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The Jewel of the Riviera
A guest is asking me for the nice and easy tour. He has trouble walking. While suggesting several panoramic programs with a little walking, he gets pissy. Again, he wants the nice and easy trip I advertise. Then, I ask him to show me where I am promoting this.
He hands me the brochure pointing to the Nice (pronounced Neese) and Eze (pronounced Ezz, rhymes with fez) tour. I cannot make this stuff up folks.
I explain that Eze is a steep hilltop town, and the old part of Nice is cobblestones. After that, he is willing to take my suggestion.
Ancient Nice
A few artifacts from the hominid settlements near Nice date back around 400,000 years. Remains at the Terra Amata archeological site the use of fire, flint, and simple homes from around 230,000 B.C.
Fast forward to circa 350 B.C. when the Greeks Phoceans (Phoenicians) continue their expansion west from Italy. They name the area Nikaia after the Greek goddess of victory. Possibly due to a recent win.
The settlement soon becomes one of the busiest trading ports in the area.
It remains essential until circa 14 B.C. when the Romans build Cemenelum on a hill overlooking Nikaia. Closer to the road to Rome, the Via Julia Augusta, it becomes the new military and administrative center. The streets were for moving armies, not tourists.
The two cities remain separate, one a port, the other a military center.
Not So Ancient Nice
By the 7th century A.D., France is a mess. People are attacking from all sides. Nice needs a big brother to help protect it and joins the Genoese League to the east. At first, this pays off as they help keep the Saracens at bay circa 729.
Tribes merge or conquer other tribes, and within 100 years, the Saracens are back with a vengeance.
They return to Nice in 859 and again in 880, pillaging and burning the city. The Saracens will control southern France and Italy for most of the 10th century.
The Wacky Middle Ages.
Due to its capture as part of the Genoese League, Nice is part of (what will become) Italy through much of the Middle Ages.
It allies with Pisa against Genoa. Due to its location, it is attractive to both the King of France and the Holy Roman Emperor. Although both make several attempts to include it in their real estate portfolios, Nice manages to remain separate.
During the 13th and 14th centuries, as it bounces from owner to owner, the Counts of Provence join the quest.
Thanks to the city walls and two rivers creating difficult approaches, the city is easy to defend.
Circa 1388, Nice asks for protection from the Counts of Savoy in Turin. Nice will be part of Savoy on and off for the next 500 years.
Savoy immediately strengthens Nice’s maritime presence, strengthening walls and improving the roads to Turin. Eventually, the city will drop Latin and make Italian the official language.
The early 1500s, Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor, and Francis I, king of France, are at war. Up for grabs are the areas between their two empires. Guess where Nice sits? It will receive extensive damage from both sides.
In 1543, Francis I attacks by land, and the Ottoman pirate Barbarossa by sea. Although the city repulses the Siege of Nice, it has nothing left and surrenders to France.
1600 – 1700s Nice
In 1600, the Duke of Guise, a descendant of Francis I, opens the ports to all nations. Later they will proclaim full freedom of trade stimulating the economies of all the port towns.
The French capture Nice again in 1691 and turn it over to their allies Savoy in 1696.
Nine years later, France attacks Nice, seizing the land and demolishing the citadel and ramparts.
The 1713 Treaty of Utrecht returns Nice to the Duke of Savoy and names him the King of Sicily.
The Duke rebuilds the town.
From 1744 until 1793, Nice one again bounces from conquerer to conquerer, usually the French. With the French revolution of 1793, The Alpes-Maritimes department claims Nice, Monaco, and Genoa for France.
A captain in the 4th regiment of artillery in Nice begins to climb through the ranks. His name is Napoleon Bonaparte.
France in the 1800s.
With Napoleon’s first abdication circa 1814, there is the Treaty of Paris. The King of Sardinia, once the House of Savoy, receives Nice and Genoa. Monaco regains its independence.
The 1860 Treaty of Turin cedes French lands to Napoleon III, for assistance in the Second Italian War of Independence.
