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Just about everyone on my groups to Seville come back glowing. But after figuring in the almost four-hour round-trip from the port of Cadiz, it happens in a blur. The places they need to explore turn into photo stops. It is the proverbial kids in front of the candy store window scenario.
It is much better than nothing. I call cruise ships the travel buffet: A little taste of this country, and a little taste of that one. You can always go back for more later.
When it comes to the areas further from the port, Berlin, Paris, Florence, Rome, Cairo, it is barely a taste.
Seville has so much to offer, and it needs more than a few hours.
Ancient History.
If you ask anyone in Spain, who was here first, they say the Spanish or maybe the Gauls. Ask an Italian, and they tell you it is the Romans. Who were the first people to live in present-day Seville is unclear. But it appears to be the same people who were first to Southern France and Italy, the Phoenicians (Greeks.)
References to Tartessos, a colony at the mouth of the Guadalquivir River, date back to the 8th century B.C. From here, they explore upriver, setting up a camp (Hisbaal) on an island near present-day Seville.
They would mine silver, gold, and copper in the mountains and bring it here to trade.
By the end of the Phoenician occupation, there is a colony of Spal, meaning “lowland” in Phoenician. Excavations in the area date back to the 8th century B.C.
The Carthaginians attack circa 500 B.C., taking the area for themselves.
Roman Seville.
The Battle of Ilipa during the Second Punic War (circa 206 B.C.) ends with the Roman general Scipio defeating the Carthaginians and claiming the area for Rome. The Romans will hold on to the city for around 700 years.
Spal becomes Hispalis (flat land) to the Romans. They create one of the major markets and industrial centers of Hispania.
Across the river to the west, the Roman city of Italica springs up. It will boast two Roman Emperors (Trajan and Hadrian) as local sons.
Not So Ancient.
Circa 5th-century A.D., along come the Vandals, Suebi, and Visigoths, Germanic people from the north. They will hold onto the area for approximately 300 years.
Rise of the Caliphate.
With the death of Muhammad in 632 A.D., the Islams set up an Islamic state they call a caliphate. The first is Rashidun, and they choose, through Islamic democracy, four Caliphs to run it.
The area stretches from today’s Iran to the Mediterranian coast of Lybia. It includes Iraq, Syra, Lebanon, Israel, Saudia Arabia, Oman, Yemen, and northern Egypt.
They almost immediately disagree. By 661, after a revolt, a few assassinations, they are in the First Muslim Civil War. Out of this comes the second caliphate, the Umayyad.
The Umayyads rule from Damascus and grow the empire into one of the largest in history. They add Pakistan, Afganistan, Turkmenistan, and North Africa to the Atlantic.
Trouble From the South.
Circa 712 A.D., they cross into Southern Spain. In less than forty years, they will control Portugal and Spain except three kingdoms in the northwest. They set up a sub-capital in Cordoba. The rename Spain Al-Andalus.
They also cross the Pyrenees (Circa 730) and claim Southernwestern France to the Rhone.
The Reconquista.
The reconquest of Spain and Portugal from the Moors began almost the same time the Moors began invading.
The Battle of Covadonga (circa 722) is the first Christian victory against the Arabs.
The entire Reconquista will take approximately 780 years.
The Kingdoms of Asturias and Galicia.
The Berbers, North African soldiers under Arab control, revolt in 740 and desert the forts of northern Spain. Alfonso I, king of Asturias, grabs the empty forts and, in no time, overthrows Galicia and Leon.
He creates a barren no-mans-land between his kingdom and the Arabs, slowing their growth to the north.
Charles Martel.
Circa 739 A.D., Charles, leader of the Franks, is not happy with the al-Andalus advances into his France. He joins with the Lombards and pushes the Arabs back into Aquitania.
This area includes southern France and eastern Spain only to Barcelona.
Pepin the Short, Charles’s son and heir, will push them back over the Pyrenees by circa 759. His son Charlemagne will keep them there.
Umayyad Emirate of Cordova.
The Caliph of Cordova takes this period to blow off the authority of the Caliph in Damascus. He also separates from the Caliphs of Egypt.
With military lines to the north and east and water to the south and west, Al-Andalus has defining boundaries.
For approximately 180 years, the borders will go left, then right as the Arabs and Christians vie for land.
Many think these were religious wars, but that’s not 100% true. During the Arab occupation, Christians and Jews can practice their faiths.
Where does Seville Fit?
With Cordoba at the center of the Al-Andalus empire, anything along the Guadalquivir River is of importance.
There is dissent between the Berbers and the Arabs, and circa 991, the Arabs begin a power grab. It is the beginning of the implosion of their empire.
Trouble From the North.
By 1085, the Kingdom of Leon is on its sixth Alfonso. He takes Toledo, the capital of the Castile–La Mancha region, in the middle of Spain.
A year later, he attempts to take the region of Extremadura to the northwest of Andalusia. Alfonzo loses.
The Christian kingdoms are also battling each other in an attempt to grow power. Alfonso is battling the Kingdom of Aragon while fighting the Moors.
