Table of Contents:
UNESCO TARRAGONA
THE REST OF TARRAGONA
NEARBY TARRAGONA
Most people see Tarragona as a day trip from Barcelona, or worse, a combination day tour. There is enough here to fill up several days.
When did Tarragona begin? No one is entirely sure. There are a few signs that an Iberic town (Kesse?) may have been at this site but then, maybe not.
Indeed the Phoenicians landed here in their constant expansion west. Most agree it dates from before the 5th century B.C.
The Romans “documented” their time here. This town is the oldest Roman settlement in Spain. At one point, it was the capital of the Roman province of Hispania Citerior.
During this time, they would enlarge and fortify it as a Roman colony. The Romans add a fortress and arsenal as a defense against the Carthaginians to the west. The name of the town is Tarraco.
At the end of the Cantabrian Wars (29 – 19 B.C.), signaling the final Roman conquest of Spain, Augustus wintered at Tarraco. For their help in the victory, Augustus gave the town honorary titles and several public structures.
It became one of the wealthiest towns along the coast. From the port, they would trade products they grew on their fertile plain, which received abundant water and sun. The city is famous for its excellent wine and flax. At their height, they are minting local coins.
Not So Ancient
With the fall of the Western Roman Empire (476 A.D.) Gaul (today’s Spain and part of France) was ripe for picking. The Vandals (eastern Germanic tribe) were the first to arrive. Later the Visigoths would take over. They would have a good run until the Umayyad caliphate conquest of Hispania in 714. It would be an important border city until 1013 when the Moors overthrow the Caliphate of Cordoba.
They would hold on to it for another hundred years until the Christian forces regained it. Starting with the County of Barcelona in 1117, the Kingdom of Aragon would swallow it up in 1164, keeping it until the 1400s.
1469 AD. Ferdinand II of Aragon, heir apparent to the crown of Aragon, marries Isabella of Castile, sister of the Castile King. They will rule both kingdoms together. This period is a bloody time as the rulers do not like the Muslims, who still have a few strongholds in southern Spain. They also do not want anyone non-catholic, so they begin the Spanish Inquisition.
In 1516 A.D., Ferdinand dies. Isabella has already gone before him. His daughter Joanna inherits his kingdom. But, he put her in jail before dying so she could not reign. Her son Charles I becomes co-monarch. He rules both Castile and Aragon as a unified Spain. He is from the Hapsburg bloodline, so, within four years, he is Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor.
In 1700 A.D., Philip V, from the house of Bourbon, becomes King ending the Hapsburg rule. The Bourbons will be in and out of Spanish history for the next 300+ years.
The Last 200+ Years
Napoleon manages to stir things up in the early 1800s by making his brother King of Spain. That does not last long. In 1808, the Spanish-American War of Independence began in the Americas. Napoleon had his Waterloo in 1814.
For the next 170 years, all of Spain will bounce around between Republics and kingdoms.
Civil war and a dictatorship are also in there somewhere. In 1982, the Spanish people accepted the Spanish Constitution.
See Tarragona Sites.
It is hard to believe that the Roman ruins of Tarragona are not the most important Roman ruins in Spain. Many say that title goes to the city of Merida. But it did not stop UNESCO adding the Archaeological Ensemble of Tárraco to its World Heritage list.
These UNESCO sites include:
- The amphitheater – dating from the 2nd century A.D., it could hold up to 15,000 spectators. It was part of the trilogy (circus, theatre, and amphitheater) you would find in a significant Roman city. It was just outside the city gate and near the beach where they unload the gladiators and animals from ships.
Circ Romà – is a 1st century A.D. outdoor Roman chariot-racing track (circus.) The course was 1,480 ft long. Today, part of one turn is still visible. It is within sight of the amphitheater. You can access the underground section, and should.
- Torre del Pretori – (tower of the Praetorium) is the remains of a stairwell. It is part of the massive monumental complex, from the Vespasian building period (69-96 A.D.) As Tarraco becomes the capital of the province, it needs buildings conducive to the functions of a government center. These include the circus on the bottom level. On the middle terrace were the Offices of the Provincial Administration. As you walk up Carrer (street) Baixada de la Pescateria from the circus, you will see (on the left) a current-day row of apartments built on the foundation of the administration terrace.
