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NEW HYDRA.
SHOULD-SEE HYDRA.
How do you describe Hydra? It’s slightly 60s and a little bit new age. On the lips and minds of the jet-set in the 1960s, if you were to ask any of them (living) today, the general response would be “whatever happened to Hydra?”
Ancient History
Did Hydra have an ancient history? Yes. Do we know anything about it? Not really. The few excavations they are finding are not extensive or giving up many clues. They tie back to the Mycenean civilization on the Peloponesse, which you can see from most places on the island’s north side.
Less Ancient
For the most part, Hydra’s history begins during the Ottoman invasion sweeping west from Asia in 1453 A.D. The island had some inhabitants already. Due to a lack of fresh water, there was very little interest from anyone sailing by to settle here. This disinterest includes the Ottomans who pass it by. It becomes a refuge for people fleeing the Ottomans on the mainland and larger islands the Ottomans were seizing.
For the next 300 years, they did their best to live here and, during this time, slowly build a fleet. In 1749, the first naval academy in Greece opened on Hydra. Things are going well for the island.
Within 50 years, Hydra declines first from a devastating plague that kills a large number of islanders in 1792. For many, this is the last straw, and they move to the mainland where life is a little easier, and the Ottoman presence is beginning to crumble. The Merchant Marine Academy remains.
During the Napoleonic Wars (1803-15), the Merchant Marine successfully broke through the English blockades and supplied France and Spain. Due to its success as a naval power, they begin to fortify the harbor as they fear their success will invite others looking to steal it.
The New Greece.
In 1821, Greece began its fight for independence. The Merchant Navy of Hydra has 186 battleships and 5,400 men and plays a significant role in helping the cause. Hydra produces several naval heroes. People start returning to Hydra. In addition to the Merchant marine, the island’s primary industries are sponge diving and fishing.
Hydra prospers, even though it still lacks a source of fresh water. Things go well until 1941, when the Nazi forces occupy Greece. Greece suffers significantly during World War II financially, but more so in loss of life.
A Casualty of War.
After the war, Hydra flounders. In the 1950s, they begin receiving tourists looking for Greece, as described in author Henry Miller’s novel “Colossus of Marousi.” Then two movies, one in 1957 with Sophia Loren (Boy on a Dolphin.) Then Anthony Perkins and Melina Mercouri’s (1962 Phaedra) put the island on the big screen. Tourists, predominantly European, begin to come to the island.
Loren and Mercouri return to the island on vacation. Canadian musician Leonard Cohen buys a house and sings about the virtues of the island. Celebrities visit such as Richard Burton, Joan Collins, and Jackie O. Musicians also find Hydra, including Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, Pink Floyd, and many others. Eventually, they discover other islands and move on.
Hydra Today
Today, it is somewhat Greece’s answer to Martha’s Vineyard. It’s an hour from Athens by fast ferry, so it is an easy escape for Athenians for the weekend.
It is also the stop for yachters heading to or from Athens. Many arrive in time for sundowners and dinner ashore. Come morning; they are off to their next port.
Whereas on Martha’s Vineyard, it is next to impossible to find a car unless you live on the island. On Hydra, it is impossible as there are no cars. Outside of a few vehicles for utilities and sanitation, motor vehicles, including the gnat-like scooters, are not allowed.
This lack of auto leaves you with three options, donkeys, water taxis, or your own feet.
Not only does this keep down the traffic, but it probably keeps over-development down as well.
The majority of restaurants and cafes are in Hydra, and almost all of the nightlife past 10:00 pm.
Should See Hydra
The Town
For all intent, there is only one town on the island. A few beach areas have an inn or two, a few houses, and a taverna (small village), but most people live in Hydra (Hydra town, Hydra Port).
The harbor has a natural amphitheater shape forming a bowl. As you enter the port, you can see some of the fortifications dating to the 1800s on your left.
Melina Mercouri Hall is a public space named after the famous Greek actress and later politician. Between May and September, it houses art shows and festivals. It is to the right of the fortifications.
Historical Archive – Museum of Hydra – is adjacent to the ferry pier to Mercouri Hall’s right. Here you can see Hydra’s cultural heritage through 19th-century art & archival documents.
