Table of Contents:
TAX COLLECTORS.
THE AMERICANS
PROHIBIT WHAT?
SIXTY YEARS WITHOUT A DROP
DISTILLERIES
LIQUOR COMPANIES
COCKTAILS
Wines of Louisiana, Taste Louisiana, Louisiana Beers.
Firewater.
Before the French, Native Americans were living in the areas on both sides of the Mississippi River. Although they did not run breweries and distilleries, they did have spirits. These were for ceremonies only and often only for the elder and medicine man.
With the French came bottles of firewater. The Spanish bring firewater. With the British came…
The history of spirits in Louisiana dates to the 1700s, and initially, it is an import. Coming from the Caribbean are barrels of rum, pouring onto the docks along the river.
The French first had sights on the Louisiana territory as a place to grow tobacco. They wanted to stop buying it from the British. Unfortunately, the moist soil and hot temperatures were all wrong for tobacco. The northern area of what is now Louisiana was suitable for cotton.
It does not take the Louisiana plantation owners very long to realize they could grow sugar cane. Especially those in the delta region with its moist, fertile soil.
Soon they are producing rich blackstrap molasses and rum by the barrel full.
The Trouble with Brits.
Around the mid-1700s, Britain starts increasing taxes on its rum and molasses exports from the Caribbean. This tax hits the east coast of America extra hard as there are over 1000 distilleries in operation. Many of them rely on supplies from the Caribbean.
Although Louisiana can fill part of the gap, many colonies begin distilling other spirits. They use ingredients they do not have to import.
Louisiana exports their rum and begins importing rye whiskey from Pennsylvania and Maryland.
By 1754, hostilities lead to war between the British and French. Most of the Indian tribes side with the French. Spain took control of Louisiana in 1763 after the signing of the Treaty of Paris. New Orleans became a Spanish outpost and essential trading partner to Cuba, Haiti, and Mexico.
1776, and the British colonies declare their independence from Britain. France and Spain are quick to support the settlements. There are many battles with the British along the Mississippi down to the Gulf of Mexico.
In the 1790s, they begin importing corn whiskey from the new states to the north, Kentucky, and Tennessee.
Sell New France
In 1800, the Spanish, reeling in debt, cede Louisiana back to France. France is soon at war with Britain again. Napoleon sells the Louisiana territory (New France) to the United States to keep it from falling to the British.
The gulf’s British fleet is superior and manages to cut off many imports to Louisiana, mainly from France. This embargo includes French brandy.
Why the short history lesson? Because throughout this period, even when war was at their doorstep, Louisiana was having a party. They were a supply center for whoever was fighting the British. And they were producing rum. They work hard, but they make sure to play hard.
Under the Americans.
In the 1800s, sugar refinement was a slow, expensive process. After pressing the sugarcane juice from the cane, they would place it into a large kettle. They would heat it evaporating most of the water. Then by hand, the workers, mostly slaves, would pour the hot thick liquid into smaller and smaller pots. This process would cause the liquid to cool and thicken.
Unfortunately, there was no way to control the heating, and much of the sugar would burn. Or while pouring from pot to pot, they were spilling trying to manage the large, heavy containers. There were many injuries from the hot liquid.
Norbert Rillieux, a New Orleans Creole inventor, receives a patent for a new machine circa 1843. The invention addresses the burning, the spilling, and the temperatures in an enclosed system.
Some of the larger sugar companies can afford them.
At this time, there are 1200 sugar mills in the state.
Then in 1861, the American civil war breaks out. During its four year duration, it will knock out the rum industry with a one-two punch. The first hit, the Confederates, destroy most of the mills. The more significant blow is that the workforce is now free.
A few rum distillers will hold on. Some will begin distilling other liquors, such as whiskey, that do not require a massive workforce. They will all disappear in 1920 when Prohibition hits.
Prohibition
Traders, sailors, soldiers, pirates, Louisiana’s history is full of colorful characters. Especially along the Mississippi River, America’s highway in the 1700-1800s. Every port town had its share of saloons, clubs, and dance halls. None more so than New Orleans. Its rich history of excess continues through wars, recessions, battles, and rebuilding.
