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Table of Contents: 
SEE GRANADA’S ALHAMBRA.
REALEJO
ALBAICIN.
FURTHER AFIELD.

See Granada, and see that it is far from being a one site destination.

With a history that proceeds the Romans and cuisine that defies expectation, you should not only see Granada but taste it.

Some try to power through on a day trip from the port of Malaga, 90+ minutes to the southwest. As with many big-bus trips, you get a little taste of several things (buffet), but nothing you can savor.

Come, let’s see Granada, and give it the time it deserves. You will understand why a few hours is not enough time to experience Granada.

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See Granada’s Alhambra

Granada has three.UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Two cover Alhambra hill, and the third includes much of the town. The rest of the town includes Moorish, Renaissance, and Baroque buildings and is worth seeing.

Alhambra

The UNESCO World Heritage Site Alhambra, Generalife, and Albayzín, Granada

The Alhambra is somewhat confusing. Like the Acropolis in Athens or the Forum in Rome, the Alhambra is an area with several sites within.

The Alcazaba – is the oldest residential part of the Alhambra. It becomes part of the defense when they finish the palaces.

The Towers – are part of the complex but separate from the palaces.

Generalife – is a residential summer palace for escaping the official working palace.

Charles V Palace – is a lavish palace for the Christian monarchs, which they never finish.

See Granada’s Alcazaba

Moorish structures date to the 9th century A.D., although there were other structures there prior. The current structures date from circa 1250 A.D.

There are numerous towers, Torre de la Vela (watch), Torre del Homenaje (keep), Torre Quebrada (broken), to name a few. That is why the fortress remains part of the defenses when building new palaces further up the hill.

Arms Square

Plaza de Armas is the original entrance to the Alcazaba. Here are the remains of storerooms, a cistern, bath, Arab houses, and a dungeon.

Ismail I of Granada, the fifth Nasrid ruler, built a new palace during his rule circa 1300. Less than 50 years later, Yusuf I of Granada tears 90% of it down to build a larger palace. Over the years, other Emirs add additional palaces, halls, and gardens.

Cuarto o Palacio de Comares (Comares Palace).

The first of the palaces, very little of the original remains as later kings would tear down and replace. Much of the section dates from the early 1300s, with numerous refurbishments.

The Mexuar.

The only original part of the first palace remaining, numerous restorations leave nothing of the original design.

Cuarto Dorado (The Gilded Room.)

The room and adjoining patio connect the first palace to the Comares Palace. The name refers to the ceiling’s Mudejar style of decoration.

Patio de los Arrayanes (Court of the Myrtles.)

This courtyard sits between the Torre de Comares, the Patio of the Lions, and the Baths.

Baraka is Arabic for blessing, which is in the inscriptions on the walls. Over the years, lazy translation replaces Baraka with Barca, Spanish for a boat. The hall has nothing to do with boats.

 

Salon de los Embajadore (Hall of the Ambassadors)

This is the most decorated hall of the palace as it is the throne room. This room was to display the wealth and power of the Emir during official receptions. During the Catholic Monarchs period, one of their first orders of business was to fund Christopher Columbus (1492.)

Palacio de los Leones (Palace of the Lions)

The gift of Mohammed V  circa 1360, it is his legacy to the Alhambra. It becomes the private chambers of the royal family. Architects praise it for its use of light, water, colors, and exquisite decoration.

Sala de los Reyes (Hall of the Kings.)

The painting on the central dome, of most of Granada’s Emirs, gives the room its name. However, the painting has more Christian than Arabic features.

Sala de Dos Hermanas (Hall of the Two Sisters.)

The name has nothing to do with siblings. It refers to the two twin marble flagstones on the floor. This hall was part of the sultana’s (favorite wife) residence for her and her family.

Mirador de Daraxa.

Mirador means the overlook. This “sun porch” is in excellent shape, minus the floor. Look up. For a small room,

 

Patio de los Leones (Patio of the Lion)

Expect lots of people taking selfies. The patio leading to the Palace of the Lions is popular. Twelve lions support a large basin of water on their backs while spitting water into the fountain below.

The Towers.

For those missing their step class, you can spend the better part of a few hours visiting the towers, several you can climb (no elevators.)

Torre de los Picos (Tower of the Points)

This 13th- century tower has pointy merlons (caps) giving it its name. It was guarding the path to the Generalife Palace.

