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PLAKA OF ATHENS WALK

BACK TO: ATHENS

Table of Contents: 
PLAKA TODAY
TOURING PLAKA
ANAFIOTIKA
MONASTIRAKI
SIDE VISIT

Plaka Athens
Paka District, Athens.

 

Plaka.

Plaka is on the northeast side of the Acropolis, sitting in the afternoon shadows of the Acropolis (coincidence?). This “Neighborhood of the gods” is Athens’ oldest neighborhood.

The current neighborhood sits atop layers of ancient Athens. Lying between Hadrian’s Arch to the east and the Roman Agora to the west, it’s not clear exactly where it starts or stops. Some maps show the pedestrian walk Dionysiou Areopagitou as the southern border and a zigzag of streets, including Apollonos and Lisiou, as the northern border.

For this discussion, and to simplify the area somewhat, I am going to use Filellinon (Syntagma Square) as the east edge and Ermou Street as the north edge.

The name Plaka did not apply to this area until the second half of the 17th century. Underneath Plaka are four layers of older Athens, the oldest layer dating from the 6th century B.C. It was built on part of the Ancient (Greek) Agora. On top of the Ancient layer, you have the Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, and today’s Modern Athens.

Plaka
Along Scholiou Street in Plaka.

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Other Areas Nearby.

Officially, Monastiraki is not part of Plaka but a separate, neighboring historic district. However, many mistake it for part of Plaka, so we will include it further down, after Plaka.

Monastraki
Monastiraki is between Plaka and the Ancient Agora.

To the north, between Plaka and Omonia, there is another area mistakenly called Plaka, which is Central Athens, and you can read more about it by clicking the orange link.

To confuse you even more, Plaka has two areas: Ano Plaka (meaning ‘above’ or ‘upper’), and Kato Plaka (meaning ‘below’ or ‘lower’), from the Acropolis. This is another border/edge that moves depending on who you ask.

For our purposes, let’s say Lisiou Street, just above the Roman Agora, which then becomes Tripodon St, then Sellei (you get the idea), separates these two areas. (It roughly follows the bottom of the Acropolis hill.)

Now, throw all of that out of your head, and only remember Lisiou Street is one of the quickest ways to walk from the area north of the Acropolis Hill to the area south (Acropolis Museum).

 

Ermou Street

Ermou Street is the longest east/west street in Plaka. It runs from Syntagma, through Plaka and Monastiraki, and ends near the northwest corner of the Ancient Greek Agora. Another reason I chose it as a landmark/northern Plaka border in this exploration.

Plaka
A pedestrian portion of Ermou Street.

The streets were laid out when there were no large trucks or tour buses. In fact, there were no motor vehicles. Many streets are only wide enough for two horse-drawn wagons to pass. Because of this, most of the streets in Plaka have been closed to automobile traffic. Or, in what I can only call Greek fashion, they are closed to motor vehicles, but not always.

Let’s take Ermou, for instance. From Syntagma to Aiolou St, it is predominantly pedestrian except for delivery trucks and an occasional wild Vespa driver. From Aiolou to Monastiraki Square, it is one-way vehicular traffic, and then for the rest of the run to the Agora, it is two-way traffic. 

Did I mention that some of the side streets allow cars? In short, don’t be paranoid, but be aware of your surroundings.

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Plaka Today.

If Plaka is so old, why aren’t the streets lined with chariots, and all the buildings are temples with columns? A large fire in 1884 destroyed much of Plaka, giving it a new canvas to work with. It also exposed parts of the Roman Agora and Hadrian’s Library, which had been hidden for centuries.

Believe it or not, Athens underwent a post-World War II adjustment, like most major cities. Better transportation allowed people to move out of the inner city to “greener neighborhoods.”

Plaka would find itself with empty buildings and utilities that were not promptly repaired.

In the 1980s, the City of Athens, bless them, began a massive preservation plan for Plaka instead of leveling it and putting in a parking lot.

Today, Plaka is visited by millions of people from around the world annually. There are strict zoning and conservation regulations, which is why you will not find loud nightclubs and bars here in the evening.

That doesn’t mean avoid Plaka in the evening. On the contrary, it is overrun with cafes, tavernas, and bars, offering incredible people-watching.

