Table of Contents:
SHOULD SEE SITKA
NON-RUSSIAN SITKA
Ancient Alyeska.
Alaska is a young state in the United States, joining the lower 48 in 1959, but its history is ancient.
Going back to around 14,000 B.C., groups began following animals (food) from Asia. But Asia is on the other side of the Pacific. Well, back then, Asia and North America were one body of land.
Some scientists believe the Bering Land Bridge was connecting Asia with North America at that time. Then, as the continents begin to drift, the land bridge sinks beneath the Chukchi and Bering Seas’ waters. Others believe that during the glacial epoch, the ocean levels fell enough to expose the land bridge. But most agree that the people of western Alaska and eastern Siberia have much in common biologically.
Some migrate south. Those remaining in the Alaska area break into different tribes. Eventually, there are distinct first people tribes. They include the Ancient Beringian, Alaskan Athabaskans, Eyak, Tlingit, Haida, Tsimshian, Eskimo, Iñupiat, Yupik, and Aleut.
The Tlingit people will settle the area of Sitka over 10,000 years ago.
Over the years, they acclimate to the climate and environment and develop their own cultures and languages.
The name “Alaska” comes from the Aleut word Alaxsxaq or Alyeska, which means the “mainland.”
The Russians are Coming.
The Russians, expanding eastward, reach the Pacific Coast of Asia in 1639. In less than 100 years, they over-hunt Siberia, depleting its fur-bearing mammals. Emperor Peter the Great orders navigator Vitus Bering to explore the North Pacific in 1725 for new mammals populations. Bering finds thick fog and ice and has to turn back. Aleksei Chirikov finally reaches the North American mainland by 1741.
They quickly develop the fur trade, which creates conflict with the Aleuts. The Russians then lay claim to Alaska in 1784, establish the first permanent Russian settlement. It is on Three Saints Bay on the south shore of Kodiak Island. They would soon move it to the north shore where present-day Kodiak sits.
By 1794, Eastern Orthodox missionaries began to arrive, evangelizing the Native Americans, and converting many to Christianity.
First Europeans to Sitka.
Many believe the Russians were the first outsiders to reach Sitka.
However, James Cook came through here in the summer of 1778 on his third and final voyage. The Spanish, sailing from San Blas on the west coast of today’s Mexico, visit a year later. They are looking for Cook and the Northwest Passage.
They take control of Sitka for Spain and name it Puerto de Santiago. However, they do not remain long.
It is not until circa 1799 that the Russians will arrive in Sitka. They claim it and rename the settlement Fort of Archangel Michael.
The Czar set up his own company, the Russian-American Company (RAC). He appoints Alexander Baranov as the first Chief Manager.
How Not to be a Welcome Guest.
The Russians over-harvest sea otters and other fur-bearing animals, many sacred to the locals. Next, they push against the Tlingit tribes of southeast Alaska, and the Tlingit push back. Finally, in June of 1802, Tlingit warriors destroy the original settlement of Novoarkhangelsk, killing most of the Russians.
Baranov returns in August 1804 with a large force and naval gunboat. The Battle of Sitka lasts for two days before the Tlingit surrender. Baranov builds New Archangel and installs more than 30 cannons to ward off future attacks. The two groups live in a fragile peace.
The Russian trapping empire continues to grow, eventually building seventeen settlements in Alaska alone.
You’ve Got a Friend.
Russian Father Ioann Veniaminov sets off to the island of Unalaska, arriving in 1824. He begins studying the local languages and dialects. He also trains some of his parishioners in Russian building techniques. They construct the Holy Ascension Church. His parish includes several other islands that he would paddle to in a canoe. During his travels, he became familiar with the local dialects. He then creates an alphabet for the most widely used dialect, the Aleut’s Unangan. By 1828, he is translating portions of the Bible and other church material into Unangan.
The church transfers him to New Archangel circa 1834. He immediately devotes himself to the Tlingit people and begins to learn their language and customs. He begins writing books in Russian, documenting the Indigenous people he has met, their customs, and their dialects.
In 1840, he became a monk after his wife dies. He takes the name of Innocent in honor of the Saint with the same name. In December, the church consecrates him Bishop of the Russian islands of Kamchatka and Kuril Islands in Russia. His see also includes the Aleutian Islands in Russian America.
He returns to New Archangel around September 1841. There, he spends the next nine years administering his diocese. He continues his missionary journeys into remote areas.
Get Rid of It.
