BACK TO: ATHENS

Table of Contents: 
CULINARY WALK
WALKS BY NEIGHBORHOOD
BONUS STOPS

A walk through just about any neighborhood in Athens can be a culinary outing.

As most people reading this page are probably within walking distance of Syntagma / Plaka, I am going to focus on a walk through this area.

There are 17 items we will be looking for to give you a real taste of Athens and Greece.

These items are:

Baklava:

Can you only find it in Athens? No, every town and village has numerous recipes.

Can you only find it in Greece? No, just about every country bordering the Mediterranean has its own version.

What sets Athenian Baklava apart is that it often uses Walnuts instead of Almonds. Also look for versions with the P.D.O. pistachios. Location and what can be grown locally play a big part in which nut is used.

Bougatsa:

Thessaloniki is considered the home of Bougatsa, but it’s not the only place to find it. Every Greek grandmother (yia yia) has the best recipe for Bougatsa.

In Athens, you can find both traditional sweet (cream-filled) and savory cheese-filled.

Cheese (Greek)

There are approximately 10 distinct cheeses made in the Attica region around Athens, including the P.D.O. Feta.

Chocolate (Greek)

What? They don’t make chocolate in Greece.

OH Oh, oh, oh, yes they do. And it blows most US manufacturers out of the water.

Galaktoboureko

One of my favorite Greek desserts is this custard filling surrounded by layers of filo dough and drizzled in a sweet, citrus (lemon) and spice-infused sugar syrup.

Greek Coffee

The Greek coffee is unfiltered and boiled in a pot, making it completely different than anything you will find in Italy or Miami.

Greek Pies

How can I not be in love with a country that has cake and pies for breakfast? Although you will commonly find spinach (spanakopita) and cheese (tiropita) pies, Greeks also use fruit fillings such as apple (Milopita) and sweet fruit with tangy cheese.

Gyro (YEE-roh)

“Gyro” comes from the Greek word gȳrīzo, which means “to turn an item.” What better term for the large, vertical rotisserie spinning (usually in sight) with highly-seasoned meat slow-roasting?

The Gyro is the ultimate handheld, fast-casual meal in Greece. Think of a sub sandwich: it is a meat-heavy, customizable meal—but instead of a hoagie roll, the fillings are rolled into a warm, fluffy pita. These fillings are thinly shaved meat (pork or maybe chicken), fresh tomatoes (picked when they are red and flavorful), raw red onions, crispy French fries, and a generous plop of garlic and cucumber tzatziki.

Koullouri

Think of a breadstick formed into a circle before baking. This traditional Greek street food can be found on nearly every corner.

You want to eat this standing up, as the crumbs and sesame seeds will find every nook and cranny.

Loukoumades.

These are essentially the Greek version of beignets, though the Greeks were making them first.

These are bite-sized dough balls deep-fried until crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. Instead of powdered sugar, loukoumades are traditionally drizzled with a hot honey syrup and sprinkled with cinnamon and chopped walnuts.

Olives / Oil

In a country with Olive trees thousands of years old, it only makes sense that they are going to have a few olives.

Did you know Greece grows over 60 different olive species?

In Attica, they grow three primary species. The Manaki and Athinolia (Mastoidis) are predominantly used for the wonderful local olive oil. The Megaritiki is cured as a finger-licking green table olive.

Ouzo

Unfortunately, cheap Ouzo has appeared in many stories of college evenings gone wrong. Cheap Ouzo deserves its bad reputation, as do most cheaply made liquors and liqueurs.

But just as we are not tourists, we do not drink cheap Ouzo. When made properly, it has a smooth balance of anise and local herbs.

If your travels include the island of Lesvos, wait and try it in its historic birthplace.

Another reason Ouzo has a bad reputation is “user error.”

It is never served as a “shot” and is traditionally served with Greek meze.

Pastirma

Pastirma (Pastourmas) is a traditional cured meat with roots in the region’s Anatolian (Turkish) culinary history (although no Greek will admit it).

The Greeks remember the Ottoman occupation of Greece. They forget the Greeks occupied Anatolia before that.

