TASTE PIEDMONT

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Table of Contents

LOCAL PRODUCTS.
PIEDMONT CUISINE SPECIAL ADDITIONS
TASTES OF PIEDMONT

Wines of Piedmont.                       Birra Italiana.                        Italian Spirits.

Many people believe Italian cuisine is pizza and spaghetti. That would be the same as saying American food is only hamburgers and french fries.

The preparation of a chicken in the American south differs from that in the north. In Italy, just about every region has their spin on Italian cuisine.

Let’s start with the basics. Every region uses Italian olive oil for cooking. Wrong! In many of the northern areas, you have thousands of acre of cattle and no olive trees. Here you are going to find butter in the recipe.

The cheese of Piedmont is not identical to the cheese of Tuscany or Lombardy, even if they are next door.

Nuts, fruits, and vegetables vary due to climates. The average temperature in Southern Italy in August is 86. In northern Piedmont, it is 80. The south may get just under 1.5 inches of rain, where Piedmont gets closer to two. This water makes a big difference in what will grow where.

Chefs in Italy do their shopping at the local farmers market, not the frozen section of a store. If hazelnuts or apples do not grow locally, they may not show up in local dishes.

When you match local food with the local wine, you will have a much deeper immersion into the destination.

Piedmont Cuisine and the North.

In Piedmont, you will not find extensive use of olive oil, pasta, or tomato sauce. What? Then it is not Italian.

We already know that olive trees are not as plentiful. Sauteing is in butter, and sauces include cream and cheese.

Local rice (what?) and corn (polenta) replace pasta in many dishes. You can find pasta; it is just not the king.

Local, local, local is the key. In Alessandria, 50 miles from the sea, you should find seafood and shellfish depending on the season.

One hundred miles further north, where Piedmont touches the Alps, you may find fresh water fish, but not saltwater varieties.

Piedmont (Piemonte).

Even within Piedmont, different sections have their own stories and traditions.

Piedmont has the alpine Valle d’Aosta to the north, home to the Matterhorn. (What?) The Matterhorn is too big to fit just in Switzerland. It straddles both countries.

Lombardy to the east, home to Milan, Como, and excellent wines,

Liguria to the south stretches along the Italian Riviera from Monte Carlo to La Spezia.

During the middle ages, their borders are continually shifting.

Then to stir things up even more, Piedmont was part of France in the early 1800s.

So different climates, terrain, nationalities, and neighbors make Piedmont a culinary destination, even without the pasta.

Torino (Turin) is the principal city of the region. The areas around it are predominantly agricultural.

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The Piedmont P.D.O.

Although Piedmont cuisine uses the best ingredients, a few of these are a step above, earning P.D.O. Status.

D.O.P. (P.D.O.) products come from a specific area. They have characteristics due to that geoclimatic environment, and production takes place in that region.

I.G.P. (Protected Geographical Indication) is less specific. Part of the product, and only part of the production must take place in the region.

For example, in a P.D.O. Wine, all the grapes come from the region where they make the wine. An I.G.P. may have grapes from various areas, and part of the wine production may take place outside the zone.

P.D.O. Products have many more rules and regulations. You should see that in the quality and, unfortunately, the price.

In Piedmont cuisine, they have several P.D.O. Products, including cheeses, meats, vegetables, and fish.

Cheeses:

• Bra D.O.P. – is a cow’s milk cheese from the town of Bra. They may add a small amount of goat or sheep as well. When fresh, it is a soft cheese, but it hardens with time.
• Castelmagno D.O.P. – is predominantly cow’s milk cheese dating back at least to the 1200s. They serve the semi-hard cheese alone or in recipes.
• Gorgonzola D.O.P. – is another century-old cow’s milk cheese. They add starter bacteria to create the veining.  The texture ranges from buttery to crumbly. It is salty, with a bite.
• Grana Padano D.O.P. – is similar to Parmigiano-Reggiano and comes from the Po River area. It begins soft and mild, taking on a harder, crumblier texture and more pronounced flavor with time. You will find it throughout Piedmont cuisine.

