NOT SO ANCIENT
GRANADA TODAY
ALHAMBRA
REALEJO
ALBAICIN
FURTHER OUT
Just about everyone on my group’s to Granada come back glowing. But after figuring in the over three-hour round-trip from the port of Malaga, it does not leave too much time for actually exploring. The places they need to visit become a dash and other fascinating points are lucky to be photo stops. It is like getting one bite from the whole cake.
It is much better than nothing. I call cruise ships the travel buffet: A little taste of this country, and a little taste of that one. You can always go back for more later.
When it comes to the areas further from the port, Berlin, Paris, Florence, Rome, Cairo, it is more one lick than one bite.
Granada is more than just the Alhambra, and it needs more than a few hours.
Ancient History.
If you ask anyone in Spain, who was here first, they say the Spanish or maybe the Gauls. Ask an Italian, and they tell you it is the Romans.
Who were the first people to live in present-day Granada is unclear. Although the Phoenicians (Greeks) are the first to Southern France and Italy, and even nearby Cadiz, maybe not to Granada.
Iberians, with relics dating back to 5500 B.C., were already here.
There is evidence of the Phoenicians dealing with them from 1100 B.C. The Iberians were definitely in the area of Malaga for the Phoenician’s 850 B.C. founding of Malaka (Malaga).
The Phoenicians introduce iron tools, pottery wheels, and how to produce olive oil and wine. The Iberian coast becomes a major commercial trading area.
The Carthaginians attack circa 550 B.C., taking the area for themselves.
No relics are indicating the Greeks or Carthaginians ever make it inland to Ihverir (Granada).
Roman Granada.
The Battle of Ilipa during the Second Punic War (circa 206 B.C.) ends with the Roman general Scipio defeating the Carthaginians and claiming the area for Rome. The Romans will hold on to the city for around 900 years.
Ihverir (Ilturir) becomes Municipium Florentinum Iliberitanum (city of the Flowers) to the Romans. They create one of the major markets and industrial centers of Hispania.
Not So Ancient.
Circa 5th-century A.D., along come the Vandals, Suebi, and Visigoths, Germanic people from the north. They will hold onto the area for approximately 300 years.
Rise of the Caliphate.
With Muhammad’s death in 632 A.D., the Islams set up an Islamic state they call a caliphate. The first is Rashidun, and they choose, through Islamic democracy, four Caliphs to run it.
The area stretches from today’s Iran to the Mediterranian coast of Lybia. It includes Iraq, Syra, Lebanon, Israel, Saudia Arabia, Oman, Yemen, and northern Egypt.
They almost immediately disagree. By 661, after a revolt, a few assassinations, they are in the First Muslim Civil War. Out of this comes the second caliphate, the Umayyad.
The Umayyads rule from Damascus and grow the empire into one of the largest in history. They add Pakistan, Afganistan, Turkmenistan, and North Africa to the Atlantic.
Trouble From the South.
Circa 712 A.D., they cross into Southern Spain. In less than forty years, they will control Portugal and Spain except for three kingdoms in the northwest. They set up a sub-capital in Cordoba. The rename Spain Al-Andalus.
A group from Syria, acting as a “clean up” team fighting behind the main army, finally arrives in Cordoba.
However, they arrive after the dividing of the spoils. The Cordovan authorities give them a little outpost in the foothills, too far to be of any significance. The Syrians are not happy, but they take it.
They rename Ihverir as Elvira and restore the town upon the Roman ruins. The separate walled Jewish neighborhood on the hill outside town they name Albaicin.
The Reconquista.
The reconquest of Spain and Portugal from the Moors began almost the same time the Moors began invading.
The Battle of Covadonga (circa 722) is the first Christian victory against the Arabs.
The entire Reconquista will take approximately 780 years.
The Kingdoms of Asturias and Galicia.
The Berbers, North African soldiers under Arab control, revolt in 740 and desert the forts of northern Spain. Alfonso I, king of Asturias, grabs the empty forts and, in no time, overthrows Galicia and Leon.
He creates a barren no-mans-land between his kingdom and the Arabs, slowing their growth to the north.
The Fall of Elvira.
Circa 1010, Arabic troops (fighting amongst themselves) sack Elvira. The survivors take refuge up the hill in the Albaicin.
Zawi ben Ziri comes along three years later and picks up the pieces. He forms an independent kingdom and has his fort built upon the Jewish ghetto on the hill. They rename the town Garnata.
The Ziri dynasty will reign until 1238.
Muhammad Ibn Yusuf Ibn Nasr conquers Garnata and begins his own dynasty, the Nasrid.
He renovates the fortress, more as a palace, with many intricate details.
Granada becomes an important city of Al_Andalus.
Each Emirate of Granada will add to the palace. Yusuf I, Sultan of Granada in 1333, makes the Alhambra a royal palace.
The Rest of Andalusia
Perhaps due to its location in the foothills, Garnata (Granada) is not in the middle of the mess going on around it.
The Berbers are fighting the Moors. Christians are battling Christians for power.