And there’s that building above it…

Plaka
The Acropolis from the Plaka.

The stores on the main streets remain open until the last tourist with money in their pockets goes home.

And the ancient sights lit up at night. This alone justifies the flight and the hassle of traveling through airports.

 

Plaka Dining.

Are there great restaurants in Plaka? I guess it depends on your definition of great.

On the main streets, there are restaurants with photos of the dishes and descriptions in 7 languages. How do you spot these? Usually, there’s also someone out front trying to talk (harass) you in. Great food? Rarely. But I will say, the tourist restaurants in Greece are usually better than those in other European cities.

Still, you will not see many Greeks dining in these establishments. Those are on the side streets. Look for the locals.

Plaka
Lunch is the big meal in Greece. Dinner is grilled meats and seafood. And Greek wine.

Restaurants with great views often don’t have great food. Certainly not for the price you pay. You want to see the Acropolis while you dine? Just understand you will pay for it.

I prefer a café on a square with great people watching, or a cozy taverna.

 

Plaka Shopping.

Can you shop in the Plaka? Just try to get through it without purchasing anything. 90% of the shops carry pretty much the same things. So if you see something you really like, it’s probably best to buy it then, rather than try to find your way back to that specific shop later.

For the shopaholics, there is some great shopping in Plaka.

 

Traditional Greek items

These include food products such as Greek honey, olive oil, herbs, soaps, and Feta cheese, many of which are packaged for travel. Drinks such as ouzo, Greek brandy, and wine, but double-check with your airline if they are allowed in packed suitcases.

Plaka
Even if you think you don’t like olives, try them in Greece.

And handicrafts like ceramics, worry beads (komboloi), leather sandals, and textiles, and religious icons.

 

Greek Sculptures & Frescoes.

If you are looking for Greek busts/statuary for the kids, or a dog sitter, look at any store in Plaka.

Plaka
Copies of Ancient Greek art make lasting memories

If it is for you, I recommend checking the gift shops at any museum, including the Acropolis Museum and the National Archaeological Museum.

Gold & Silver Greek Jewelry.

Gold and silver are no cheaper in Greece than anywhere else in the world. However, the labor is less, so the handcrafted Greek jewelry can be a great value.

If you are looking for a gift for someone else, every other shop in Plaka has jewelry.

Plaka
The Greek Key, a continuous meandering design that symbolizes infinity and the eternal flow of things.

For yourself, look for stores specializing in jewelry. The designs are ancient and, well, Greek. There are even ancient Greek jewelry museums in Athens.

If you see a local wearing something that catches your eye, don’t be afraid to ask them where they purchased it.

Antiques

If you are looking for something old and Mediterranean (not necessarily Greek), check out Avyssinias Square (left on Ermou from Monastiraki).  Especially on Sundays, the square fills with vendors, but check the stores behind them as well.

On Pandrossou Street, behind the Tzistarakis Mosque, is a lovely store at #50.

If you are near Syntagma, check out the Kolonaki area, where many antique stores have moved from Plaka. Or you can check out the Hellenic Art Antiques Antiquities Dealers Association for its members.

For the dog-sitter, or children at home who can destroy anything within 10 minutes of getting their hands on it, go to the Monastiraki “flea (flee?) market.” They carry the best “authentic Greek gifts” made in China…

Think of Plaka as that great dresser your grandmother had, the one with all the drawers. After opening most of them and finding nothing but paperclips and buttons, you find a treasure.

In Plaka, between two stores selling “authentic” Greek Viking helmets (NO, the Vikings never made it to Greece), you may find a craftsman or a craftswoman hand-painting icons, (Pandrosou or Apollonos Street). Along Adrianou and Kydathineon streets you may see artisans carving wood, or creating other handcrafted items, such as ceramics. There are places to taste (and buy) Greek spirits and natural products.

 

Art.

If you are looking for art, check out the Exarchia Square neighborhood near the National Archaeological Museum.