• Murazzano D.O.P. – is at least 60 % of sheep’s milk and comes from Murazzano. The white cheese is mild at first, taking on more of a sheep’s milk taste with time.
• Raschera D.O.P. – is a cow’s milk coming from pastures around Cuneo. The hard cheese has a grassy aroma and a flavor that goes from mild to salty-spicy with age.
• Roccaverano Robiola D.O.P. – is a soft cheese from 50% or more goat’s milk; the rest may come from a cow, sheep, or a mixture. It is best as a young table cheese or in recipes with its delicate, slightly acidic with age, flavor.

• Taleggio D.O.P. -dating from Roman time is a cow’s milk. Although it has a strong aroma, the flavor is somewhat mild with a fruity tang. It is popular in salads and sauces.
• Toma Piemontese D.O.P.  – is a semi-soft cow’s milk cheese. It has a pleasant aroma and full, sweet flavor that goes well with bread when young.

Meats.

• Salamini Italiani alla cacciatora D.O.P. – is a sweet pork sausage they dry cure. It has a ruby-red color.
• Cuneo prosciutto Crudo D.O.P. – is a lean ham that requires a minimum of 10 months aging. It has a slightly sweet taste.

Meats appear in Piedmont cuisine more than in the diets of regions to the south.

Fish.

• Tinca Gobba Dorata del Pianalto di Poirino D.O.P. – is a relative of the carp they raise in fresh water lakes. It picks up subtle flavors from the cloudy clay water. Frying is a popular preparation.

Whereas Piedmont cuisine features more meat due to availability, it’s seafood offerings are fewer.

Rice.

Italy is Europe’s largest rice producer with Lombardy and Piedmont leading the pack. Over the last 600 years, they have come up with the Arborio and Carnaroli varieties, excellent for risotto. There is no doubt why it shows up in Piedmont cuisine.

• Riso di Baraggia Biellese e Vercellese D.O.P – is a whole grain brown rice that comes in seven varieties. Some are best for risotto, while others for casseroles or rice desserts.

I.G.P.  PRODUCTS.

Meat.

• Mortadella I.G.P. – is a sausage luncheon meat (think bologna) pork, with small cubes of pork fat and black pepper. Sometimes they may add nuts such as pistachios.
• Salame Cremona I.G.P. – dates back to pre-Roman times. This pork salame has a mildly spicy flavor Salame Piemonte I.G.P. – is pork salame they flavor with nutmeg, cloves, garlic, and local red wine. This mixture creates a delicate sweet taste.

Vegetables and fruit.

• Fagiolo Cuneo I.G.P. – is a white bean with red flakes popular in soups and salads.
• Fragola Cuneo I.G.P. – are sugary, bright red-orange strawberries. Look for strawberry festivals in May and June.
• Mela Rossa Cuneo I.G.P. – are firm, crunchy, juicy apples from the Braeburn, Fuji, Gala, and Red Delicious varieties. You will find them in several local recipes.

• Chestnut of Cuneo I.G.P. –  is a crisp, sweet chestnut Italians eat fresh. Roasting and boiling are also popular at the Cuneo chestnut festival in October.
• Marrone della Valle di Susa I.G.P. – is a chestnut from the Susa Valley. It has a crunchy consistency, sweet flavor, and a unique aroma.
• Tonda Gentile Trilobata I.G.P. -are hazelnuts with a crunchy flesh and fantastic flavor and aroma. They are extremely popular in the local pastries, desserts, and liqueurs.
• Cervere Leek I.G.P. – has a sweet taste and is more tender than other leeks due to the soil.

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Special Additions to Piedmont Cuisine.

Truffles

Piedmont or Alba Truffle – is the winter white truffle (Tuber magnatum.) Due to the abundance in Piedmont, many refer to it by its source, rather than its name.

What are truffles? They are a fungus that grows underground near the roots of hardwood trees like oaks, chestnut, hazelnut, and others. The majority are around an inch or so across. Large ones are rare and escalate the already hefty price.

The white truffle has a firm flesh, is a pale cream to light brown, with white marbling throughout.

It has an earthy (shallot?) flavor often with a hint of the nuts from the nearby tree roots. The white truffle has an intense aroma of minerals and woodsy notes.

They harvest truffles from October to December, and Alba hosts the Truffle Fair during this time. On the second Sunday in November, they hold the Alba White Truffle World Auction.

