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February 24, 2019 – Tarragona


WHERE TO?                  THE SENSES.


 A Roman Holiday in Spain.

Sounds crazy, no? But if we do a real fast Europe history 101 – most of the Mediterranian was first settled by the Greeks. Then the Romans came along and changed the names of the gods and added their touches.

A Roman amphitheater next to the sea where gladiators and wild animals would arrive.

Then there were too many people, and every country was conquered, divided up, traded, reconquered until we ended up with what we have today.

Unfortunately, they destroy or recycle so many of the historic buildings.  We cannot study the Arabs here, or the Visigoths there, or what about those wacky Vandals?

We do not have that problem with the Romans. They like building so many structures, that even with recycling, there are still sites to see.

Roman remains “litter” the forum.

One of the best places to see this is in Tarragona Spain. About an hours drive or train ride southwest of Barcelona brings you to this famous town no one knows.

Tarragona in a Nut Shell.

There is evidence of people in the area back to around 200,000 B.C. But there is not enough evidence to know why, when, where or who these people were.

The Phoenicians in their gradual drift west from Greece first settle here around 500 B.C. When the Romans came along all they had to do was change the locks and put down new drawer liners. (This is circa 220 B.C.) They also rename it Tarraco.

Triumphal arches were very popular and too large to recycle.

Tarragona became the capital of the region and with that promotion came perks. An important city needs important “stuff”. On three human-made terraces (steps) the Romans build a worshipping area and maybe a palace fit for visiting emperors. The next level down houses the administration buildings and maybe a palace fit for visiting emperors. On the bottom terrace a Circus for the ordinary people. To keep the masses entertained, the Romans build a theater for drama, a circus for chariot races and an amphitheater for burning Christians.

The amphitheater is in better shape than many structures. It also suffers from recycling (stealing) of building material.

Today, there are remains of the forum, a cemetery, a theater and even 1/3 of the original walls. It is the oldest Roman settlement (this intact) in the Iberian Penninsula. All this leads UNESCO to declare 14 structures in and around Tarragona as World Heritage Sites in 2000. They are known as the Archaeological Ensemble of Tárraco.

On the surface, not much of the Circus (chariot race stadium) is visible. Make sure to go below.

So the Romans are enough reason to spend a day or two in Tarragona just for them.

 

Out In the Country

But wait, that’s not all. Book before midnight tonight, and you get Roman sites just outside the city. The remains of a Roman country home, monuments along the Via Agustus, and possibly a mausoleum are nearby. You should not miss the Roman Necropolis.

Dead men do tell tales at the Necropolis museum. It is fascinating what a grave can tell us.

Ohh, and there is the  Ferreres Aqueduct. Also known as the Pont del Diable, this 1st-century A.D. structure brought water to the city. This site is one of those that just never gets “old” to view. Maybe because it just doesn’t seem real. Prepare for many kodak moments at this site.

Les Ferreres Aqueduct, also known as Pont del Diable.

 

It is a long way up (90 feet) to the top.

Romans, Is that All?

So is Tarragona only a bunch of old Roman “stuff”? Hardly. Before moving on, I should mention the National Archaeological Museum of Tarragona, which is a lot of Roman “stuff.”  It ties many of the sites together.

A charming pedestrian passageway in the medieval old town.

The medieval old town, (within the “Roman” walls,) is a charming place of pedestrian streets, nooks, crannies, and a little whimsey. In one block, you may have architecture from four different centuries.

The cathedral, also on the UNESCO list, has more than 14 chapels.

Then there is the Cathedral. It took 200 years to build, so it features several styles of architecture. Each form was the latest thing at the time of construction. Even for the non-religious, a tour of the church and its attached museum will reveal some fascinating objects.

Manga Manga

Spain is no longer under Roman rule, so we are instead going to menjar, menjar (“eat” in the local Catalan language.)

The Catalan cuisine, one of Spain’s Mediterranian diets, is worth the trip alone. Most of the food on your plate will come from sixty miles or less from the table where you’re sitting. Seafood is huge this close to the Mediterranian. The fertile soil produces incredible produce and supports livestock that gives us drug-free meats and cheeses.

Fresh – fruit, vegetables, meats and cheeses.

Sure, if you’re a tourist, you can find Paella. If you look hard enough, you can uncover American chain-restaurants run by kings, clowns, and colonels. But why not try what the travelers and locals east?

Fideuà (also from Valencia where Paella comes from) is similar to paella. Instead of rice, it uses a small pasta noodle. Like the rice, the noodles are not pre-cooked, but “simmered” in a small amount of liquid in the low flat pan. This is a dish you only find in Valencia and Catalonia.

Spanish fideua is a typical seafood dish with noodles.

If you must have Paella, know that it may look different than what you are expecting. It is very common to include the ink from the squid which makes the rice almost black. They call it Arròs Negre.

 

Did the Greeks Leave Anything?

One of the things the early Greeks found here, and all along the Mediterranean, were grapes growing wild. They bring with them a little process they have been perfecting back home. They are able to turn the juice of the grapes into a magic liquid that will compliment any meal.  Years later, the liquid makes people think karaoke is a good idea, but I hold the Japanese responsible for that. Wine, it comes from the Greeks.

The Priorat region is known for bold red wines. Their whites are catching up.

An hours drive from Tarragona, are three wine regions with either a Denominació d’Origen Qualificada (DOQ) or DO classification. Thank goodness, they made it through Franco’s brilliant idea to pour all wine together in one vat and share it. They’re still here and Spanish wineries are now turning out award-winning vintages.

Anything Else?

If the above is not enough to fill a few days, what else can you do? Within 20 minutes drive from Tarragona, you can find the hometown of Antonio Gaudi. There is a fascinating museum of his work with interactive displays.

Dating from 1151 A.D., the Royal Abbey of Santa Maria de Poblet is a Cistercian monastery and UNESCO site.

Within an hours drive, there are hilltop towns, Templar castles, and even another UNESCO site. The Royal Abbey of Santa Maria de Poblet. is near the wineries in Priorat.

Why Are You Waiting?

December through February you have daytime temperatures in the 50’s. We know to skip the Mediterranean in July and August when all of Europe goes there on vacation. And it’s too hot.

The rest of the year you have lovely 60’s and 70 degree days with a breeze off the sea.

September is usually the rainiest month with a little less in October and less in November. May can also be rainy but rarely is it for extended periods.

So do like the Romans and head to Tarragona.

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Milan Italy” Continued on Page T3         French Wines” Continued on T4

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