With Cordoba at the center of the Al-Andalus empire, anything along the Guadalquivir River is of importance. But far to the southeast, Granada is not part of that target.
The Christians are in Toledo, hundreds of miles to the north.
The Nasrid secret is they purchase protection from the Kingdom of Castile with gold they import from Africa. They also provide military assistance against other Muslim areas, including the 1248 takeover of Seville.
The Nasrid Dynasty will rule until the Christian kingdoms finally overthrew it in 1492.
The Kingdom of Granada.
As the last Islamic Emirate in Europe, it was bound to happen. In 1482, Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile turn their eyes and forces on Granada. Grenada defends itself for nine years but finally surrenders. The Muslim Period in Spain comes to an end after only 750+ years.
Part of the treaty is that the Muslims and Jews of Granada will practice their faith and customs. That lasts about seven years.
The Catholics begin forcing baptisms on the Muslims and Jews, who, surprise, revolt.
Surprise, Ferdinand, and Isabella rescind the treaty and say the non-Catholics must convert or desert.
The Granada Christians are not too Christianly.
The first Auto de Fé, public displays of penance, takes place in Seville in 1481. They burn six people alive in the plaza de San Francisco for the crowd’s amusement.
So Granada’s fall is from the frying pan into the fire.
The inquisition will go on for three hundred years in various forms. The death count ranges from 3,000 to 300,000.
What a day for an Auto de Fé.
Granada in the 1500s.
Circa 1492, with Granada’s fall, Ferdinand and Isabella move into the Alhambra, making it the base of their court.
Upon arrival, they give Christopher Columbus a book of traveler’s checks and send him off on the ocean blue.
They immediately go about enlarging the palace and adding Renaissance features.
The wealthy Moors do not need glasses to read the writing on the walls. Many migrate to Northern Africa as the city’s mosques become Catholic churches or are destroyed.
The Royals clear the Jewish quarter (ghetto) to make way for new Catholic and Castilian institutions such as the Cabildo Cathedral, the Royal Chancellery, and the office of the Captaincy–General.
Isabella dies in 1504 and Ferdinand 12 years later. Their grandson Charles takes over and builds a new palace on the Alhambra hill.
As he takes on more titles, including Holy Roman Emperor, he begins ruling from Castile allowing the city to rule itself.
The Gold Begins to Tarnish.
By the late 16th century, the Dutch, British, French, and others have colonies in the Americas. They no longer rely on Spain for everything.
The colonies can produce many of their needs reducing the need for imports from Spain.
Circa 1649, The Great Plague arrives on ships.
Twenty-five years later, another plague, in hand with poor harvests, knocks out another chunk of the population.
Granada manages to support itself through the 1700s as it grows less important to the declining Spanish Crown.
The Guy with the Napoleon Complex.
In 1803, Napoleon began his conquest of Europe. By 1807, he is in Spain. The Peninsular War between Napoleon’s empire and Bourbon Spain affects all of Spain. The Spanish fight back but are no match.
When troops from Britain, Spain, and Portugal begin arriving through Spanish ports, the tide starts to turn. However, this leads to many battles in these towns.
Granada, although not a port town, does not escape without damage.
Napoleonic troops fire on the palace in a sign of retaliation.
It will not be until 1814 that the French finally retreat.
Spain goes through a slow period of rebuilding while the nobles fight over control.
The industrial age arrives in Spain.
Granada, already self-sufficient, rebounds a little faster. Traveling Europeans discover the Alhambra, putting Granada on travel maps.
Post Napoleon Renaissance.
Granada continues to support itself. During the reign of Queen Isabel II (circa 1843–1868), the local bourgeoisie fund some new construction.
Circa 1874. railway construction connects Granada with the outside world. Tourism continues to grow. Circa 1900, approximately 18,000 people are visiting Granada a year. A Duke builds a grand hotel with a casino. The famous across Europe begin to visit. The future looks great.
Spanish Civil War.
By 1936, two distinct camps are fighting for control of Spain. On one side are the Republicans, loyal to the currently-elected, left-leaning Second Spanish Republic.
On the other side are the Nationalists, who wish to rule under Falangism. Like Socialism, it believes in the need for total authority, hierarchy, and order over society. One of their leaders is General Francisco Franco, who moves up quickly through the ranks.
In July of 1936, the Nationalists force the women and children of the Albacin quarter into temporary concentration camps outside of town. The local men must stay in the quarter, which the Nationalist them bombard, killing the men and destroying the quarter. They take complete control of the town.
By 1939, the Nationalists win the war. They will rule Spain until Franco’s death in November 1975. As of the last report, Francisco Franco is still dead.
Granada Today.
Franco’s death in 1975 brings on a period of democratization throughout Spain.
Spain becomes part of the European community by 1986.
Granada has newer highways, high-speed train connections with Malaga and Cordoba, and an airport with domestic flights.