Torre de la Infantas (Tower of the Princesses.)

Circa 1830, Washington Irving writes Tales of the Alhambra, which includes a story of three princesses. And the tower has a new name.

There are more towers and four interesting gates worth seeing as well. Check out the Puerta de la Justicia, Puerta de las Granadas, Puerta del Vino, and Puerta de las Armas.

Are you starting to realize the Alhambra needs a full day just to scratch the surface?

See Granada’s Generalife (Garden of the Architect.)

The home of an architect, Muhammed II, “acquires” the land circa 1290 to create a summer palace and country estate for himself.

More and more decoration disappears with each century and not by destruction but by slowly disappearing under layers of plaster and whitewash until no details remain.

Jardines del Generalife

The hanging (terraced) gardens are lovely to walk through.

Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Water Channel or Water-Garden)

Today, there is a long pool with flowerbeds, fountains, and colonnades surrounding it. These gardens are probably a 1930s attempt to present the style of the medieval Persian garden.

Ciprés de la Sultana (Cypress of the Sultana)

This may be my favorite area as the mobs have never been here when I am. Also, part of the 1930s update, it just feels a little more authentic to me.

Special Mention.

Castillo de Santa Elena (La Silla del Moro)

Directly uphill from the Generalife is a 13th-century fortress that was part of the Alhambra defenses. Its main responsibility was to protect and control the Alhambra water source coming from a palace further up the hill. Most of the castle structure is gone, but the terraces remaining offer an incredible view or camera angles on the Alhambra.

Charles V Palace

After the Catholic Monarchs overthrow the city in 1492, they immediately make some changes to the palace. By 1527, Charles V,  the Holy Roman Emperor, feels it is too small and not grand enough for his lifestyle.

He commissions a lavish Renaissance palace right in between the Alcazaba and the Comares Palace.

The building will hit construction and financial bumps along the way. By 1530, when he adds King of Italy to his resume, he loses interest in the project. They never finish the palace.

Today, the palace is home to the Museum of the Alhambra on the ground floor. Besides items from the Alhambra, it has an incredible collection of Nasrid Art.

On the upper floor of the palace is the Granada Museum of Fine Arts. It includes a nice section to the hometown painter and sculptor, Alonso Cano.

The Alhambra area alone can fill up the better part of a day. Toss in the steps (it’s on a hill), and most people are ready to sit down at the tour’s end.

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See Granada’s Realejo.

The Realejo includes the Alhambra.

The rest of the Realejo stretches from the Alhambra southwest to the Genil River. On the northwest side of the Alhambra, it stretches down to the Darro River.

The Darro flows under Calle Reyes Catolicos when it reaches town.

Plaza Isabel La Catolica

Were the major streets Calle Reyes Católicos and Calle Gran Vía de Colón meet is this plaza.  The bronze statue depicts Queen Isabel permitting Christopher Columbus to mount an expedition to India going west.

I think this is a great starting point for the Realejo exploring. One section stretches east (Darro River), the other south.

Corral del Carbón

Going west on Calle Reyes Católicos, turn left at the first pedestrian passage. In front of you, a half-block is the Moorish arch entrance to the Corral. Dating from the 14th-century, it is the only known Nasrid alhóndiga (grain house) left in the Iberian Peninsula. Later, it will serve as an inn. You can walk into the courtyard, but the interior of the building contains private offices.

House of los Tiros

On the north end of the Plaza de Padre Suarez is a building looking like part of a fort. This from it being part of the defensive wall around the Los Alfareros neighborhood, circa 1540. Today, the Casa de Tiros Museum holds drawings, paintings, lithographs, and historic objects telling Granada’s history from the 1600s.

To the north (right of the church) is the circa 1501 Convent of the Comendadoras de Santiago. The convent is a stop on the Camino Mozárabe, the pilgrimage path from southern Spain to Santiago de Compostela.

Carmen de los Martires

Queen Isabel builds a hermitage on this spot circa 1573. Her grandson gives it to the church, which converts it to a convent. An 1842 fire destroys the convent.  Today, the British and French gardens remain, offering a free place to relax and see excellent views of the city.

Manuel de Falla House Museum

A two-minutes walk from the gardens is the gate to this museum. This was the house of the Spanish composer from 1921 until the beginning of the Spanish Civil War. Leaving in a hurry, many of his personal belongings are now on display. Much of his art is now in the concert hall next door, bearing his name.