By the mid-1800s, the sea otter, bears, wolves, and foxes in Russia-America are almost extinct. So are the First Native people. Exposure to European diseases and violence is responsible for wiping out 85% of their population.
In 1856, Russia was reeling in debt from the Crimean War. Profits from Alaska are dropping. European competition and unrest from the remaining First Native people are rising. Russia can no longer afford Russia-America.
Emperor Alexander II sells Alaska to the United States for $7.2 million in 1867. Many indigenous people protest, arguing that they are the rightful owners, not Russia. The transfer ceremony takes place in Sitka.
The Presbyterian minister Rev. Sheldon Jackson opens a mission school for Tlingit children circa 1878. As the native parents cannot afford tuition, they must indenture their children to the school for five years.
This school will grow into Sheldon Jackson College. Author James Michener lives at the college while researching his epic novel, “Alaska.”
Sitka serves as the first U.S. Government Capital of the Department of Alaska until1884. In that year, the soon-to-be state becomes a District of Alaska.
By 1906, Juneau, thanks to the discovery of gold, is the largest city in Alaska. So they move the seat of government there.
Sitka, not on the Inside Passage and not producing gold, continues to decline in economic importance.
Sitka in the 1900s.
By 1912, the poor treatment of First Nation people in Alaska comes to a boil. In Sitka, a group of people, including First Nation, create the Alaska Native Brotherhood. The original purpose was to make education accessible to the natives, thereby improving their standing in the community.
Two years later, they construct the Alaska Native Brotherhood Hall on Katlian Street. The organization still owns the hall, which is now a National Historic Landmark.
Sitka and World War II.
The United States Navy establishes the first seaplane base on Japonski Island, adjacent to Sitka, circa 1937. Four years later, they build Fort Ray, an army garrison to protect the Naval air station.
Both bases go on high alert after the bombing of Pearl Harbor. They will remain active until the end of the war. Today, the Sitka airport and Coast Guard Air Station are on Japonski Island.
After the War.
A pulp mill begins operating circa 1959, providing work for more than 400 people at its peak.
Fish canning and some small-scale gold mining also employ locals.
By 1962, the population is large enough to support the Sitka Community College, which includes a large vocational department. It will become the University of Alaska Southeast circa 1987.
Sitka Today.
Sitka has always been somewhat by itself. Although the Alaska Marine Highway ferry can reach it via a back “roads” route, large ships cannot. Instead, they must brave the north Pacific Ocean, making the narrow harbor entrance challenging in bad weather.
The population is around 8,500 (2020) and shows a gradual decline in residents.
The economy is diverse, which helps protect Sitka from major downturns. The seafood industry, health care,
the federal government, and the U.S. Forest Service employ most of the workforce.
Tourism is not as big a player as in some Alaska ports. Due in part to port access in rough weather and its location off the main Inside Passage.
What is in Sitka for Me?
See & Hear.
Get out and see the area’s natural beauty, whether at sea level or from a mountainside.
It is not unheard of to see whales, bears, and eagles just outside of town. So take a hike and listen to nature all around you. Sea Otters are also a local favorite.
Another option is to sit on a city bench, listening to life happening all around you.
Taste & Smell.
Take a walk through the woods after a rainstorm. The smells are numerous. Alder wood and fresh Alaska salmon create a treat for the nose and the taste buds. It’s hard to eat salmon anywhere else after you try it in Alaska.
Feel.
Take a walk, and here and there, a building from Sitka’s past comes into view. Some retain a bit of their Russian heritage. The whole town has the feel of a small seaside community because it is.
Sip a cup of coffee with a view of the harbor at sunrise. You can see a few of the fishing boats as the fog starts to lift. Gradually, mountains start to come into view, and sunbeams hit the top of Mount Edgecomb.
There may be better ways to start your day, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should-see Sitka.
Sitting on Baranof Island, it is in the shadow of Mt Edgecumbe. The mountain is a dormant volcano near the Queen Charlotte Fault, separating the North American and Pacific Plates.
Sitka was the capital of Russian – Amerika and the location where America took possession. Very little of the Russian occupation remains.
Old Sitka State Historical Park.
This site is home to the remains of the first Russian-American settlement. Due to wood construction in a rainy climate, only foundations remain. Today, the site is best for hiking/walks. It is near the end of the road seven miles out of town.
Baranof Castle / Castle Hill.
Overlooking the harbor, this site began as a Tlingit strategic fortification. The Russians occupy the place from 1804-1867. This is where the transfer of Alaska to the United States takes place. Today, this national historic site is a lookout point with some historical markers.