Granada is the capital of the province of Granada. It is a predominantly agricultural economy, producing cereals, sugarcane, and tobacco. Olives, oranges, lemons, figs, almonds, and pomegranates are more for local consumption. There is also a growing wine industry.
The town also has manufacturing while hospitality and tourism are growing.
Granada is the capital of the Granada province of Andalusia.
What is in Granada for me?
See & Hear.
Visit several of the city’s UNESCO World Heritage sites and explore.
Sit in one of the squares and watch and listen to the world passing or listen to Spanish folkloric music.
Taste & Smell.
Use your nose to find the bakeries and cheese shops hidden in the different quarters.
Sample local tapas as you stroll from bar to bar.
Feel.
Whether you are walking, sitting, or exploring, you can just feel the centuries of history.
Sip sangria on a terrace in Spain and watch people pass. Think back over the fascinating architecture, a mixture of Moorish, Romantic, Gothic, and more.
There may be better ways to end your afternoon, but this one doesn’t suck.
Should See Granada
Usually, when a destination has one UNESCO World Heritage Site, you know it should be on your list. Granada has three. The rest of the town includes Moorish, Renaissance, and Baroque buildings.
Alhambra
Let’s start with the obvious, the UNESCO World Heritage Site Alhambra, Generalife, and Albayzín, Granada
The Alhambra is somewhat confusing. Like the Acropolis in Athens or the Forum in Rome, the Alhambra is an area with several sites within.
The Alcazaba – is the oldest residential part of the Alhambra. It becomes part of the defense when they finish the palaces.
Nasrid Palaces – are the original residences of the Moorish Emirs.
The Towers – are part of the complex but separate from the palaces.
Generalife – is a residential summer palace for escaping the official working palace.
Charles V Palace – is a lavish palace for the Christian monarchs which they never finish.
The Alcazaba
Sitting on the western point of the hill is the oldest part of the Alhambra. Moorish structures date to the 9th century A.D., although there were other structures there prior. The current structures date from circa 1250 A.D.
There are numerous towers, Torre de la Vela (watch), Torre del Homenaje (keep), Torre Quebrada (broken), to name a few. That is why the fortress remains part of the defenses when building new palaces further up the hill.
Some of the towers are accessible for views of the city.
Arms Square
Plaza de Armas is the original entrance to the Alcazaba. Here are the remains of storerooms, a cistern, bath, Arab houses, and a dungeon.
The Garden of the Ramparts (Jardines de los Adarves)
Near the entrance of the Alcazaba, day-trippers rarely see these. The name comes from its location under the fortress ramparts. They offer great views of the city.
Ismail I of Granada, the fifth Nasrid ruler, built a new palace during his rule circa 1300. Less than 50 years later, Yusuf I of Granada tears 90% of it down to build a larger palace. Over the years, other Emirs add additional palaces, halls, and gardens.
Decorations.
Muslim art does not allow the use of living figures with eyes. Plants are O.K. but, humans, animals, and even Mohammad are not. Also, with architecture, they must cover every inch it seems.
Classical calligraphy inscriptions include Zawi ben Ziri (first Nasrid Emir): “Only God is Victor,” and poems by different court poets.
Mocarabe (Muqarnas) – is a form of ornamental vaulting some people call “honeycomb vaulting.” It hangs from the undersides of domes, cornices, vaults, or arches.
Scallops will also come into play.
Think of the decoration as decorating needlepoint. The detail is unbelievable. And as if that’s not enough, many arches in the middle of rooms are merely decorative, requiring more decoration.
Cuarto o Palacio de Comares (Comares Palace).
The first of the palaces, very little of the original remains as later kings would tear down and replace. Much of the section dates from the early 1300s, with numerous refurbishments.
The Mexuar.
The only original part of the first palace remaining, numerous restorations leave nothing of the original design. The king possibly used the room for meetings with his council. The choir loft dates to circa 1632. The Oratory is at the back.
Cuarto Dorado (The Gilded Room.)
The room and adjoining patio connect the first palace to the Comares Palace. The name refers to the ceiling’s Mudejar style of decoration.
Patio de los Arrayanes (Court of the Myrtles.)
This courtyard sits between the Torre de Comares, the Patio of the Lions, and the Baths. Besides being decorative, they say the water would help cool the breeze passing through the palace. I have never found that to be true.
El Baño de Comares (Royal baths.)
Each palace had a bath complex at some point due to the importance of health and cleansing of the soul. The Comares Palace bathhouse is today, the only known intact medieval Islamic bath in the western world. Unfortunately, it is rarely open to the public anymore for this reason. The entrance is in the eastern wall of the Court of the Myrtles.
Comares Tower
At almost 150 feet tall, this is the highest tower in the Alhambra. Beneath it are several halls
Sala de la Barca (Baraka) (Hall of the Blessings)
Salon de los Embajadore (Hall of the Ambassadors)
This is the most decorated hall of the palace as it is the throne room. This room was to display the wealth and power of the Emir during official receptions. During the Catholic Monarchs period, one of their first orders of business was to fund Christopher Columbus (1492.)
