in the western districts, in Topana and the so-called Jewish Quarter. The Ottomans in the east.
Greek War of Independence
The Peloponesse of Greece found itself at war in 1821, attempting to push the Ottomans out of their country. Separate uprisings soon followed in Crete, Central Greece, and Macedonia. Crete’s isolation from other Greek armies did not help. The Ottomans call on Egypt for additional forces, and soon they dominate Crete.
The Egyptians Take Over
When Greece became an independent, sovereign state in 1830, Crete is not part of it. Worse, for their help in suppressing Crete, the Ottomans give Egypt control of Crete.
The Egyptians install tanneries in the Tabakaria district of town. Even after they leave, the tanneries remain. By 1850, there are more than 80 tanneries. Today the number is down to five or six. There is little of this area’s history left.
Back to Egypt
The Convention of London (1840) gave control of Crete back to the Ottomans. This move is an attempt to stabilize the Ottoman Empire, which was faltering. The Cretans rose up three different times after this, the longest and strongest beginning in 1866 and lasting three years. Unfortunately, the Ottomans held onto the fortified Chania, Rethymno, Irakleio (Heraklion), and Agios Nikolaos.
In 1851, Chania became the capital of Crete. The Sultan issues sufficient rights to Christians in 1856
But, he is not ready to turn over control. In 1872 they built the Fort of Itzedin overlooking the approach to Chania and Souda Bay harbors.
After the liberation from the Ottomans, the fortress becomes a prison. Here they place political opponents, and prisoners sentenced to death.
It closes during the Second World War. Opening again in 1948, it was standing room only for political prisoners. This prison operates until the fall of the Greek military junta in 1974.
Today, the local authorities are restoring the fortress. They also perform summer music concerts outside.
Birth of a National Leader
In 1864, Eleftherios Venizelos was born near Chania. He will go on to play a significant part in bringing the island of Crete together and then pushing its union with Greece. They elect him Prime Minister of Greece eight ( not concurrent) times. He receives credit for modernizing the Greek society, and the military.
In the Chalepa neighborhood of Chania, you can see his boyhood home, which is now the Residence – Museum Eleftherios K. Venizelos.
Chalepa Neighborhood
On the same street as the residence is the Palace of Prince George. In 1898, with the Turkish troops leaving, The Cretans started a national government. Prince George is the first High Commissioner. His base is this house, next door to the Venizelos residence (museum.) The last time I was there, it was in pressing need of TLC.
Just beyond the “palace” (which is a lovely home, not a palace,) is what was the French School. The main building dates from 1858. The St. Joseph Catholic Church bought the building in 1895 to house the French school. Girls from the city’s best families learn the French language, as well as other lessons deemed necessary for upper-class ladies. It remained in operation as the French School until the end of the 1970s. Today it is the property of the University of Chania. On my last visit, it also needed some landscaping.
I believe the city is missing out here. By combining this building with the palace and residence, they could present an incredible glimpse into the early 1900s.
While in the Chalepa area, take a walk to the Church of Saint Mary Magdalene. The 1903 Russian-style church, in the middle of a garden, looks out of place with its domed steeple. With the residence behind you, cross the street to Dagkli Street. The church is a 2-minute walk on your right.
A ten-minute drive will bring you to his grave on a hill with a beautiful view of the city. Adjacent is the Greek Orthodox church of Ekklisia Profitis Ilias (Holy Prophet Elias.)
Enough is Enough.
The Cretans continue to riot on and off until 1897. Finally, Great Britain, France, Italy, and Russia send in troops to maintain order.
Continued rioting leads to a union with Greece in 1908. The International World will not recognize it for another five years.
In 1908 the city decided to build a new market in an area that needs a makeover. At the time, this area was at the edge of the town. The Chania Municipal Market opened in 1913. In the early days, it was the social center for the city. The butchers were in the eastern wing, the fishmongers in the west. Fruits, vegetables, and other products were in the north and south.
Today, most of the fishmongers are in Souda. Many of the produce vendors only go to the daily neighborhood markets. There are a lot of cheesy souvenir shops in their place. However, you can still do a quasi-progressive lunch in the market, eating as you go. The small restaurants have incredible meals made with (guess) fresh everything.