Something like Prohibition is not going to slow it down. The bayous are full of moonshiners, especially in Terrebonne and Lafourche parishes. Some moonshine gets such a reputation; they begin shipping it to other states. Rum-running in St. Bernard Parish becomes a major employer for many.
Great Britain and Canada are smuggling whiskey and champagne along the coast. Chalmette, at that time, a separate town downriver from New Orleans, became a distribution center. The authorities are watching the docks upriver.
In the cities, there are “soda shops” speakeasies, and private clubs in office buildings.
The responsibility of upholding prohibition fell to federal dry agents of the U.S. Customs department. The force was never large enough to enforce the law adequately in New Orleans.
New Orleans became one of the top alcohol distribution centers in the nation. Some customs agents call it the “liquor capital of America.” A raid in 1925 uncovers 10,000 cases of liquor. It did not affect the sales or prices of alcohol.
1933 – 1994
Prohibition in Louisiana ends with about as much change as it began, little. The only thing missing is Louisiana spirits.
New bars open, joining the ones still open. Café Lafitte in Exile, the oldest gay bar in the United States still operating, opens on Bourbon Street. The street’s name comes from France’s ruling family and not the golden liquor from the corn belt.
What we know of Louisiana, specifically New Orleans in the 1940s, is part fact, part fiction. Stories by Tennessee Williams, Truman Capote, William Faulkner, and others paint a place, not like home.
The 1950s and 60s are a time of racial tensions throughout the south, including Louisiana.
The 1970s and Louisiana, especially New Orleans, is on the national radar. 1970 and the first jazz festival takes place. Louis Armstrong, Al Hirt, and Pete Fountain bring Jazz into people’s homes via television and radios. The party goes on day and night, but still no Louisiana spirits to drink.
Party Like It’s 1999.
Finally, in 1995 an artist, probably better known for his New Orleans canvases and Jazz Fest posters, opens a distillery. And not just any kind of distillery, but a rum distillery. It is the first rum distillery in the United States since prohibition.
James Michalopoulos, of Greek descent and born in Pittsburgh, finally brings Louisiana spirits back to Louisiana. It takes more than a dream. It also requires wrangling with dreadfully outdated Louisiana legislation.
1999, and their Old New Orleans rum is ready for tasting. Local spirits are once again flowing. What a great way to end the century in Louisiana. What will the next century bring?
The Drip Heard Around the State
The distilling of rum awakens a call in other wannabe distillers. Today, Louisiana has close to 20 distilleries around the state.
Celebration Distillation (New Orleans 1995) – The first and now oldest. Crystal White, Amber Dark, Cajun Spice, and other Rums.
Cajun Spirits Distillery (New Orleans 2010) – specializes in Vodka, Rum, and Gin.
Atelier Vie (New Orleans 2011) – produces vodka, gin, whiskey, and absinthe, in green or red.
Rank Wildcat Spirits (Lafayette 2012) – specializes in small-batch craft rums.
Bayou Rum (Lacassine 2013) – specializes in rum using molasses from the oldest family-owned and operated sugar mill in the United States.
Louisiana Lightning (Amite City 2014) – making clear sour mash whiskey. They also have a strawberry one.
River Road Distillery (Paulina 2014) – make the Kicking Mule rum.
NOLA Distillery (New Orleans 2015) – uses as many Louisiana ingredients as possible. They produce vodka, bourbon, rum, gin, whiskey, and tequila.
Baton Rouge Distilling (Baton Rouge 2016) – Strawberry Brandy, bourbon, and rye whiskey.
Roulaison Distilling Company (New Orleans 2016) – is a rum distillery using Louisiana sugar and traditional practices.
Seven Three Distilling Co. (New Orleans 2016) – offers Bourbon, Gin, Moonshine, Irish whiskey, Vodka, and Rum.