Palacio de los Leones (Palace of the Lions)
The gift of Mohammed V circa 1360, it is his legacy to the Alhambra. It becomes the private chambers of the royal family. Architects praise it for its use of light, water, colors, and exquisite decoration. It is a palace for all the senses.
Sala de los Mocarabes (the Hall of the Mocabes)
The name comes from the original mocarabes that were covering the ceiling. Unfortunately, a 1590 powder magazine explosion loosens them, and they take them down. There is still decoration on the walls.
Sala de los Reyes (Hall of the Kings.)
The painting on the central dome, of most of Granada’s Emirs, gives the room its name. However, the painting has more Christian than Arabic features.
Sala de Dos Hermanas (Hall of the Two Sisters.)
The name has nothing to do with siblings. It refers to the two twin marble flagstones in the floor. This hall was part of the sultana’s (favorite wife) residence for her and her family. I think the dome is the must-see of the room.
Sala de los Abencerrajes (Hall of the Abencerrajes.)
Adjacent to the Two Sisters is this hall where supposedly Abencerrajes knights lost their heads. However, any details are blurry. Check out the detail on the arches.
Sala de los Ajimeces (Hall of the Ajimeces.)
Another room whose decoration can cause eye strain; receives its name from the two twin balconies overlooking the garden.
Mirador de Daraxa.
Mirador means the overlook. This “sun porch” is in excellent shape, minus the floor. Look up. For a small room, I spend a lot of time here.
The Haren (Haram.)
Although three of his wives would live in this area, it was not a den of 100 wives waiting to serve. It was the personal residence for the king, away from anything official.
Patio de los Leones (Patio of the Lion)
Expect lots of people taking selfies. The patio leading to the Palace of the Lions is popular. Twelve lions support a large basin of water on their backs while spitting water into the fountain below. The courtyard is more in a Christian cloister style with 124 white marble columns creating a border.
The Towers.
For those missing their step class, you can spend the better part of a few hours visiting the towers, several you can climb (no elevators.)
Torre de los Picos (Tower of the Points)
This 13th- century tower has pointy merlons (caps) giving it its name. It was guarding the path to the Generalife Palace.
Torre del Cadí (Tower of the Judge.)
Next along the wall, some people still use its old 16th-century name, the Prisoner’s Tower. Later it was also the Tower of the passing She-Fox.
Torre de la Cautiva (Tower of the Captive.)
The next tower also went by the name Tower of the Woman Thief and Tower of the Sultana circa 1550. Legend says circa 1460, the Christian Lady Isabel de Solís becomes the king’s concubine and converts to Islam. He keeps her in this tower.
Torre de la Infantas (Tower of the Princesses.)
In the 1500s, the tower’s name was Ruiz y Quintarnaya’s Tower, after a local person living near or inside it. Circa 1830, Washington Irving writes Tales of the Alhambra, which includes a story of three princesses. And the tower has a new name.
Torre del Cabo de la Carrera, (Tower of the End of the Street.)
Guess the tower’s location in relation to the Alhambra’s main street? Thanks to Napoleon, only some of the tower remains. We know it was standing circa 1500, but it may be from earlier.
Torre del Agua (Water Tower.)
This tower also gets its name from its location, standing next to the aqueduct running from the Generalife. Thanks to Napoleon, it only has parts remaining.
A few sections of the walls you can walk on, predominantly near the Alcazaba. Around the newer palaces, you can walk outside along the base or from the inside of the palace. Only a few towers offer access, almost all from the palace.
There are more towers and four interesting gates worth seeing as well. Check out the Puerta de la Justicia, Puerta de las Granadas, Puerta del Vino, and Puerta de las Armas.
Are you starting to realize the Alhambra needs a full day just to scratch the surface?
Generalife (Garden of the Architect.)
The home of an architect, Muhammed II, “acquires” the land circa 1290 to create a summer palace and country estate for himself.
Spoiler alert, the Generalife (zhannat al-‘Arīf – Arabic), (Xe ne ɾa li fe-Spanish) has nothing to do with generals. And it has no “G” sound in its pronunciation. It was a personal escape with excessive decoration and fewer water features than today.
More and more decoration disappears with each century and not by destruction but by slowly disappearing under layers of plaster and whitewash until no details remain.
Jardines del Generalife
The hanging (terraced) gardens are lovely to walk through. Depending on the time of day, they can also supply delightful shade from the Spanish sun.
Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Water Channel or Water-Garden)
Today, there is a long pool with flowerbeds, fountains, and colonnades surrounding it. These gardens are probably a 1930s attempt to present the style of the medieval Persian garden. Photos from the 1800s do not show any of this. But it is still worth a visit.
Ciprés de la Sultana (Cypress of the Sultana)
This may be my favorite area as the mobs have never been here when I am. Also, part of the 1930s update, it just feels a little more authentic to me.
Escalera del Agua
Nearby is this fun staircase with troughs of water running down either side’s handrail.
Special Mention.