While everyone is looking north, the Almoravids, Berbers from Morrocco, slip in from the south. They depose the king of Granada before moving on to Cordoba, where they defeat the governor. Eventually, they enter Seville and send the king into exile. They reunify the Muslims in Al-Andalus and put their capital in Granada.
Circa 1147, another Berber Muslim movement takes over the Almoravids empire in North Africa. By 1172, The Almohad Caliphate is now in charge of all Muslim Iberia. They make their capital in Seville.
While the Moors are fighting the Moors, the Kingdoms of Castile, Navarre, and Aragon are making plans. Circa 1212, they defeat the Almohad. They regain Cordova by 1236 and Seville twelve years later.
A third Muslim Dynasty, the Nasrid, organize and slip into Granada while everyone else is off fighting. The Emirate of Grenada (Nasrid Kingdom) is much of today’s Granada, Almeria, and Malaga. They will remain in power for more than 250 years, the longest emirate of all.
Their secret is they purchase protection from the Kingdom of Castile with gold they import from Africa. They also provide military assistance against other Muslim areas, including the 1248 takeover of Seville. During this time, they begin building the Alhambra.
Seville of Castile.
King Ferdinand III of Castile constructs many public buildings in the Mudejar style. This form incorporates Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture with Muslim techniques. Some Moorish buildings they convert into Catholic structures.
They take the Moors’ Palace as their Castilian royal residence. Circa 1350, they tear down much of the original palace to build the Alcazar. The Spanish royal family still has access to the top levels as their official residence in Seville.
The Not-So Christianly Days of Seville.
1391 a pogrom, takes place in Seville, probably by the orders of Archdeacon Ferrant Martínez. They seize the synagogues and convert them into churches. These include San Bartolomé, Santa María la Blanca, Santa Cruz, and Convento Madre de Dios.
The church confiscates the Jewish quarter (Santa Cruz) and kills many Jews who they feel are not converting to Christianity.
Ferdinand and Isabella, – 1469.
Ferdinand II of Aragon marries Isabella I of Castile, uniting the two royal lines. They make Madrid the center of their political power.
The first tribunal takes place in Seville almost immediately. They believe the Jewish and Muslim converts poison the Catholic Church, and they need to purify the congregation.
At first, only the dioceses of Seville and Córdoba have the power to hold inquisitions.
The first Auto de Fé, public display of penance, takes place in Seville in 1481. They burn six people alive in the plaza de San Francisco for the crowd’s amusement.
By 1492, tribunals exist in seven additional Castilian cities. All Jews must convert to Catholicism or leave Spain. Unfortunately, they do not get out soon enough. The inquisition will go on for three hundred years in various forms. The death count ranges from 3,000 to 300,000.
In 1492, Columbus Sets Sail on his Ocean Blue.
Why is that any importance to landlocked Seville?
The port of Seville is 50 miles up the Guadalquivir river. Remember, we said this was an essential river to the former capital of Cordoba? That means the river has numerous fortifications making Seville a well-defended port to receive the spoils from the Americas.
The Casa de Contratacion (contract house) receives and records arriving items. This system makes sure the king gets his cut. Then they trade them with other towns.
Also, only ships departing from Seville can trade in the Spanish Colonies. So foreign ships have to pay coming and going in addition to the king’s cut. The Spanish call this a Monopolio. Seville’s population tops more than a hundred thousand people.
The Gold Begins to Tarnish.
By the late 16th century, the Dutch, British, French, and others have colonies in the Americas. They no longer rely on Spain for everything.
The colonies can produce many of their needs reducing the need for imports from Spain.
The Spanish Crown authorizes the port of Cádiz as a port of trade.
The amount of traffic on the narrow river and the extra time to sail to Seville does not help things.
Circa 1649, The Great Plague of Seville arrives on ships. Excessive flooding follows it, and more than 150,000 people die in the Seville area.
Twenty-five years later, another plague, in hand with poor harvests, knocks out another chunk of the population. By 1700, Seville’s part on the international stage is almost over. When boats can no longer reach the port, it goes into a decline.
Circa 1728, Charles III of Spain, seeing his golden goose dying, pumps money into Seville. He promotes Seville’s industries and funds construction of the Royal Tobacco Factory (Real Fábrica de Tabacos.) It will employ 1000 men when it finally opens. Seville is the only city in Spain to make snuff. When cigars become popular, they will hire 700 more men, not women, to make those.
The Guy with the Napoleon Complex.
In 1803, Napoleon began his conquest of Europe. By 1807, he is in Spain. The Peninsular War between Napoleon’s empire and Bourbon Spain affects all of Spain. The Spanish fight back, but are no match.
When troops from Britain, Spain, and Portugal begin arriving through Spanish ports, the tide starts to turn. However, this leads to many battles in these towns, including Seville.
It will not be until 1814 that the French finally retreat. Spain goes through a slow period of rebuilding while the nobles fight over control. The industrial age arrives in Spain.
Post Napoleon Renaissance.