Pistachios

This is another “taste” to try in Athens, unless your travels will take you to the nearby island of Aegina.

This island is home to the famous PDO-certified Fistiki Aeginis. Although they grow the same trees on the mainland, the pistachios from Aegina taste more naturally sweet and have a distinctly rich flavor.

Souvlaki

Souvlaki is just another name for Gyro, right? WRONG!

When wrapped in warm pita bread with tomatoes, onions, and tzatziki, Souvlaki is similar, but it is often served on a plate with rice or fries.

The big difference is in the cooking style. Souvlaki consists of marinated pieces of meat skewered and grilled over an open flame. Totally different texture, totally different taste. Greece’s version of Turkish Kabobs.

Spices

Thanks to a Greek named Alexander, around 250 B.C., trade routes were opened from Asia and India. Their goods, including spices, arrived at Greek ports in today’s Egypt, Turkey, and other Middle Eastern countries. Some of these spices would grow in Greece, and after 2000 years, they are considered Greek spices. These include Greek Oregano, Greek Saffron, and Greek Thyme.

Yogurt

If you have had Greek Yogurt in the USA, you have not had Greek Yogurt. In Greece, yogurt is typically made from sheep’s milk and is naturally strained, resulting in a rich, tangy, and thick glob.

In the USA, “Greek yogurt” is more of a marketing term than the end product. American versions usually start with additives like milk powder, starches, and other ingredients you cannot pronounce, all used for thickening. They use cow’s milk, and the result is more sour than yogurt made in Greece.

So now we know what to look for, let’s focus on where. Put on sensible walking shoes as we are going to walk Athens’ culinary trails.

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A Suggested Culinary Walk of Athens.

This is a walk I recommend to those interested in tasting many of Athens’ flavors in the shortest time.

Is it the walk you have to follow? No.

Is it the best culinary walk? That’s completely up to your taste buds.

Are these the very best, or the only places to sample these tastes? You decide.

Arch of Hadrian

Actually, starting on the west side of busy Leof. Vasilisis Amalias Blvd., across from the arch. Walk west (towards the Acropolis) on Lisikratous Street with the arch behind you and the First Greek Evangelical Church of Athens on your left.

After you pass several sunken pillars from a Roman Stoa on your right, prepare to turn onto Adrianou St., which veers off to your right.

If you reach the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates, don’t fret. You can go back one short block or turn right onto Sellei St and turn right again when you reach Thespidos St.

Kosmikon, at 119 Adrianou St.

On Adrianou St, where Thespidos St (west) meets Kidathineon St (east), this tree-shaded outdoor restaurant is my second-favorite place for Galaktoboureko. The first is their original location at Leof. Ionias 104, which is a 10-15 minute metro or taxi ride to the north. And that’s why it’s not on this walk.

This is a good substitute, though I feel inclined to order more than just a dessert, since it is a sit-down restaurant. Here, they offer Galatopita (often referred to as crustless, or “naked,” Galaktoboureko) because it lacks a phyllo crust. Both have the sweet, creamy semolina and milk custard filling.

Brettos, at 41 Kidathineon St. 

Our next stop is just across Kidathineon St. from Kosmikon. Brettos has been distilling its own Ouzo since 1909, making it the oldest distillery in Athens. They offer an ouzo tasting flight with 5 different variations of their house-brewed Ouzo.

This is why Kosnikon is the first stop. Only tourists drink Ouzo on an empty stomach.

And unlike the Instagramers who infest Brettos to get their perfect 15 seconds of fame, you will actually be buying something and helping keep Brettos around for another hundred years.

Reservations are a great idea. (orange link).

As you exit Brettos, turn right and walk up Kidathineon St, passing the Cine Paris on your left. If you want to make a whole day of exploring the Plaka, combine this walk with my Plaka Walk.

Continue on Kidathineon St until you pass the Holy Church of the Transfiguration of the Saviour on your left. Directly behind the church is Kodrou St. Turn left.

This neighborhood has some great old book and antique stores, so do not walk too quickly. On Kodrou St., the Museum of Greek Children’s Art is on your right.