Giuseppe Garibaldi, a major player in the forming of the Kingdom of Italy, is a native of Italian Nice. He, and thousands of Italians, oppose France receiving their Nice. Eventually, their cries die out.
1900s Nice
Nice, Monaco, and the western Italian coast are now parts of three different countries. However, after hundreds of years together, they do not split. When Nice electrifies its tramway, it does so to Menton in Italy, through Monaco.
By the early 1930s, motorized buses were also connecting the three regions. Nice was also the largest port in the area.
By 1939, Nice becomes a refuge center for foreigners cut off by the Nazi progression into Eastern Europe. From Nice, many heading to ports in Morocco and North and South America. Nice was also an escape route for thousands of Jews escaping persecution.
By 1942, German troops are occupying most of France. Italian forces, allies to the Nazis, in the beginning, move into the Nice area. As many of the locals are recent Italians, the hostility is not great. When Italy attempts to jump to the other side a year later, German troops come down hard on Nice.
In the spring of 1944, American aircraft began heavily bombing the area around Nice in preparation for the Allied landing in Provence. Finally, by August 1944, American paratroopers can enter Nice and liberate the city.
Nice Today
Nice, is the gateway to the French Riviera. It is home to the largest airport in the area. There is also a direct link to/from Paris via high-speed train.
And there is the Mediterranian and the Port Nice.
The shore is not a white sandy beach, but millions of pebbles. Hence, the endless parade of beach clubs offering chairs and hospitality.
The city is like a small Paris, which is somewhat surprising after all the bombing in the war.
There is beautiful architecture, peaceful parks, and even an opera house similar in design to Paris’s Palais Garnier.
Everything nearby is so close. In one direction, less than an hour’s drive away, you have Cannes, Grasse, Antibes, and St. Paul de Vence.
In the other direction are Villefranche-sur-Mer, Monte Carlo, the Italian Riviera, and more.
It is the land of painters. The city is neighbors with the lavender fields of Provence.
This city is the home of everything, Nicoise.
It’s hard not to like Nice. It’s so darn…
Is there a crowd in the summer? Yes!. Do they speak French? Oui. Is it a glorious mixture of France and the Mediterranean? Yes. Nice is très agréable.
What is in Nice for me?
See & Hear.
This city is where neo-classical, Baroque, and the whimsical Belle Époque styles of architecture come together. From old town’s narrow streets to stately mansions on the hill, it is a pastel postcard of beautiful buildings.
Immerse yourself in one of the many art museums ranging from old to modern.
Or, sit on a bench along the promenade, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Strolling the old town can be a treat for the nose. For instance, you can smell (and taste) the socca just coming out of the oven. Or walk through the Marche aux Fleurs (Flower Market) with overwhelming colors and fragrances. Also, catch a whiff of the spices and herbs on sale from the fields of nearby Provence.
Feel.
Nibble on a salad Nicoise while sitting at a café in La Place Rossetti (in Naples Old Town).
Mothers are passing by with their purchases from the nearby outdoor market.
Laundry hangs from the balconies of pastel buildings.
There may be better ways to enjoy your lunch à l’extérieur (outside), but this one doesn’t suck.
SHOULD SEE SITES.
Sea Front.
- The Promenade des Anglais (English Walk). Dating back to the time of Queen Victoria, it is a gift from the English aristocrats. They would winter here and do their strolling along the shore. It now stretches more than 4 miles and has lanes for cyclists and skaters.
- Colline du Chateau (Castle Hill). Although there are a few ruins here and there, there has not been a castle since 1706 AD. Today this rock outcropping is home to a park popular with locals. Several lookouts are offering the best views over Nice. You can walk up a road on the Place Garibaldi side. From the Promenade side, climb the more than 100 steps or take a lift. Look to the left of the Hotel Suisse for these options.
- Hotel Negresco.– Approximately 20 minutes walk from the Old Town along the seafront is this luxury hotel. Dating from 1913, it has become one of several sites synonymous with Nice.
Myths.
Local myth #1 is that Gustave Eiffel (of tower fame) designs the stained-glass dome in the Royal Lounge. Not 100% accurate. The dome is by Belle Époque architect Edouard-Jean Niermans in the style of Eiffel.