Seville has an urban planning policy, and as the city grows, it follows the plan and designs. During Queen Isabel II (circa 1843–1868), the local bourgeoisie fund a significant construction boom.
Circa 1870. railway construction connects Seville with the outside world again. Many of the city’s ancient walls come down as the city bursts to the east and south.
The 1929 Ibero-American Exposition shows off the city to the world.
The Plaza de España, Alfonso XIII Hotel, and the Maria Luisa Park are still in use.
Spanish Civil War.
By 1936, two distinct camps are fighting for control of Spain. On one side are the Republicans, loyal to the currently-elected, left-leaning Second Spanish Republic.
On the other side are the Nationalists, who wish to rule under Falangism. Like Socialism, it believes in the need for total authority, hierarchy, and order over society. One of their leaders is General Francisco Franco, who moves up quickly through the ranks.
The nationalists take control of Seville early on.
By 1939, the Nationalists win the war. They will rule Spain until Franco’s death in November 1975. As of the last report, Francisco Franco is still dead.
Seville Today.
Franco’s death in 1975 brings on a period of democratization throughout Spain.
Spain becomes part of the European community by 1986.
Seville has newer highways, high-speed train connections with Madrid, and a modern airport.
It is the third most popular city in Spain after Madrid and Barcelona.
What is in Seville for me?
See & Hear.
Visit several of the city’s UNESCO World Heritage sites and explore.
Sit in one of the squares and watch and listen to the world passing or listen to exciting Flamenco music.
Taste & Smell.
Find the bakeries and cheese shops hidden in the different quarters?
Sample local tapas as you stroll from bar to bar.
Feel.
Although the Greek and Roman remains are few in the city, you can feel the thousands of years of history.
Could you sip sangria on a terrace in Spain and watch people pass? You think back over the fascinating architecture, a mixture of Moorish, Romantic, Gothic, and more.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Seville.
Seville’s Districts or Barrios.
Casco Antiguo.
The old quarter of Seville is in the center of the city on the east bank of the Guadalquivir river. It has twelve neighborhoods and can easily take up a full day or more.
North
San Gil.
The Calle Parlamento de Andalucía makes a natural dividing line between San Gil and the Macarena District to the north. Let’s start here.
Arco de la Macarena
It is one of only three city gates remaining from the 12th-century walls.
Wall of Seville.
As you stand facing the front (outside) of Arco de la Macarena, look to your left. Approximately four blocks of wall and towers, dating from the 12-century, stretch to the next gate, the Puerta de Córdoba.
Basílica de la Macarena.
Dating from 1949, this “new” catholic church is home to the wooden statue, The Virgin of Hope.
San Lorenzo.
This Barrio is to the west of San Gil along the river.
Real Monasterio de San Clemente.
This Cistercian monastery has been in operation since the 1500s. The architecture is from the 16th and 17th centuries.
Alameda de Hércules plaza.
This square or mall dates back to 1574. Today it is a meeting place for the young and Bohemian lifestyles, especially in the evenings. Check out the Roman Columns of Hercules. Also, the Casa de las Sirenas (Centro Cívico Las Sirenas) a 19th-century palace hosting expositions and cultural activities.
Feria.
Church of Omnium Sanctorum
This 13th-century church features different architectural styles, including a Mudejar tower and a Gothic portal. It is adjacent to the Mercado de Feria.
Palacio Marqueses de la Algaba
This 15th-Century structure is one of the best examples of Mudejar-Gothic architecture in the city. Home to one of the noble Sevillian families, the Guzmanes of La Algaba, is now the Mudejar Art Centre.
San Julián.
Church of St. Louis of the French
This lovely baroque church dates from 1730. The theatrical interior is worth a visit.
Monasterio de Santa Paula
The chapter dates from 1474, and the benefactor, Doña Isabel Enríquez, daughter of the Archbishop of Lisbon, became the benefactor ten years later. There have been numerous restorations and rebuilding since. As it is still in operation, only certain areas are open to the public.
Middle
San Vicente.
Basilica of Jesus del Gran Poder.
The neo-baroque basilica dates from circa 1405. It became a minor basilica with the blessing of Pope John Paul II in 1992.
Iglesia de San Lorenzo.
This 13th-century structure, next to the minor basilica, is in the Gothic-Mudejar style. The current facades date from circa 1550. Both are in the plaza de San Lorenzo, a lovely tree-lined square.
The tower is an old Arab minaret from a mosque, pre-dating the basilica.
Casa de la Memoria
This 16th-century courtyard house is now home to a Flamenco cultural center. There is a museum to the lively dance, and in the evenings, there are live performances.
Encarnación-Regina
Metropol Parasol (Las Setas)
The Seville mushroom is a modern structure dating from 2010 and housing several sites. While excavating, they uncover ruins from the Roman and Al-Andalus eras. The building has five levels, the top, Setas Viewpoint, being a magnificent overlook of the city.
Below are remains from the Romans 20 A.D. to the Al-Alucians 1220 A.D. on display behind plexiglass. You can see several parts up close as well as the many layers of the city.