Castillo de Santa Elena (La Silla del Moro)
Directly uphill from the Generalife is a 13th-century fortress that was part of the Alhambra defenses. Its main responsibility was to protect and control the Alhambra water source coming from a palace further up the hill. Most of the castle structure is gone, but the terraces remaining offer an incredible view or camera angles on the Alhambra.
Dar al-Arusa (House of the Bride.)
The remains of this 14th-century palace are at the top of the hill. Floors with drains and pipes and the lower part of a few walls remain. Due to trees, views of the Alhambra are limited, but the valley beyond and parts of Granada are visible.
Charles V Palace
After the Catholic Monarchs overthrow the city in 1492, they immediately make some changes to the palace. By 1527, Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor, feels it is too small and not grand enough for his lifestyle.
He commissions a lavish Renaissance palace right in between the Alcazaba and the Comares Palace. That way, he can show off the Alhambra.
The building will hit construction and financial bumps along the way. By 1530, when he adds King of Italy to his resume, he loses interest in the project. They never finish the palace, and it will not receive its first roof until 1957.
Today, the palace is home to the Museum of the Alhambra on the ground floor. Besides items from the Alhambra, it has an incredible collection of Nasrid Art.
On the upper floor of the palace is the Granada Museum of Fine Arts. It includes a nice section to the hometown painter and sculptor, Alonso Cano.
Now, do you believe me when I say you need a full day to see the Alhambra?
The Alhambra is one of those places you better pre-purchase tickets as soon as you know you are going. They only allow a set number per day, and in peak season, they will sell out months in advance.
Realejo
There are no real borders to this area. It goes left, right, under, back, so for touring sake, let’s agree on a general area.
The Realejo includes the Alhambra. I broke that out for obvious reasons as it is its own area.
The rest of the Realejo stretches from the Alhambra southwest to the Genil River. On the northwest side of the Alhambra, it stretches down to the Darro River.
The Darro flows under Calle Reyes Catolicos when it reaches town. It goes four blocks underground before it meets Calle Acera del Darro (sidewalk over the Darro.) From here, it turns south and flows to the Genil river.
Let’s use this as the border between Realejo and the Albaicin District across the river to the north.
Plaza Isabel La Catolica
Were the major streets Calle Reyes Católicos and Calle Gran Vía de Colón meet is this plaza. The bronze statue depicts Queen Isabel permitting Christopher Columbus to mount an expedition to India going west.
Some locals refer to it as the Columbus Plaza as Isabel did nothing but appropriate supplies and money from others. She would force the people of Palos de la Frontera to build the three ships for free. The Monarchs do not put up any cash. She funds the expedition thanks to Luis de Santángel, a royal treasurer and Jew. He puts up most of his money, then borrows against his name to raise the rest. Then the story splits. A few weeks after “funding” Columbus, the Catholic Monarchs declare the expulsion of all Jews from Spain. That is one way to clear a debt. Other accounts say Santangel and his immediate family avoid persecution and live happily ever after,
Regardless, I think this is a great starting point for the Realejo exploring. One section stretches east (Darro River), the other south.
Corral del Carbón
Going west on Calle Reyes Católicos, turn left at the first pedestrian passage. In front of you, a half-block is the Moorish arch entrance to the Corral. Dating from the 14th-century, it is the only known Nasrid alhóndiga (grain house) left in the Iberian Peninsula. Later, it will serve as an inn. You can walk into the courtyard, but the interior of the building contains private offices.
Placio de Abrantes.
Turn right coming out of the corral. The cream color building on the far side of the courtyard is a former 16th-century palace. It was once home to the Duke of Abrantes and was probably Gothic and Mudejar in style. A renovation in the 1900s erases almost all of the original. Today, it houses a small cultural museum.
House of los Tiros
Five minutes walk east, on the north end of the Plaza de Padre Suarez is a building looking like part of a fort. The military appearance is because it was part of the defensive wall around the Los Alfareros neighborhood, circa 1540. Today, the Casa de Tiros Museum holds drawings, paintings, lithographs, and historic objects telling Granada’s history from the 1600s on.
Casa de los Girones
Cobertizo de Santo Domingo
Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo.
A block beyond the convent is a tower, all that remains of a circa 1200 palace. During the rule of the Catholic Monarchs, it was part of a Franciscan monastery.
From here, I would find a taxi for the next stop. The walk is only about 25 minutes; however, the last half is predominantly uphill.
Carmen de los Martires
Queen Isabel builds a hermitage on this spot circa 1573. Her grandson gives it to the church, which converts it to a convent. An 1842 fire destroys the convent. A rich businessman builds a summer house on the site. Today, the British and French gardens remain, offering a free place to relax and see excellent views of the city.
Manuel de Falla House Museum
A two-minutes walk from the gardens is the gate to this museum. This was the house of the Spanish composer from 1921 until the beginning of the Spanish Civil War. Leaving in a hurry, many of his personal belongings are now on display. He wrote an opera and a concerto while here. Much of his art is now in the concert hall next door, bearing his name.