When Kodrou meets Iperidou St, it secretly and without warning becomes Voulis St. (The pavement changes from marble to asphalt.) Continue on Kodrou, now Voulis St, which will jog right.

On the right is our next stop.

Mitropolitikon at 39 Voulis St.

You will probably smell this location before you see it, as they make/bake everything in-house. Since the 1930s, this family-owned and operated bakery has been turning out sweet treats. I recommend it for their Baklava, made with Aegina pistachios. Their Galaktoboureko is also very good.

If you cannot make it to the island of Hydra, try the amygdalota (Greek almond macaroons) here. Rumor says it is the same recipe.

Turn right onto Voulis St, and where it crosses Apollonos, turn right, and our next stop is on your left.

Cellar Matsoukas at 6 Apollonos St.

Here, you can purchase many Greek treats, but we are here for pistachios. And not any pistachio, but the PDO-certified Fistiki Aeginis (pistachio from Aegina). The volcanic soil and dry roasting with air rather than oil produce a finished nut that even I like. And I am not a person who likes eating nuts. I prefer the salted ones, but you decide.

They also have commercial Greek chocolate, which blows American chocolate out of the water. They carry Ion Greek Milk Chocolate and Pavlidis Classic Dark Chocolate.

Spyro Pavlidis introduced Greece to chocolate in 1861. He was convinced of its nutritious and medicinal qualities, so he called it “health chocolate.” Today, the famous blue packaging can still “heal” me after a long day. Although now owned by Kraft, they were smart to keep their hands off the recipe, and you can still taste the chocolate that Greeks have been growing up with for more than 150 years.

Turn right out of the cellar and cross over Voulis to the next street, Pentelis, and turn right. Our next stop is on the left.

O Kostas at 5 Pentelis St.

While the practice of cooking meat on a stick, Souvlaki, spans the Mediterranean, on Santorini, they have unearthed racks dating back to the 17th century B.C., indicating the Greeks were among the first to cook this way.

Consisting of small, bite-sized pieces of meat (usually pork or maybe chicken), they are marinated in the Greek Trinity (olive oil, lemon juice, garlic) and herbs, then grilled on a skewer. There is no law that it must be eaten in a pita with tomato, onion, and tzatziki. Many people eat it right off the stick or over rice or potatoes.

As there is really no seating at this takeaway, wrapped in pita is highly recommended. They are smaller than most Americans are used to, making them easier to eat while standing.

From O Kostas, visit the little church under the big hotel across the street. Holy Church of the Sacred Power is at the corner of Pentelis St. and Mitropoleos St. 

Turn right onto Mitropoleos and walk up one block to Voulis St. Turn left. Walk two full blocks to burn off all the calories up to this point. Our next stop is on the left.

The rest of the Voulis Culinary Triathlon

Ariston at 10 Voulis St. 

If it has “pitas” (pie) in the name, you can probably find it here. For more than 100 years, Athenians have been lining up to buy their tiropitas (cheese-egg), spanakopitas (spinach), hortopitas (greens, herbs and Feta), kotopitas (chicken), manintaropitas (mushroom & cheese), and, well, you get the idea.

Fillo, at 11 Voulis St.

Right across the street from Ariston is another pie shop that looks old. Actually, dating back to only the 2000s, Fillo has a great selection of pies as well. Keep in mind that pies are made daily and sell out. Also, seating is limited at either location.

Aristokratikon at  7 Voulis St.

Artesian Greek Chocolate. Greece’s answer to Godiva. Since 1928, some of the most delectable chocolate (IMHO) in Europe has come from this small shop at Voulis 7. And others agree. Over the years, Maria Callas would dash in for a box of pistachio punch, Jackie Kennedy nibbled on rose and vanilla-flavored Turkish delights, and Grace Kelly adored their caramelized pistachios. I stick to the chocolate, milk, and dark.

From here, we are going to turn left back onto Voulis St and backtrack one block to Karagiorgi Servias St. Turn right.

