Table of Contents:
Beers of Spain. Andalusia Cuisine Spanish Spirits.
Wine production probably came to Andalusia with the Greeks (Phoenicians) 2,500+ years ago.
By the time of the Romans, winemaking in Andalusia was at full stride.
Many think that the Moorish invasion brought a halt to alcohol as the Koran frowns on its consumption.
Some interesting facts about Muslim Berbers and Arabs:
- The English and Spanish word for alcohol is Arabic in origin.
- They bring the technology of distilling to Spain.
- Muslims did not drink alcohol. They were drinking medicine (in large quantities).
Many water supplies at this time were not safe for drinking as they were the village sewer. The boiling (purifying) that takes place while distilling wine and beer makes them safe, therefore common daily beverages.
The Middle Ages.
By the time Isabella and Ferdinand take the throne, Andalusia is shipping their wines all over Europe.
The Sherris sack from Jerez was an inexpensive sweet sherry famous in England. They eventually shorten the name to Sack.
As other countries begin setting up colonies in the new world, Spain’s export of many products begins to drop. But not the wine.
It survives through wars, overthrows, and even Napoleon’s visit circa 1800.
The Andalusian wine industry seems invincible until a small bleep appears on the wine radar circa 1863. An amphid, brought back to England from America, makes its way to France. The actual species of pest and the plant it was traveling on are up to speculation. Europeans have been bringing vines back from America before with no problems.
One popular theory is this was the time of steamships. The faster ships, reducing the duration of the crossing, were allowing the pests to survive the passage. Whatever the reason, they made it and began infesting most of Europe’s vineyards.
Circa 1888, they reach the vineyards of Jerez and Malaga. Timing is everything. The Phylloxera has been raging in France and Italy for 20 years. By the time it comes to Andalusia, they know the cause and a solution, although today, there still is no cure.
By grafting wines with the bug-tolerant American rootstock, the new plants resist it. Much of the original vines will rot, but Spain can start replanting before they all die. Still, some areas do not survive.
The 1900s.
The next century, for a country crawling out of the Phylloxera crisis, is not easy on Spain.
Although it manages to stay neutral during World War I, the war puts a severe crimp into their wine sales.
Circa 1923, General Miguel Primo de Rivera overthrows the government and creates a dictatorship. One good thing to come out of it is the beginning of a Denominación de Origen (D.O.) appellation system.
The Second Republic pushes him from power but then falls circa 1936 in the Spanish Civil War.
General Francisco Franco grabs control with his Nationalist troops.
An estimated 350,000 people die in the war, including the young workers from the vineyards. Fighting destroys many vineyards.
During his brutal dictatorship, Franco cuts off Spain from much of Europe. With the onset of World War II, all ties with Europe cease.
The United States, currently not in the war, is one of the few countries importing supplies to Spain.
Post World War.
In a nod to Socialism, Franco creates wine co-operatives in the 1950s. He restricts them on where they can grow, what they can grow, even on irrigation. He orders all the wine, good and bad, to go into one communal vintage. The bulk wines are not tasty, but they are cheap.
In the 1960s, the outside world rediscovers Sherry, and the Rioja and Jerez quality wines begin to create a demand. However, restrictions on exporting do not lead to rapid growth.
When Spain transitions to democracy, upon Franco’s death in 1975, the strangulation of the wine industry ends. The government not only takes away the growing and exporting restrictions, but supports the growth of the sector.
Almost immediately, Spain’s middle class rushes to get a wine that is not the cheap bulk wine.
By the end of the 1970s, Spain is finally producing quality wine again.
By 2000, Spain is making seriously good wine, and the bulk wines, while not disappearing, share a smaller part of the market.
The Grapes.
Andalusia’s large size means it covers several geographical variations. From the mountains of Sierra Morena and the Cordilleras Penibéticas, to not one, but two coasts, the Mediterranian and Atlantic. In between are the low valleys along the Guadalquivir river. All of these with various terrains.