Local myth #2. The chandelier hanging from the dome was a commission for Czar Nicholas II. With the October Rising (Bolshevik Revolution) in Russia, the Czar is not able to take delivery. Not True. Yes, there is no doubt the chandelier is for Russian nobility. The owner buys it to lure the Russians into the hotel to spend money. The hotel opening was in January, four and a half years before the October Rising.
Myth #2B. It was a match for a chandelier already in the Alexander Palace in St Petersburg. Not true. To be clear, Alexander Palace has LOTS of Baccarat crystal, just no “matching” chandelier.
Regardless, enjoy a drink in the Bar du Negresco. (They stop tourists just walking into the hotel). The dome is beautiful, and the chandelier I.S. by Baccarat, all 16,309 crystals on it. The all-day dining room, Brasserie La Rotonde, is also worth a peek.
Old Town.
- Vieille Ville (Old Town). Yes, you will find touristy stuff, but look past that to the pastel buildings in a mixture of styles. Indeed, visit the open market (in the morning) that runs the length of Cours Saleya. It is there every day except Monday. Just off the Cours Saleya at 8 Rue de la Poissonnerie is perhaps the last “painted” house in Old Naples. The second story facade shows Adam and Eve. (Maison d’adam et eve). The house dates from 1584. Then try “losing yourself” in the many little pedestrian streets running all through the old town. As a result, you find the real Provençal gifts, the bakeries, and the cafes full of local people.
- Palais Lascaras. Dating from around 1650 AD, it was a family home (mansion) for hundreds of years. Today it holds one of the most impressive musical instrument collections in France. There are over 500 pieces, with some dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries. The non-musical instrument lovers will find it worth a visit for the Baroque architecture and over the top interiors. The site is in the Old Town.
Not as Old Town
- Rue Saint-François de Paule. Walking west along Cours Saleya, you leave old town. At the same time, you are now on Rue Saint-François de Paule. On the left, you will see the ornate Opera House dating from 1885, which is still in use. On the right is the Baroque and Neo-Classical Church of Saint Francois de Paule. The current building dating from around 1775. Further along, also on the right is the Hotel de Ville (City Hall). From the outside, you can admire the Neoclassical architecture dating from 1730.
- Jardin Albert 1er. This lovely park offers a place to sit in the shade and re-center. This park is where the Promenade des Anglais and the Prom. Du Paillon meet.
Old Town Area.
- Prom. Du Paillon. This pedestrian walkway is less than a mile in length. It starts at the Promenade des Anglais (south) and weaves its way to the Promenade des Arts. It is a dividing line (or meeting place) for the city. On one side, you have the Old Town. On the other, the Jean-Médecin, (Upscale shopping) and the Place Garibaldi (museums & entertainment) neighborhoods.
- Place Masséna. This piazza is the living room of Nice. Crossing the Promenade Du Paillon near the southern end, it is a popular meeting point. At one end is the 20-foot tall statue of the Roman sun god Apollo in the Fontaine du Soleil. On the north end, department store Galleries Lafayette is the gateway to endless boutiques and high-end shopping.
Place Garibaldi.
Musée d’art Moderne et d’art Contemporain. MAMAC, is the central anchor of a two-block entertainment center, the Promenade des Arts. An assortment of modern pieces from the 1950s until today makes up the collection.
Other buildings nearby MAMAC include a library, the Théâtre National de Nice, and the Natural History Museum across the street.
Tête Carrée. At the opposite end of the Promenade des Arts from the Théâtre National is Tête Carrée or Block Head. This seven-story building houses the library offices. Indeed, it turns many heads.
Crypte Archéologique (Garibaldi Crypt) – is an incredible page from Medieval Nice they find while digging for the light rail. The digging uncovers the remains of walls, a moat, a drawbridge, aqueduct, and other buildings. Tour groups are small, and public tours are only in French. Pre-purchase these early. Private tours in English are available with reservations. There are approximately 30 steps down and back up.
Cimiez Neighborhood.