Hotel Alhambra Palace
A two-minute walk from the museum is worth a stop to see the lobby, retaining much of its decor from opening day in 1910. A drink from the Panoramic Terrace is delightful, especially at sunset.
Carmen de la Fundación Rodríguez Acosta.
A short walk from the hotel is this 1920s house and gardens built for artist Jose María Rodríguez-Acosta. In addition to works by several family members, there are exotic pieces brought back from world traveling.
Torres Bermejas Castle
Three towers remain from this 9th-century fortress less than two minutes walk west of the Fundacion. It offers a unique perspective of the original Alhambra fortress. As of 2020, there was still scaffolding around the structure, blocking views of the castle.
From here, you have at least two options. A five-minute walk to the north will take you to the massive gates, Puerta de las Granadas, leading to the Alhambra. Adjacent is the Palacio de los Marqueses de Cartagena, originally the home of the Marquis of Cartagena.
Or, walk south, downhill for approximately 15 minutes to the Museo Sefardí. This small museum covers the Jewish culture, history, and traditions up until the 1492 expulsion. From the museum, it is a five-minute walk back to the Plaza Isabel.
The Albaicín (Albayzín.)
Like the Alhambra, the Albaicin is an area full of little treasures.
The Gran Via del Colon separates the Centro from the Albaicin, and we know the Calle Reyes Catolicos separates both of these from the Realejo.
Granada Centro (Arrabal de Bib-Arrambla.)
Catedral de Granada (Cathedral.)
Granada’s 1518 A.D. cathedral sits on the previous Nasrid Great Mosque of Granada in the center of the former Muslim Medina. It is one of many great structures built during the reign of Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor.
The church is Gothic in design with an edge of the Renaissance. The Baroque features are from the 1600s. The tabernacle dates from circa 1706.
Royal Chapel
Beginning as a side chapel to the cathedral, the Royal Chapel began construction under Ferdinand in 1505. The site, on the south side of the cathedral, was the terraces of the Grande mosque.
Charles V will take over the completion after the 1514 death of Ferdinand. In 1517, both monarchs arrived at the new chapel. Their daughter, Joanna of Castile, and her husband Felipe I are also there. Charles V lies in the Monastery and Site of the Escurial chapel of the kings, a UNESCO site northwest of Madrid.
A museum housing numerous works of hometown abstract-expressionist painter Jose Guerrero. The collection also includes several other modern artists. The museum is in the passage to the right of the Iglesia del Sagrario.
Palacio de la Madraza (Madrasah)
North of the Cathedral
Mercado San Augustin
A block north from the back of the cathedral is this exciting market. Part market, part food court, you will find meat butchers, fishmongers, stalls full of fruits and produce bakeries, and more. Several stands have hightop tables in front of them. During slower periods, they may have stools. During peak time, the stools seem to disappear, suggesting you eat and leave. This is a great place to find something for everyone.
Centro Federico Garcia Lorca
This center for the arts is in honor of the Spanish poet, playwright, and theater director Federico Garcia Lorca. Federico is not a native of Granada. However, at the beginning of the Spanish Civil War, it was here that Franco’s fascist troops assassinated him. The center attempts to educate children in the arts through Lorca’s works and dance, art, and literature. Exhibits and performances are accessible to the public. The center is a two-minute walk from the cathedral or market.
West of the Granada Cathedral
Plaza de Bib-Rambla
With your back to the cathedral’s main door, cross the plaza in front of you, exiting in the far left corner. One block brings you to the plaza. Today, many call it the Plaza of Flowers, and it features the Fuente de los Gigantes, a large 17th-century fountain with Neptune.
It began as the mercantile (bazaar) during the Muslim period. When the Catholic Monarchs take over, the square hosts jousts, processions, and Isabella’s autos de fe to purge non-Catholics.
Today, this area is the Alcaicería, and there are still narrow streets with shops leading off in each direction.
Granada’s Lower Albaicin
The Albaicín section stretches east from the Gran Via del Colon and north of the Darro River. Many mistakenly refer to this area as Sacromonte, which is actually one more hill east.
Officially, the north side of the river is Albaicin, while the south shore is in the Realejo. As you would probably visit them together, I am lumping them together in this section.
Plaza Isabel La Catolica sounds familiar. This is a great starting or ending point as three neighborhoods come together at this intersection. For the Albaicín section, we will head east along Calle Reyes Catolicos.
Plaza Nueva
Three short blocks from Plaza Isabel is this plaza that was new circa 1500 when they cover the Darro to create more space. Today, there are numerous cafes, but originally it would host bullfights and public executions. Calle Elvira, on the west side of the plaza, is popular with shoppers looking for souvenirs.
Real Chancillería (Royal Chancellery.)
This imposing building from circa 1530 was built by Philip II (Charles son) in Renaissance style. The crown holds various courts from the Royal Chancellery, not just local but for all of Andalusia. How convenient to have a plaza for executions just out front. By the 17th century, they add a prison for overflow. Today, it is the home of the High (Supreme) Court of Justice of Andalucia.