A five-minute stroll down Karagiorgi Servias will burn all the calories from Voulis St. and bring us to the cream and white exterior of the Holy Church of Saint Irene on your right.

Our next location is in the plaza on the other side of the church.

Kostas at 2 pl Agias Irinis.

Another contender for the best Souvlaki, this location, which has no association with O Kostas, also turns out a tasty Gyro.

Try the pork gyro, and if you are still hungry, try a souvlaki to taste the difference. Although there isn’t much, there is more seating here than at O Kostas.

When you are finished, head to Aiolou St., which is on the front side of Sainte Irene’s. Cross over Karagiorgi Servias St. and continue on Aiolou St. one block to Ermou St. Turn right.

One block past Monastiraki Square (it will be on your left), still on Ermou, Agias Theklas veers off to the right. Take it.

Follow it to the end where it meets Karaiskaki St. Our next stop is on the left.

To Koulouri of Psirri at 23 Karaiskaki St.

Many of the push carts (koulourtzides) you see all over Athens selling Koulouri stopped here that morning to load up. Stop in the bakery section and try to snag one fresh out of the oven.

The traditional ring-shaped bread is coated with toasted sesame seeds. It has a crisp exterior and soft, chewy middle.

With Koulouri in hand, backtrack 1/2 block to see the over-the-top, storybook decor on Little Kook restaurant. (Look for the mob of people.) The decor and the staff’s outfits change seasonally. Please go for the photo, but don’t stay for the food.

Backtrack again past the bakery, then continue on Karaiskaki St.

A block later, the road curves to the right and becomes Miaouli St. Iroon Square is on your left, and our location is on your right.

Bougatsadiko Psirri at 27 Miaouli St.

While Thessaloniki claims parenthood of Bougatsa, it’s a treat you can find just about anywhere in Greece. For what I think is some of the best bougatsa outside of Thessaloniki, try it here.

The sweet custard in phyllo pastry is popular as a breakfast bite. Savory fillings, including chicken, cheese, and vegetables, are popular nighttime snacks, though there is nothing wrong with having them at any time of day. Don’t judge.

As you exit the Bougatsadiko, it is time to work off a few more calories before the big finish.

Walk through Iroon Square, where all the tables are, to reach the other side of the small square (which is actually more triangular). The street leading away from the square on the far right is Eschilou St. Follow it.

You will pass the Grill Restaurant on your right. Notice the neoclassical building from 1875, which it sits in. This is one of the oldest structures in this neighborhood. Just past the Grill, the road comes to a Y. Keep to the right, and this becomes Ag. Dimitriou. Follow it to its end. 

At the end, turn right onto Evripidou St. At the first corner, turn left onto Athinas St. Our next visit is one block up on the right.

A Culinary Wonderland – Varvakeios Central Market

Varvakios Central Municipal Market (Varvakios Agora) officially opened for business in 1886. It has been the city’s primary food hub for fish, meat & produce ever since.

No culinary tour would be complete without a visit here.

In addition to the rows and rows of fresh meat and seafood, there are some other culinary gems to look for.

Mokka Specialty Coffee, at 44 Athinas St 

There has been a coffee shop here since 1923, and from day one, the coffee beans have been freshly roasted and ground.

Located in the block just past the central market building, it is worth a visit for the smell alone. But sit and enjoy a cup of real Greek Coffee. It will get you to the finish line of this marathon.

When rested, exit Mokka and turn right. Go to the first street, Sofokleous, and turn right again. Follow this to the broad pedestrian mall/street that runs behind the market, Aiolou St. Turn right, and our next stop will be on your right.

A reminder that the National Bank of Greece (NBG) and Alpha Bank offer the most reliable and competitive rates when exchanging. When the ATM asks if you want to be charged in your home currency or in Euros (EUR), always choose Euros. An ATM will apply an inflated exchange rate for your home currency. Euronet, exchange offices, and 3rd-party ATMs typically cost more for less.

Krinos at 87 Aiolou St.

The Greeks claim that loukoumades, bite-sized donuts, are among the oldest desserts in the world.

