Table of Contents:
SPANISH WINE TODAY
SPANISH WINE GRAPES.
CLASSIFIED GRAPES.
SPANISH WINE REGIONS.
THE ISLANDS.
SUMMARY.
Beers of Spain. Spanish Spirits
Spanish wine, like much of the wine from countries along the Mediterranean, has been around for more than 3000 years. Thanks to the Greeks exploring west along the coast and bringing their knowledge of winemaking with them.
The Spanish wines from present-day Tarragona (northern Mediterranean coast) and Andalucia (southern Mediterranean coast) being the most productive.
Soon after, the Roman Republic, who also began producing wine thanks to the Greeks, needs more wine. They formally seize Hispania, and its Spanish wine is now Roman.
Not so Ancient Spanish Wine.
For the next several thousand years, the Roman Empire grows and makes improvements to wine and production.
When the Roman Empire falls around 476 AD., the church picks up where the Romans left off. Unfortunately, everyone is invading Hispanola, and there is not much time to make wine.
By the time the Moors invade around 700 A.D., Spanish wine production has taken a backseat to Gaul (France) and Italy. Although Islamic law frowns on alcohol, several Caliphs produce and drink it.
For approximately the next 800 years, the Spanish Christians recapture parts of Hispaniola, and as they do, revitalize the wine production. England becomes a massive market for Spanish wines. Later, in 1492, Christopher Columbus develops a new demand for Spanish wines.
In 1863, the Phylloxera epidemic appeared on the mainland of Europe. As a result, France’s and Italy’s wine industry are in ruin. This disaster turns out well for Spain. They are now the primary producer of wine for the world. Several French vintners move to Spain and bring their knowledge of viniculture. By the time the Phylloxera reaches the vineyards of Rojas, the Spanish winemakers know what is causing it. They have already started planting the new tolerant vines.
Not the Best Century.
Civil and political upheaval would mark most of Spain’s 20th century. In the 1920s, the military takes over and leads the country as a Dictatorship. This move leads to an all-out Civil War by 1936. Toss in two World Wars as bookends around this, and you have an economy battered to pieces. The bad guys destroy many vineyards in the civil war.
For Spanish wine, the end of the Second World War did not signal good times. Under the military dictator, Francisco Franco, they set up large co-operative wineries during the 1950s. All the excellent vineyards and all the bad, pour their wine into one, making all Spanish wine mediocre. It isn’t until after his 1975 death that vintners can strike out on their own again.
In 1986, Spain joined the European Union, and the Spanish wine industry gets some much-needed support.
Today, Spain has the largest area of vineyards, almost 3 million acres. Unfortunately, their soil is not as fertile as France and Italy’s, so they must plant the vines further apart. Therefore, they are the third-largest producer of wine.
Spanish wine today.
In general, most of Spain’s wine comes from 20 different grapes. However, there are still more than 400 varieties of grapes planted that make up the other 20% of production. As Spanish wines grow in popularity, I believe the other grapes will also.
The largest growing areas in Spain lie in the Meseta Central plateau, pretty much in the central part of Spain. Several of the major rivers flow from here, including the Ebro, Duero, Tajo, and the Guadalquivir rivers. Mountains also influence the climates of the various wine regions. Due to the plateaus hot, dry climate, Spain is famous for its red wines.
How Do you Keep Spanish Wine Straight?
Quick answer, you do not. With over 4,000 wineries and the 400 varieties of grapes we mentioned, it’s just not possible.
But there are a few things we can do to make it less confusing.
Spanish Wine Grape Types.
These are the most popular grapes currently.
Red varieties
Tempranillo (tem-pre-nye-o).
Tempranillo is the most popular Red Wine Grape in Spain. “Temprano” (early in Spanish) is when this grapes harvesting takes place. To confuse you, it goes by several other names; Tinto Fino, Cencibel, and Ull de Llebre depending on the region. The grape produces fresh, fruity young red wines and oak-aged bold, mature wines.
Garnacha (Gar-na-cha).
Although you can find this grape in just about every wine-producing country, it started in Spain. Here, you will mostly see it in the Northeast areas such as La Rioja, Navarra, Aragón, and Cataluña. The end product is a fruity red. In France, this is a Grenache.
Bobal (BO-bal).
Found mainly in the south around Valencia, these full-bodied reds are getting better and better.
Monastrell (mon-A-strel).
Also from the south near Valencia, these are reds with firm structure and a higher than average strength.
Syrah (See-ra).