World War II
Starting on the morning of May 20, 1941, Nazi Germany begins an airborne invasion over Crete. Civilians support the Greek and other Allied forces, in defending the island. At the end of the first day, the Germans have massive casualties. It is looking like the Allied troops would block the invasion.
Unfortunately, the next day, the Germans did everything right. By afternoon, they take control of an airfield on the western end of the island. By doing this, they could land additional forces. The bombarding destroyed many of the Venetian and Ottoman monuments in Chania. Within ten days, the Battle of Crete was over.
Due to the resistance from the civilian population, the Germans shoot civilians at random. The Germans would remain on Crete until May of 1945.
After the Battle
In Souda Bay is the Souda Bay Allied War Cemetery. Although there are 19 soldiers of World War I and 37 from the post-war era, the majority of the other 1527 buried here are from World War II. Specifically from the Battle of Crete. The graves are in order by country. More than 800 from the United Kingdom, over 400 from New Zealand, and close to 200 from Australia.
Don’t the Greeks like Americans? The Battle of Crete took place during May of 1941. The USA did not enter the war until December of that year. There are too many American (and other) War cemeteries in Europe without one here.
See Chania Today
Tourism is the number one industry today. The nearby port of Souda Bay is now a cruise destination. International flights arrive daily at the Chania International airport. There are nearby beaches, resorts, and vacation rentals.
The Ghetto
Today, not much remains of the Jewish Ghetto. Of the two synagogues, the one for the Sephardic Jews (from Spain and Portugal) disappears under the German bombing. The other was for the Romaniote Jews (those who could trace their origin back to the Roman empire.) When the Germans arrest the Jewish Cretans in May of 1944, there is no longer a need for this synagogue. Enroute to the concentration camps of Auschwitz, these Jews all perish when a British submarine torpedoes their prisoner ship.
In the mid-1990s, the descendant of a previous member restores the abandoned Synagogue of Etz Hayyim. Today there are services for the few Jews who have come to Chania. You can arrange visits. Nearby is Kondilaki street. Once the main road of the Jewish Quarter, today, it is a busy tourist street. Bring some imagination.
Museums
Nautical Museum of Crete – is next to the Firka Fort in the Venetian Harbor area. Here you can see Chania from the water. There is a collection of ship models, nautical instruments, and other artifacts from the Bronze age forward. Upstairs there are additional exhibits of maritime history from the last 100 years.
Make sure to ask if the
The Folklore Museum of Chania is across the street from the cathedral square. The entrance is from the courtyard of the Catholic Church. Look for a cross on top of a nondescript two-story building. Here you can see displays of agricultural equipment used for plowing, sowing, harvesting, and other tasks. Household items include tools for meal preparation, weaving, and embroidery. There are some original examples of the weaving and embroidery on display.
You can also learn about other trades from that time, including those of the cobbler, tailor, and basket-maker. It is a charming way to see Chania in the old days. The museum closes in the afternoon for a few hours. It closes all day on Sunday.
Day Trips from Chania
See Chania first, but there is plenty to see nearby as well.
Half-Day Trips
The Ancient City of Aptera
Ancient Aptera is only 20-minutes drive east of Chania. Dating from the 7th century B.C., it flourished through the classical and Hellenistic periods thanks to its strategic position. It also thrives during the Roman occupation.
In 700 AD, it suffers severe damage during an earthquake, and the people abandon it during the Arab invasions.
Visiting the site today, you can see a section of the fortification, ruins of cisterns, and several houses. Perhaps the highlight is the remains of the Roman theater and the ancient cemetery (necropolis). You can see graves dating from the 4th and 3rd centuries B.C.
Full-Day Trips
Samaria Gorge
The Samaria Gorge may be the longest in Europe, certainly the longest in Greece. This 10-mile jaunt is open for hiking from May to October.
From June to mid-September, the crowds can be a nightmare. If you can avoid this time…
Use public transportation for this one. Catch the earliest bus to Xyloskalo. Regardless of the time of year, there will be crowds and weather opportunities. The bus takes about one hour to make the drive to the end of the road.
There is not much at Xyloskalo. The White Mountain National Park Information Center is where you buy your ticket. Also, it has some information on the park and things you might want to see if you are not doing the gorge. And there is the beginning of the trail.