Russian Bishop’s House.
this was once the Russian Mission Orphanage. Today it is a national historic house museum and one of the few examples of Russian colonial architecture surviving. The building dates from 1842.
St Michael’s Russian Orthodox Church
The most famous Russian Sitka building sits in the middle of the town. The present church dates from 1967, after the 1844 building disappears in a fire. There are religious icons from the first church. Admission is $5, and hours vary.
Russian Block House
This recreation is one of three watchtowers guarding the Russian fort between 1804 to 1867. Unfortunately, you cannot enter this tower at 120 Katlian Street, next to the Pioneer Home.
Building Number 29.
A few doors from St. Michaels, this National Historic Landmark is rather non-descript. Plaques on the front between the two retail shops are the only indication of its history.
During the Russian-American Company period, this building was their kitchen, laundry, and dorms for the employees. Look for the light green building with four dormer windows on the top floor.
Non-Russian
Sheldon Jackson Museum.
On the grounds of Sheldon Jackson College. The building, dating from 1895, is the oldest cement building in Alaska. The majority of the items are from the collection of Rev. Dr. Sheldon Jackson, a Presbyterian missionary. He would travel through Alaska each year, acquiring nearly 5,000 items before he was through.
Sheldon Jackson College.
Seventeen of the school’s buildings are now part of this National Historic Landmark. Unfortunately, due to financial problems, the private college shut down circa 2007. Today, the Sitka Fine Arts Camp occupies some of the buildings. This summer camp offers many performances open to the public. Click the orange link for more information.
Sitka Pioneer Home.
The current National Historic Landmark building dates from the 1930s. It sits on the site of the original Pioneer Home from 1913.
Sitka History Museum.
The museum, run by the historical society, is in the Harrigan Centennial Hall. The collection includes artifacts, paintings, prints, historical photographs, documents, and more. They cover Sitka from circa 1740 to today.
Sitka Lutheran Church.
Adjacent to St Michael’s, the current building dates from 1967. It sits on the location of two prior churches, the first dating from 1843. Several pieces from the original church are visible inside. These include the altarpiece and the historic pipe organ.
Tlingit Indians.
Even fewer remnants of the original inhabitants exist.
Sitka National Historical Park
Officially, the park includes most of downtown Sitka, including the Bishop’s House. However, many people think it is only the park south of town. The park has a lovely collection of Haida and Tlingit totem poles in various parts of the park. The park building houses original totems, a museum, and a Tlingit arts program where you can talk to Native artists.
Southeast Alaska Indian Cultural Center.
Near the walking trails south of town, this is one of the workshop locations. Here, artisans, many of whom are masters, demonstrate native techniques.
Sheet’ká Ḵwáan Naa Kahídi.
Next to the Pioneer House, this is a “community house” for the local Sitka Tribe of Alaska.
The multi-use building includes a gift shop, artist co-op, and performance center. Check their website for summer performances. It is also the location of Southeast Alaska’s largest clan-house screen from hand-carving.
Wild and Marine Life.
Sitka Sound is full of marine life, including visiting Humpback whales and the adorable Sea Otters. Kayaks, private boats, jet boats, and large tour boats offer various tours to look for sea life.
Alaska Raptor Center is a non-profit rehabilitation center for birds of prey. Visit and see the steps necessary to nurse these incredible birds back to health. And if possible, prepare them to return to nature.
Fortress of the Bear – is another non-profit organization that cares for abandoned Brown and Black Bear cubs. The goal is to return those who can fend for themselves back to nature.
Saint Lazaria National Wildlife Refuge. (Saint Lazaria Wilderness).
Part of the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge, this rugged island is twenty miles west of town. It is a nesting bird colony for storm petrels, thick-billed murres, rhinoceros auklets, tufted puffins, and more.
Sitka Alaska Summary
There is quite a bit to do in the Sitka area. In addition, they host a Jazz Festival in February and a Summer Music Festival in June.
If you are flying out of Sitka, leave for the airport 45 minutes earlier than you need. A piece of homemade fruit pie at the Sitka airport restaurant is a tradition.
So, who knew there was so much to do in Sitka?
But what about “The House” from the 2009 movie, “The Proposal?” Although the story’s setting is Sitka, almost all the filming was in Manchester by the Sea, Massachusetts. Even the “Welcome to Sitka” sign.
But that’s not the reason you’re coming to Sitka. It’s a seaside town with a sprinkling of First Nation and Russian heritage. It’s the beautiful sea and land environments. And there’s the marine and wildlife.
Come explore less-crowded Alaska in Sitka.