Musée Archéologique de Cimiez de Nice. The museum is on the site of the Roman city of Cemenelum, dating from the 1st century A.D. Not only can you see items from the excavations, but you can walk through the site.
Franciscan Church and Monastery. A small group of friars still keep up the church and its property. Inside is a small museum of documents and sacred art that somewhat tells the story of Nice’s Franciscan community. The community has been active since the 13th century. The church building, dating back to the 15th century, also has a cemetery outside. It is the final resting place of the painter Henri Matisse.
Jardin du Monastère de Cimiez. Starting as the garden and orchard for the monastery, today, they are the oldest gardens on the French Riviera. Also within the garden property is the Arènes de Cimiez. This arena is the amphitheater of Cemenelum, the Roman city, under and around the archeology museum.
Musée Matisse. In a 17th century villa between the archeology museum and the amphitheater is the Matisse museum. It is one of the most extensive collections of the artist’s work, including donations from the artist himself. Matisse was living in Nice from 1917 until his 1954 death. There are more than 600 objects, including paintings, statues, books, prints, tapestries, ceramics, and some of his incredible stained glass. The museum is usually open every day except Tuesday.
For Fun.
Excelsior Regina Palace. Across from the Arènes de Cimiez is a big wedding cake looking building. Built as the Excelsior Regina Palace hotel as a request from Queen Victoria of England. Construction began in 1896. Within 18 months, they are opening the doors. Why the request from Victoria? She could not find suitable accommodations for herself and a staff of 100 when visiting the Riviera each winter.
Because of the stock market crash, by 1938, the building is sitting empty. Then, it finds itself on the selling block. Thank goodness the buyers did not tear it down. By removing a wall here or there, they create 98 apartments out of 400 hotel rooms. Henri Matisse moves in soon after construction finishes.
Unfortunately, today it is a private building, and unless you know someone living there, you cannot just walk in. Another option is to buy an apartment. The units begin at around 7000 euros per square meter. But the outside is well worth a look.
You may be thinking, these sites sound very close together. The Cimiez sites are within ten or fewer minutes’ walk from each other.
Musée National Marc Chagall. The museum is the inspiration of the artist and a term of his will. The museum design is for the showing-off his most impressive biblical works. The highlight is his 17 paintings with inspiration from the Old Testament. Also, there are more than 400 other works with either secular or religious tones. The museum is usually open every day except Tuesday. It is about 25 minutes walking (predominantly downhill) from the Matisse Museum. Or 5 minutes in a car.
Further Afield.
St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Cathedral. A WHAT? The cathedral, dating from 1912, is for the large Russian community coming to Nice for the milder weather. The funding is from Tsar Nicholas II, the last Czar of Russia. Visiting inside during service is not possible, usually from noon to 2:00 pm. They expect you in proper dress, and they do not allow the taking of photos inside. Located a few blocks west of the central train station.
Less Than an Hour’s Drive
To the west:
Cannes – home to the film festival and extravagant shopping.
Grasse – the heart of the French perfume industry.
Antibes – with its wonderful medieval town and Picasso museum.
St. Paul de Vence – a whimsical hilltop town and the nearby Maeght foundation.
To the east:
Villefranche-sur-Mer – Riviera homes of music and film stars.
Eze – the wonderful hilltop town that is anything but easy to reach.
Monte Carlo – the glitz and glamour that began drawing people to the Riviera.
The Italian Riviera – stretches from Monaco almost to Tuscany. Past San Remo takes longer than an hour.
Nice Summary
As one of the largest cities in France, Nice has so much to offer.
It certainly has grand hotels and Michelin restaurants. But it also caters to thousands of French. There is great public transportation, inexpensive museums and galleries, and parks.
And there is real Nicoise cuisine. With fresh herbs and spices from Provence. As always, get away from the touristy parts of town and look for where the locals are eating.
You can walk the Old Town for free. Good luck getting past one of its bakeries (boulangeries), creperies, or pastry shops (patisserie) without buying.
Most towns along the coast are accessible by train. Sensible walking shoes are essential in all of them.
Get to Nice. Discover why it is so…