In the spring and fall, and even summer, you will want a light jacket as you are 4000 feet above sea level, and the sun is not quite reaching this part of the canyon.
The Hike
The first hour of the hike is predominantly downhill to reach the canyon floor. This descent is over endless switchbacks. Practical hiking boots will be your best friend. Watch where you are stepping, but do not miss the views.
Upon reaching the gorge bottom, those who knew to bring lunch usually stop here to refocus and refuel. The walking from here is over different terrain. Also, there are several rocks for sitting on, and by eating now, you lighten the load. Keep it simple, nutritious, and only bring what you need. There is nowhere to purchase food or beverages in the canyon.
For the next eight miles, you will follow the bottom of the gorge over rocky terrain, wooden boardwalks, and numerous bridges. There will also be stream crossings, which is nothing more than jumping from rock to rock.
There are a few deserted farmhouses of people who lived here before it became a park. But what you are looking for are the incredible views.
Just before the halfway point in the gorge hike, you will come to the most famous, most photographed part of the gorge. Here, the 1000 foot high cliffs on either side squeeze together, leaving an opening approximately 10 feet wide. The perspective makes it look even tighter.
You may see local mountain goats on the cliffs above you, but this is not a wildlife tour.
After approximately two more hours, you will reach the small coastal town of Agia Roumeli. You are now on the other (south) side of the island, and the weather will probably be warmer than what you left in Chania. Warm air, sand, and water come to Crete’s south shore from Africa, about 200 miles to the south. Also, the sand here is black volcanic, and by mid-afternoon, when you are exiting the gorge, it is like walking on a grill.
Thoughts
There is an entry fee for the gorge. At the last visit, it was still at five euros. You will need to show your ticket at the beginning and the end. That’s how they know everyone gets out. This system applies if you do the whole gorge or loopback.
RECONFIRM what time the last boat departs Agia Roumeli if you plan to leave that night. Now you have a schedule.
Sunscreen is smart. A bathing suit under your clothes is great for cooling off in the creek and the sea.
There are bees along the trail. No perfume and a fragrance-free soap that morning should keep them at bay.
The gorge opens at 6:00 AM, but you will not be allowed in until it is light.
There are restrooms along the gorge. A small package of tissue and antibacterial wipes is brilliant.
Predicted heat waves or excessive rain may close the gorge. Extreme winds may cancel the boats on the coast. These winds seem to happen more in late fall.
Check before arriving at the park. This information is as correct as I understand it to be. The weather is out of everyone’s control. The park has the final say on everything.
Agia Roumeli
There is not much to this little seaside village that is two blocks deep by three blocks wide. There are some inexpensive places to stay in and approximately six small cafes.
If you are not spending the night, buy your water taxi ticket immediately upon exiting the canyon. Boats are limited, and the last one departs around 6:00 PM, weather dependent.
Then enjoy a glass of the local orange juice to balance your electrolytes. If you are hungry, try something with the local honey. Remember the bees I mentioned?
Besides walking, the only other way out is by boat.
- Take the Chora Sfakion boat (water taxi), which lasts about one hour. From there, it is an hour 45-minute (public) bus ride to Chania. The cost for the boat 12.50 Euro, the bus 8.30 Euro.
- Take the Paleochora boat, which lasts 90 minutes. From there, it is an hour 50-minute bus ride to Chania. The cost of the water taxi 17.20 Euro, the bus 8.30 Euro
- If you want to go west, take the boat to Sougia, which lasts about 40 minutes. From there, it is an hour 50-minute bus ride to Chania. The cost for the ferry 11 Euro, the bus 7.80 Euro
Buses are waiting or arrive very soon after the water taxi does to take you back to Chania. Enjoy the trip. Crete has some incredible scenery.
Overnight At The Beach
You can stay in Agia Roumeli if you want a tranquil setting. The largest motel might be ten rooms, and rates are less than $50 in most places outside of the peak of summer. Beds are comfortable if you are under 30. Food is good, but Michelin will probably not be passing out awards any time soon. The setting and the locals are the reason to stay overnight, or you can’t stomach the thought of another two+ hours of travel to get back to Chania that day.