From 1842 – 1973, this was the location of one of the city’s most important markets. Today, the street level contains a new modern market. You will also find the city’s official tourism shop with authentic items for purchase.
Palace of the Countess of Lebrija
Dating from the 16th century, much of what you see today is from renovations from 1700 to the 1900s. Now a museum, the ground floor includes numerous Roman mosaics and art pieces.
Guides lead tours of the upper floors, including the family rooms and architectural treasures. An art collection includes Van Dyke and other European masters, Asian art, antiquities, and European decorative arts. On the top floor is a library with more than 6000 books and essays.
Dating from 1670, this is probably the oldest bar in Seville. Expect crowds but a great Seville experience.
Santa Catalina
Church of Santa Catalina
Santa Catalina is another 14th-century church using the shell of a former mosque, hence the Mudejar tower. Some of the interior decorations date from circa 1400.
Convent of Santa Inés
The Santa Inés convent, dating from the 14th century, is still in operation. Would you buy a cookie to support a worthy cause? Many convents sell sweets to raise much of their operating income. Here, try the cortadillo, (a traditional Andalusia sweet,) or (and?) a Magdelena, a lemon zest muffin.
Palacio de las Dueñas
The Palace of the Dukes of Alba still belongs to the House of Alba. Dating the late 15th-century the architecture is Renaissance style with later Gothic and Moorish influences. The palace is a lovely maze of courtyards, passageways, and buildings. The art collection is quite impressive.
Museo.
Chapel of San José
Be on the lookout as this building is not freestanding, and you can almost miss it coming from the backside. It blends into other buildings. Once inside, you can not miss the interiors, many dating from the 1700s. The architectural style is Seville Baroque, and it is one of the best examples in the city. Make sure to check out the front facade from a distance.
Seville Museum of Fine Arts
Residing in a convent from circa 1594, the museum dates from 1839. The collection, mainly by Spanish artists, contains paintings and sculptures from the medieval period to the early 1900s.
Santa María Magdalena
This Baroque church with its facade on a narrow street, making it hard to appreciate. Dating from circa 1709, it sits upon a medieval church dating from soon after the 1248 Christian reconquest.
Mercado Lonja del Barranco
The original building dates from1883 and is the design of Gustave Eiffel, yes, THAT Eiffel. The iron and glass structure was originally a fish market. Today, it is a gourmet food market with approximately twenty stalls selling many small plates and adult beverages.
Puente de Isabel II
Next to the Mercado is this historic iron arch bridge dating from 1852. On the other side, in the Triana neighborhood, there is a more traditional market.
Alfalfa.
This large Baroque church dating from 1712, sits on the site of the principal Muslim mosque of Seville. There are quite a few gold decorations on the bright, soaring interior.
Monastery of San Leandro
The church order, dating from 1369, began construction of the monastery in the 16th-century. Much of the church you see today dates from the 18th-century. Still, in operation, the nuns at this convent also raise money from their sweets. Here, they specialize in the yemas, which are a cookie of egg yolks and lemon juice, they roll in sugar. You get a sift center with a crunchy outside. Ordering is also an experience. The nuns are cloistered, so they can not see you and visa versa. You put your money on a lazy Susan, it disappears into a wall, and soon after, your treats appear. Like a bank drive-through without a window.
Museo del Baile Flamenco
Residing in an 18th-century building, this museum is about everything flamenco. They also teach classes in the dance, guitar, and percussion, keeping the tradition alive. There are live shows in the evening in their outdoor courtyard.
Templo Romano de la Calle Mármoles
From the name, you expect something dramatic. In reality, there are three granite columns, probably from a Roman-era temple. There is an iron fence across this empty lot, and usually, it is overgrown. Do not go out of your way to see this. Save your time for Italica.
South
El Arenal
This Barrio is home to the three sites making up the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Cathedral, Alcázar, and Archivo de Indias in Seville.
Cathedral of Seville.
This 1403 Gothic Cathedral sits on the former location of a circa 1172 mosque. The structure is the largest Gothic building in Europe.
The royal chapel holds the remains of Ferdinand III of Castile, his heir Alfonso XI and his heir, Peter. The Cathedral is also the final resting place of Christopher Columbus and his oldest son Diego.
La Giralda
The bell tower of the Cathedral is the former minaret of the 1172 mosque. Standing 343 feet tall and 44 feet wide, it has many architectural styles due to changing times and an earthquake. The top section now dates from the Renaissance in the 1500s. You can climb the tower by walking up a series of ramps originally for horses.
Reales Alcázares de Sevilla (The Alcazar)
Who knows how old the Real Alcázar is. A Visigothic Christian basilica was here before the 712 invasions by the Umayyad Caliphate. For the next 500+ years, he and his predecessors rebuild, tear down, and enlarge their fortification twelve times.
In the 1200s, it becomes the residence of the Christian monarchs and receives Gothic and Romanesque elements. Circa 1366, king Pedro I builds the Mudéjar Palace in the Andalusian Mudejar style.
