Table of Contents:
The Three Northern Greece Wine Regions.
Kavala.
Drama.
Avdira.
Maroneia.
Evros.
Thassos.
Are Thrace Wines New?
Hardly! they are thousands of years old. However, the Thrace (Thraki) Wine scene is just starting to make the global wine scene.
In fact, Thrace (Thraki) is currently the smallest and least developed wine region in Greece.
Northern Greece is one of four distinct climatic zones in Greece. Most people do not realize that Greece has so many climates. Of course, travel posters almost always promote sunny beaches or architectural wonders with rocky backdrops.
Most of Northern Greece is a wet climate with cold, wet winters (rain and snow) and semi-mountainous terrain. For this reason, there is a slower growth of grapes, which, in turn, leads to more complex tastes.
As a result, Thrace Wine today is in a competition (and comparison) to French, Italian, and California wines.
The Three Northern Greece Wine Regions.
- Thrace. – To the east of Thessaloniki. The Thrace region covers parts of Bulgaria (Northern Thrace), Turkey (Eastern Thrace), and Greece (Western Thrace).
- Macedonia. – In the center with Thessaloniki as its base. Greece and the Republic of Macedonia now share the region.
- Epirus. – To the west.
Surprisingly, there are over 300 indigenous grape varieties in Greece. Although many of the wineries are growing several of these, the significant types today are the following:
White
- Malagousia. ( mah-lah-gou-ZYA.)– This Greek grape was almost extinct until lake view in the north brought it back. As a result, it is the most planted white wine grape in this region.
- Chardonnay. This grape is a newcomer to Greece, only appearing in the 1960s. The climate brings out many interesting characteristics.
- Muscat of Alexandria – is probably from Egypt. Although in use on the Greek islands during the time of Cleopatra, it would not reach Thrace until the 1900s. They use it in sweet wines.
- Roditis. (roh-VEE-tees.) is an acidic Greek grape that fell from favor during the phylloxera epidemic. Prone to mildew, they use it for a blending wine.
Red
- Xinomavro. (K-see-NOH-mah-vroh.) – This grape is the most popular red grape in Thessaloniki Wine. It has high-tannin and medium-plus acidity. As a result, many compare it to the reds of Italy’s Piedmont region.
- Karnachalades – This rare grape is exclusive to the area of Evros and southern Bulgaria. They predominantly use it for blending with Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. However, you may also find it on its own.
- Mavrud (Mavroudi in Greece) – This native Bulgarian grape variety produces intense tannins and acidity. It adds a flavor of stewed fruit.
- Pamidi – is another old grape from Bulgaria. It produces a light red table wine. They are also popular to eat.
Thrace Wine History.
Thrace wines feel a little more of the Aegean Mediterranean climate. The hills to the north protect the vines from cold winds. The hot summer sunshine and the breeze slow the ripening of the grapes, which keeps some acidity.
Ancient wine presses suggest they have been making wine in Thrace for thousands of years. Pottery and paintings from the area support this.
The philosopher Pliny the Elder writes that the ancient vineyards of Thrace were growing more than 90 grape varieties.
Thrace wine takes several blows. First, the Ottoman occupation does not condone alcohol. During the two world wars, Thrace is part of the front lines. Throw in a phylloxera epidemic, and it’s amazing there is anything left. It is not until circa 1990 that the Thrace viticulture begins its Renaissance.
Thrace P.D.O. and P.D.I Wines.
Currently, Thrace does not have any Protected Designation of Origin (P.D.O.) wines.
Thrace Protected Geographical Indications (P.G.I) wines are a little trickier.
P.G.I. Thrace covers the whole region. This indicates there is something unique about the wines of this region. The rules under this status are broad. The geographical regions within Thrace are Drama, Evros, Kavala, Rhodopi, Thasos, and Xanthi. The wine regions are similar but not always identical.
Within regional Thrace is P.G.I. Drama, P.G.I. Evros, P.G.I. Kavala, and P.G.I. Thasos which are P.G.I. District Wines. They carry more restrictions than regional wines.
And to add a little more confusion, there are P.G.I. Area Wines. They carry many of the requirements of the district wines but much more strict geographical boundaries. An area wine is in a regional wine region which is in P.G.I. Thrace. Confused yet?
Using Kavala as a base, let’s look at the small but mighty Thrace wines.
You can pick up the Wine Route of Dionysus, which actually begins in Eastern Macedonia, in Drama. Not all Thrace wineries are members of this group, but it is a good beginning map for planning.
P.G.I. Kavala.
The fertile soil and its location near the sea help produce excellent white wines.
P.G.I. area wines from Drama include P.G.I. Kavala, and P.G.I. Pangeon.
Some of the wineries you can find in Kavala include:
- Ktima Biblia Chora Winery. – Less than an hour’s drive west of Kavala is this award-winning winery. They produce whites, red, and rose wines. Visits and tastings are by reservation.
Mackedon Winery Nico Lazaridi. – In the fertile Pieria valley west of Kavala at the foot of Mount Pangeon, they produce the best wines for that location. They have another location in Drama where they produce different wines. It is eye-opening to taste wines from different areas to see the impact soil has on wine.
- Tsikrikonis Winery. – The private winery sits in the foothills of Mount Symbolos overlooking the Aegean. The family specializes in white and rose wines. Currently, wines are only for sale via stores or at restaurants.
P.G.I. Drama.
Drama sits 50 minutes northwest of Kavala. The area has low hills with clay soil and a continental climate. It is home to (Protected Geographical Indication) P.G.I zone Drama.