How do you cook a truffle? You do not. Or if you try, an Italian chef will carve you up like a Parma ham. Although truffle oil may be in a recipe, the truffle itself only goes on a final dish. The heat from the entree releases the aroma and taste.

The Slow Food Movement.

What is the Slow Food Movement? It is a movement that began in 1986 near the Spanish Steps in Rome. Carlo Petrini, the founder, was not happy about an American fast food restaurant (with Golden Arches) in a historic area.

Unfortunately, the “fast” food goes in, but it begins the “slow” food movement that now reaches over several continents.

What does any of this have to do with Piedmont?

The international headquarters for Slow Food is in Bra, Italy, less than 40 miles south of Torino (Turin).

Not only is it home to the headquarters, but since 2004, it is home to the University of Gastronomic Sciences. “Slow Food U” offers undergraduate, graduate, and post-graduate degrees in various fields of gastronomy.

The University is in the Agenzia di Pollenzo, once belonging to the House of Savoy. Today, it is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The movement began to preserve the traditional recipes and cooking methods of the Italian kitchens countrywide. As it has become global, the philosophy has grown. Today, they are creating a world where people can access food that is good for them and the growers. Also, it is good for the planet.

Every two years, Slow Food International, Piedmont Region, and the City of Turin hold the Terra Madre Salone del Gusto. It is an international gastronomy exhibition offering food producers and artisans from across the world. It takes place on even years, 2020, 2022, etc.)

The University is a noteworthy addition to Piedmont cuisine.

Speaking of the UNESCO World Heritage.

Do you know what a “Cultural Landscape” is?

That is the definition of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Vineyard Landscape of Piedmont: Langhe-Roero and Monferrato.  The status refers to five wine-growing areas and a distinct castle, with outstanding landscapes.

Another unique addition to Piedmont cuisine is the incredible Piedmont wine.

The UNESCO site covers much of the Langhe and Montferrat sub-regions in southern Piedmont. This status makes them some of the most prestigious wine-producing zones in Italy.

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Piedmontese Cuisine.

The cuisine reflects the characteristics of the land and the various people in power over the centuries.  The House of Savoy, ruling first the northwest of Italy, and later the Kingdom of Italy from 1003 to 1946. They are undoubtedly responsible for the elegant dining aspect of Piedmont.

There is a link to the centuries-old wine history of the region, as they own the first vineyards. And they bring chocolate to their court before anywhere else in Italy and remove pasta, a food of the poor.

Then there are centuries-old peasant dishes that live on today.

Piedmontese Antipasti.

Antipasto does not mean before the pasta, it means before the meal. Traditionally, it is the first course after sitting at the table. It is similar to an American appetizer. The Aperitivo is also l an appetizer. In Italy, it is a small snack you eat standing up with a drink. Olives, nuts, cheese, or similar finger snacks fit this category.

• Carne Cruda – is local beef tartar they dress with a lite drizzle of Extra Virgin Olive Oil and salt.
• Vitello Tonnato (Vitel tonne) – in Piedmont is an antipasto. It could be an entrée. After marinating the tender veal in white wine, they boil it. A velvety sauce of tuna, anchovy, and caper liberally tops the meat. It sounds strange, but it is one of the most popular dishes with locals.
• Insalata Russa – may come from Piedmont. Another dish compliments of the house of Savoy, it was for visiting Russian aristocracy. It is a potato salad with carrots, peas, hard-boiled eggs, and pickled gherkins.  It is wildly popular at Christmas and early summer.
• Tonno di Coniglio – means rabbit-like tuna. It comes from preserving a rabbit in the same manner as tuna. After boiling the rabbit in a carrot and celery stock, they cool it completely. They then store it in olive oil with garlic and sage emulsion for at least one day.
• Bagna Cauda – is a famous Piedmont dip for local fresh vegetables. It consists of anchovies, Olive oil, butter, and garlic, all in healthy amounts.  It is best when they serve it in a pot over a flame to keep it hot.

Cheese.

Milk production plays a vital role in Piedmont’s economy. In addition to the 10 D.O.P kinds of cheese above, the region produces another 40 varieties of cows’ milk cheeses.