Major additions in the 1500s are in Renaissance style. A 1755 earthquake sees renovations in the Baroque style. The mixture is mesmerizing. As the royal family still has apartments here, it is Europe’s oldest palace still in use by monarchs.
Archivo General de Indias.
In a 1512 building that began as the merchants’ exchange, the Casa Lonja de Mercaderes now houses valuable documents. These archival documents tell the history of the Spanish Empire’s dealings in the Americas and the Philippines. The collection includes
The archives include material from the first Conquistadores through to the 1800s. These include the Pope’s declaration dividing the new world between Spain and Portugal, plans of the colonial cities, and more.
It also consists of the journals of Christopher Columbus. In total, there are more than 5 1/2 miles of shelves holding at least 43,000 volumes.
Non-UNESCO sites Worth Seeing.
Plaza del Triunfo
This plaza is between the Cathedral and the Archives.
- Casa de la Provincia – There is documentation of a building between the Cathedral and the Alcazar since circa 1370. It serves as a hostel for an old hospital, and later an asylum for the needy. Then, it becomes the headquarters of the Provincial Council of Seville from 1927 until 1994. It goes through numerous rebuilding and additions. Today, it serves as the offices of the Seville marketing and promotions department. On the ground floor is the Andalusia Tourism Office.
- The Diputacion de Sevilla – To the right of the tourism office, the building that looks like a castle began as the cavalry Barracks. Today it houses the offices of the Deputation of Seville, which provides public services to distant villages. You can access the Patio de Banderas (Courtyard of Flags), which was the parade ground for the cavalry.
- Puerta del Leon – Further to the right of the Diputacion, is the 12th-century “Lions” gate, an entrance to the Alcazar.
Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
On the east side of the Cathedral is this charming square with a fountain and baroque street lights. There has probably been a public meeting place here since the Phoenicians. One of the best photo angles for the La Giralda is at the far end of the plaza.
The Archbishop’s Palace.
With the Cathedral on your left, the red or pink building in front of you is the Palacio Arzobispal. It has been serving as the residence of the bishop and archbishop since the reconquest. The building you see today has been through numerous additions and remodels. Access is only via organized tours.
Ayuntamiento de Sevilla (City Hall)
Approximately six-minutes walk north from the Cathedral is the city hall. The original structure dates from 1521, although there have been numerous remodeling projects and additions since then. Behind it is the Plaza Nueva (new plaza.) The square’s old name was San Francisco. It was here that another dark part of Seville’s history took place. On January 6, 1481, the first Auto-de-fe of the Spanish inquisition took place. It was not the last one in this square.
The brotherhood dates back to 1456 when they would bury the dead. With funding, the monks can treat the sick and delay the burials. The Hospital building is in baroque style, dating from 1674. The charity still cares for the old and ill. You can visit the St. George’s chapel with an impressive collection of artworks by Murillo, Pedro Roldán, and Valdes Leal. Your admission helps fund the hospital.
Reales Atarazanas
Next to the hospital is the medieval royal shipyard of Seville. They were building and repairing boats here between the 13th and 15th centuries when the river was near. The structure is in the Gothic-Mudejar style. Unfortunately, circa 1641, they tear down a large portion to build the hospital. Later, it becomes an artillery warehouse until finally receiving national monument status in 1969. Finally, a much-needed restoration occurs, possibly due to it appearing in the television show, “Game of Thrones.” As of the summer of 2020, it was still not open to the public.
Plaza de toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla
This 12,000-capacity circular bullring dates from 1749, replacing a rectangular arena. Before the builders can finish it, Carlos III prohibits bullfighting celebrations circa 1786. Later, kings will reinstate it, and others will forbid it. The bullring goes into decline, then receives renovations, then declines, gets repairs… Currently, bullfighting is legal in Andalusia. The regular season goes from March or April until late September. People who do not like to see animal cruelty should not attend. The outcome is rarely different. Tours are available when there is not a fight taking place. The museum is fascinating.
Tablao Flamenco El Arenal
The world-famous flamenco dancer Curro Vélez, came home to Seville to open his restaurant and show. Since 1975, they have been presenting this Spanish treat, making it one of the oldest performances in town. If you want to experience Flamenco, I suggest reservations at any venue.
Plaza del Cabildo
A two-minute walk from the front door of the Cathedral is this picturesque half-moon plaza. The site is worth a minute of your time. This scene is old Seville.
Puerta Jerez Square
At one time, the city gate for the road to Jerez was on this site. The portal is no longer, due to expansion, but the area is still picturesque.
- Fuente de Híspalis – is a photographic fountain dating from the 1929 Exposition.
- Chapel of Santa María de Jesús – is all that remains of the first campus of the College-University. It dates from circa 1516.
- Palace of Yanduri – next to the chapel is this red with white accent 1904 home of the Marquises of Yanduri. Francisco Franco will “borrow it” for his residence during his 1936 visit. Today it is a bank.
- Guardiola House – on the south side, is the white with red accents mansion. The private home of the Guardiola family dates back to the mid-eighteen hundreds.