Climate is significant in wine production, and Andalusia has three major zones, plus micro-climates.
The Atlantic Ocean cools the Sherry-producing areas around Jerez and Sanlucar de Barrameda.
In the southwest, the coast’s lower average temperature is ideal for maintaining the acidity in the Palomino grapes. This climate is vital to the Manzanilla and Fino styles of Sherry.
The warm Mediterranean creates a hot drier climate for the Malaga, Sierras de Malaga, and Montilla-Moriles areas.
White Grapes.
Moscatel (muscat)- is a sweet grape, which today is mostly for Sherry. In addition to high sugar levels, they dry the grapes in the sun to increase the sugar level.
Zalema – is the principal grape of the Huelva region. It produces a full-body white.
Palomino Fino – is a popular grape for the production of Sherry.
Garrido Fino (Charrido Fino) – is a white wine grape, predominantly from the Huelva region, making a light, refreshing wine.
Pedro Ximénez – is another sweet grape from the Jerez region they use for dessert wines.
Montilla – is popular in the province of Córdoba and produces a sweet dessert wine –
Airen – grows in the northern areas of Andalucia. They use it predominantly for brandy, but they do blend it in wines.
Red Grapes.
Although red grapes and wines are not the kings in Andalusia, there are excellent red wines. The majority of the red grapes are transplants, dating from after the Phylloxera.
Tempranillo – Spain’s noble grape, dates from the Phoenicians. More popular in the Rojas region of northern Spain, Andalusian wineries blend it to make full-bodied red wines.
Syrah – is a dark-skinned grape from southern France. As it ages, it takes on complex flavors.
Cabernet Sauvignon – is a popular red wine grape they use for blending, predominantly in the Cordoba region.
Merlot – with its softer tannins and lower acid, is a blending grape, often with Syrah.
Other grapes are growing in Andalusia, but you find a majority of the wines will have at least one of these grapes in its heredity.
The Andalusia Wines.
There are just under 100,000 acres of vineyards in Andalucia.
Andalusia currently has seven wines with Denominaciones de Origen Protegidas (D.O.P.) status. Among these are five of the first D.O.P. wines in Spain:
Jerez-Xérès-Sherry D.O.P.
I could fill up a few pages on this single Andalusia wine. It is one of the most famous wines in the world.
Yet, so few Americans seem to know much about Sherry except its dry. Or is it sweet and only a dessert wine?
This web site is to immerse you in a destination, not make you a rocket scientist on wine. So, let’s take Sherry for $100.
Sherry 101.
What is Sherry? It is a fortified wine.
And what does that mean? A fortified wine means a wine with extra strength, often from the addition of brandy from grapes.
In the case of Sherry, after the initial wine completes fermentation, they fortify it with local brandy.
Sherry must come from the “Sherry Triangle” in the province of Cádiz. It runs between Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María, and Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
After distilling the wines from Palomino grapes, they age in boots (pots) made with American oak. The containers can range in size from 60 to 150 gallons. After three years, they can use the boots for aging sherry brandy.
Styles.
Sherry comes in eight different styles, and the cream has multiple levels of sweetness.
- Fino – is a bone dry, light Sherry due to yeast keeping oxygen out during the aging. It goes well with simple finger foods such as olives or nuts.
- Manzanillo – is also dry. Coming from the seaside area around Sanlucar de Barrameda, it also has a slight (sea) salty taste. Great with seafood.
- Amontillado – begins as a Fino, but during the aging process, they remove the yeast allowing it to oxidize. It is dry but not bone dry and good with poultry.
- Oloroso – has no yeast and oxidizes into a golden yellow with notes of spices and dried fruit. It can hold its own with red meat and older cheeses.
- Palo Cortado – is a unique sherry. Legend says it begins as a Fino, but acts like an Oloroso. Its unique taste goes with game and strong cheeses.
- Pedro Ximenez (P.X.) – is a sweet sherry from Pero Ximenez grapes. It is famous for the dessert or cheese course.