If you left home without one, or after seeing the mouse maze that is Athens and feeling you need one, there is a travel bookstore on the corner of Voulis and Apollonos Street (behind the Electra Metropolis Hotel).  Anavasi Travel Bookshop has a great selection of guidebooks and maps. Just make sure you are grabbing one in a language you can read. The same holds true for old bookstores in Plaka. 

Though it is quite crowded and commercialized, I still visit Plaka every time I go to Athens.

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Touring Plaka.

Yes, I said Ermou was the major east/west street, but, with your back to Syntagma Square, I suggest starting on Mitropoleos Street, one street to the left of Ermou.

Agia Dynami.

The little church under the big hotel. Three blocks down from Syntagma, on your left, is one of Athens’s oldest Greek Orthodox churches. This small church is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and was built in the 16th century during Ottoman rule.

Plaka
The little Agia Dynami church in Plaka.

It sits on the ruins of an ancient temple dedicated to Hercules. Underneath that is a cave system and a network of tunnels dating from the Greek War of Independence.

 

Maria Callas Museum

Two blocks further down Mitropoleos Street, on your right at #44, is this small museum dedicated to one of the 20th century’s biggest opera icons. Although born in New York City, Maria would move to Athens with her mother when she was 14. At 16, she would begin music studies at the Athens Conservatory. The museum is a great stop for opera fans.

 

Holy Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary

In 1842, King Otto would lay the cornerstone.

Plaka
The big Holy Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary.

It would take ten years and marble from 72 churches, left in pieces by the fleeing Ottomans, to create this monument, dedicated to the Annunciation of Mary by the Archangel Gabriel.

 

Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos and Saint Eleutherius (Little Metropolis)

Hiding in the shadows of the Holy Metropolitan Church, on its south side, is this charming small church, which dates back to at least the 12th century. Some believe it may have been built by Byzantine Empress Irene the Athenian circa 800 A.D.

 

Mitropoleos Square

The square the churches sit on is called Mitropoleos Square.
At the west end of the square stands a statue of Constantine XI, the last Byzantine emperor, who died during the fall of Constantinople in 1453. Mitropoleos Street runs along the north side of the square, and the pedestrian street Pandrossou along its southern side.

If you are standing facing the front door of the big church, turn to your right. Across Pandrossou Street is Palaiologou Benizelou, which leads away from the square. Let’s follow it. After one block, you come to a Y in the road. Veer to the right. A) another angle of the Acropolis, B) a stucco wall at the end of the street, and our next stop.

 

Benizelos Mansion

This is the oldest house in Athens, with its first part dating back to the 16th century. Most of what you see today dates back to the 18th century, during the Ottoman Occupation. The Benizelos were quite wealthy and deeply devout. The home is in the Konak architectural style, which was usually reserved for elite members of Ottoman society. This is the last example of its kind in Athens.

As you exit the museum’s courtyard, turn right into Adrianou Street. Follow it, crossing over Flessa Street. Just past Flessa Street, you should see a change in the color of the street. A little further along, right before it curves slightly to the right, the street goes back to dull grey. Just beyond this, you cross Kekropos Street. Then Plaka tries to fool you. After only one narrow storefront, it throws another street at you on the left. This is Aggelikis Chatzimichali, and you want to turn left onto it. At the Y in the road, the next site is on your left.

Before you turn left onto Aggelikis Chatzimichali, check out the shop at 124 on your right.

 

Museum of Popular Art and Tradition, Angeliki Hatzimichali.

Angeliki Hatzimichali was a Greek folklorist who spent much of her life documenting the daily customs and crafts of Greek peasants. Her home was turned into a museum showcasing many of her finds. The home’s interiors are worth the visit.

When you exit, cross over Aggelikis Chatzimichali and take the street that forms the Y. This will lead you to Kidathineon Street, one of the most touristy areas in Plaka. Look at all the menus in 5 languages…
Turn right. Filomousou Eterias Square will be on your left, but you won’t be able to see it through all the tourists.
One thing I think is fun in this area is going to the movies. On your right, at the edge of the square, is a movie theater.

 

Cine Paris

I will go out on a limb and say you have probably never had a movie or movie theater experience quite like this. This is an outdoor rooftop cinema. If you’re too young to remember a drive-in movie, this may be as close as you will ever get. Most of the movies are in English with Greek subtitles. There is full bar service and popcorn for sale. And a small selection of other snacks. The fold-up chairs are not reclinable with 15 leg positions, nor are they reserved. The sunset over the walls of the Acropolis kind of takes your mind off that.