Carmen de la Fundación Rodríguez Acosta.

The 1920s house and gardens belong to artist  Jose María Rodríguez-Acosta. In addition to works by several family members, there are exotic pieces brought back from world traveling.

Torres Bermejas Castle

Three towers remain from this 9th-century fortress less than two minutes walk west of the Fundacion. It offers a unique perspective of the original Alhambra fortress.

Nearby, are the massive gates, Puerta de las Granadas, leading to the Alhambra.

Adjacent is the Palacio de los Marqueses de Cartagena, originally the home of the Marquis of Cartagena. 

Depending on your level of interest and energy level, this area could take the better part of a day (5-6 hours.) So to see Granada, you need at least two days. But we are not done yet.

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See Granada’s Albaicin (Albayzín.)

Besides the Alhambra and Generalife, Granada has a third UNESCO World Heritage site, the Albaicin.

Like the Alhambra, the Albaicin is an area full of little treasures.

Officially, the area contains the Alhambra, the Realejo (former Jewish quarter), and the Centro (Arrabal de Bib–Arrambla) part of the city.

Granada’s 1518 A.D. cathedral sits on the previous Nasrid Great Mosque of Granada in the center of the former Muslim Medina. It is one of many great structures built during the reign of Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor.

The church is Gothic in design with an edge of the Renaissance. The Baroque features are from the 1600s.

Granada’s Royal Chapel

Beginning as a side chapel to the cathedral, the Royal Chapel began construction under Ferdinand in 1505. The site, on the south side of the cathedral, was the terraces of the Grande mosque.

Charles V will take over the completion after the 1514 death of Ferdinand. In 1517, both monarchs arrived at the new chapel. Their daughter, Joanna of Castile, and her husband Felipe I are also there.

Palacio de la Madraza (Madrasah)

Plaza de Bib-Rambla

With your back to the cathedral’s main door, cross the plaza in front of you, exiting in the far left corner. One block brings you to the plaza. Today, many call it the Plaza of Flowers, and it features the Fuente de los Gigantes, a large 17th-century fountain with Neptune.

It began as the mercantile (bazaar) during the Muslim period. When the Catholic Monarchs take over, the square hosts jousts, processions, and Isabella’s autos de fe to purge non-Catholics.

Today, this area is the Alcaicería, and there are still narrow streets with shops leading off in each direction.

See Granada’s Lower Albaicin

The Albaicín section stretches east from the Gran Via del Colon and north of the Darro River. Many mistakenly refer to this area as Sacromonte, which is actually one more hill east.

Officially, the north side of the river is Albaicin, while the south shore is in the Realejo. As you would probably visit them together, I am lumping them together in this section.

Plaza Nueva

Three short blocks from Plaza Isabel is this plaza that was new circa 1500 when they cover the Darro to create more space. Today, there are numerous cafes, but originally it would host bullfights and public executions.

Real Chancillería (Royal Chancellery.)

This imposing building from circa 1530 was built by Philip II (Charles son) in Renaissance style. The crown holds various courts from the Royal Chancellery, not just local but for all of Andalusia. How convenient to have a plaza for executions just out front. By the 17th century, they add a prison for overflow.

Iglesia de San Gil y Santa Ana.

This church, standing at the east end of the square, dates from 1537, and a bell tower circa 1561. The ornate sculpture over the entrance gives a clue as to what awaits inside. There is sculptural work on many of the columns and works by many great Spanish artists. Make sure to look up and admire the Mudejar (partly Gothic, partly Islamic) coffered ceilings. 

The “split” between the two neighborhoods becomes more obvious beyond the church. Calle Sta. Ana, to the right of the church as you face it, runs along the Realejo side.

To the left is Carrera del Darro, on the Albaicín side. It is the more scenic street and a favorite walk of mine in the early morning.

Palacio de los Olvidados.

The palace is from the 16th century and reflects several restorations. Today, it houses the Museum of the Inquisition. The collection includes numerous instruments of torture and capital punishment used by the inquisitorial courts. These were both civil and ecclesiastical courts, although the results were often the same if you were not born Catholic.

Convento de Santa Catalina de Zafra (Dominicas)

One block further, on your left, is this imposing convent building from circa 1540. Moorish houses in the area became part of the building materials mixing with the Renaissance style. The Baroque decorations date from circa 1678 after a fire destroys many areas.