Lula (New Orleans 2017) – Is the first restaurant distillery in Louisiana after more dumb old legislative removal. They offer Vodka, gin, and rum. Try them with homemade mixers like tonic water. Stay for the food.
Three Roll Estate (Baton Rouge 2017) – is a single estate distillery, sourcing all of its ingredients from the Alma Plantation. They specialize in rums and also have vodka.
Porchjam Distillery (New Orleans 2017) – specializes in the craft vodka.
Happy Raptor Distilling (New Orleans 2019) – is specializing in rum using southern Caribbean methods.
Honorable Mention
Lucky Player Vodka (Cognac France 2012) – Why mention a distillery you cannot visit without a passport and international plane ticket? Because one of their signature vodkas is King Cake. A very sippable vodka that they distill five times tastes and has the aroma of King Cake. Now you can have Mardi Gras in a glass.
Roman Candy Company is a one-man, one mule, food-cart that dates to 1915. They sell one thing, hand-pulled taffy in chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry. If you grew up in New Orleans, you probably remember the sound of the cart’s bell. The Roman Chewing Candy cart is still roaming the streets of New Orleans. There is also a stationary one at the Audubon Zoo, and you can mail order candy. WHAT does this have to do with Louisiana spirits?
Roman Candy Rum – is a nod to the New Orleans tradition. They sell three flavors of rum, chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry. If you like flavored rums, give them a try. I have only seen it in liquor stores in the New Orleans area.
Liquor Companies
Southern Comfort – began in New Orleans in 1874 as the creation of a bartender, M. W. Heron. His name for the combination was Cuffs and Buttons.
He did not distill alcohol. He was enhancing it. Bourbon whiskey in those days was harsh and did not taste good. He would “age” it in a mixture of vanilla bean, lemon, cinnamon, clove, cherry, and orange. Right before serving, he would add a dash of honey. The result was a sippable beverage.
Heron would go on to start the Southern Comfort Company. It is very successful up until his death, three months after prohibition begins. The company was now in St Louis, where they took the ban a little more seriously.
In the late 1920s, Francis E. Fowler Jr., a St Louis businessman, came across a bottle of SoCo in a cellar. He began playing with flavors. By the time prohibition ends (1933), he has a “new and improved” Southern Comfort.
It would have a good run before sky-rocketing towards the end of the 1960s. What was the catalyst? Janice Joplin was never on stage without a bottle of SoCo in her hand.
Like many companies, when sales drop, they start looking for ways to cut corners. SoCo did in the worst place possible, ingredients. They start using other supplements in place of the whiskey. Then they sell the brand. The new owner starts adding flavors. Can anyone save SoCo?
The Hero
The Sazerac Company purchases the brand. They are another company with New Orlean roots. Changes begin immediately; two are significant. They go back to the original recipe with whiskey because there was nothing wrong with it. (Why fix something that ain’t broke?) And they get rid of all the “flavor” varieties. SoCo is enjoying a revival as a foundation of classic cocktails.
Sazerac
No mention of New Orleans or Louisiana spirits would be complete without mentioning Sazarac. Do I mean the drink, the bar, or the company? Yes.
America’s First Cocktail
Before there was a company, there was a drink, or maybe medicine. Antoine Peychaud ran a pharmacy in the French Quarter on Royal Street.
Around 1838 his friends were coming down with symptoms late every evening. He would mix brandy, absinthe, and a dash of his family’s secret bitters into a tasty prescription.
His guests would have an immediate recovery, until the next night. There is no record of what the original name was.
Legend (fun stuff no one can prove) says he would use his wife’s coquetier (ko-k-tay) for his shot glass. A coquetier is an egg cup. From this word, we get cocktail. This explanation sounds logical after a few Sazeracs.
The Bar
The mixture was soon showing up at the city’s best coffee houses, (drinking establishments.) Sewell Taylor, the owner of a coffee house on Exchange Alley, saw the potential. He sets out to make the drink his own.