• Fonduta – is a cheese dip of fontina cheese, milk, egg yolks, and butter. In Piedmont, expect a garnishing of white truffles.
• Bros Cheese – is a Piedmont peasant recipe originating to salvage stale (dry) cheese. By adding grappa (grape brandy), it would make a cheese and brandy spread. The taste and aroma are potent.
• Brus da Ricotta – starts at the other end. They ferment moist sheep’s milk ricotta for a month or more, using chili or black pepper to add some kick. There is no alcohol.  It holds a “traditional Piedmontese product” status.

Sausage (Salumi).

• Salam d’ la duja – is a favorite in damp areas like Novara and Vercelli. Unable to cure meat traditionally, they cover it with melted lard (duja) in a clay pot. They eat it as salami or in a rice or bean dish.
• Fidighin – is a Mortadella (large salami) from pork liver, they serve as an entree. They use the duja style of curing.
• Melron’d crave – is goat meat that they pickle and smoke. They then boil it for eating. It is a disappearing item.
• Bresaola Ossola – comes from lean veal they season with pepper, cinnamon, cloves, rosemary, thyme, and white wine. They slice it thin, like prosciutto.

Piedmontese Primo.

The first course consists of a hot, usually non-meat dish. It is slightly heavier than the antipasto, but not as heavy as the second course. Pasta is a popular choice, but not mandatory. A larger serving of an antipasto may also appear here.

Pasta.

They do not have many, but the ones they do are all worth trying. The Piedmont pasta dough contains more egg yokes per pound of flour than any other Italian region.

• Ravioli Plin – is a peasant meal trying to use everything they have, in this case, leftover bi of meat. They stretch the meal by putting the scraps into dough pockets before plin (pinching) it together.
• Agnolotti Piemontesi – is Plin deluxe. The meat filling includes herbs, and the pasta will have a topping of sage butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

• Rabaton – is a vegetarian gnocchi-like dish. The filling contains wild herbs, ricotta, grated Parmesan, eggs, breadcrumbs, marjoram, and nutmeg. They roll (rabat) the dumplings in flour, par-boil, then finish off in the oven.
• Miacce – are a popular wafer in the Alpine province of Vercelli. They are very thin, salty, and crunchy round wafers. Another variation includes a softer dough with a stuffing of bacon, cheese, or butter (savory.) A dessert variation consists of a cream, sugar, and cocoa filling.
• Corzetti or Croxetti  – are small circles of pasta they stamp with a design. They boil the pasta and top it with a sauce.

• Tajarin – is a narrow handmade noodle, they simmer in beef broth. They top it with butter, nutmeg, grated Grana Padano cheese, and truffle shavings. This pasta is the typical dish of Cuneo.

Pasta Sauces (Sugo).

There are as many sauces as there are ingredients. A few of the popular ones include:

• Burro e Salvia – melts butter and adds fresh sage right before serving. There is no cheese in the sause, as it is a separate layer.
• Salsa ai Funghi (or pasta ai Funghi) – in Piedmont will feature fresh porcini mushrooms. They saute the mushrooms in butter and garlic with a few small tomatoes until the liquid evaporates. They add some cheese, Parmigiano, right before mixing with the pasta.
• Ragu – is a meat sauce. In Piedmont, they mince, chop or ground meat, including beef, chicken, pork, duck, goose, lamb, veal, or others. They cook the meat in a broth, which may include wine, cream, or tomato, or a combination. If they use tomatoes, it is only to compliment the meat. Ragu in Piedmont is not a tomato sauce, but more of a meat stew.
• Salsa ai Pomodoro (tomato) – is like eating a tomato, with garlic and seasoning. The sauce has no sugar; less it brings on the wrath of the Nonna (grandmother.)

Risotto.

Starting with a broth from meat, fish, or vegetables, they add the local rice and cook to a creamy consistency. In the Piedmont version, expect to find butter, cheese, and white wine in the recipe.

Other ingredients may include mushrooms, asparagus, borlotti beans, cured pork, or other seasonal vegetables.

And on top, Piedmont truffle shavings.

Piedmontese Secondi.

