BACK TO ITALIAN WINE
Table of Contents:
GRAPES
VENETO WINE REGIONS
THE D.O.C.s AND D.O.C.G.s
Veneto Cuisine Italian Beers. Italian Spirits.
Veneto has 43 D.O.C. (D.O.C.G.) zones of wine. That number makes it confusing already.
To this, we add 10 I.G.P. regions.
The three most famous are the red Valpolicella (including Amarone). There is the white Soave, and Prosecco, a sparkling wine.
The Veneto region is the biggest D.O.C. producer in Italy. The total yearly output averages over 94 million cases.
Veneto is a third of the Tre Venezie, along with the Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol regions.
The majority of Veneto’s production is white wine, with Prosecco leading the whites. 73% of the Veneto wines are at the D.O.P. level.
Ancient Veneto Wine
The Veneto wine region has been dabbling in viticulture since the Bronze Age (1500–1200 BC).
This history makes it one of the oldest winemaking regions in Italy and Europe.
Long before the Roman Empire spread, there were little villages producing wine for local consumption.
But, when the Romans arrive at circa 200 B.C., they change that quickly.
They cultivate the landscape into farms for the growing of produce.
Also, they set aside large portions for planting grapevines.
Soon larger central villages begin popping up. Verona and Venice are two of them, and they become regions of wealth and influence.
Not So Ancient Venato Wine
The Romans hold steady until the fall of the Roman Empire circa 476 A.D.
Barbarians swoop in, and the people of the region scatter hiding along the coast and fleeing to nearby islands.
Then, the Barbarians depart, and the church sweeps in and snatches up the vineyards. They put the monasteries in charge of wine production.
Also, some of the noble families get in on a good thing.
The port of Venice improves the region, teaching the artisans skills, and making sure they have the supplies they need.
And they import new vines. Whatever the winemakers need.
This act is not to better the poor but to make art, fashion, and wine for the nobles.
Word of the reputation and superior quality soon spreads, and Venice is exporting these crafts all over the world.
And, profiting very handsomely.
Venice becomes a fashion and winemaking powerhouse. Also, their importing takes off due to their monopoly.
Unfortunately, this also makes the port a target for other countries.
During the constant border-shifting times (700 A.D. – 1866 A.D.) Venice falls under the Lombards, Franks, France, Austria, and German rule.
The Last 100+ Years
Italian wine goes through its worst years from 1870 to 1950.
First, the European Phylloxera epidemic destroys many of the vineyards, especially those in the north.
As they rebuild from this, they open the first Italian school for vine-growing and enology in 1885.
Veneto is also the first region in Italy to host a “Strada del vino” (wine road).
This route features specific road signs providing information on vines and the wines in the area.
WWI weakens the economy, allowing the National Fascist Party, under Benito Mussolini, to take control.
They rule from 1922 to 1943. During this time, the government makes the vintners mix quality grapes with rotten grapes into one mediocre wine.
Also, during this time, Italy is in the middle of WWII.
The war destroys many of the vineyards.
What wineries can afford to replant, plant cheap, easy to grow grapes for the worldwide market.
Soon Italy is a significant source of cheap table wine. Also, the reputation that goes with it.
After The War
In the 1960s, The Italian government creates a two-level “quality” wine grading law. Why? So they can “protect quality.”
Translating this into English, it means “to tax the wine producers.”
There is still table wine, which has few restrictions. The rest now fall under these two.
- D.O.C. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata).
- D.O.C.G. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita).
With each new level, there are more restrictions and higher fees.
Also, it is corrupt almost from day one.
It creates a surplus of frustration, but very little good Italian wine.
Despite the government’s interference and greed, many parts of Italy begin returning to their excellent wines of days past.
Today, Italy ranks as one of the largest producers and exporters of wine worldwide.
Veneto Wine Today
Of the 140 wine routes (Strade dei Vini) in Italy, several of the best are in Veneto. The Strada del Prosecco, Strada del Valpolicella, and the Strada del Vino Soave.
The term is a little misleading as no one wine seems to have just one route anymore.
And you can make up your own, lasting a few hours or several weeks.
You can go to drink wine, but there are charming towns and historical sites along the way. Don’t rush. And take time to taste the local cuisine.
Also, decide how you want to explore.
There are private tours, group tours, or you can drive yourself as long as there is one non-drinker in the group.
Also, there are several areas where you could rent a bike.
Veneto wines are some of the more famous Italian wines worldwide, especially the red Valpolicella, white Soave, and sparkling Prosecco.
They continue to improve themselves. Even the local table wine is excellent, 98% of the time.
The Grapes
Without making this a graduate study, let’s look at the most popular grapes in Veneto wine.
The region’s primary grape varieties are Glera (white), Garganega (white), Merlot (red), Corvina (red), and Pinot Grigio (white).