He begins using only Sazerac de Forge et Fils brandy. Why? He imports it and is the only one selling it in New Orleans. He markets the Sazerac cocktail, only available at the Sazarac Coffeehouse. Records indicate this is the first branded cocktail in the world.
The Company
In 1869, Thomas H. Handy began an empire. First, with the purchase of the Sazerac Coffeehouse. Next, he buys the rights to Peychaud’s Bitters and, by 1890, begins bottling and marketing the Sazerac cocktail. Unable to purchase Sazerac de Forge et Fils brandy, he makes the new cocktail with rye whiskey. The name of the whiskey? Sazerac. The owner? Guess.
Up until 1920, the company grows. With Prohibition, the Sazerac Coffeehouse becomes a delicatessen and grocery vendor. I am sure no alcohol was present during this time. (Wink, wink.)
The company grows happily ever after, acquiring other liquor companies along the way. Many in Kentucky where they make Sazerac whiskey.
Today, the Sazerac Company has many locations around the world. The main office is now in Louisville, Kentucky, closer to a majority of the brands. However, the family-owned American company still keeps its ties to New Orleans. Cheers to tradition.
Cocktails and Louisiana Spirits
Sazerac Cocktail – is no longer available at the original Sazarac Coffeehouse. The 1893 Grunewald Hotel became the Roosevelt in 1923. Since the end of prohibition (WINK), the Sazerac Bar at the Roosevelt has been the place to enjoy the Sazerac experience.
Brandy Milk Punch – is a cocktail of brandy, milk, sugar, vanilla extract, and a dash of nutmeg. They also use bourbon instead of brandy. The drink is not originally from New Orleans, but try having brunch at Brennan’s without one. Bad show.
Ramos’ Gin Fizz – is the creation of Henry C. Ramos at his Imperial Cabinet Saloon in 1888. Ingredients include gin, lemon and lime juice, egg white, sugar, cream, soda water, and orange flower water. The secret is in the shaking.
The original recipe calls for 12-minutes of shaking. Ramos used to employ shakers. 12-20 people who would take turns shaking the mixing cups to get the milkshake texture. Governor Huey P. Long has many Ramos Gin Fizz stories.
Is the Bar Spinning?
Vieux Carré (Old Square) – is a cocktail dating from the 1930s. The bartenders at the Carousel Bar and Lounge at the festive Hotel Monteleone have the honor of making the first one. It contains rye, cognac, vermouth, Bénédictine, Peychaud’s Bitters, and Angostura bitters. Bitters are flavorless alcohol they infuse with herbs, roots, fruit, or leaves.
Old Square is another name for the French Quarter.
Absinthe frappé – Absinthe is an anise-flavored liqueur derived from several plants, including wormwood, green anise, sweet fennel, and other herbs. This naturally green liquid has a high level of alcohol and is sometimes referred to as la fée verte ‘the green fairy‘. It grew to imense popularity with the Parisian Bohemian community of artists and writers. Notable absinthe drinkers included Oscar Wilde, Ernest Hemingway, Lewis Carroll, James Joyce, and others. Anything French soon found its way to New Orleans. The Absinthe frappé was created at the Old Absinthe House circa 1874, and was a favorite of Mark Twain. For the frappe, they add soda water and top it with a sprig of mint.
Café Brûlot Diabolique – is somewhere between a coffee and a dessert. Café Brûlot means “burnt coffee,” and includes coffee and brandy being set aflame and spooned over orange rind. The result is a thick, sweet coffee with a citrus finish. Although you can find it at any upscale Creole restaurant, I prefer Antoine’s where it was allegidly born circa 1880.
Louisiana Spirits
Even if you usually do not imbibe, Louisiana, and especially New Orleans, have a way of changing that.
There are cocktails for breakfast, brunch, lunch, late afternoon, happy hour, dinner, and late at night. Is it something in the water? Is it something in the festive air?
The food is incredible, but Louisiana spirits have always been close alongside the cuisine.
You could eat your way through a visit to Louisiana. You could do the same with a drink. Why not enjoy both together. Enjoy Louisiana cuisine with Louisiana Spirits.