The Greek poet Callimachus (Circa 250 B.C.) mentioned that winners in the Ancient Olympics were gifted ‘honey tokens,’ which may have been the first loukoumades.

Since 1923, Krinos has been serving fresh, hand-shaped loukoumades from this location. If it is your first time, order the traditional with honey syrup, cinnamon, and walnuts. The line at the back counter usually moves more quickly. One order is enough to share.

Turn right on Aiolou St. and continue to the next corner, Evripidou. Turn right, and our next stop is on the left.

Strounga tou Moria, at 21 Evripidou St.

Don’t let the spartan decor of this Greek cheese shop fool you. What they lack in fancy lights and walnut showcases, they more than make up for with their selection. They have one of the largest selections of local and other cheeses in Athens.

That might be one of the reasons they have been in business since 1886. No, that’s not a typo. If you want to know what real Feta Cheese is, try it here.

As you exit, turn left and stay on Evripidou St, crossing Athinas St. Our next visit will be on the left.

Gennaiopoulos at 33 Evripidou St.

For an even wider variety of nuts, seeds, and dried fruits, take a peek into this shop. It is also under the watchful eye of its third generation.

Fotsi Spices, at 39 Evripidou St. 

In the late 1940s, Fotios Tsironis began selling spices from his shop. Today, the third generation of his family is doing the same. This is where I stop for my Greek saffron and other spices.

To Fthino Ypogio at 46B Evripidou St.

Across the street from Fotsi is an interesting place (I think) to see on a culinary walk, even though you will not sample anything here and probably won’t buy anything.

In the basement of this store (street access), you will find an amazing selection of lentils, chickpeas, beans, and even pasta. You don’t see this in most grocery stores back home.

Miran Deli at 45 Evripidou St.

If you are going to create a Greek charcuterie board, you need something to go with your cheeses from Strounga tou Moria. Miran has been selling quality meats and sausages since 1922. The third generation of this family now oversees the shop.

If nothing else, you need to try their Pastirma (Pastourmas) and Soujouk, a dry, spicy, fermented sausage. You can buy it to take home or arrange a sit-down tasting in the store. Reservations are recommended on the website (orange link)

Karamanlidika tou Fani at 52 Evripidou St. 

Across the street is this deli/mezedadiko (meze restaurant) where charcuterie becomes an experience. Here, you can also sample Pastirma (Pastourmas) and numerous other delights.

Karamanlidika is on the corner of Evripidou St and Sokratous St.

Follow Sokratous St. one block north to Theatrou St and turn left. Our last stop is on the left.

Ariana Olives at 3 Theatrou St.

Chances are, you have never seen such a wide variety of olives in one place. Since 1921, they have been harvesting their own olives, brining them, and selling them in Athens. They have black olives, nine different types. They have more than 10 different varieties of Green Olives, Kalamata (6 varieties), and more. And of course olive oil and other products made with olive. It’s an eye-opening visit.

Diporto (Two Doors) Taverna

Down from Ariana’s at the corner of Theatrou and Sokratous streets, look for a steep staircase going down from the sidewalk in front of this building. You have stumbled (quite literally) into this unmarked taverna which has been serving comfort food since 1887. There is no sign on the building. There is no menu to read. You eat whatever the kitchen prepared that day.

Transparency: I am the only person who doesn’t think this is a must-see. The lentil soup was good, but not fantastic. My biggest ick was the house wine’s retsina-like aftertaste.

Take a look, but I don’t think it rates a place on our culinary walk.

BONUS CULINARY STOP

If your feet and stomach have the stamina, there is one more stop, but it is outside the Plaka area.

Stani Dairy Bar, at 10 Marikas Kotopouli St.

It opened in 1931 and is now the only original dairy bar left in Athens. That alone is worth a visit. If you ever wanted to taste real Greek yogurt, then look no further. They serve amazing traditional dairy products, including ice cream and custard desserts, in addition to yogurt.

