Table of Contents:
NOT SO ANCIENT EZE
WALK AROUND TOWN
AROUND EZE
Eze is a medieval village that sits on top of a jagged spit of rock. It is approximately halfway between Nice and Monte Carlo. You can see Eze (or glimpses) from miles away before you reach it.
The mythical Phoenix graces the coat of arms of Eze. The village’s motto is “Isis Moriendo Renascor,” which means, “When dying, I am reborn.”
Ancient Eze
People were living in the area surrounding Èze circa 2000 B.C. according to findings found near Mount Bastide.
The name Èze first appears in maritime books by the name St. Laurent of Èze. Excavations in the area uncover ancient Greek silver libation bowls dating from the 3rd Century B.C.
The Romans came after the Greeks. The Moors, who came across from Morocco and conquered much of Gaul (today’s Spain and France,) also ruled here briefly.
Around 973 A.D., William, I of Provence, pushed the Moors out of the area, and they call him the Liberator.
By 1383, Eze is under the control of the Counts of Savoy dynasty (Italy.)They build new fortifications due to Eze’s proximity to the port of Nice and the Roman road, Via Julia Augusta.
During the next few centuries, Eze, Nice, and most of this area pass back and forth under a host of conquerors. From the Italians, it goes to the French, then the Turks, and ends up back under Savoy.
In 1706, the French king Louis XIV ordered the destruction of the fortress walls while battling the Spanish for control.
It isn’t until 1860 that Eze officially becomes part of France. So far, they are managing to keep it that way.
Eze Today
On a clear day, from Eze, you can see to Nice in the west.
In between Nice and Eze is Villefranche-sur-Mer, past home to Tina Turner and a present vacation home to Elton John. Eze-sur-Mer, where Bono has a home. And the peninsula of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, once the winter home to European royalty. Today the houses are owned by corporate and software royalty such as Paul Allen and Bill Gates.
Between Nice and Monte Carlo, there are three highways called a Corniche, (which means a road cut into the edge of a cliff.) The Lower Corniche (Corniche Inférieure) follows the railroad line above the coast. It goes up and down but let’s say it is at sea level for a simple explanation.
The Middle Corniche (Moyenne Corniche) averages an altitude of 1200 feet above the sea.
The Upper Corniche (Grande Corniche) was a building project by Napoleon to move troops into Italy. It follows the remains of a 2000-year-old Roman road known as Via Julia Augusta dating from 13 B.C. It averages an elevation of 1600 feet above the sea.
The Only Way is Up.
One look and you will see Eze is more vertical than horizontal. You park or leave your transportation at the bottom of the village. Luckily, this is just off the Middle Corniche, saving you 1200 feet of elevation change from sea level.
However, there is still a climb to reach the first set of shops. There is a long driveway you must climb. From then on, the village is a series of paved pedestrian pathways. They are on an incline and switch to stairs when the slant gets too steep. There are very few flat surfaces in Eze. From the parking area to the very top of the village is approximately 200 feet in elevation change.
I do not say this to scare you away but to inform you what to expect. Knowledge is power. You are going to wear extra practical walking shoes with traction and not carry heavy bags or backpacks. I used to beeline to the top and then take my time to see Eze coming down. Now I seem to take my time in both directions.
If coming from Nice on public transportation, take the bus. It will drop you off near the village parking area. There are buses from the train station (sea level), but they are not direct.
The local church has a prominent clock tower on it. If you see Eze correctly, time will not matter.
A Tour of Eze
At the very top is the Jardin Botanique d’Èze (Eze Botanical Garden). The majority of the plants are cactus and succulents. You can also see small parts of the castle that stood here from the late 1300s until 1706. There is a fee to enter the gardens, which also offers incredible views from the top.
The “Orange Church” actually has a name. The name is Notre-Dame de l’Assomption. (Our Lady of the Assumption.) This neo-classical building you see now dates from around 1778. It replaced a previous church on the same spot. The financing is by the Duke of Savoy, who rules this area at that time. They remove the original dome after lightning strikes it several times. The interior is Baroque.
Are those the only sites?
The main attraction is the town itself. Part of the fun is losing yourself in this maze of passageways. When you are ready, start following the walks downward. There are little shops and art studios tucked everywhere. Once inside, you cannot see Eze as a whole, only the next passageway.
There is a small cemetery adjacent to the church where the majority of the tombstones are in Italian. A reminder that this area was Italian for many years before ceding to France.
There’s A Small Hotel
On the ocean side are two small luxury hotels, the Chateau Eza has fourteen rooms and suites. Their dining room and terrace have 180-degree views of the coast. There is also a seating area to have a drink.
La Chèvre d’Or has 43 rooms and suites, four dining rooms, and a comfortable old bar.
Perhaps it is the elevation or the incredible views but people “see things” here. The German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche would climb the path from the seaside to Eze Village daily. The trail now bears his name. Legend has it that he saw the final part of his “Also Sprach Zarathustra” while on this hike.