Think of this as the entrée. Due to Piedmonte’s prized cattle industry, you will find beef and veal on the menu more than in southern regions. They grill, braise, and boil meat in many mouthwatering recipes.

• Brasato al Barolo (Barbaresco) – is veal they braise in the local Barolo wine until tender. They may also use the local Barbaresco or Nebbiolo wine. All beef In Piedmont, they serve beef rare unless you ask for “bencotto” (gasp); well done.
• Tagliata – features the under-filet of the local Fasone cow, a very lean filet. They sear it on all sides. Then they mix the drippings with olive oil, garlic, rosemary, lemon juice, and balsamic for an au jus. I dare anyone who orders filet medium-rare or above to try this.

• Arrosto di Maiale (Pork) or Vitello (Veal.) – is a roast of pork or veal they slow cook. In addition to the rosemary, garlic, and sage, some wrap it in bacon or pancetta. Others add lemon juice to the marinade.
• Panissa – is risotto extreme. In addition to the rice, there is local salami, Borlotti beans, lard, local red wine, and grated Grana Padano cheese. It is a perfect cold-weather dish.
• Coniglio con peperoni (Broken rabbit with peppers) – is pieces of rabbit they saute with onion, carrot, tomato, and wine.

Misto (Mixes).

• Fritto Misto (fried mix) – is another cold-weather favorite. A recipe from the low class who would cook every part of the animal (mix.) Today, you will find it on Sunday or special menus. There can be anywhere from 10-30 different items, creating a three-course meal in one. They prepare each item separately before frying, so each item tastes different. Meats can include beef, veal, lamb, or pork. Liver, sweetbreads, and other parts of the animal are possibilities. Fruit and vegetables are seasonal. Sweets can include semolina fritters, amaretti cookies, or apple fritters. They bread everything and fry it in a mixture of extra virgin olive oil and butter. Need I say, not for the picky eater.
• Bollito Misto (boiled mix) – is also popular in cold weather. They simmer several cuts of beef until tender. They serve the meat with typical salsas for additional flavor.

  

   

Sauces.

• Bagnet Verde (green sauce) – includes anchovy, parsley, garlic, and breadcrumbs in a pesto-like sauce.
• Salsa Rossa alla Piemontese (Bagnet Ross) – is a hot (spicy) tomato and pepper sauce. It may also include mustard and vinegar.
• Sugo d’arrosto (Tocco d’arrosto)– is a roast sauce from the meat drippings (beef, veal, pork, chicken). They add butter (or olive oil), wine, garlic, rosemary, sage, or other herbs to the meat drippings. They may use it as a sauce for the meat, or flavoring to a pasta or risotto.

Sides 

Polenta

What exactly is it? It is a dish using cornmeal and heating it with a liquid. That is about as generic as it gets. The fluids can range from water to dairy to stocks. The final consistency can be a little thicker than pudding or thick enough to cut with a knife.

The regions cannot even agree on one name for it. Case in point, in Piedmont, they call it Concia. Meliga is also a local name for polenta.

It does not end there. The primary ingredient, cornmeal, comes in different sizes.

Bramata is cornmeal with a coarse grind. This grind makes a rustic polenta like oatmeal, to serve with roasts and stews.

The texture of the medium-ground flour is perfect for complementing vegetables and legumes.

The finely ground is like flour, creating a smooth polenta, similar to cream of wheat.  This pairs with fine meats and delicate dishes.

• Polenta Concia – is a popular variation in Piedmont. Along with the cornmeal, there is butter and Fontina cheese. Think of eating warm cheesy cornbread with a spoon. This dish is more prevalent in the winter when you need carbs for hibernating.

Other Sides and Vegetables.

• Gnocchi alla Bava – is Piedmont’s macaroni and cheese. Buckwheat gnocchi in a creamy Toma and Fontina cheese sauce with a dash of nutmeg. There is nothing healthy about it except for the release of endorphins.
• Santena asparagus – The Asparagus festival takes place during May.
• Piedmont Porcini mushrooms – are second only to those of the Emilia-Romagna region.
• Ivrea pearl onions – make anything tastier.

Piedmont Cuisine Special Mention.

There are twelve Piedmont vegetables in the Slow Food Presidium. These are products that are near extinction, and hopefully, making a comeback.