- Hotel Alfonso XIII – also a holdover from the 1929 Exposition, is a grand hotel in the regionalist style. A walk through the lobby to view the tile work is a treat.
Barrio de Santa Cruz
The Jewish neighborhood is near the Cathedral until the 1391 massacre.
Centro de Interpretación Judería de Sevilla
In the once Jewish Barrio of Santa Cruz, in a Sephardic house is a small but poignant museum. Telling the Jewish history of Seville, the museum includes historical happenings up until the massacre. The small collection of surviving artifacts contains documents, books, and costumes. The museum can pre-arrange walking tours of the remaining Jewish sites in English, Spanish or French.
Hospital los Venerables
The building, dating from 1697, is the second hospital run by the Brotherhood of Silence. It is more a retirement home than a hospital for the elderly, poor, and disabled priests. In 1840, it became a textile factory, when the brotherhood could no longer support it. Eight years later, a royal decree gave it back to the priests. Today, it is the Velázquez Centre, where you can tour the chapel and art galleries with a collection of modern and traditional works by Velázquez, Murillo, Zurbarán, and others.
Casa de Murillo
This historic house was the last home of the painter Bartolomé Esteban Murillo before his death in 1682. The galleries contain many works by the Baroque master.
Palacio de los marqueses de Salinas
Baltasar Jaén, the first owner, is making a fortune off the treasures coming from the new world. He builds this mansion, circa 1550, next to the other modern villas going up. Today, the 500-year-old house has interiors with a collection of more than 400 years of living. It is an excellent timeline of how Seville’s wealthy were living.
Jardines de Murillo
This 1911 public park is a gift to the people of the city. It is home to the Christopher Columbus Monument, a fountain with a pedestal and statue on top.
Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca
This building began as a mosque. In 1252 it became a synagogue, and after the 1391 massacre of the Jews, it became a Christian temple. After many refurbishments, it is still a church. It is worth a visit to see the intricate Baroque interiors.
Naval Museum Torre Del Oro
This museum is in a 13th-century defensive tower along the river, near what was the old port of Seville. The collection includes charts, old maps, nautical instruments, and more.
Royal Tobacco Factory
At the time of its construction in 1758, it was the second-largest building in Spain, behind the palace. It was the second tobacco factory in Europe, as Spain had a monopoly on new world tobacco. There were over 1000 men making snuff.
Later, when cigars became popular, there were an additional 700 men making cigars. The cigars were not pleasant, and this section halts production circa 1811. It reopens two years later with a female workforce, which it retains until the 1940s when machines replace the crew. It is here in 1820 that Georges Bizet’s Carmen sings “Habanera.”
Circa 1956, they move the cigar production to a smaller location. Bn 2007, Seville makes its last cigar. They use the original factory as the new home of the University of Seville.
San Telmo Palace
Between the Tobacco Factory and the river, this Baroque structure dates from 1682. At that time, the location was outside the city walls. It was a university for navigators for the first 150 years. Then it had several renters who could not afford the upkeep. Circa 1849, a French duke, buys it, but he does not fit in with the Spanish Court. They cede the palace to the local archdiocese, which makes it a seminary until 1989. Today, it is the seat of the presidency.
San Bartolomé
La Casa de Pilatos (Pilate’s House)
Dating from 1483, this palace, for the mayor of Andalucia, many consider the prototype of the Andalusian palace. The mayor’s son, a frequent visitor of Jerusalem, names it for Pilate. It is not a copy of Pilate’s house.
It has more than 140 azulejo tiles by the Pulido brothers, one of the world’s largest collections of these tiles.
You can tour the ground floor by yourself, while the upper level requires a guide. It is a location for several movies, including Lawrence of Arabia.
Acueducto Romano
Six-minutes walk east from the Casa de Pilatos is a small section of one of the city’s ancient Roman aqueducts. It consists of 5 arches and stretches approximately 50 feet. A slight detour between the casa and the Murillo Gardens, but not worth a trip on its own.
Macarena
Macarena is the traditional and historic area north of the Casco Antiguo. Today, the neighborhood is more on the north side of the city walls.
Hospital of the Five Holy Wounds (Hospital de las Cinco Llagas)
Upon completion in 1558, this was the largest building in Spain. It serves as a hospital until 1972. During the Great Plague of Seville (circa1650,) It was the plague hospital as it was outside the city walls. Close to 23,000 patients did not survive. Today, it is the current seat of the Parliament of Andalusia. Tours are available around the parliament schedule.
Torre de Perdigones
The 1885 tower was part of the San Francisco de Paula factory. The building serves as the gateway to Expo 92. Today, for a fee, you can climb the close to 150 feet for views over the city.
Distrito Sur
The South District is to the “south” of the Casco Antiguo and the east bank. It was the location of much of the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929.
Plaza de España
The centerpiece of the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929, today it houses many government offices. It also contains the Instituto Geografico Nacional and one museum.
- Museo Histórico Militar de Sevilla – The Military Historical Museum of Seville is just that. It includes models and artifacts from the Seville military over the years. Free of charge.