Polyrrhenia (Polirinia)
This village is just over one-hour drive west of Chania. (Have an excellent map or GPS, as the turn in Kissimos, is not clearly visible.) If you make it to the village, that may be enough.
This Cretan village is in the middle of nowhere, and I love it for that. As you enter the town, you will see the remains of a Roman tower. At the end of the main street are sections of a Roman aqueduct (look down, not up.) Nearby are a couple of Venetian arches. Wander, and you will see a small chapel and some houses built partially into the hillside.
Follow the signs and dirt path to the Acropolis. Your first stop is the Church of 99 Saints. It is a masterpiece of early recycling. It sits on a platform that once held a Greek building. If you look at the walls, they contain stones with ancient inscriptions. Possibly from the former temple. If you go no further, the views from here are not awful. The church also has a typical Greek cemetery.
Those up for a hike can continue to the Acropolis. If the area at the top has ever seen excavating, there is no indication. There are a few small signs (no explanation) but no temples, theaters, etc. If you ever wonder what it would be like to stumble upon an undiscovered site, this will do it. The views of the Mediterranean are incredible.
I would then take the paved road back to Kissimos before heading west. There is a dirt road (read as part road, part path) via Lousakies if you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle and NO back problems before the trip.
Falassarna
This village and the archeological site are at the west end of Crete. They are famous for the lovely beach and clean water. When you reach the beach road, turn right (north) Follow it to the end of the paved section (Baby Beach.) There is a dirt road that continues forward. Follow that.
You will pass through orchards on both sides. After five minutes, you should come to Poseidon’s Throne. No one knows the actual use of this piece of stone that kind of looks like a throne. There were quarries below where it sits so that it may have been a work in progress.
Another 300 + yards brings you to the ancient port. But you have been moving away from the water and uphill. How can there be a port up here? In 67 A.D. the Romans sack the city and port, as it is a hotbed of pirates.
The Lift is Up.
Since this time, the west end of the island has been rising. Sometimes slowly, sometimes with the help of natural disasters. There are parts of the port that are now almost 30 feet above sea level. Who knows how deep they are during the time the harbor is in use.
The harbor was an interior lake with two canals connecting it to the sea. In the last 30 years, they have been uncovering towers, walls, quays, and jetties. There are also remains of cisterns and buildings.
I recommend some lunch and a swim (weather and water temp permitting) before driving back to Chania.
- On the return to Chania, at the turnoff for Korfalonas (after Kissamos) is an exciting stop, if you are up for it. A 20-minute drive to the south will bring you to the Cave of Agia Sophia. A climb up the stairs, and then along a path brings you to a large cave. A small chapel sits in the mouth of the cave. The vistas from the cave and the imposing stalactites in the cave both offer amazing images.
Lissos
A 90-minute rough hike by foot to the west of Sougia is the unrestored archeological site of Lissos. This town was a significant coastal settlement during the Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine periods. There are some ruins across the rocky area. These include the small temple to Asklepios (the god of healing.) For its age and lack of protection, there is a mosaic floor in the temple in good shape. To the west of the site are some Roman graves with arched ceilings.
There is something the locals call a road to the west of the site. You might be able to drive it if you have a four-wheel vehicle and a strong stomach. It still requires a hike from the road to the site with few markings.
The Hike
If you are up for it, do the walk from Sougia through the gorge. There are uphills and downhills, and sensible walking/hiking shoes are essential.
There is no development here, which is the neat thing about it. That means the path is a suggestion and not appropriate for people with any knee or hip “opportunities.”
If you are over 40, I suggest you do not attempt it between June – Mid September. In the spring or fall, I would still try for a morning departure. There is some shade at the beginning. You can easily see the site in 45 minutes to an hour. Walk down to the rocky beach. If you have aqua shoes or an extra pair of sneakers, cool off with a quick swim. Pre-arrange with the water-taxi in Sougia to pick you up for the short ride back. There are no restrooms or food and beverage outlets, so plan accordingly. Drive from Chania is about 90-minutes each way on a road that is almost two lanes wide, and windy.
See Chania Summary
Are you a little surprised at how much Chania holds in store for you? Plan a few days to see Chania and all that it has to offer. Crete is not an island to see in a day.