- Museum of Tarragona History, which is worth a visit, is in the Torre del Pretori. Also, there is an elevator to the roof for great views. The third terrace of the complex was a worshipping area. Little remains visible of this terrace.
A Short Walk
The Roman Walls – are a seven-minute walk north and a little west from the Torre del Pretori. Here, you can see a large section of the Roman walls and their effect on the town’s growth. The fortifying of the walls by the Romans is easy to understand. The large Cyclopean foundations are probably from pre-Roman times.
Teatre Romà de Tarragona – was a gift from Augustus. Unfortunately, it, like so many other sites, was the victim of recycling. You can still see parts of the cavea (seating), the scaena (stage area), and the orchestra (the space between the seats and stage.) It is approximately 10-minutes walk west of the walls.
Forum Roma – was a civic project from Emperor Vespasian, sitting upon an earlier market. The remains are dating from 73 A.D. It would remain in use for more than 300 years. Although many of the structures are gone, the space it occupies will begin to give you an idea of the size and importance of the forum. It is an eight-minute walk from the teatre Roma.
A Little Further
Necròpolis Paleocristiana de Tarragona (The Early Christian Museum and Necropolis) – dates from the 3rd-5th centuries A.D. Preservation-wise, it is one of the best late-Roman cemeteries of the Roman Empire. Excavating began in 1923, and they have documented over 2,000 graves. Much of the museum is indoors. Going in, you might not think this is interesting, but you may be surprised. The museum is a pleasant 20-minute walk west of the forum.
Catedral Basilica de Tarragona (Santa Maria del Miracle) – is the main cathedral, and although not Roman, it is part of the UNESCO list. The current basilica took 200 years to build. Therefore it includes Romanesque, Gothic, and even baroque in some chapels dating from the 16th century. They consecrate the church circa 1331. Four of the stained-glass windows, dating from the Baroque period, are original. It sits on the former barracks and part of the sacred area of worship (third terrace) from the Roman Empire. Many believe the spot was also the location of a temple to Emperor Augustus. In 475 A.D., the Visigoth build their original cathedral, here, no doubt using material from the temple. The Muslims destroy this cathedral in 711 when they invade.
The Diocesan Museum is adjacent. Tickets include the cathedral, cloister, and Diocesan Museum, and there are tours with guides available as well.
Outside of Town (Still on UNESCO list)
North
Les Ferreres Aqueduct/Pont del Diable Bridge – is a first-century aqueduct that once brought water to the city. It is 712 ft in length, and the two tiers of arches push the water channel just short of 90 feet into the air.
The Monumental Complex of Centcelles – is a bit of a puzzle. It may be a villa, sacred building, or possibly a mausoleum, perhaps for an Emperor. Dating from the fifth century A.D., it is a well-preserved structure, and the mosaics are outstanding.
East
The Roman Villa of Els Munts – is along the sea, east of town. It was an enormous country villa covering acres. A statue of Antinoüs – Emperor Hadrian’s favorite lover, was uncovered here, indicating a connection with Hadrian. He may have stayed here when visiting the region around 123 A.D.
Pedrera del Mèdol (quarry) – is one of the most extensive local quarries they were mining in ancient times. Today, the remaining space is over 600 feet long and averages 120 feet wide. The center is a “needle,” showing the top of the hole where they began mining. Guests are free to wander the area on their own.
Tower of the Scipios – is also on the east side, closer to Tarragona. It is a funerary monument. Many were connecting to the Scipios brothers, both generals, erroneously. The structure dates from the beginning of the 1st century A.D. It would not have the bodies of the brothers from 300 B.C. Tradition would say it was for the local family who owned that piece of property. The N-340 follows the route of the ancient Via Aurelia (Roman road.) This monument was alongside it.
Arch of Berà – is also east of town and the villa. It is hard to miss as it sits in the middle of the N-340 highway from Barcelona. This 1st century B.C. honorary arch was a tribute to Augustus. The funding was by a wealthy local, Lucius Licinius Sura.
Other City Sites Inside the Walls.
National Archaeological Museum of Tarragona (MNAT) – is a museum collection dating from the 18th-century, making it one of the oldest in southern Spain. The exhibits focus on the rich historical heritage and ancient remains of this area. The archaeological findings date from the Roman and Early Christian periods. There is also a library.
NOTE – In 2018, the main museum building began an enormous remodeling program. During this time, a satellite museum will be open near the port. Please click on the museum’s link (in orange) for the current information when the main building reopens.
