BACK TO GREEK WINE
Table of Contents:
Crete Cuisine Greek Beers. Greek Spirits.
After 4,000 years of making wine, the Cretans seem to have it down.
We know that the Minoan people of Crete were making wine since the Bronze Age. We have the wine jugs from that time. The Cretan wine was only for consumption on the island. There are no signs of Cretan wine vessels on other islands or the mainland.
When the Roman Empire came along in the 2nd century A.D., they began exporting sweet Cretan wine to Italy. The sweetness of the Protropos wine came from sun-drying the grapes before squeezing them.
In late medieval (14th to 16th centuries) Europe, the Vino di Candia was a constant import to western and northern Europe. Candia was the name of present-day Heraklion at that time.
Cretan wine has several appellations, including Archanes, Dafnes, Peza, and Sitia.
The Grapes
Of the seventeen grape varieties they are currently growing on Crete, eleven of them have P.D.O. or P.G.I. Status. The others are more for blending.
The P.D.O. and P.G.I. Wine grapes of Crete are:
White Grapes
- Vilana – is one of the best white varietal grapes on the island. It produces wines with medium body, acidity, alcohol content, and a refreshing lemon-scented flavor.
- P.D.O. Sitia
- P.D.O. Chandakas-Candia,
- P.G.I. Crete,
- P.G.I. Kissamos,
- P.G.I. in the regions of Heraklion, Lassithi, Rethymnon, and Chania.
- Vidianos – is the diva of white grapes, with a unique aroma and notes of apricot, it has a robust and creamy flavor.
- P.D.O. Chandakas – Candia
- P.G.I. in the regions of Crete, Heraklion, and Rethymnon.
- Thrapsathiri – grapes produce a well-balanced wine with a medium body and intensity. They add a fruity aroma to white wines.
- P.DO. Sitia,
- P.D.O. Malvasia Sitias,
- P.D.O. Chandakas – Candia,
- P.G.I. Kissamos,
- P.G.I. Crete
- P.G.I. in the regions of Heraklion, Lassithi, Rethymnon, and Chania.
- Malvasia di Candia – grapes produce a wine of high citrus aromas and strong floral notes.
- P.D.O. Malvasia Sitias.
- P.G.I. Heraklion, Crete
- Moschato Spinas – grapes create a varietal known for its distinct aroma. These wines have a delicate character. They commonly blend it with native and international varietals.
- P.D.O. Malvasia Sitias,
- P.G.I. in the regions of Heraklion, Lassithi, Rethymnon, and Chania.
- Dafni – is one of Crete’s oldest varietal grapes producing a wine of medium alcohol content and acidity. The wines have a medium body and mellow taste.
- P.G.I. Crete
- P.G.I. Heraklion.
- Piltos – grapes are known for their refreshing acidity, aromas of citrus, and lemon notes. They blend it with other wines such as vidiano.
- P.G.I. Crete,
- P.G.I. Heraklion
- P.G.I. Lassithi.
Red Grapes
- Mandilaria – is the king of native varietals on Crete. They produce wines with high acidity, bright red color, and proper levels of acidity and tannins. They blend it with milder wines such as Kotsifali.
- P.D.O. Peza,
- P.D.O.Archanes
- P.D.O. Dafnes,
- P.D.O. Sitia,
- P.D.O. Malvasia Sitias,
- P.D.O. Chandakas – Candia,
- P.G.I. Crete
- P.G.I. in the regions of Heraklion, Lassithi, Rethymnon, and Chania.
- Kotsifali – grapes produce an excellent red varietal of mild flavor. It adds a high alcohol level, low acidity, and intense plum aromas. They blend it to stabilize color and to soften more robust wines, such as Mandilaria in:
- P.D.O. Peza,
- P.D.O. Archanes
- P.D.O. Chandakas – Candia
- They combine it with Syrah for:
- P.G.I. Crete
- P.G.I. in the regions of Heraklion, Lassithi, Rethymnon, and Chania.
- Liatiko – grapes produce a varietal with a round, full body. Liatiko wines have high alcohol levels, low to moderate acidity, and notes of dried fruit and flowers.
- P.D.O. Sitia,
- P.D.O. Dafnes,
- P.D.O. Malvasia Sitias
- P.G.I. Crete,
- P.G.I. in the regions of Heraklion, Lassithi, and Rethymnon.
- Romeiko – grapes produce a wine of high alcohol content and moderate acidity. They use it in both dry and sweet wines.
- P.D.O. Dafnes
- P.G.I. Crete,
- P.G.I. in the regions of Rethymnon, Chania, and Kissamos.
More often, they blend it with other varieties due to its vibrant color. They also use it in the production of some sweet wines.
Wineries
Near Heraklion
Southeast
Boutari Wines Crete – Boutari appears in most of the essential Greek wine regions. Crete is no exception. Boutari began making wine here in 2004. However, wine from this region goes back several thousand years. They have red and white wines and are experimenting with older grape varieties for new wines.
Digenakis Winery – is a newer winery and has been racking up awards almost since opening. They currently produce more than ten wines, red, white, and rose.