A word of Caution

The original store is in the Omonia Square neighborhood, which has a high number of homelessness and petty crime. Do not venture out in this area at night. Due to city updates, it is generally safe during the day as long as you stay in areas with heavy foot traffic. In no city, including your own, should you go down deserted streets or alleys. Keep your guard up, and you should be fine. No visible valuables, no purses, fanny packs; don’t be the low-hanging fruit for pickpockets.

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Best Supporting Culinary Locations.

Are the places listed above the very best, or the only culinary places in Athens to visit? Absolutely not!

Most of them are in my top three in their respective specialties, but they do not have a monopoly.

They were chosen more for their location than for their superiority. This route is the shortest distance between 17 points.

And what recipe/preparation is liked by everyone? 300 Greek grandmothers = 300 best Spinacopita.

Create your own Culinary Stroll if you find yourself in any of these neighborhoods:

Culinary Tastes in the Acropolis Museum Area

Pantopolion at 34 Dimitrakopoulou St

If you are looking for gift Greek items, this is a one-stop shop.

O Gyros Pou Gyrevis at 1 Athanasiou Diakou St.

They have been serving some of the juiciest Gyros I have had in this area. Try the chicken ones for a different taste.

Koukaki Takis Bakery at 14 Misaraliotou St.

Go for the fresh Koulouri, but try some of the other 30 baked items from their oven—great on-the-go food.

Rizos Elaia at 12 Matrozou St.

Also famous for their Koulouri, they have been producing freshly baked goods for over 50 years.

PistachioLand, at 11 Lempesi St.

If you are not going by the Syntagma area, stop here to pick up some Aegina pistachios.

Ellinika Kaloudia at 8 Chazichristou St.

The name means “Greek goodies,” and this charming little store has that. But my Greek yogurt-eating friends come here for the real yogurt.

Additional Culinary Tastes Akadimia Area

Afoi Asimakopouloi at 82 Char. Trikoupi St.

If you are in the area, stop by this patisserie for their Baklava and everything else.

Mam at 3 Pesmazoglou St.

If you are craving really good spinach or phyllo cheese pie, make your way here.

Olivest at 28 Sina St.

If you’re looking for a wide assortment of Greek Olive Oil, go no further. They also have olive oil tastings and worldwide shipping.

Culinary Tastes in the Exarchia / Kolonaki Area

Kostarelos Deli at 30-32 Patriarchou Ioakim St.

They have been producing Greek Cheeses and dairy products since 1937. They also have other Greek products to go with the cheeses.

Makedonikon at 73 Solonos St.

This is a legendary, old-school bakery opened in 1974. A father and son prepare authentic Northern-style Greek pastries, specifically Greek cheese pies and traditional bougatsa.

Mr Vertigo at 15 Pl. Filikis Eterias

This wine shop carries more than 25 Greek wines, as well as wines from other countries.

Maison d’ Olive at 7-9 Xanthippou St.

In addition to award-winning Greek Olive Oil, this shop carries wines, olives, deli products, and more.

Kylix Fine Wines & Spirits at 20 Karneadou St.

Another great selection of Greek and international wines.

Additional Culinary Tastes in Arch of Hadrian Area

O Glykys (The Sweet) at 2 Geronta St.

Needing a sweet and a Greek Coffee? There is no better place or setting than here.

FineWine at 12 Thespidos St.

A great place to taste and purchase Greek Wine.

Culinary Tastes in the Monasteraki Area

Cava Nektar at 121 Ermou.

I’m not sure what it is about this store that keeps pulling me back. It’s a great stop for Greek wines, beers, and liqueurs, but it also has an impressive selection of whiskies. Check out the bistro and inquire about Greek wine tastings.

Peri Lesvou at 27 Athinas St.

Here, you can find a good selection of Greek Cheeses and wine.

Oraia Ellas at 11 Miaouli St.

Come here to enjoy a traditional Greek Coffee made on hot sand (hovoli). Stay for a traditional Greek breakfast in a lovely setting.

Tylixto at 19 Aiolou St.

I could sit here for hours and eat their fresh French fries, but do yourself a favor and try their Gyro or Souvlaki.

Loukoumadaki at 18 Miaouli St.