Reds
- Cabernet Franc – is a blending grape for Bordeaux-style wines.
- Cabernet Sauvignon – is a significant ingredient in super red wines.
- Carmenère – is another blending grape for Bordeaux – style reds.
- Corvina – is an ideal grape for air-drying, creating a light color and tannins. Aromas and flavors include violet, blackberry, and red cherry.
- Corvinone – is a blending partner with Corvina. You can find it in Amarone, Valpolicella, and Bardolino.
- Malbec – is solely a blending wine in Veneto.
- Merlot – is the most popular red grape in Veneto. It is a blending grape for many red wines.
- Molinara – is another blending partner of Corvina.
- Raboso – is high in acid, and tannins making it suitable for a blending wine.
- Rondinella – is the most reliable of the Valpolicella varieties. They blend it with Corvina.
- Tai Rosso – is similar to the French Grenache. It is a significant component of many of the I.G.P. reds.
Whites
Whites are the powerhouse in Veneto.
Soave and sparkling wines dominate the category, but there are some others to try as well.
- Barbera Bianca – is a significant component in many Veneto whites.
- Durella (Durello) – originating from the Veneto region, is no longer a popular grape. Some sparkling wine producers are experimenting with it due to its high acid levels.
- Garganega – is one of the oldest and most popular white grapes. It is a significant component of Soave.
- Glera – has two varieties, Glera Tondo (the most common) and Glera Lunga. Both are high in acidity. They grow them together and blend them for Prosecco. The Glera grape used to be called Prosecco.
- Manzoni Bianco – is a white grape, similar to a Reisling, that they blend for still, dry white wines.
- Marzemina Bianca – is an indigenous grape to the area. They blend it for dry as well as sweet whites.
- Pinot Bianco – is the Italian version of Pinot Blanc. In Veneto, they use it for producing still, sparkling, and sweet dessert wines.
- Pinot Grigio – The Tre Venezie is the primary producer of Italian Pinot Grigio. It is one of only a few wines using one grape.
- Verduzzo – is a grape they use in making dry and sweet whites. The majority of the vines grow in Veneto, but it is more prevalent in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region.
- Vespaiola – is a grape they often dry, creating more intense sugar content. They use this concentration to produce sweet dessert wines.
Veneto Wine Regions
The Veneto does not have clear sub-regions like many Italian wine regions.
For lack of a better map, they are the West and East regions.
The west region stretches west from Padua to the shores of Garda Lake. The area includes plains, river valleys, and a lake.
The climate is the result of the warmer Adriatic winds. Wines from this area include Valpolicella, Amarone, and Bardolino.
East of Treviso is the other region, north of the Adriatic, where it gets colder, moister air.
These colder conditions suit the white varietals like Garganega, a significant part of the Soave.
Another major factor in the wines of Veneto is the Dolomites, the Italian Alps. They provide a wall from the cold air of Northern Europe.
Also, they provide elevation, creating excellent conditions for the Glera grape, a significant component of the sparkling wines.
The Veneto Wine D.O.C.s and D.O.C.G.s
Veneto has more D.O.C.G.s and D.O.C.s than many of the other regions in Italy. D.O.C.s number 28. D.O.C.G.s number 14.
Wine production in this area has been a large part of the history of the region.
What are Veneto D.O.C.s or D.O.C.G.s?
Italian wine labels, just like the ones in France and Spain, must show a set of the necessary information.
These include producer name, appellation, vintage, alcohol content, etc. The Italian system mimics the French appellation system in many ways.
The D.O.C. and D.O.C.G. categories first appear in 1982.
- D.O.C. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) covers almost every traditional Italian wine style.
There are over 300 individual D.O.C. titles in Italy. Each one has a set of laws governing its viticultural zone, the grape varieties, and wine style they can produce.
- D.O.C.G. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) is the highest classification for Italian wines. First, they need to follow all the rules of the D.O.C.
They also receive a whole new set of strict regulations governing the production of D.O.C.G. wines.
These include grape varieties, the yield limits, how ripe the grapes need to be, and on and on. Then every D.O.C.G. wine goes through official tasting tests.
There are also IGT and Vino da Tavola status for Italian wines.
As there are not specific regions, we will list the appellation near a city, starting in the west.
Lake Garda
The lake sits on the western edge of Veneto, where it meets Lombardy. The appellations are on the east side of the lake. But spend some time at the lake.
D.O.C. Wines
- Bardolino D.O.C.
- Breganze D.O.C.
- Lugana D.O.C.
- San Martino della Battaglia DO.C.
- Valdadige / Etschtaler D.O.C.
- Valdadige Terradeiforti / Terradeiforti D.O.C.
Verona
The city of Romeo and Juliet lies 30 miles east of Lake Garda. Drink enough wine, and you will believe that is her balcony. I will be in the Roman arena.