• Carmagnola Ox Horn Pepper – are long yellow or red sweet peppers from Carmagnola, the pepper capital. The Carmagnola Pepper Festival is near the end of August.
• Peperone di Capriglio – are small round sweet peppers from the hills of Capriglio d’Asti.
• Peperone di Senise – from the Basilicata area, are long red peppers with little heat and sweet flavor. They are popular fresh or as a sun-dried powder.
• Peperone Quadrato della Motta – are squarish red or yellow meaty, sweet peppers from Motto. They serve them raw, but also grill, stuff, or fry them in olive oil.
• Asti Sorì Artichokes – may date to at least the 15^th century. They harvest these sweet, tender chokes in May – June.
• Caprauna Turnip – comes from an elevation of 3000 feet. The town of just over 100 still harvests them by hand in winter.

More Vegetables.

• Caraglio Heirloom Garlic. – They harvest this easy to digest garlic on June 24, the feast day of Saint John the Baptist. It then dries for a minimum of 40 days. There is a festival the day before harvest and the third Sunday in November.
• Cureggio and Fontaneto Blond Onion. – Due to the overdevelopment of the area, this overly sweet onion almost disappears. Thank some farmers with an original plant in their garden, this onion is making a comeback.
• Moncalieri Cauliflower – was a gift from the House of Savoy. Unlike American cauliflower, it has an ivory, almost yellow color. It is not as fragrant and easier to digest. Unfortunately, it takes longer to harvest, so many farmers no longer try.
• Nizza Monferrato hunchback cardoon – is a leafy green vegetable you can fry, stuff, or use in soup.
• Orbassano Red Celery – is another gift from the House of Savoy. More flavorful and tender than regular celery, it, unfortunately, takes longer to harvest. You must buy it from farmer markets.

Salute to the Italian chefs that are incorporating these items into their Piedmont cuisine. They are part of the solution.

Piedmontese Bread.

Grissini is the iconic crispy breadsticks, with a history dating to circa 1670.

As a child, Vittorio Amedeo II, the Duke of Savoy, was often ill, placing him in a weakened state. A local baker, on the advice of the Ducal doctor, comes up with something easy to eat and digest. The young duke would go on to become a king, proving Piedmont bread is the best.

Fruits.

I.G.P. apples and strawberries, Piedmont, – certainly appear in Piedmont cuisine. Many of the fruits come from the province of Cuneo, in the south.

Other incredible fruits include peaches, pears, and kiwi.

Piedmontese Dessert (Dulce).

• Bunet – This is a chocolate custard with flavoring from cocoa, expresso, and rum. Already decadent, a layer of caramel kicks it over the top.
• Semifreddo – involves folding whipped cream into egg whites they beat with hot sugar syrup (Italian meringue). To this, for flavor, they may add liqueurs, chocolate, nougat, fruit, or nuts. They can press it in a pan and cut it in slices, or scoop it like ice cream.
• Torta di nocciole – is a dense hazelnut cake using local nuts. It can be a tad dry, making a dab of zabaione (Italian custard) or a beverage a good companion.

  

   

Piedmontese Cookies.

• Amaretti di Mombaruzzo – are Piedmont’s best version of the almond cookie.  They use sugar, egg whites, sweet almonds, and ground apricot kernels to make the crunchy cookies.
• Acsenti – are cookies from Sandigliano, with a dough containing cornmeal, flour, yeast, butter, and sugar. They form them into S-shaped or round cookies. Once a cookie only for holidays, you can find them next to the morning coffee or tea.
• Baci di Cherasco. – These kisses (baci) come from Cherasco near Cuneo in the southwest. Credit goes to an 1800s pastry chef for blending dark chocolate, toasted hazelnuts, and cacao butter into small crunchy cookies. The original recipe is still a secret.
• Baci di dama (the kiss of the lady.) Are two little (one bite) hazelnut cookies with a layer of chocolate holding them together. Today, there are numerous variations of the cookie, including almond and chocolate. The cookie’s origin legend includes the town of Tortona or the kitchens of the House of Savoy.

More Cookies.