Monastery of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary – is under the clock tower. It is also the town’s main cathedral. Inside, you will find Byzantine-style architecture, 18th-century frescoes, and Orthodox decorations. There is a small Ecclesiastical Museum off of the church courtyard.
Kountouriotis Mansion Museum – is a well-maintained former mansion on the hill above the town, dating from 1780. In addition to the original interiors, there are paintings by Greek artists, furnishings, and other artworks. Lazaros Koundouriotis was a shipowner who was supplying ships and finances to the Greek War of Independence.
Villages.
Hydra Kaminia (Kamini) – is approximately a 20-minute walk along the coast to the west of Hydra. The paved trail will take you up past the ruins of the windmills that mark the harbor’s west side. Kamini is a small fishing village with a few tavernas overlooking the harbor. They serve fresh fish off the boats.
A 5-minute walk beyond the harbor brings you to the Kamini beach. This shore is a pebble beach (aqua shoes or sneakers) with chairs for rent and facilities.
Kamini is my choice for sunset watching.
Vlychos Beach – is an additional 20-minute walk along the coast from Kamini. Follow the paved path up and over the hill to reach it. As you come around the last bend, you will see the village and its old stone footbridge. There is also a full-service beach here. The beach is one of pebble, so I highly recommend foot protection.
Vlychos Plakes Beach – is another 20-minute walk. Here there are accommodations, but not a village. The beach is no different than the other two you have passed. The only reason to come this far is if you are staying here, or you need the exercise. This beach is the location of the Four Seasons Hydra, a charming hotel featuring an older estate house. This property has no relation to the luxury resort and hotel chain of the same name.
Beaches
In addition to the three beaches already mentioned, there are a few more I would only suggest if you are here for several days.
Bisti Beach is the next down the coast from Vlychos Plakes. Take a boat from town. O.K., you can walk it, but unless you have a goat on one side of the family, I don’t recommend it. Total time walking each way is around three and a half hours over dirt paths for half of the walk. Bisti is another pebble beach, with chairs for rent and one snack bar. You may want snack/power bars and water if the generator is not working or did not get their delivery. Pretty setting and sometimes not crowded. Mid-June to mid-September, get there early if you want a chair.
Agios Nikolaos Beach – is approximately three and a half-hour walk each way to reach a stone beach with rent chairs. There is a small bar with snacks.
Water Taxis
There are scheduled water taxis to the beach. They do a few morning runs and then usually stop midday before resuming again in the late afternoon for the trip back. These boats leave from the middle of the harbor and have signs generally on the back of the ship.
The boat trip to Vlychos Beach is approximately 8-minutes each way and around 8 euro pp round trip. You must buy a round-trip ticket even if you are walking back.
The boat trip to Bisti Beach is approximately 20-minutes each way and around 12 euro pp. Round trip.
The boat trip to Agios Nikolaos Beach is approximately 30-minutes each way and around 15 euro pp. Round trip.
Private Water Taxis – are another option. Departing from the corner of the waterfront closest to the ferry pier, they will take you anywhere, at any time, for a price. They can hold up to eight guests (without luggage) and become feasible (to me) at six people. Prices during my last visit (summer 2019) to Bisti was 75 euro per boat. And 85 euro to Agios Nikolaos.
Hiking
In the spring and fall, Hydra is an excellent island for hiking. If hiking is your activity, then try the hikes to Agios Nikolaos and Bisti beaches. You can always bring the boats back.
For a quick hike, follow one of the pedestrian streets leading away from the harbor. Get lost in the streets and climb as high as you want.
For a little more exercise, go further up, or walk along the coast to Vlychos Beach or further.
Prophet Elias Monastery – is more than 1600 feet above sea level. The hike takes approximately two and a half hours each way for people in good health.
The current building dating from 1813, is the only male monastery on the island. The monastery has an impressive library for its size, including old manuscripts. The views are the reason for the climb. Nearby is the Agia Efpraxia nunnery. As of the summer of 2019, only two nuns are in residence.
Dining
Hydra has an abundance of good tavernas and cafes. I suspect that is because it attracts more Greeks for overnight stays than tourists. In town or along the coast, I have never had a meal I did not enjoy.
After dinner, take a walk along the seafront to view the lights on the Peloponesse shimmer across the straight.
You should feel younger when you return.