The name for Chèvre d’Or also comes from a legend of a Yugoslav violinist who saw a goat (Chèvre) with a golden fleece. It leads him to a hidden stack of gold coins which he uses to build a house.
Now fact and fiction kind of entwine. A restauranter by the name of Robert Wolf falls in love with the musician’s house. He buys it to open a restaurant in 1953. – Fact.
Walt Disney stays there for several months – (Ummm, in the lounge? It’s a restaurant.) Maybe somewhere nearby and he ate here? It is a fact that Mr. Disney spent time photographing and sketching different locations for something he was building in Anaheim, California.
Walt suggests he make it into a hotel. – A fact, or a lovely thought?
A Dream is a Wish
Robert Wolf turns it into a hotel – Fact. Over the next several years, he purchases adjoining properties and makes them into rooms. A large portion of the homes on the seaside is now part of the hotel.
In 1954, Marcel and Nelly Tilloy, who runs a hotel and restaurant in the Rhône Valley, contact Mr. Wolf. They want him to join a marketing plan they have for eight hotels stretching from Paris to Nice. Each property is a leisurely drive from the last one. Each hotel is unique in design and shares a love of excellent cuisine and hospitality. They call it the La Route du Bonheur, the Road to Happiness.
It is a success. These eight properties are the beginning of the prestigious hotel association: Relais & Châteaux. – Fact.
I have yet to dine in their two-star Michelin gourmet restaurant. However, I may have a history of enjoying a glass of wine in the bar or on the terrace. Before you get the check, remember you are paying for the view and location. These are outstanding.
Both hotels close for November. La Chèvre d’Or remains shut until March. If you plan to eat here, make reservations first, then book the flights.
(BACK TO TOP)
Eze in a Sachet
There is a small factory of the Parfumerie Fragonard from Grasse, France. Here, you can make your scent. They also have a shop nearby.
Galimard, another famous name in French perfume since 1747, also has a shop here. Their main store is in Grasse as well.
Have you ever been inside a Parfumerie? I did not say a department in a busy box store, but a shop dedicated to scents. If your travels will not take you to Grasse, stop in for a whiff.
Walk Like a Roman, My Son
Have you ever walked a mile in a Roman “s Toga? Unfortunately, there is very little of the Via Julia Augusta remaining that you can walk on. The closest section is almost an hour’s drive to Ventimiglia, Italy. It is virtually unrecognizable and only a few hundred yards in length. Walking on the Grande Corniche, which replaced the Roman road, is extremely dangerous and should not be attempted. So where can you take a hike?
Besides the Nietzsche footpath leading from Eze Village down to sea level (notice I didn’t say up?), there are other great walking places around Eze. Many are near the Grande Corniche.
Fort de la revère (Fort of the Revere) is a military structure dating from 1885 above the Grande Corniche, above Eze. It was one of a series of installations to defend the area. The fort is not open for visiting. However, you can circle the fort from the outside, getting occasional glimpses into the defense. There is also some signage explaining the fort. Do not forget to turn around. The view of Eze, with the sea behind it, is a kodak moment.
The area around the fort is one of three hiking areas in the Le Parc de la Grande Corniche. The other two are Plateau de la Justice, towards Nice, and La Forna, closer to La Turbie. Walking, hiking, or just enjoying the view can be done from any of these spots. On a clear day, the view from Plateau de la Justice can reach to Saint-Tropez, 83 miles to the west.
Not to Praise Him.
In La Turbie (a ten-minute drive from Eze,) you can see something that has ties to the Via Julia Augusta. The Trophy of Augustus (Tropphee D’Auguste À la Turbie. ) Augustus builds it in 6 B.C. It was to “honor” (quote marks intentional) Octavius, the nephew of Caesar.
It also marked the border of Italy and Gaul, which Augustus had just defeated. The remains of the tribute stand 162 feet tall, and it is, well, monumental.
What Good is the Grande Corniche?
It depends on who you ask. For locals, it is a quicker way between Nice and Monte Carlo, especially on workdays during rush hour. It stays constant with traffic for the rest of the day.
For travelers, it provides incredible views and access to places with additional lookouts. Try to drive it at sunrise or near sunset for a little less traffic.
And the answer to the question no one wants to ask, but eventually does, No, this is not THAT road.
One of MANY false reports stemming from the 1982 accident was that Princess Grace was on the Grande Corniche. Others said the middle Corniche. Both are wrong. Princess Grace and her daughter Stephanie were traveling from the family farm north of La Turbie. From La Turbie, they took the D-37, which drops down to Monte Carlo. Unfortunately, it has several dangerous curves.
See Eze Summary.
Although there are a few things to visit, you will soon see Eze isn’t about sites. The meandering walkways are very picturesque, the views impressive. But there’s a feeling that is hard to describe, and that is the reason to visit Eze.
If there are cruise ships in the harbor (Villefranche or Monte Carlo,) stay away between 10:00 AM and 4:00 PM. Trust me on this one. See it in the early morning or before sunset. After dark, with the lights of the Riviera twinkling below, is a great time to see Eze.