D.O.C.G. Wines
- Amarone della Valpolicella D.O.C.G.
- Bardolino Superiore D.O.C.G.
- Recioto della Valpolicella D.O.C.G.
- Recioto di Soave D.O.C.G.
- Soave Superiore D.O.C.G.
D.O.C. Wines
- Arcole D.O.C.
- Garda D.O.C.
- Merlara D.O.C.
- Soave D.O.C.
- Valpolicella D.O.C.
- Valpolicella Ripasso D.O.C.
Schio
The town sits in the foothills of the Dolomites, approximately 40 miles northeast of Verona. A charming little village in a valley.
D.O.C. Wines
- Breganze D.O.C.
- Lessini Durello / Durello Lessini D.O.C.
- Monti Lessini D.O.C.
Vicenza
South, southeast of Schio, Vicenza is back in the plains region at a lower altitude. Sample the wine, but do not miss Palladio’s, Teatro Olimpico.
Nearby are the two castles of Montecchio Maggiore. This setting is where Luigi Da Porto found inspiration for his novel, “Newly found story of two noble lovers.” It tells about two warring families and their children Romeo and Giulietta. He writes this circa 1524.
D.O.C.G. Wines
- Recioto di Gambellara D.O.C.G.
D.O.C. Wines
- Colli Berici D.O.C.
- Gambellara D.O.C.
- Vicenza D.O.C.
Padua
Padua lies approximately 25 miles further east and south of Vicenza. The proximity to the Adriatic Sea makes for a different climate. Does cake go with wine? Here is a great town to find out.
D.O.C.G. Wines
- Colli Euganei Fior d’Arancio / Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei D.O.C.G.
D.O.C. Wines
- Colli Euganei D.O.C.
- Corti Benedettine del Padovano D.O.C.
- Riviera del Brenta D.O.C.
Rovigo
This region is the southern part of the Veneto, 35 miles south of Padua. It sits in the fertile Po River valley. Just across the river is the Italian region of Emilia-Romagna.
D.O.C.G. Wines
- Bagnoli Friularo / Friularo di Bagnoli D.O.C.G.
D.O.C. Wines
- Bagnoli di Sopra / Bagnoli D.O.C.
- Corti Benedettine del Padovano D.O.C.
Asolo
The town sits approximately 45 minutes northwest of Venice, sitting in the foothill of the Dolomites. The city is charming, as well as the countryside.
D.O.C.G. Wines
- Asolo Prosecco D.O.C.G.
- Colli di Conegliano D.O.C.G.
- Colli Euganei Fior d’Arancio / Fior d’Arancio Colli Euganei D.O.C.G.
- Montello Rosso / Montello D.O.C.G.
D.O.C. Wines
- Montello–Colli Asolani D.O.C.
- Venezia D.O.C.
Vittorio Veneto
The town is approximately one hour’s drive east northeast of Asolo, along the Dolomite foothills. This area is the land of sparkling wines.
D.O.C. Wines
- Prosecco D.O.C.
- Vigneti della Serenissima / Serenissima D.O.C.
Portogruaro
This region starts 30 minutes east of Venice airport around the town of San Dona di Piave. It stretches east for approximately 30 miles past the city of Portogruaro. This area is the eastern end of the Veneto region, where it borders the Friuli Venezia Giulia (Udine) region of Italy.
D.O.C.G. Wines
- Lison D.O.C.G.
- Piave Malanotte / Malanotte del Piave D.O.C.G.
D.O.C. Wines
- Lison-Pramaggiore D.O.C.
- Piave D.O.C.
Are these all the wines of Veneto? Hardly.
We did not even touch on the I.P.G. wines. These are the D.O.C.’s in training.
Unless you are a wine snob, you can be delighted with these wines. And they are usually less expensive than D.O.C.s.
Also, there are table wines you can find in every village.
I usually stick with these at mealtime because what goes better with the local food?
But the list above should give you a good start on sampling the Veneto wines.
Veneto Wine Summary.
The regions are far enough apart that you need a minimum of three days to make a dent.
And the wine routes can make each region a leisurely afternoon or an intoxicating week.
Perhaps spend the morning touring a palace or seeing where Hemmingway found some of his inspiration. Then visit a winery, or two, in the afternoon.
Or join a culinary class – many of these classes end at lunchtime with your cooking and local wine.
Also, most of the wineries require reservations for touring and some even for tasting. Schedules may limit the number you can visit in one day.
And there are other possibilities.
Shakespeare’s Verona, culinary Padua, and the many masterpieces of Andrea Palladio’s (Palladium) architecture await you. The town of Vicenza alone is a who’s who of his work.
Also, you have the scenery. Mountains, rivers, and plains lead to the sea.
Venice is delightful, but don’t miss the Venato just across the lagoon.
Come, let’s taste Veneto wine.