In addition to its scenic town and proximity to Philippi’s Archeological site, it has great wine.
P.G.I. area wines from Drama include P.G.I. Pageo, P.G.I. Agora, and P.G.I. Ariadne.
Some of the wineries you can find in Drama include:
- Domaine Costa Lazaridis. – Reds, whites and rose. Surprisingly, this domain produces wines under four different labels. The Chateau Julia for single-varietal wines and Amethystos for high-quality cuvees being the two most popular.
- Estate Manolesakis. – is a family-run enterprise just east of Drama in Adriani. They cultivate Greek indigenous as well as varieties of French grapes. Tours and tastings are available.
- Ktima Pavlidis Estate. – Whites, rose & red. They offer both a Thema and an Emphasis label in white and red. I think I like the Thema better, but you should try both just in case I am wrong.
- Oenogenesis winery. – Just outside Adriani, the vineyard produces red, white, and rose wine. Tours and tastings by reservation.
Château Nico Lazaridi Winery. – The big sister to their winery in Pangeon, they specialize in reds and whites. They also have a rose and sparkling wine.
- Wine Art Estate. – White & red. I would not say “no” to either the Assyrtiko or the Malagousia.
Avdira. (Abdira.)
50 minutes east of Kavala, just south of Xanthi, is one of Thrace’s most viticulturally productive areas. Here is the P.G.I. zone of Avdira. Their winemaking stretches back towards ancient times and may have ties to the nearby archeological site at Abdera.
Check out Xanthi while you are in the area.
- Anatolikos Vineyards Winery. – White, red and rose wines. The vineyard is private and close to the sea. For now, you need to look for their award-winning wines in stores or local restaurants.
- Sgouridis Wines. – This organic winery also has private vineyards overlooking the sea. In addition to their E-store, you can find them locally.
- Vourvoukelis Estate. – The Vourvoukelis family has been a major champion of turning tobacco fields back into the vineyards. Their red, white, and rose wines all have numerous gold and silver awards. Tours are available on the hour every day but Sunday. Tours do not include tastings.
Maroneia.
Less than an hour east of Xanthi is the town of Komotini. The triangle between Komotini, Rodopi, to the east, and Maronia in the south is where you will find most of the vineyards. Within this zone, you will find the P.G.I. Ismaros zone.
The Komotini area has many remains, including castle walls and Byzantine and Ottoman structures.
Homer, along with the wines from Avdira, mentions the local wines from Maroneia. In “The Odyssey,” Odysseus uses the local ‘honey-sweet’ wine to intoxicate the Cyclops and blind him. (Or was it a blinding headache from too much wine?)
- Domaine Kikones Winery. – Producing reds, roses, and white wines, the vineyard does offer short tours and a chance to taste their wines. Reservations are mandatory
- Tsantali Vineyards – is another family-run operation trying to bring back the wines of the area. In addition to red, rose, and white wine, they also produce ouzo and tsipouro.
Evros.
Approximately two hours east of Maroneia is the last P.G.I. zone in Thrace. With Bulgaria to the north and Turkey to its east, here you will feel a mixture of cultures. The area is predominantly agricultural, and the population small. What they lack in number, they more than make up in hospitality. The P.G.I. Evros zone runs mainly from Soufli in the central area to Trigono to the north.
Alexandroupolis is just under an hour south of Soufli and makes a good base.
The area specializes in native, red varieties from Karnachalades, Mavroudi, and Pamidi grapes. They also grow the Bogialamades, an Indigenous grape, to the area.
Made up of low hills with clay soil and the continental climate.
Evritika Kellaria. – Less than 10 minutes drive east of the border with Turkey. Their wines have influences from the area’s history. In addition to the unique white, rose, and red wines, they produce Ouzo and Tsipouro. Reservations are recommended. As a bird flies, the point where Greece, Turkey, and Bulgaria meet is 10 miles northwest from here.
Goutsidis Wines. – This small organic winery works on honoring the local grapes and wine-making history going back more than 400 years. Tastings and visits are available by reservation only.
Thasos. (Thassos.)
The island of Thasos sits just off the coast of Thrace. On a clear day, you can see it from Kavala. Outside of maritime industries, wine was an important moneymaker for the island, especially in the Hellenistic and Classical times. The P.G.I. Thassos status applies to the entire island. Check out the P.D.O. Thassos olives while you are there.
Due to the low amounts of rain, keeping vines alive on the island in modern times is difficult. Most vineyards are small, producing more wine for local consumption than for export.
There are several liquor stores in Thasos town where you can buy local wines. Names to look for include Giannakis
Wines of Thrace Summary.
This list is not the “ultimate, definitive” list of wines from Thrace. However, it should give you an excellent overview and direct you towards the vineyards you will like the best.
Above all, it should serve as a perfect introduction to these delicious wines.
If you miss the Napa or Sonoma valley of the 1980s, you will love the Thrace wine country. Picture this, small wineries on back roads, far from the maddening crowds. Some do not have signs.
Remember, this article does NOT include all the Thrace wines, and this is NOT the “only” list to use.
In other words, use it as a starting point.
Understand that with every new harvest, there are new wines to try. The best Thrace wine is yet to come.
In contrast, this is NOT the Napa Valley; winery visits are not as popular.
Therefore, many wineries are not open for guests to stop by without a reservation. Some are open on weekdays; others are not.
Please check their website before travel begins.
Also, many require reservations in advance.
Experience Thrace wines.