Juzgados (courts)
Across the plaza is the courts (Juzgados) building originally built to deal with the Inquisition backlog. Everyone deserves a “fair” trial. They still use the courts today.
Pilar del Toro (bulls fountain.)
This 16th-century fountain has only been in this square since 1941. It is not a tribute to the bullfights that once took place here, but it is a good story.
Iglesia de San Gil y Santa Ana.
This church, standing at the east end of the square, dates from 1537, and a bell tower circa 1561. The ornate sculpture over the entrance gives a clue as to what awaits inside. There is sculptural work on many of the columns and works by many great Spanish artists. Make sure to look up and admire the Mudejar (partly Gothic, partly Islamic) coffered ceilings.
The “split” between the two neighborhoods becomes more obvious beyond the church. Calle Sta. Ana, to the right of the church as you face it, runs along the Realejo side.
To the left is Carrera del Darro, on the Albaicín side. It is the more scenic street and a favorite walk of mine in the early morning.
Patio de los Perfumes.
Heads up, this is a store first, trying to sell perfume. Also, this 16th-century house was originally the home of the Marqués de Sálar. Like all buildings 400+ years old, it has gone through renovations, but the overall feel is that they did not stray too far from the original. There is a small perfume museum which requires a tour. There is also the option to make your own perfume, a scentsual experience. It is the third building from the square along Carrera del Darro.
Hammam Al Ándalus
Cross the first bridge you come to and keeping right, climb the six steps to Calle Sta Anna. Turn right and look for the fourth building on your left. This is a business, and I usually do not “advertise” businesses on this website. However, it is also an opportunity to use the sense of feel. This website is all about immersion into a destination using all the senses.
The Arab Baths (Turkish) are not only important to hygiene, but they also cleanse the soul. The Christians thought this to be heathen behavior and, unfortunately, destroyed most of Spain’s baths. Although it has newer plumbing and building restorations, this is one of Spain’s oldest working Moorish baths.
This experience is not for everyone. Wearing a bathing suit, you experience a warm room to loosen the muscles. An attendant then washes you from head to toe with a cloth or lufra on a heated marble slab. My experiences range from a gentle rub to being tossed about like silly putty. All were wonderful. You leave feeling tingly all over. They offer other massage and “spa” treatments, but the Arab Bath is “the experience.” It should hit all five senses.
Palacio de los Olvidados.
Cross back across the bridge and continue up the stairs directly in front of you. There are approximately 25, but they are not steep. The Palacio is at the top. The house is from the 16th century and reflects several restorations. Today, it houses the Museum of the Inquisition. The collection includes numerous instruments of torture and capital punishment used by the inquisitorial courts. These were both civil and ecclesiastical courts, although the results were often the same if you were not born Catholic.
El Bañuelo
Back down to Carrera del Darro and turn left. The first door on your left after the next bridge (on your right) is El Banuelo. Of the 21 Arab baths once operating in Granada, it is the oldest and only one of four remaining. Dating from the 11th century, it is no longer a working bath but is free to explore.
Convento de Santa Catalina de Zafra (Dominicas)
One block further, on your left, is this imposing convent building from circa 1540. Moorish houses in the area became part of the building materials mixing with the Renaissance style. The Baroque decorations date from circa 1678 after a fire destroys many areas. Parts of the convent are open to the public. Try one of the sweets the local nuns make,
Casa de Castril
The very next building is Castril Palace. This 1539 Renaissance palace was originally the home of Hernando de Zafra, secretary of Catholic monarchs, responsible for the convent next door. Today, it houses the Archeological and Ethnographic Museum of Granada.
Take a detour up the pedestrian street between the convent and museum, Calle de Zafra. Turn left at the first corner, Calle Portería Concepción. The house dates from the 14th century and is a typical example of a small Nasrid palace. There is no evidence this was a residence for Hernando Zafra. He “inherits” it from Isabel along with the land for his Castril Palace. Upon his death, it becomes the convent Santa Catalina de Siena. In the late 1800s, it becomes a private residence. Unfortunately, time, changes in religious influence, bad renovations, and humidity take their toll. However, it is one of the better examples of 14th-century architecture remaining.
Paseo de los Tristes.
This scenic plaza features a 1609 fountain that was built for this location and is still there. It also offers great views of the Alhambra’s Torre de Comares directly above the other side of the river. Carrera de Dario becomes Paseo de los Tristes from here on.
Puente del Aljibillo
Palacio de los Cordova
Upper Albaicin
You “can” walk it if you are in good shape and have a great G.P.S. The streets here are just as curvy; some are only for pedestrians, and others are actually a staircase.
Either way, I suggest starting at the top and working down.
Mirador de San Cristobal.
Offering a scenic view of Granada’s city, you can get a feel for where you are heading. There is a great view of the walls of the Palacio de Dar al-Horra.
Puerta Monaita
This is one of the oldest gates into Granada. This is a Kodak moment as the path on the other side leads to nothing of historical importance.