A great place to stop and recharge on Loukoumades. If you are a Jeep fan, check out Ducklin next door.

Hoocut at 9 Pl. Agias Irinis St.

Another great place for Souvlaki. They have to be, with some of the competition nearby.

LUKUMAΔΕΣ. at 21 Aiolou &, Agias Irinis Str

This is a local chain that specializes in Loukoumades. I like the location across from Saint Irini church as I can usually snag one of the few seats inside the air-conditioned store. They also have a location at the Athens airport if you want to have sticky fingers all the way home.

O Thanasis at 69 Mitropoleos St

Just off Monastiraki Square, this taverna-style restaurant is full of tourists. But it is also full of locals, so they are doing Souvlaki right.

Bairaktaris Taverna at Monastiraki Square

Next door to O Thanasis is a taverna run by a family that has been in the restaurant business for nearly 150 years. There is always a line for their gyros and kebabs.

Fresko Yogurt Bar at 66-68 Mitropoleos St.

Fresko has several locations around Athens, but this is most central. Here you can find Greek yogurt with a host of toppings.

Culinary Tastes in the Syntagma Square / Upper Hermou St. Area

Harry’s Kitchen at 2 Athanasiou Axarlian St.

Out of this small storefront comes some big flavors in Greek Pies.

Wine Story at 21 Nikis St.

A great selection of Greek Wine and gifts.

Meat the Greek, at 2-4 Fokionos St.

Between Mitropoleos and Ermou is this location for grab-and-go or sit-down Souvlaki and Gyros.

Pnyka Bakery at 24 Petraki St.

This bakery has an in-house stone mill to grind the grains used in their baked goods, including Koulouri.

Chrisopigi Deli Athens at 7 Voulis St, Bolani Arcade

If your travels are not taking you to Crete, stop by this store for Olive Oil and Honey from Crete. They also carry other traditional Cretan products.

Culinary Tastes in the Varvakeios Central Market Area

Roe Olive Shop at 1 Agiou Dimitriou St.

Besides quality olives, you can also find olive oil, capers, honey, and halva.

Lesvos Shop at 33 Athinas St.

Offering products from the islands of Lesvos and Limnos, here is a great place to find Lesvos Ouzo, including Barbayannis, Plomari, and other brands.

Volvi at 24–26 Athinas St.

This Souvlaki stand on Athinas St. is at one of the market entrances. They give some of the older Souvlaki stands stiff competition.

Kir-Dimitris at 74 Evripidou St.

Don’t let the bright orange juice bar sign fool you; they have been serving finger-licking pork souvlaki and minced beef gyros for almost 30 years. They are also famous for their biftekia (minced beef burger patties).

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Bonus Culinary Stop

Although not a finger food, there is another special taste of Athens on Evripidou St.

O Telis Mprizoladiko (O teans) at 86 Evripidou & Epikourou Streets

Please don’t let the menu on the wall fool you, and please don’t order like a tourist; please order pork chops with chips and a tomato-cucumber salad. Locals have been coming here since 1977 for this specific combination. CASH only. Legend has it that it is a favorite of Greek Prime Ministers. There is evidence that an American Apollo astronaut dined here. The best people-watching is with the locals.

A Culinary Stop for the Vegans.

Holy Llama at 23 Nikas

This fully vegan bakehouse, while not necessarily offering purely Greek items (croissants don’t scream OPA!), does have Greek pies and some Greek cookies. This is a must-stop for one of my Vegan friends, who loves their Pistachio Wonder Wheel.

Culinary Summary

You cannot walk around the corner in Athens without being tempted by smells and displays of all the culinary delights the city has to offer.

But remember to avoid places with a barker out front and menus in seven languages. These are not the places locals eat.

This culinary walk will certainly give you a wide sampling of some of Athens many flavors, but it is not the only path.

Create a culinary outing of your own.

• Just do the different pies or compare souvlakis.
• Do a culinary outing just in one neighborhood.
• If you have the time and stomach for it, try them all. (It took me over 30 years.)

Whatever you do, make sure to sample Athens’ culinary world.

Back to Athens.

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