The booking page on their website is predominantly in Greek, but you should be able to figure it out.

It is outdoors, so it is seasonal (May – September) and can only happen after it gets dark. No early matinees. It is unique. Looking for a truly Greek souvenir? How about a vintage movie poster in Greek?

Continuing down Kidathineon Street, about a two-minute walk, you’ll find another unusual stop on your left.

 

Brettos.

They have been distilling Ouzo and Tsipouro since 1909, making it the oldest distillery in Athens still in operation.

Plaka
Brettos is touristy, but worth a visit.

Today, they distill ouzo in 5 different proofs, Tsipouro, Greek Brandy, and several flavored liqueurs. You can sip them in a cocktail, compare them in a tasting, and even buy a bottle to take with you. They also have Greek wine, beer, and traditional cocktails. Unfortunately, it has become a “must” on the Instagram tour, and on my last two visits, it was very hard to find a seat with all the people there just taking pictures.

As you depart Brettos, turn left and walk to the corner. You are back to Adrianou Street. Cross over and continue a short block to Tripodon Street.

Tripodon Street.

You are standing on history. The street is listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the oldest street in Europe to still use its original name. Something it has done for nearly 25 centuries. Originally, it served as the route for the procession from the Ancient Agora to the Theater of Dionysus. Nothing from 2,500 years ago is still visible. But it is fun to see due to its history, width, and pastel buildings.

Turn left, and a block down, you’ll find our next stop on your right.

Choragic Monument of Lysicrates.

Lysicrates was a wealthy citizen who managed (and funded) a theatrical chorus and a public festival. (A choregos) The festival was held in the nearby Theater of Dionysus circa 335 B.C. This was the prize. Tripodon Street was once lined with numerous choragic monuments.

A low wall with green railing surrounds the “park” in which the monument is. While facing the monument, turn left and find the sidewalk between the “park” and the building. Turn right onto the sidewalk and walk towards the Acropolis. Time for our step workout, but it is worth it. If you can find a sign, this sidewalk is actually called Vakchou Street. Take it as far as it goes. At the end/top of this street, right in front of you, is one of Athens’ many life-size jigsaw puzzles: pieces of the Theater of Dionysus.

Plaka
Above the remains of the Dionysus Theater is another great picture of the Acropolis.

You are on Thrasillou Street, and we are going to go right/uphill. As you walk, you will see the walls of the Acropolis from an angle few visitors ever see.

At the top of the hill, the street levels off into a small parking area. It also changes its name to Stratonos. At the far end is a two-story house painted light terracotta with green shutters, and a street circling around it. Look to its left at the whitewashed church.

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Anafiotika.

You are in Anafiotika, a district within Plaka. In the 1840s, Greece’s new king, Otto, imported workers from the island of Anafi, a small Cycladic island southeast of Santorini. These were carpenters and construction workers to refurbish Otto’s palace. They adopted the Anafiotika area and soon turned it into something that reminded them of their island home.

Unfortunately, in the 1950s, much of this neighborhood was destroyed in the name of archaeological research. Luckily, in the 1970s, the government stepped in and bought the 40-some remaining houses.

Plaka
Anafiotika, a Greek island in the city.

As you walk through Anafiotika, PLEASE remember this is a residential neighborhood. People are living here, and these are private homes. Be respectful, and you will find they are, too. In several places, you will see posters advertising Anafi. A nod to their home island.

Holy Church of Saint George of the Rock.

This church, dating to circa 1840, is neither the biggest, smallest, nor oldest in Athens.

Plaka
The Church of St. George’s transports you to a Cycladic island.

However, it is the church of Anafiotika, and it serves as a reference point. To the left of the church, in the parking area, is a staircase that takes you up to a pedestrian-only corner where you can look down on the roofs of Anafiotika, but I prefer to stay on the street directly in front of the church.

Plaka
A kitizen of Anafiotika.