- Parque Prado de San Sebastián – Is the park north of the Plaza de Espana and east of the University. It does not contain any museums but is a lovely place to sit in the share and have a beverage. Check out the exterior architecture of the Consulate General Of Portugal in the northwest corner.
Parque de María Luisa.
Initially, these were the private gardens of the Palace of San Telmo. The city receives them in 1893 for use as a public park. They redesign parts of the park for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition. Adjacent to the Plaza de España, there are several smaller gardens, fountains, and statues.
- Costurero de la Reina – Legend (made up stuff we usually cannot prove) is this is the queen’s sewing room. Queen Maria, the wife of King Alfonso XII, would sew here in the sunlight due to her delicate health. It does not work, and by 1878, she is dead. The building dates from 1893. Time traveler or fake legend? In the 1800s, it is a watchtower for the guard. Today, it is an information office.
Plaza America
At the south end of the gardens is the Plaza de América, many parts also dating from the exposition.
- Archeological Museum of Seville – includes many artifacts from the nearby Roman city of Italica. It also holds the Treasure of El Carambolo, 21 pieces of gold jewelry, most dating from the 8th century B.C.
- Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions – includes lace, embroidery, furniture, tiles, ceramics, and more.
Isla de La Cartuja
On the west side of the canal, which used to be part of the river, is another should-see neighborhood.
Triana
Triana is in honor of the Roman Emperor Trajan, born in Italica, north of the city. Some call it the gypsy district, and It was the center of the ceramics industry. It is in the north half of Isla de La Cartuja, on the west side of the canal.
Pabellón de la Navegación
Between the river and the CaixaForum is this building from the Expo 92. Today, it is home to an interactive maritime museum about maritime navigation, exploration, and more.
CaixaForum Sevilla
This new cultural center dates from 2017 offering exhibits, family activities, workshops, concerts, and more. It is just behind the Pabellón de la Navegación.
Monastery of Santa Maria de las Cuevas
The structure begins as a monastery in the 1400s and lasts until the general closure of monasteries circa 1835. Christopher Columbus will pray here before his voyages. It then serves as a ceramics factory from 1841 until 1984. Today, it houses a university and the CAAC.
Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo (CAAC).
This contemporary art museum in the 600-year-old building offers a collection featuring new Andalusian artwork, exhibits, workshops, and concerts.
Castle of San Jorge
Standing on the southwest side of the Isabel II bridge, this medieval fortress was the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition. They tear most of it down circa 1823 to build the Mercado de Triana, still in operation.
Just off the bridge, down some steps is the Spanish inquisition Museum (Castillo De San Jorge.) This small museum in what’s left of the castle is quite impressive.
Centro Cerámica Triana
This small museum is in a former ceramic factory. Displays show you hand-painted tile, pottery, and kilns that they have refurbished. You can also see where tiles are around the city. The museum is behind the Mercado de Triana.
Real Parroquia de Señora Santa Ana
A six-minute walk south from the Mercado, through the older section of Triana, brings you to this church. Not another church. What makes this one unique is, it was never a mosque. They build it as a church, the first one in Seville after the reconquest.
Construction began in 1266 in the Gothic-Mudéjar style, and there have been several restorations since. There is a small museum in the admission price. Hours vary depending on services.
Los Remedios
This neighborhood, south of Triana, takes up the southern half of the island. Much of the western side is silt buildup and better for agriculture than building. The southern area includes the fairgrounds and new port area. There is not much for the traveler here.
Outside of Town
Monasterio de San Isidoro del Campo
This ex-Monastery, dating from 1301, has a few stories to tell. Beginning with the Cistercians, in 1432, the Hieronymite hermits take up residence. They would change the look and operation of the monastery. Circa 1590, King Philip II orders the merger of the congregation with the Order of Jerónima.
You can see remnants of all the residents, from austere colorful wall paintings.
Arqueológico de Itálica
The UNESCO site of The Hadrianic City of Italica is a twenty minutes drive northwest of Seville. The Roman general Scipio began the settlement circa 206 B.C. Roman Emperors Trajan and Hadrian (Adrianus) are born here. Hadrian will turn it into a Roman city during his reign. It never becomes as large as nearby Hispalis (Seville), and this is probably a blessing. Very little of Hispalis remains (above ground), whereas Italica is in remarkably good shape. The town of Santiponce covers much of the original city.
Old Italica
- Teatro Romano de Itálica – dates from circa 20 B.C. You can see into the theater through the metal fencing, but it is only open for performances and festivals.
Nova Urbs (new town)
There has never been another structure on top of this area. Much of this area dates from circa 100 A.D. during Hadrian’s rule.
The Amphitheater – is straight ahead as you enter. At the time of its building, it is the third-largest in the Roman Empire. There is plenty of space for the 8,000 residents as the stadium holds 25,000 people. Did Hadrian have big plans for the city? The lake behind the arena was the water source, a cistern for the town.
Walking south from the theater is the remains of the elite neighborhood. Few walls are standing, and a few more foundations, so how do we know this is an affluent neighborhood? Mosaic floors. Sitting out in the middle of this site are some beautiful mosaics, much the way they were 2000 years ago.