- Moscatel – is similar to the P.X. in the preparation of the wine but uses a majority of Moscatel grapes. A real dessert wine.
- Cream – is Fino, Amontillado, or Oloroso sherry with a blend of sweet wine. The pale and medium are great for desserts. The cream sherry goes with cheese.
A Fino is a light straw color. As sherry ages (oxidizes), it turns brown. Usually, it is not the oak, but the oxygen that does that.
Other D.O.P. Wines.
Condado de Huelva D.O.P.
Sitting in the western edge of Andalusia, the wines from this region produce both dry and sweet white wines.
Manzanilla Sanlucar de Barrameda D.O.P.
Sanlucar’s seaside location is critical in the production of Manzanilla style Sherry. The moist air from the sea encourages flor growth and adds a slightly saline note to the wine. The mild winters also affect aging.
Málaga D.O.P.
Traditionally, the Malaga wines are sweet dessert wines from the area around La Axarquia. Today, the region is growing and producing red and white table wines. Many of these are in the higher Sierras de Malaga area, around Ronda and Serrania de Ronda. Locally, they refer to these as the Ronda Wines.
Montilla – Moriles D.O.P.
This region, south of Cordoba, is traditionally famous for its sweet dessert and fortified wines from the Moscatel grape. Like other regions, it is growing and developing new wines.
Newcomers.
Sierras de Málaga D.O.P.
Some people confuse this for the older Malaga D.O.P. This 2001 addition is in the same area, but at a higher elevation, producing white, rosé, and red wines.
Granada D.O.P.
Another area with Roman (and probably Phoenecian) wine roots, it receives status by 2018. With an elevation over 3000 feet, much of the region is cooler. This climate is perfect for growing grapes for red, sparkling, and white wines.
Huelva County Orange Wine D.O.P. – receives its status in 2011, becoming Spain’s first aromatized wine with D.O.P. status.
Other Good Wines.
Lebrija V.C. (vino de Calidad con indicación geográfica) – is one step below D.O.P. and is close. This is the only one in Andalusia and it is near Seville.
I.G.P. – (indicación geográfica protegida) is the next level of wines on their way, hopefully, to D.O.P. status. Andalusia currently has sixteen I.G.P. wines, many in areas adjacent to D.O.P. wines.
There are four more categories below these before you get to table wine. The wines above should be a great introduction to Andalusia Wine.
Andalucia Wineries.
Jerez.
The town is the mother-ship of Sherry. Not only are there numerous flavors of Sherry to sample here, but the Bodegas also add to the experience.
- González Byass (Tío Pepe) – is an excellent stop for the person new to Sherry. Although it is a family winery (since the 1700s), the bodega is user-friendly for the beginner. It has lots of information in an unpretentious presentation.
- Díez Mérito – Another winery from the 1700s, it is not set up for mass tourism, which is O.K. by me. Tours are available by booking in advance on their website. (orange link.)
- Bodegas Tradición – can trace its wines back more than 300 years. You must pre-book the tour, which may seem expensive. This tour is not a big bus tour. It is hands-on, and you will sample some premium wines.
- Lustau – is another winery the guest with some sherry knowledge may appreciate more. There is a standard tasting available. But, the full tasting includes wines from all three of the sherry triangle towns and more.
- Fundador – has been producing wine since 1730, making it the oldest in Jerez still operating. Parts of the bodega date back to the 1300s. Here, they also offer experiences beyond the Sherry and brandy tasting.
- Bodega Luis Perez – is one of the new kids on the block. Beginning in 2002, this family-run winery is producing some premium wines. Tours are by appointment.
- Bodega Ximenez Spinola – for nearly 300 years, the same family has been producing wine using the Pedro Ximénez grape exclusively. They also make brandy in addition to Sherry.
Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
- Bodega Hidalgo La Gitana – dates from 1792 and is now run by the eighth generation. They are specializing in Manzanilla.
El Puerto de Santa María.
- Bodegas Gutiérrez Colosía – is one of the last family-run bodegas in the area. It is the final one on the Guadalete river.