Palace of Dar al-Horra
This 15th-century Nasrid palace sits on an earlier Zirid palace’s remains dating back to the 11th century. This was the residence of Queen Aisha, whose son Boabdil would take the Christian slave Isabel de Solís as his consort.
Hernando de Zafra would later use part of the palace for the Monastery of Santa Isabel la Real, still in use on the south side. The remaining two-story palace includes a tower, a central courtyard with a pool, and some original decorations.
The Royal Convent of Saint Isabel
Casa Museo Max Moreau
This is the former home of 20th-century Belgium portrait painter Léon Moreau. He is best known for portraits of Arab men and women wearing traditional garb. He also did street scenes. You can walk through the house, terraces, and gardens. You can see his former living quarters, study, and studio, untouched since his 1992 death. There is a gallery showcasing many of his portrait, still life, and landscape paintings.
Iglesia de San Nicolás
The Mosque of Granada
Continue to walk east on Callejón Atarazana, the street to the south (Alhambra side) of San Nicholas and the Mosque. At the end of the street, take the steps down to the next street and turn left. Go right at the corner, and the road then turns to the left. The rock wall on your left surround several mansions you cannot see. The road curves to the left and then down to the right. Stay on the road and do not takes the steps up to the left. This brings you to Cuesta del Chapiz street. Turn right.
Casa del Chapiz.
Two blocks down on the left is what appears as a Moorish house. Once inside, it is actually two houses, each with a courtyard. Lorenzo el Chipiz, a convert to Christianity, builds the larger house circa 1500, over a 14th century Nasrid Palace. It has an “L” shape allowing for views of the Alhambra. The smaller house to the north is for his father in law several years later.
From the school, it is a four-minute walk downhill to Palacio de los Cordova, which appears under Lower Albaicin. The walk from here to Plaza Isabel is approximately 15 minutes along the river.
Sacromonte (Sacral Mount)
Officially, the Sacromonte neighborhood is further east of what we have been talking about so far. Many people confuse the Upper Albaicin as Sacromonte. The hill east of the Casa del Chapiz and Palacio de los Cordova is the Sacral
I suggest a taxi as it is a good hike from anywhere in town. The highlights are the whitewashed houses and cafes; some cut into the hillside. You do not realize they are until you go inside, and it is much larger than it looks outside. There are also some great views of the Alhambra, especially at night.
Abbey of Sacromonte.
Outside of restaurants and Flamenco shows, this is the only place to visit in Sacromonte. This 17th-century abbey includes underground chapels and catacombs, which you can see on guided tours.
You cannot enter the Abbey except on tour. Tours in English are only in the afternoon. There is also a college dating back to the 17th-century and a seminary on property. The views down the valley are nice.
Further Out of the Center of Granada
What? There’s more? Not all sites are right in the center.
North of Granada Centro
Monasterio de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (Granada Charterhouse)
Construction began circa 1516 and would last three hundred years. The outside gives you no warning of the flamboyant explosion of ornamentation inside. The dome, sacristy, and tabernacle are all masterpieces.
Plaza de Toros
Nearby is the bullfighting rink of Granada. Dating from 1927, the rink is one of Spain’s larger buildings, although bullfighting is not as popular here as in other cities. The venue can hold 12,000 spectators and is used for other performances besides bullfights. Tours are available.
Hospital Real de Isabel la Católica
Jardines Del Triunfo.
Directly across the street from the hospital is now a lovely public garden. This area has seen many inhabitants. There was a Visigoth basilica circa the 11th century. A Muslim cemetery until the Catholic Monarchs tore that up circa 1500. During the French occupation, they would use it for executing Spanish resistance fighters. In the 1960s, it would become the gardens you can see today.
Basilica of San Juan de Dios
Dating from circa 1759, this Baroque Basilica is the final resting place for Granada’s patron saint. The interior does not have one inch of floor, wall, or ceiling that isn’t full of color. Marble and gold are everywhere, with silver trying to keep up. The accents of blue set everything off.
Monasterio de San Jerónimo, Granada
A block away from the Basilica, this monastery was also one of the Catholic monarchs’ grand works. The monastery has two cloisters and Renaissance interiors with rich decorations. During the French occupation, they destroy the tower—the current tower dates from 1989. The monastery is open late morning and again in the late afternoon. Mass takes place each morning.
South of Granada Centro
The southern part of the city is new in comparison to most of the other areas. There is one pavilion left of a 13th-century Moorish palace (Alcázar Genil), but everything else is less than 100 years old.
There are several modern attractions, but they have little to do with Granada’s history. These include the Biodomo Granada, which is part of the Park of Sciences. They offer several activities for the brain on palace overload.
Across the street is the CajaGRANADA Cultural Center with performance spaces and a museum on Andalusia.
Granada Summary
Is this everything you need to see? Hardly! But I hope it is enough to help you immerse yourself in Granada.
And give yourself time. You cannot do Granada justice in a few hours. Come, enjoy.