April 25, 2021 – Greece’s Greatest Asset

THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.

WHERE TO?                       TASTE.                        SEE.

This week, I celebrate the 25th anniversary of stepping foot in Greece for the first time.

I can still remember the excitement of walking out the plane, down the metal staircase, and across the cement tarmac. The old airport in Pireaus was not very modern.

A blood-pumping taxi ride to our hotel, a shower, and a nap to reset to “Greek time.”

That night, at a taverna deep in the Plaka, I would meet my local tour operators for the first time.

In a few short hours, I came away with a lot more than a working relationship.

Greece’s Greatest Asset.

Before the night is over, I will see Athen’s Acropolis lit up above us. Drive past the Temple of Zeus and Syntagma Square. There seems to be sightseeing on every other block.

The food we were eating that night was like no Greek food I ever remember eating. And I was working on Greek cruise ships for two years previous to this.

Great attractions, great food (and wine), and yet to this day, the people are the thing I remember most.

25 years later, I remember lying in my hotel bed at the end of day one thinking, What is it about the Greek people?

The Greek People.

The Greek word xenia means offering protection and hospitality to strangers. In his role as protector to strangers, the Greeks called him Zeus Xenios.

So I guess it is just in their D.N.A.

Do not get me wrong. I have friends all around the world. But I rarely have a first meeting that lingers quite so deeply.

The Greeks do not roll their eyes (at least in front of me) when I attempt to wrap my brain around their language. Speaking in Greek is not one of my superpowers.

Even on the smaller islands, where English completely disappears, especially in locals over 50, we communicate. Yes, there is a lot of pointing and bad charades on my part. They smile and try to decide if I am communicating or in the first stages of a stroke (fit?)

Luckily, W.C. seems to translate into all languages.

The Greek people have a gene that makes them want to help.

Greek Taxi Drivers.

Whether driving a car, minivan, or touring coach, most drivers try to communicate with me. Their English exceeding my Greek almost every time. Some of them have English that exceeds mine, but that’s another story.

One morning, very early, a taxi picks me up at my hotel in Kalambaka to take me to Meteora for the sunrise. The driver, from the area, tells me he moved to Athens as a young man. Now in his late 40s, he is back in Kalambaka driving a taxi. I wonder if he has the secret to life.

He takes me to several locations he thinks will give me incredible photo angles. He was right. Then he offers to take me to a local restaurant back in the town where they have the best breakfast. Unfortunately, I have others waiting at the hotel.

I return to my hotel, the camera full of pictures, and I with a new appreciation for Kalambaka and Meteora.

I did not want to get out of the taxi. I gave him twice the fare. When was the last time you did that in a taxi?

Another taxi driver gave me a panoramic tour of Poros during a three-hour period between ferries.

The driver from the Athen’s airport gave me a better summary of the Olympic preparations than the news.

The Greek people offer protection and hospitality to strangers.

Greek Restaurant Workers.

Today, finding anyone in Greece under 30 who does not speak English (a second language) is rare. Especially in the larger cities.

Finding someone over 30 who is working as a waiter or bartender is also rare. So in Athen’s, your chances of getting a Greek salad are good.

But what about in the islands and small villages on the mainland? Here, English may not be present as a second or third language.

Somehow I always leave with the purchase I was looking for or a great meal. Although I often get calamari (squid), which may result from my mispronunciation of kalimera (good morning.)

Dining in Greece almost always feels more like dining at someone’s table instead of a sterile restaurant.

Guides.

Here, I thank my lucky stars. I was fortunate to have some of the best, and we became friends.

I don’t think one of them would ever say I was an easy boss. But (I hope) they would say he wanted what was best for the guests.

And even though they say it is a form of endearment, I don’t believe any word starting with “Mala” is.

But many invite me for a meal, an ice cream, or coffee when it is not necessary.

And the gifts… A cookbook signed by the author, olive oil from their own trees, or a good-luck piece.

Family and Friends.

For a milestone birthday, I had a small group of friends follow me unknowingly (that describes a friend) to Greece. Did we go straight to our hotel? Up to the Parthenon? No.

Fearing her Greek wrath, if I did otherwise, I did what my adopted mother in Greece said I would do. I lead a group of strangers into her house, where we ate, drank, and were quite merry for several hours.

Yes, she made lamb for the ones in the group who don’t eat no meat.

No strangers left that house that night.

The last night of our surprise trip was also my birthday. Our group of ten people went to one of my favorite places for dinner. According to the group picture from that night, there were at least 22 at the table. Adopted family and friends made for a memorable evening.

We saw the Acropolis, Corinth, Mycenae, Epidaurus, had wine at a vineyard and did a museum on that trip. Not bad for only 60 hours on the ground.

Ten years later, the two events I still hear about most are the arrival and farewell parties.

My Greek family and friends leave a lasting impression.

Did I mention two trips to Greece were for adopted sibling weddings?

More Friends.

There’s the wife of someone I worked with on a ship through the islands. Outside of Saturday visits to her husband while we were in port, I have not seen her in 20+ years. When she heard I was only going to be on her island for three hours between ferries, what did she do? Put her family on hold and tells me to be one of the first off the ferry.

Not only did we see the entire island, but there was time to buy pistachios and have a drink.

Her son, who I remember being in her arms much of the time when she would visit, shows up. He can not remember me or the Rice Krispie treats (imported 25 years ago) I would sneak to him.

Doesn’t matter. There are no strangers in Greece.

The friends who would stop by my hotel or ship, because even 10 minutes was better than not seeing me.

If you have a cold bottle of Greek wine and two glasses, I could tell you so many more stories about friends.

Greek People.

I have been to almost every region on the mainland and all over the Peloponnese. Of the 227 Greek islands with human inhabitants, I have only been to around 20. (Slacker!)

Yet, I will venture to say I would find the same level of hospitality on the other 200.

I have seen most of the country’s UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Stood on the same spot as John, Paul, Luke, and Andrew. They are not a singing group. Read the New Testament for a who’s who.

And (after a few Ouzos), where Zeus, Athena, Poseidon, and King Aegeas, namesake of the Aegean Sea, once stood.

From Olympus to the Samaria Gorge, there ain’t no mountain high enough, or valley low enough I did not love.

The natural scenery. The caldera of Santorini, the stone pinnacles of Meteora, the blue sea, the brilliant sunsets, and on and on and on…

Every one of them a “Wow” moment.

And yet, what I remember most, the thing I take from 25 years of visiting Greece, is its people.

Yes, even my adopted Greek little brothers. Like little brothers everywhere, they need more discipline.

The Best Greek Souvenir.

Wherever you go, don’t miss seeing the destination through the local people.

Listen to them and try the foods they recommend.

They are the heart of the destination.

A year ago today, I was holding a plane ticket to Greece.

Let’s hope 2021 is the year we all get to explore again.

I need a Greek people fix. Care to join me?

Read more about Greek Cuisine.

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“See the World” Continued on Page T3.           “Taste the World” Continued on T11.