Follow the street that goes uphill to the right (as you are facing the church). You will come to an intersection where the street you are on jogs to the right. Get your picture up towards the Acropolis.

Then look back from where you just came. There is a set of stairs to the left of the street you just walked down. Take the stairs down to the next street, where you will turn left. This will lead you down to Prytaneiou Street. You will see the roof of our next stop in front of you. Turn right and take the first staircase on your left. At the bottom of the first flight of steps, take a hard left through the black door with gold trim.

 

Holy Church of the Holy Unmercenaries of Kolokynthis – Metochion of the Holy Sepulcher.

(Say that one time slowly.) This 17th-century Greek Orthodox church is a hidden gem. Since the 18th century, it has served as the embassy church for the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate in Jerusalem. The Holy Light from Jerusalem comes here first, before being distributed to other churches. The tranquil interior, with its beautiful frescoes and icons, makes a great stop to recenter yourself.

 

Erechtheos Street.

Back out by the steps, continue downhill on this pedestrian street called Erechtheos Street. Is it a street? Or is it a restaurant? In nice weather, it is both. Please watch your step as you are looking every which way except where you are walking. Better yet, step out of the middle of the steps for a moment to take it in.

Plaka
The Steps of Erechtheos Street.

You will come to Erotokritou (slightly different spelling) Pedestrian Street. Here, Erechtheos (the street you are walking down) takes a small jog to the left. Continue one more block down Erechtheos through the maze of people, tables, and steps, until you reach Lisiou Street. This is a vehicular street, so look for cars and scooters before darting out.

Plaka
Lisiou Street is a frequently photographed street in Plaka.

Turn left and tell me Athens is not a scenic city. Walk down Lisiou in this direction.

 

Mnisikleous Stairs.

A block from Erechtheos is another staircase covered in cafes. This is Mnisikleous Street, and a favorite of the Instagrammers. (Personally, I like Erechtheos better.) Snap your photos, then stay on Mnisikleous, head downhill (away from the Acropolis) to the next street, Kyrristou.

Turn left.

 

Bathhouse of the Winds (Museum of Modern Greek Culture)

Halfway down the block, on your left, is this interesting museum housed in a Turkish bath from circa 1453 A.D., the beginning of the Ottoman occupation.

Plaka
The Bathhouse of the Winds is now an interesting museum space.

It is the only surviving public bath structure from that era. In 1998, it was restored and turned into a museum and exhibition space. The collection of Greek art and clothing is nice. The structure is just as interesting.

Exit the museum and turn left.

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Monastiraki.

You have crossed into the Monastiraki neighborhood. The area to the south and southeast of the Roman Agora is Plaka. To the west and north is Monastiraki.

Roman Agora.

The Roman Agora is likely built on a section of the earlier Greek Agora. The remains visible today are from circa 19 B.C. They lie east of the Ancient Greek Agora and a block south of Hadrian’s Library.

Plaka
The Roman Agora also sits at the base of the Acropolis.

Tower of the Winds (Horologion of Andronikos Kyrrhestes).

The octagonal building in front of you was once a clock tower. The structure dates from circa the 2nd century B.C., before the Roman Agora.

Plaka
The Greek Tower of the Winds was built circa 50 B.C.

It is the world’s first (known) meteorological station to feature a sundial, a water clock, and a windvane.
Turn left. After taking a photo of the Acropolis from this angle, walk one block uphill to the corner of the Roman Agora. Here, you have two options.

Choices:
  1.  You can extend your exploration by adding three museums and a Byzantine church, which will give you even more in-depth insight into ancient Greece.
    To do this, do not turn right at the Agora fence, but follow the stone sidewalk, which continues the street you just climbed (Mark. Avriliou). To the left of the terracotta home with the blue Acropolis directional sign. At the top, turn right and then take the first staircase to the left. This is Alimper Street, and there is actually an English sign. At the top, turn right, and our site is on the left.
  2. If not into more museums, turn right and follow the Roman Agora’s fence to the west end. Skip down to “Gate of Athena Archegetis” in the tour.

Athens University History Museum

Fans of University memorabilia will want to stop here. The collection contains rare book editions, manuscripts, scientific instruments, photographs, medals, diplomas, and other items from the old academic world of Athens.