Somewhat of a newcomer to Spain, it has caught on locally. It is not your father’s Syrah. In Spain, they produce a full-bodied, high in alcohol, Syrah. If you like Syrah, definitely give it a try.
Cabernet Sauvignon.
Although not a traditional Spanish grape, it is a significant ingredient in many of the wines that they export. They blend the wine to give more body to the Spanish grapes.
Merlot.
This French grape follows the Cab story. They use it for blending in the wines they export. They export a LOT of wine, so I mention both grapes as they grow large numbers of both. (More Cab than Merlot).
White grapes varieties.
Spain produces more red wines than white or rose, but don’t overlook them.
Albariño (ahl-ba-REE-n’yo).
It is a Spanish grape varietal coming from the northwest, especially the Rías Baixas D.O. (Designation of origin). They are crispy yet silky with a distinctive aroma. Similar to a Sauvignon Blanc.
Godello (go-DAY-oh).
Also, from Spain’s Northwest, this high-quality grape was almost extinct. Now it is back and produces aromatic, exciting wines. Similar to a Chardonnay.
Verdejo (ver-DAY-ho).
This grape is a favorite in commercial production for its aromatic and full body. It can also age in oak for more complex wines.
Palomino (pal-o-MEH-no).
Used mainly for traditional dry varieties of Sherry and other fortified wines. Predominantly in the South of Spain.
Airen (r-ee-rane).
This unheard-of Spanish white varietal is one of the world’s top three most popular grapes. Unfortunately, it requires a larger area, and they are replacing it with vines that can be closer together. Due to its anonymous flavor, it is generally for making Spanish brandy.
Xareló (hah-REHL-lo), Parellada (par-eh-LYAH-duh), and Macabeo (mah-kah-BEH-oh).
These are the three significant grapes they are using to produce Cava. Cava is the Spanish sparkling wine that is growing in popularity.
Classified Grapes.
Spanish wine classification is in a system similar to that used in France.
- Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa/DOQ) This is for wine regions with a consistent track record of quality wines. It is the top classification.
- Denominación de Origen (Denominació d’Origen in Catalan – D.O.) – This classification covers more than 60% of Spain’s wine regions. These are the mainstream quality-wine regions.
- Vinos de Calidad con Indicación Geográfica (VCIG) – This level is a stepping stone towards D.O. status. After holding VCIG rank for five years, a region may apply for D.O. status.
- Vino de la Tierra (VdlT) – This level is slightly stricter than Vino de Mesa and allows vintners to put the region or area on the label.
- Vino de Mesa (VdM) – Think table wines. They make these from unclassified vineyards or grapes that no longer have a classification. This route can have two outcomes, either everyday wine or excellent wines. Spanish winemakers declassify their wines to have greater flexibility in blending and methods they use. Similar to Italy’s Super Tuscans.
- Vino de Pago – Small but mighty is the Denominación de Pago (D.O. de Pago). Instead of an entire region, this is for single-estates with an excellent reputation. There are less than 20 of these.
What’s in a Spanish Wine Label?
Like many European countries, the Spanish wine label will not have a year on it. The exception is if they harvest a minimum percentage of the grapes in the same year. In Spain, it’s 85%. But the label will tell you if the wine has undergone any aging.
- Sin Crianza (vino joven – young) – goes through little to no wood aging. These wines are usually for consumption within a year.
- Crianza – wine must be in oak for six months. White and Roses must age an additional six months either in oak or the bottle. For red wines, they must receive another 18 months.
- Reserva – whites require six months in oak plus an additional 18 months of aging. Red wines age for at least three years with a minimum of one year in oak.
- Gran Reserva – First, the grapes need to come from an above-average harvest. Then whites go through a minimum of four years with at least six months aging in oak. Red wines go through a minimum of five years aging, with a minimum of 18 months in oak.
Spanish Wine Regions.
If we divide it up by wine regions, that will surely simplify things, right? Well.
Spain has over 60 individual wine regions. Not so simple. Therefore, we will look at the significant areas, predominantly based on climate. Starting in the north and going clockwise, this narrows it down to six regions.
Ebro River Valley (North).
The subregions include the Pais Vasco (Basque), La Rioja, and Navarra.
Mountains protect, and rivers nourish some of Spain’s most famous (and rightly so) vineyards.
- La Rioja area – is Tempranillo land, and it is the main ingredient in award-winning, aged reds.
- Basque country – (around Bilbao and the north coast) zesty young white wines are the most popular. Txakoli (“CHALK-olli”) wines pair well with the local seafood.