• Bicciolani di Vercelli – are a gift from the House of Savoy. The dough includes flour, butter, sugar, eggs, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, white and black pepper. The original proportions are secret, so every baker has a slightly different recipe.
• Canestrelli – is a hard cookie with a pressed waffle-shape. The traditional dough of flour, butter, eggs, and lemon zest may now include rum, marsala, or vermouth.
• Canestrello Novese – are crunchy, ring-shaped cookies from Alessandria. The dough includes flour, yeast, sugar, olive oil, and Gavi white wine.
• Canestrelli Biellesi – are fun wafers from the town of Biella. Since the 1800s, they have been pressing two chocolate wafers together with a layer of chocolate-hazelnut cream. The cookie now has traditional agricultural product status, so the bakeries stamp their name and Canestrelli Biella on every cookie.
• Krumiri  – are a cookie for dunking, coming from Casale Monferrato, east of Turin. Around 1878. After making the dough with eggs, butter, flour, sugar, and vanilla, they let it rest overnight. You can dunk them in a sweet dessert wine, chocolate, or zabaione custard.
• Nocciolini di Chivasso – are small hazelnut cookies from the town of Chivasso, northeast of Turin. The round cookies are like meringue with hazelnuts.
• Paste di meliga – translates as “paste of corn.” Using a mixture of wheat and corn flour, they produce a cornmeal shortbread cookie. They are perfect with a sweet dessert wine or coffee.

Piedmontese Chocolate.

Another gift from the House of Savoy. 1585 a member of the House of Savoy, weds a member of the Spanish Crown. The House of Savoy will be the first place outside of Spain to receive chocolate. Before the Swiss or Belgium.

Circa 1678, Turin becomes the European chocolate capital with the opening of the first chocolate house. In the beginning, they were serving a hot beverage with water, cocoa powder, and sugar. It would not be until 1788 that a French inventor, M. Dorset invents a hydraulic process to grind cocoa. Not only does it grind cacao seeds, but it mixes in sugar to make a paste. This paste leads to the first piece of chocolate, again, in Turin.

By 1800, the Turin chocolate empire is booming. Other counties are placing orders faster than the Italians can fill them. Then the Frenchman with the Napoleon complex arrives.

The Napoleonic War cuts the cocoa supply lines. The Piedmontese chocolate makers, in a panic, look for substitutes.

A New Piedmontese Chocolate.

Gianduia (gianduja) is a sweet chocolate paste for spreading, consisting of 70% chocolate and approximately 30% local hazelnut paste.

They begin making small ingots (Gianduiotti) with this new chocolate mixture. Will it be successful?

With the end of the war, Cocoa supplies return to normal. Piedmont finds they now have two types of chocolate the world wants.

Both will spin off other types of chocolates.

In 1965, the Ferrero company will rebrand its Gianduia product as Nutella.

Piedmontese Coffee.

A quick lesson. Cappuccino is available until about noon, and you do not ever order one after this time. Caffè and expresso are the choices after this time. This rule is valid just about everywhere, not only in Piedmont cuisine.

Espresso, due to the high pressure, contains more dissolved solids. Therefore, the caffeine per unit volume is higher than most other coffees. That is why they come in smaller cups.

The first espresso machine receives a patent circa 1884. Guess where?

Bicerin.

Piedmont cuisine claims the first cocoa and expresso. But what about a beverage incorporating chocolate and coffee?

Around 1763, a coffee bar began offering chocolate and milk in their coffee. They would serve it in a small glass (bicerin). It quickly became their biggest seller.

Patrons begin calling the drink a bicerin, and soon the coffee bar as well.

Circa 1856, they move to a larger space. The Café Al Bicerin is still serving in that location.

Piedmont Cuisine Summary.

So, where do you start? Wine and chocolate? Beer and cheese? Sample a Piedmontese aperitif while sipping an aperitif?

See the vineyards of UNESCO World Heritage regions. Learn about the Slow Food Foundation and taste some of the products and recipes they are saving from extinction.

Just sit and have a hot chocolate and listen to life going on all around you.

Are you ready to immerse yourself in Piedmont cuisine?

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PIEDMONT WINE.

BIRRA ITALIANA.

ITALIAN SPIRITS.

TASTE ITALY.

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