What I find interesting is the building’s history. It was home to the first University of the independent Greek state, from 1837 until 1841. For almost a century, it was the only institution of higher education in Greece.

Exit the museum the same way you came in and turn left on Tholou. Go to the first staircase on your left. Take it to the top, and you are on Theorias Street. Turn right.

 

Holy Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior.

The small Byzantine church you see on your left dates from the 11th century A.D.

Our next site is two buildings down on the right.

Fun fact: the one-story building between the church and the museum houses a Mycenaean fountain fed by a spring under the Acropolis. Pottery found at the site dates the fountain to the late 13th century B.C. Unfortunately, it is not open to the public.

Paul and Alexandra Canellopoulos Museum

A private collection of Greek artifacts dating from 2700 B.C. is now on display. Small but impressive museum.

As you exit, turn right. Take the first staircase to the right, along the museum wall. This is Panos Street, and you are heading to #22 on your left.

Man and Tools – Museum of Modern Greek Culture

Spread across two floors of an old house, this collection includes pre-industrial Greek tools and products, mostly from the period after the War of Independence. Many of the exhibits are interactive, so if you have kids, or adults acting like kids…

Exit the museum, turn left, and follow Panos as far as you can. We are back at the Roman Agora. Turn left.

 

Gate of Athena Archegetis.

Here you see four Doric columns and a base, all made of marble. Now, the entrance to the Roman Agora; the structure was originally built as a monument dedicated to Athena Archegetis (Athena the Leader).

Plaka
The Roman Agora’s Gate of Athena Archegetis.

It dates from circa 11 B.C. and was funded by Julius Caesar and Augustus.

Would I visit inside the agora? Only if it is included in a multi-pass, which, unfortunately, in 2025, Athens started changing and discontinuing many multi-passes. The last time I visited (2025), it was €8, and there really isn’t anything you can’t see from outside. Did you see the view of the Acropolis from here?

Plaka
Separating Plaka from Monastiraki is the Roman Agora.

As you face the entrance to the Roman Agora, turn 180 degrees.

 

Library of Pantainos.

Dating from circa 102 A.D., it was funded by the philosopher Pantainos and was part of the Roman Agora. Today, it is located on the Athenian Ancient Agora site because it was built over a section of the Greek agora. Like most Ancient structures, it was destroyed (circa 267 A.D.) and used as building material for other structures. I think the best views are from here, looking down.

Continue clockwise around the Roman Agora. The road makes a 90-degree left turn. Just behind the trees, now on your right, is the next site.

 

Fethiye Mosque Museum.

Dating from circa 1675, this Ottoman Mosque was situated in the grain bazaar of the Roman Agora.

Plaka
Fethiye Mosque Museum, on top of the Roman Agora, which is on top of the Ancient Greek Agora…

After the fall of the Ottomans, it would serve as a jail, barracks, school, and even a flour warehouse. Today, it sometimes houses exhibits.

 

Museum of Greek Folk Musical Instruments.

Just past the mosque, across from the northeast corner of the Roman Agora, is this small but interesting museum. It is home to more than 1,000 Greek musical instruments dating back over the past 300 years. More than half of the instruments are on display.

The street you were following around the Agora, which made a sharp left, is Panos St. After seeing the mosque, continue down Panos as far as you can, until you trip over another Greek ruin. (They’re everywhere!)

 

Basilica of Megali Panagia.

Directly in front of you are the remains of this 5th-century A.D. Christian Tetraconch. Tetra – four, conch – shell, (four shells), so four apses, creating a building shaped as a Greek cross. Many believe it to be Athens’ oldest Christian church. A 7th-century and an 11th-century basilica were built upon the original, using it as building material. It is within the excavation site of Hadrian’s Library.

Plaka
The church sits on the site of the former gardens of Hadrian’s Library.

Backtrack and follow the excavation site’s outer wall to your right, to Areos Street. Turn right.

 

Hadrian’s Library.

Dating from circa 132 A.D., this was a monumental gift to the citizens of Athens from the Roman emperor. Hadrian was fond of Greece and would be the benefactor of many structures and public services, including aqueducts and baths.