Domaine Paterianakis – is in the foothills. Watch for the signs on your right when coming from Heraklion, it comes up fast behind a hill. It is the first organic winery on Crete using no chemical or synthetic fertilizers. The focus is on growing six indigenous and five international varieties of grapes. Views over the vines do not hurt the taste of the wines.
Lyrarakis Winery – requires a G.P.S. as there is some backtracking to reach the winery. Since 1966, the Lyrarakis family has been focusing on rare local grape varieties and producing single-variety wines. They are responsible for reviving three ancient indigenous Cretan varieties of grapes — the Dafni, Plyto, and Melissaki. If you cannot make it to the winery, they have a retail store in Heraklion.
Miliarakis Winery / Minos Cretan Wines – is one winery with two brands. The winery in the center of Peza. The four original Miliarakis brothers were making wine sometime in the early 1900s. Circa 1932, they began the Minos brand as a modern industrial winery mood Cretan wines in quantity. Today, the 4th and 5th generations of the family are running the company. You can sample both brands. Several of the Miliarakis wines have won awards.
South
Alexakis Winery – is a family-owned winery and the largest on Crete. Wine production begins around 1970. Today, there are two generations at work. Currently, they produce more white wines than red, and they have one rose. The winery is on the southern outskirts of Heraklion.
Southwest
Douloufakis winery – is using indigenous grape varieties such as Liatiko, Malvasia, Mandilari, Vilana, Vidiano, and others. They produce award-winning Cretan wines and some using international varieties grapes for blending. Have a designated driver to get out of the narrow streets afterward.
Idaia Winery – honors “Idaia,” the wife of Zeus, who gave the island the same name. Since 2008, this family-run winery has been making several award-winning wines. Currently, they produce around ten red, white, and rose wines.
West.
Klados Winery – is approximately a one-hour drive west of Heraklion on the road to Rethymno. This family-run business began in 1997. Within ten years, they had to move to a larger, more modern building. Using the islands Kotsifali, Liatiko, Plito, Vidiano, and Vilana grapes, they make traditional Cretan wines. The white wines are pure Cretan grape varieties while they blend international varieties with local ones in their red wines.
And Somewhere Near Heraklion
Louloudis Winery – is a family-run winery that has been making wine for 100 years. I have never been to the winery. Their website and Facebook pages are in Greek, which I do not excel in reading. They do not have a wine tasting room, and you need to pre-arrange tours. However, I have tried their wines in town at bars and restaurants. The whites tend to be more traditional Cretan wines. I like these. In contrast, the reds include international varieties of grapes.
Maragakis Winery – is another winery I have never been able to visit. But many restaurants in Heraklion (probably Chania) serve their P.G.I. Status wines. Who says you cannot do a wine tasting at a bar? With a good bartender, you can. The winery is on-road 97 before you reach the Maragkaki S gas station. I think, but I have never seen a sign. I believe you drive right between their vineyards. Try it in the city.
Chania Region
East
Dourakis Winery – is approximately 45 minutes east, southeast of Chania. Almost equal distance from Rethymno. Opening in 1988, this family-run winery was a lifelong dream of its owner. The Dourakis family now produces over 15 varietals, mainly from indigenous grapes with international varieties for blending.
Southwest
Manousakis Winery – is just under 30 minutes drive from Chania. Ted Manousakis left Crete in 1954 (age 11) and would grow up and have a successful life in America. But Nostos, (greek meaning yearning to come home) brought him back to Crete, and he began the winery in 1993. Today, it is a family affair. They produce three whites, three reds, one pink and one red wine. These organic wines are under the Nostros label. The winery also has a restaurant with several dishes that pair nicely with their wines.
West
Anoskeli Winery – is not just a winery. The Mamidakis family has been producing olive oil for generations. Commercially since the 1980s. The small village of Anoskeli is approximately 40 minutes west of Chania. Tours include olive oil and wine sampling. Currently, they produce two whites, three reds, and a rose.
Karavitakis Winery – is approximately 40 minutes’ drive west of Chania. The Karavitakis family has been producing wine, (also olive oil and raisins) for over 80 years. The winery sits on a ridge overlooking endless olive groves. Although they offer tours several times a day, I suggest calling ahead.
Cretan Wine Summary.
VERY few of the wineries are open year-round to guests, and few accept guests without a reservation. Those receiving guests are usually doing so in April through September. The wineries of Crete are not the shopping mall that Napa has become, yet. I would check the websites above (orange links) and make a reservation. For groups, or during the offseason, this is important.
Come, taste wine with an incredible history. Cretan wine has been flowing for 4000 years. Sample wines from grapes you cannot experience anywhere else in the world.
To do all the wineries, you need four days, a driver, and an incredibly healthy liver. If you start early in the morning, you can do all five in the Chania region. Here, it is not the number of wineries, but the distance (and mountains) between them.
Near Heraklion, there are twelve. If you rush, you could do the Southeast and South locations in one day, and the others the next day. But doing them over three days would be a lot easier on the body and liver,
Whatever you do, when in Crete, try the Cretan wine.