- Bodega de Mora Osborne – is the large bull in the middle of the room, in several ways. Osborne, who has been around for more than 250 years, is one of the largest wineries in Andalusia. Their large bull (Toro de Osborne) billboards dot the landscape. They have the most extensive collection of V.O.R.S. (Vinum Optimum Rare Signatum) wines in the sherry region. These are wines that are a minimum of 20 years old.
Huelva.
- Bodega Iglesias – is in the remains of an 18th-century convent that made their wine for mass. Since 1935, the same family has been making excellent wines. For English tours, book in advance.
- Bodegas Sauci – is currently under the leadership of the family’s third generation. In addition to the local wines, they also produce a favorite version of the orange (Naranja) wine.
- Bodegas Diezmo Nuevo – dates from 1770, and many consider it the creator of orange wine. The sizeable (corporate) current owner, has so far, been respecting the winery’s history.
- Bodegas Andrade – dates from 1885. They produce white, red, and Generoso (dry fortified) wines. Also, try their Andrade vinegar, which has a unique taste.
- Bodegas Juncales – is also under the watch of their third generation. I recommend reservations and an English-speaking guide if they are not offering tours in English.
- Bodega Vinícola del Condado – is the largest winery in the area. Stemming from one of the 1955 co-operatives, today, it is a reinvention for the next century. Check out the Huelva County Wine Center next door.
- Bodegas Oliveros – starting in 1940, has seen many changes in Spain’s wine industry. They produce several wines, including sparkling (cava) and Vino Naranja.
Rhonda.
- Bodega Garcia Hidalgo – is one of the newer wineries. They currently offer a few artesian wines, a modern twist with old grapes.
- Bodegas Joaquín Fernández – is a family-run organic winery, and for one man, a dream come true. They currently produce six different wines throughout the year.
Montilla-Moriles.
- Bodega Alvear – dating from 1729, makes excellent wines. One of the few to make it this region. Pre-book your visit.
- Bodega Pérez Barquero – dates from 1905 and continues to make the same wines today.
- Bodega Toro Albalá – Dating from 1922, they also make several traditional wines. One of their best-known is the 100% Vintage Dessert P.X., a Gran Reserva wine. They age it a minimum of 25 years in the barrel.
- Bodega Cruz Conde – dates from 1902 and holds numerous gold medals. You will not find it outside of Andalusia, so make sure to visit. Book tours in advance. They also do pairings and masterclasses.
- Bodega Robles – is under the control of the third generation of the family. Using organic methods, they are producing traditional wines from the region. The number of awards indicates they are doing something right.
Malaga.
- Bodegas Victoria Ordonez – began with planting native Pedro Ximenez grapes in the almost extinct vineyards of the Mountains of Malaga. The first harvest was in 2015, and they already have awards. Contact to arrange a visit.
- Bodega Antigua Casa de Guardia – dating from 1840, is the oldest tavern and winery in Malaga. After Isabel II, Queen of Spain, visits circa 1862, they become suppliers to the palace. They still hold this appointment.
- Bodegas Bentomiz – is a boutique winery in the hills above Malaga. They grow Moscatel and the rare Rome grapes, with some vines over 80 years old. They make red, white, and rose wines. There is a restaurant perfect for pairing as well.
Cadiz.
Bodega Garvey – dating from 1780, was originally going to be a sheep farm or that was the plan of William Garvey. Today, you can tour and taste wines and brandies.
Seville.
There are no Bodegas in or near Seville. But, there are plenty of wine bars that will offer many of the wines above. Seville is also a good base as it’s between a majority of the wine regions.
Andalusia Wine Summary.
Are these all the wineries in Andalucia? Hardly there are more than 200 vineyards at last count.
Are these the only ones to see? Again, the answer is no. These are great wineries (if you find a wine you like.)
But there are plenty more that you may like even more.
This page is only to get you thinking about Andalucia wines and realizing it is a lot more than just sangria.
What region do you want to visit first?