What remains today is only half of the front wall. Look closely. See the white marble steps leading to what used to be the front door? There was a wall to the right of that, just as large as the one to the left (the remaining one). This western wall was 400 feet (122 meters) long. The walls are almost 30 feet high.

Plaka
The entrance to Hadrian’s Library Complex

The depth of the library complex was 270 feet (82 meters). Within the complex were reading rooms for the 17,000 scrolls and books. This was possibly in a two-story building on the east. In addition, there were lecture halls, a pool, and a garden.

Plaka
The grounds of Hadrian’s Library.

Can you picture yourself on a bench under an olive tree, reading Homer’s latest best-seller, eating a fig, and looking up at the Acropolis?

 

Monastiraki Square.

The main square for this neighborhood is a great meeting point. From here, you are within walking distance of Syntagma, the Main Market, Kerameikos Archaeological Site, the Ancient Agora, and more.

Monastiraki Square
Monastiraki Square.

 

Tzistarakis Mosque.

Also known as the “Mosque of the Lower Fountain,” it was built in 1759. To make lime for the building, legend says they ground down one of the pillars of the Temple of Olympian Zeus.

Monastiraki
Tzisdarakis Mosque on Monastiraki Square.

Just as tragic, they probably used pillars from the library next door. The Athenians believed it would release vengeful spirits upon the city. Later in the year, an outbreak of the plague hit the city. Coincidence?

After the War of Independence, it served as barracks, a prison, and a storehouse. Since 1915, it has been part of the Museum of Greek Folk Art.

 

Church of Panagia Pantanassa.

Meaning “Queen of All,” it is represented by an icon of the Virgin Mary as the Queen of Heaven. Based on its masonry, some date it to the 7th century A.D., while others to the 8th century due to its barrel-vaulted ceilings. Either way, it is old.

Monastiraki
Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Pantanassa.

It is not sinking. The square has been built up around it. It was referred to as the big monastery. Adjacent was a small monastery (Monastiraki in Greek).

Did I mention the view of the Acropolis from here?

Because people ask, I need to mention one other “attraction” of Monastiraki: the Flea Market. To the right of the Tzistarakis Mosque is a light yellow building with six arches across the front and white trim. This is the Monastiraki Metro station. To the right of the metro station is the main street of the flea (flee?) market.

Monastiraki
The Monastiraki Flea Market is easy to spot.

 

For the most “authentic Greek souvenirs made in China,” this is the place. There may be a treasure somewhere in there, but the crowds usually send me running.

Monastiraki
Monastiraki Flea Market.

 

Please hold on to your wallets and purses firmly while here.

I would prefer a cold drink at any of the rooftop bars that surround Monastiraki Square.

Monastraki
The view from a Monastiraki rooftop cafe.

 

Ermou Street runs along the north side of Monastiraki Square. Turn right on it, and it will take you back to Syntagma Square.

The main attraction in Monastiraki is the Ancient Agora of Athens. And it needs a whole section.

To reach the Greek Agora, head back to the entrance to Hadrian’s Library and turn right onto Adrianou Street. Walk two blocks. For Hard Rock fans, stop at Adrianou #52.

When you see the train tracks (subway) on your left, you are getting close. You will find the Agora entrance on a bridge over the tracks on your left.

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Side Trip.

Two other museums, which are (or are not) in Plaka but were not along our walking path, may be of interest.

Jewish Museum of Greece.

This small but interesting museum houses 2,300 years of Greek Jewish history, including the interior of an old Romaniote Synagogue. For tours of the permanent collection, you need to make a reservation. The ticket price is per group, so bring friends to share the cost. The museum is a 5-minute walk from the southwest corner of Syntagma Square (Mitropoleos St)

Frissiras Museum of Contemporary Greek and European Painting.

A short walk from the Jewish Museum, at 3 & 7 Monis Asteriou Street, is a private collection of contemporary paintings and drawings by Greek and European artists. The museum is in two fully renovated neoclassical buildings, one from 1860, the other from 1904. Although upgraded and modernized, they still hold much of their original charm.

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BACK TO: ATHENS

ATHENS ANCIENT AGORA

CENTRAL ATHENS

ATHENS WALKS

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