Also, the houses are large, around a middle courtyard. The middle-class houses would much smaller, and the “homes” for the slaves more like cells.
As you first enter the residential area, look at the street. Sections of the original stones and gutters are still visible.
The Houses
As you walk from the theater, you will come to the following “houses” (floors) on your left: Many of the houses have several mosaics, their name coming from the most important mosaic.
- The House of the Exedra is in the second block. It has some of the features of a house, but it takes up most of the space. It may have been a school with the teacher’s home in back.
- House of the Neptune Mosaic is in the next (3rd) block. This black and white mosaic includes Neptune and marine creatures.
- The House of the Planetarium is across the street (the only one on your right) from the Neptune house. Some say it is a weekly calendar, not the planets.
- Termas Mayores – the large bath, is two blocks west of the House of Planetarium. You can make out some of the different rooms or pools.
- The House of the Birds is in the next block and is closest to the street you are on. It has 35 mini pictures.
- House of the Rhodian Patio is in the same block, behind the House of Birds. It has several levels (patios.)
- The House of The abduction of Hylas is the last house before coming to a wall in the middle of the site. What is this wall? In a perfect example of “they just build on top of the old,” here is a cemetery from the 1900s?
- The Traianeum – is to the right, and then left behind the cemetery. It was an impressive temple sitting at the highest point of the city.
You will see the random pillar here and there or partial statue. Unfortunately, most of the city became building material elsewhere. The amphitheater and the mosaics are the highlights.
Carmona is another exciting town 30 minutes drive from Italica to the east. Pieces of the Roman city are here and there. Moorish architecture is everywhere.
Further Afield
La Rábida and Huelva
Just over an hour’s drive west, are these port cities at the mouth of the Odiel and Tinto rivers. La Rábida has several sites that tie in with Seville. From the now buried Palos de la Frontera, in 1492, Columbus set sail on the ocean blue. You can see the excavation of the old port from the car park along Calle Vicente Yáñez Pinzón. It was not open to the public.
Muelle de las Carabelas
The Wharf of the Caravels is home to three replicas of the Niña, the Pinta, and the Santa María. The 70 foot, life-size models give you an idea of the conditions for the 29 sailors on each ship. The museum has a visitor center, and the dock area is a recreation of a medieval quarter. There is a simulation of Guanahani, Christopher Columbus’s first landfall in the new world, and now part of San Salvador.
La Rabida Monastery
This white-washed structure is a Franciscan monastery dating from the 13th-century. It is here where Christopher Columbus would pray to the image of Santa María de la Rábida, Lady of Miracles.
Monumento a los Descubridores
The Monument to the Discoverers is adjacent to the entrance drive to the monastery.
Huelva
As you cross the bridge, the 120-foot statue on your left, Monumento a la Fe Descubridora, is not Columbus. It is a friar symbolizing the faith that guides the discoverers.
Santuario de Nuestra Señora de la Cinta chapel.
This white chapel from the 1400s used to sit on a hill outside of town. Now the city surrounds it. Chris Columbus prays here before his voyage, promising to return if the saint brings him back.
Neibla
On your way to or from Huelva, take the five-minute detour to Niebla, although it has no ties to Columbus.
Castillo de Niebla
Here you can visit the 15th-century medieval castle, the cavalry grounds, and the museum of arms. You can also visit the dungeons and view the walls dating from Arabic times.
Roman Bridge
Dating from before the Arabics, just north of town, the road crosses the Rio Tinto. Stop and look at the bridge from either side. It incorporates a Roman bridge still in use.
Seville Summary
Is this everything to see and do in Seville? Hardly. But this will undoubtedly help you immerse yourself in the destination.
What else do you know about Seville? It is the home of Don Miguel de Mañara. He is the aristocrat that inspires the legend of Don Juan.
We know the opera Carmen takes place in Seville. Also Rossini’s The Barber of Seville, Beethoven’s Fidelio, Mozart’s Don Giovanni, The Marriage of Figaro, and others.
Movie fans may recognize the Plaza de España in Star Wars: Attack of the Clones, or Lawrence of Arabia.
Television fans may recognize the Alcázar, the boatyard, and other sites as the cities of Dorne in Game of Thrones. And who can forget the Rabbit of Seville?
I usually spend two nights, giving me approximately two full days to explore. I try to do one neighborhood at a time, and this still never seems like enough time.
Then there is the Andalusian cuisine to sample. And what about the local wine?
Day Trips
Then there are many day trips further than Huelva.
Cordoba is 90 minutes drive to the northeast.
Rhonda and its famous bridge are less than two hours each way.
If you are heading that way, also check out the white village (Pueblos Blancos) of Setenil de las Bodegas.
The views from the Tower of Tribute in Zahara de la Sierra are incredible. But they are beautiful from the car park for the castle as well.
Views from the castle in Arcos de la Frontera are breath-taking and less physical to reach.
Add Grazalema for a full day of white villages.
After reading this, I hope you want to give Seville more than a few short hours.