- Navarra (east of La Roja) specializes in Rosada (rosé) wine. The Garnacha grape is the most popular for making this rose. The region also produces white wines ranging from light to full-bodied. As white is only about 10% of their output, these are hard to find. But well worth it for the white wine drinker.
Mediterranean Coast. (Southeast).
The subregions include Valencia, Catalonia, Priorat, and Murcia.
When the Greeks arrived, it was on the shores of the Meditteranean, where they first planted their vines. The warmth of the sea, along with the nearby mountains, created various terrains for growing.
- Priorat – is a small subregion near Barcelona famous for its red wines. And not just recently. Their wine history goes back to 1100 when monks are also winemakers.
- Valencia and Murcia being warmer growing regions, produce much of the value wines that they export. These include reds and whites.
- Catalonia is famous for Spain’s answer to Champagne. The sparkling wine, Cava. It grows in popularity every year.
Andalucia. (Southern).
The subregions include Rhonda, Malaga, Cordoba, and Huelva.
With summer temperatures over 100°F, Andalusia is an ideal area for producing fortified and dessert wines. Also, there are varied terrain and rainfall.
- Rhonda benefits from the nearby Sierras and produces young red and white wines.
- Cordoba produces several white wines from dry to sweet. They use several for blending in wines and Sherry.
- Malaga is famous for sweet dessert wines. They also produce reds and roses.
- Huelva makes predominantly white wines. The Mediterranean climate and sandy soil do not support reds. The whites also go with the local seafood.
Andalucía is also famous for dessert wines. Although we (confusingly) call all of them Sherry, that label only applies to fortified wines made with white grapes grown in the area near Jerez. There are many other dessert wines from Andalusia, including Manzanilla, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, and Oloroso, to name a few. Sherry has protected designation of origin status, meaning it must come from this area. All Sherry begins its life as a dry wine. The finished Sherry ranges from very dry (fino) to sweet (cream). You can also find sweeter ones if you look.
Central Plateau. (Southcentral).
The subregions include La Mancha, Valdepenas, Mentrida, and Ribera del Jucar.
The central plateau is home to 60% of Spain’s vineyards. Although hot like Andalucia in the day, the area has an average elevation of 2,300-2,600 feet and, therefore, not as warm in the evenings leading to more complex wines.
- Méntrida – produces a high-quality red and white. It is home to the first Vino de Pago (small but mighty) wines.
- Ribera del Jucar – Quality reds are coming from this region with Tempranillo and various blends of Cabernet, Syrah, and Petit Verdot.
- Valdepenas – also a producer of “value” wine, is now producing wines with aged Tempranillo similar to wines from Rioja.
- La Mancha – The hot plains of La Mancha were once a producer of cheap wine. Now they make impressive white wines.
Vinos de Madrid – gets a special mention for good whites. However, as Madrid grows, there are fewer and fewer acres for wine. Try them now.
Duero River Valley. (Northcentral).
The subregions include Ribera del Duero, Toro, Sardon de Duero and Rueda
This region is the Castile-Leon area of Spain, and the countries best-kept wine secret.
There are no major must-see cities here (false, there are some must-sees).
It’s not really “on the way” to anywhere most travelers are going (FALSE). It has 8 UNESCO World Heritage sites, over 110 historic places, 400 museums (even more castles), 12 cathedrals, and the largest concentration of Romanesque art. Culinary-wise, it is home to incredible pork dishes, pine nuts, and Queso Zamorano cheese. So the wine has to be great.
- Ribera del Duero – has some of the best reds in Spain, rivaling Rioja. The red wines must contain a minimum of 75% Tempranillo.
- Sardon de Duero – is also famous for its reds. This region is home to the Golden Mile, a micro-climate that is home to some of Spain’s best wineries. Although dating back to Roman times, this winemaking region is not an official appellation.
- Toro – meaning bull, is a great name for these robust reds. Tinta de Toro, a local variation of Tempranillo, is the dominant grape variety here.
- Rueda – is a region of robust reds, Rueda makes some excellent whites. Here, the Verdejo grape, rules, and the local wine must contain at least 50% Verdejo.
Northwest (Green) Spain.
The subregions include Rías Baixas, Ribeiro, Ribeira Sacra, Valdeorras, and Monterrei.
These lush green rolling hills and valleys are so unlike the rest of Spain. The moisture from the nearby Atlantic Ocean makes it ideal for white wines.
- Rias Baixas – runs along the Atlantic near the Portuguese border. The soil is a granite-base making for minerally tasting whites.