Old Quarter (Part Alta)
There are no set boundaries to the medieval Old Town. I consider it most of the area within the walls. Some of the highlights include:
Plaça dels Sedassos – a small square where one building has characters (and a horse) painted on the side of the building.
Casa Museu Castellarnau – one block from Plaça dels Sedassos is a restored aristocratic residence now showcasing 1700s & 1800s furniture & decorative objects.
City (Town) Hall – is one block west of Plaça dels Sedassos. The 19th-century building has an Ionic façade facing out onto Plaça de la Font. This area was all part of the old Roman circus. The building is on the grounds of a convent and is the location of the Mausoleum of King Jaime I. It is open to the public.
Casa Canals – is just inside the walls near the Portal (gate) de Sant Antoni. It is a historic manor home dating from the 15th century. It features lavish, 19th-century furnishings, and accessories.
Capilla de San Pablo (Chapel of St. Paul.) – is a collection of religious buildings, some dating from the 12th and 13th centuries. The Chapel of St. Paul, dating from circa 1220 A.D., sits in the garden of a seminary dating from 1884. Other buildings within the complex are the Church of Santa Tecla la Vella and the Urrea family chapel.
Hospital Medieval – is now just a facade on the south side of the cathedral. The building, dating from 1171 A.D., had additional work in 1464, but is no longer a hospital and is not open for interior visits.
Outside the Walls
Passeig Arqueològic, (Archaeological Promenade,) – is a path that winds between the ancient Roman walls and the curtain walls from more recently. Along the trail are small gardens and written explanations. Also, you will see the Archbishops and the Minerva Tower. Along the way, look for the oldest Roman sculpture and oldest inscription in the Iberian Peninsula. The path goes along the outside of the wall from Portal (gate) del Roser (north wall) to the Portal de Sant Antoni near the university.
Museo del Puerto de Tarragona – is the maritime museum now located near the port. Here you can learn about Tarragona’s naval history from the Romans first arriving until today.
Gaudí Centre – is an interactive museum in the Reus neighborhood of Tarragona. This area is where Antoni Gaudí grew up and went to school before leaving for Barcelona. The museum includes multi-screen audiovisual presentations and a 360º presentation featuring sensations and interaction. You will leave seeing Gaudi in a new light.
See the Locals
Mercat Central de Tarragona – is the central market for the city. In a building dating from 1915 and undergoing a substantial overhaul in 2017, you can find anything. Butchers, bakers, fishmongers, and fruit and vegetable stands, to name a few. Wider, crowded aisles replace the narrow, overcrowded corridors from days past. It almost seems too clean in places. It is still an excellent place for a progressive-meal and to see the locals.
Rambla Nova (Avenue) is similar to Las Ramblas in Barcelona. Stretching from the Plaça Corts Catalanes (a salute to the cheese grater monument) to the Balco del Mediterrani (Balcony of the Mediterranian), it is a wide sidewalk down the middle of the Avenue. This promenade is where the locals stroll in the evening. The similarities end there. It is much broader and, therefore, not as intimate. Trees are shading the sidewalk towards the middle, but not at either end.
It does not pass through the Old Quarter. Nor does it lead to a place (as a traveler) you might want to see like the Plaça de Catalunya. And then there is the traffic. On either side are two lanes of traffic and several busy streets you have to cross. The Balcony of the Med is an O.K. overlook of the sea. If you look straight down, you can see the train tracks.
One of the best things about Rambla Nova is the pick-pocketing is much lower than in Barcelona. Unless you need a walk after eight hours of sightseeing, this is not a must-see.
If You Do
The Monumento a los Castellers is a striking 36-foot high sculpture to the local tradition of Castells (castles.) This 200 plus-year-old tradition involves groups of people standing on one another’s shoulders, creating a human tower. There are 219 characters in a huddle supporting the five levels of towering figures. Faces you may recognize in the crowd include Picasso, Gaudí, and Joan Miró. Many other Spanish celebrities are present.
It was in this area where whole groups of Castellers were performing. The tradition is a member of the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage tradition.
If you visit during a festival, make your way to the city hall where you may see real Castellers competing.
Keep your eyes open. Throughout the town, you may see Latin, and maybe Phoenician(?), inscriptions on blocks of stones in the facades of buildings. Most of these are signs of recycling from earlier installations.