Casa de Castril

The very next building is Castril Palace. This 1539 Renaissance palace was originally the home of Hernando de Zafra, secretary of Catholic monarchs, responsible for the convent next door. Today, it houses the Archeological and Ethnographic Museum of Granada. 

Paseo de los Tristes.

This scenic plaza features a 1609 fountain that was built for this location and is still there. It also offers great views of the Alhambra’s Torre de Comares directly above the river’s other side. Carrera de Dario becomes Paseo de los Tristes from here on.

Puente del Aljibillo

Just beyond the Paseo de los Tristes is this bridge. The buildings on the other side, some of which may be older than the United States, are not of important historical value. However, as soon as you cross the river, look up to your right.

See Granada’s Upper Albaicin

The streets here are just as curvy; some are only for pedestrians, and others are actually a staircase.

Mirador de San Cristobal.

Offering a scenic view of Granada’s city, you can get a feel for where you are heading. There is a great view of the walls of the Palacio de Dar al-Horra.

Palace of Dar al-Horra

This 15th-century Nasrid palace sits on an earlier Zirid palace’s remains dating back to the 11th century. This was the residence of Queen Aisha, whose son Boabdil would take the Christian slave Isabel de Solís as his consort.

Hernando de Zafra would later use part of the palace for the Monastery of Santa Isabel la Real, still in use on the south side. The remaining two-story palace includes a tower, a central courtyard with a pool, and some original decorations. 

 

Iglesia de San Nicolás

The simple 1525 church takes a backseat to the views from its terrace (mirador) lookout and the 1543 bell tower. Unfortunately, in 2005, part of the roof fell in closing the church. As of 2020, the church structure was still not open. From the terrace, there is the Kodak moment of the Alhambra.

The Mosque of Granada

Casa del Chapiz.

This Moorish house is actually two houses, each with a courtyard. Lorenzo el Chipiz, a convert to Christianity, builds the larger house circa 1500, over a 14th century Nasrid Palace. The smaller house to the north is for his father in law several years later.

In 1932 the house became the Escuela de Estudios Arabes (School for Arab Studies.). The garden and courtyards are open to the public. The interiors are classrooms and offices of the school and are not open for touring.

See Granada’s Sacromonte (Sacral Mount)

Officially, the Sacromonte neighborhood is further east of what we have been talking about so far. Many people confuse the Upper Albaicin as Sacromonte. The hill east of the Casa del Chapiz and Palacio de los Cordova is the Sacral Mount.

Abbey of Sacromonte.

Outside of restaurants and Flamenco shows, this is the only place to visit in Sacromonte. This 17th-century abbey includes underground chapels and catacombs, which you can see on guided tours.

There is also a college dating back to the 17th-century and a seminary on property. The views down the valley are nice.

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See Granada to the North

Monasterio de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (Granada Charterhouse)

Construction began circa 1516 and would last three hundred years. The outside gives you no warning of the flamboyant explosion of ornamentation inside. The dome, sacristy, and tabernacle are all masterpieces.

Nearby is the bullfighting rink of Granada. Dating from 1927, the rink is one of Spain’s larger buildings, although bullfighting is not as popular here as in other cities. The venue can hold 12,000 spectators, and they use it for other performances besides bullfights.

Basilica of San Juan de Dios

Dating from circa 1759, this Baroque Basilica is the final resting place for Granada’s patron saint. The interior does not have one inch of floor, wall, or ceiling that isn’t full of color. Marble and gold are everywhere, with silver trying to keep up.   

Monasterio de San Jerónimo, Granada

This monastery was also one of the Catholic monarchs’ grand works. The monastery has two cloisters and Renaissance interiors with rich decorations. During the French occupation, they destroy the tower—the current tower dates from 1989.

See Granada to the South.

The southern part of the city is new in comparison to most of the other areas. There is one pavilion remaining of a 13th-century Moorish palace (Alcázar Genil), but everything else is less than 100 years old.

There are several modern attractions, but they have little to do with Granada’s history. These include the Biodomo Granada, which is part of the Park of Sciences. They offer several activities for the brain on palace overload.

Read more about Granada.

See Granada Summary

As you can see, Granada could easily fill up three days of exploring. It offers more than just the Alhambra.

Make sure to leave plenty of time to explore the other neighborhoods and museums.

And make sure to sample the local cuisine and wine.

Come, see Granada and discover for yourself.

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