- Ribeiro – Is slightly inland from the Atlantic and, therefore, slightly warmer and less misty than Rías Baixas. Consequently, you see some more red wines from this area. Both white and red wines are more acidic.
- Ribeira Sacra – This region has dramatic landscaping, with wine terraces clinging to insanely steep slopes, along the banks of the Miño and Sil Rivers. While they produce white wines, the area is famous for robust reds. The chilly nighttime temperatures make for long ripening periods, which lead to more complex flavors.
- Valdeorras – being farthest inland, Valdeorras doesn’t receive much of an Atlantic influence, but it has plenty of rainfall. This climate is ideal for their layered, medium-bodied white wines. This region is the home of the Godello grape wines, somewhat like chardonnay, but not. They also barrel-ferment some producing a more vibrant, Burgundian-styled wine.
- They also produce some red wines from Mencía and other red grapes. These lead to vibrant, fruitier style reds and roses.
The Islands.
The Balearics, (Mediterranean).
The two D.O.s are Binissalem and Pla I Llevant and several regulated ‘Vi de la Terra’ labels (regional wines)
The island of Mallorca, the largest of the Balearics, at one time, had close to 100,000 acres of vines planted. Today there are less than 1400 acres. For this reason, few Mallorca wines make it outside of Spain if they even make it off of the islands.
- Binissalem – produces red wines that feel warm and velvety on the tongue, with a pleasant after-taste. The alcohol content is a medium-high. For whites, they have both sparkling and fruity white wines offering a suitable structure and a lovely mouth sensation. You can also find Muscat wines.
- Pla i Llevant – Pla (plain) I (of the) Llevant (east coast) describes the original area of wine-producing dating back to the Romans. Here, white wines are king. They blend red wines to give a more complex taste. They are fruity and fresher due to their low levels of tannins.
Mallorca wines rate high and are a great reason to visit this charming island.
The Canary Islands (Atlantic).
Each island producing wine has its own island-wide D.O. except for Tenerife, who has several.
13 Islands lying off the western coast of Morocco. The six main islands producing wine are Tenerife (the closest at 62 miles), Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, La Palma, La Gomera, and El Hierro (the furthest at 300 miles west of Morocco). They export sugar cane from these islands to transplant into the new world. (Sweet wines travel better).
An interesting fact for wine enthusiasts is that these islands remain phylloxera-free during the European plague.
The grapes on these islands may not exist anywhere else in the world. Many of the vines are hundreds of years old. Also, the volcanic soil adds its unique touch.
Red and rose wines do exist in the Canary Islands, despite the coastal climate. There are mountains from the volcanoes. However, think fruity, Beaujolais-like style, fewer tannins, and easy to drink.
Islands.
- Tenerife – the largest of the archipelago’s islands, is the only one with more than one D.O. zone. It has five. Each area has its characteristics, but they all generally grow white and red grapes.
- Lanzarote – deserves attention due to its black volcanic soil. The wines are typically white, from Malvasia grapes. With no trees for protection from the wind, they build stone walls around them. Similar to what you will find on the Greek island of Santorini.
- Gran Canaria – has a wide range of microclimates, leading to a variety of wines. Tinto del Monte (red of the mountain) is a vibrant, robust red.
- La Palma – has quite an irregular topography, creating micro-terrains. Due to more precipitation than other islands, they grow other crops like bananas and oranges. The red grape Negramoll is the most cultivated here and is used to make the local specialty vino de tea, the wine they age in pine barrels.
- La Gomera – The terrain is extremely mountainous. Therefore vineyards are terraces on steep slopes, and the grape harvesting is by hand. The most productive grape is the Forastera, which produces several varietal white wines.
- El Hierro – There are only a handful of wine producers and a local co-operative, so wines do not leave the island very often. Wine purists take flights or ferries to the island to sample wines
from vines often hundreds of years old. While white wines dominate, they also produce reds.
So, what to take away about Spanish wine?
First, there are over 60 different regional D.O.s, growing more than 400 indigenous varieties of wine grapes. Keep in mind, many of these do not grow anywhere else. By all means, search for them, once in a life.
Another critical point, there are over 500,000 vineyards (on the register) in Spain. A majority are less than five acres in size. In other words, too many to remember.
Even if you focus on only one region, it’s enough to drive you to drink Spanish wine.
The wine has always been a “part” of Spain as much as Paella. In the last 30 years, it has taken on even more importance.
I usually go with the house (local) wine, which pairs well with the local food. However, waiters in Spain (now) know something about wine.
In short, keep it simple, and enjoy Spanish wine.
Salud! (sa-LUDE) Health.