September 29, 2019 – Rhodes

THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION

WHERE TO?                  TASTE.                   SEE

Rhodes is somewhat of a forgotten island. What a shame.

It is the furthest away from mainland Greece and the last stop on any ferry route.

Hippocrates Square in Rhodes Old Town.

But that’s about the only weak point it has. And with its international airport, geography isn’t that important either. The island is an hours flight from Athens. There is impressive history, Rhodian cuisine, and the Rhodian people.

The Ancient Rhodians.

A few farming remnants dating from the Neolithic period, (circa 10,000 B.C. – 4,500 B.C.) show Rhodes has some history. But there are only a few remnants, and they do not tell us much about the earliest Rhodians.

Who is Invading This Week?

The Dorians, (from northern Greece and the Peloponesse) invade the few settlements around 800 B.C. On the island of Rhodes they build the cities of Lindos, (SE) Ialyssos (N) and Kameiros (NW). They also establish a town on the nearby island of Kos.

Around 500 B.C., the Persians invade, and Athens comes to the rescue. Around 322 B.C., Alexander the Great becomes the next Rhodian conqueror.

After Alexander 

The Greek islands are not prizes to Alexander’s generals, so they ignore them.

The Rhodian people develop themselves into an important commercial port. In a short time, the Rhodians are controlling the trade between the Aegean and Mediterranian. Rhodes is enjoying Greece’s Golden Age. It becomes a prominent cultural center, as well.

Somewhere around 280 B.C., the Rhodian people build a tourist attraction.

The colossal statue (over 100 feet high) would become one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.  It would stand, in, over, next to, within sight of, the harbor for 54 years.

This really depends on which expert you ask. They all seem to have been there. In 226, a great earthquake takes it out. If fell forward, backward, got down on one knee, did the Charleston before falling in the harbor, or on land. It all depends on which expert you ask.

The Romans

Rhodes is still the address to have, for a while.

At first, this is not a bad marriage. Rhodes became a destination for Roman noble families. It is a cultural place for the adults and an important educational center for the young.

Rhodians enjoy many privileges because of this.

The Beginning of the End

However, the Roman Republic is in its last throws. Rome is becoming more dangerous as politicians fight, steal, and grab to advance themselves.  Cassius, the one behind Ceasar’s assassination, seizes power. In 43 B.C. he sets out to punish anyone who was an ally of Ceasar. One of the first targets is Rhodes, which they sack and make it a place for political exiles.

Not So Ancient, Rhodes.

Around 57 A.D. the Apostle Paul stops at Rhodes on his return to Jerusalem. His stays for one day or several weeks. Depends on who you ask (those experts again). Unfortunately, there does not seem to be any history supporting either. Christianity is spreading through Greece at this time.

By the beginning of the 3rd century, Rhodes is once again an important port and island.

The Knights to the Rescue.

By 1310, the Byzantine and the Anatolians leave the island as the Knights Hospitaller arrives from Jerusalem.

The Knights Hospitaller began in Jerusalem to provide care for sick, weak, or injured pilgrims visiting the Holy Land.

To avoid guilt by association, they rename themselves the “Knights of Rhodes.”

In 1522, Suleiman the Magnificent arrives with 400 ships and more than 100,000 men. The Knights number about 7,000 soldiers. The knights, with the help of their fortifications, keep the Ottomans out for six months. Finally, the surviving Hospitallers surrender and withdraw to the Kingdom of Sicily. There, they will rebuild and move their base of operations to Malta.

The Ottoman Period.

After the Ottomans conquer the Greek Islands, they lose interest in most of them. Rhodes becomes a second-level province, overseeing the nearby Dodecanese islands. Unfortunately, that means the Ottomans do pay some attention to it. The Rhodians no longer enjoy the freedoms they had.

Due to its trading past, the island is a mix of several ethnic groups, including Jews. The Ottomans, generally leave them alone.

The Greek War of Independence 1821

During the Greek War of Independence, Rhodes does not take part in the uprising. This choice is due, in part to a large number of Ottomans on the island and in the harbor. Many Rhodians flee to join the Greek rebels in other areas. 

By 1830, the war is over, and the Ottomans are evacuating the Greek mainland and many islands. Rhodes is not one of them and becomes the seat of the chief admiral of the Ottoman Navy.

During the 1912 Italo-Turkish War, the Kingdom of Italy seizes the island from the Ottomans.

In retaliation for the Italian Armistice in 1943, Germany attacks Italy, killing many of its troops and occupying Rhodes. They hold on to the island until the end of the war in 1945.

The British occupy the island as a military protectorate. Finally, in 1947, Rhodes, and the other islands of the Dodecanese, unite with Greece.

Rhodes Today

Tourism is the big industry on the island. Look how much history they have. The beaches on the east coast attract large numbers of charter groups from Europe. The archeological and ancient sites are magnets for the history buffs. Rhodian cuisine and wine also attract visitors.

SHOULD SEE SITES

Rhodes Town

Perhaps the best place to start is at the top.

Acropolis of Rhodes – is on a hill they now call Monte Smith. At the summit of the Acropolis stands the 3rd century B.C. temple of Pythion Apollo, the citie’s patron deity.

Mandraki

This part of the city is a newer section of Rhodes Town. Here is a small boat harbor, casino, aquarium, and several beautiful hotels.

• Palazzo del Governo – dating from 1926 is today, the prefecture building.  The Venetian Gothic style, in white and pink stone, is a nod to the Doge’s Palace in Venice.

• The Catholic Cathedral of Saint John of the Knights – dating from 1925 is now Evangelismos Greek Orthodox church. The building is along the lines of the previous church of the same name. Many people refer to it (incorrectly) as the Venetian clock tower.

• Mercato Nuovo (Nea Agora, “New Market”) – was the center of the new city. A mixture of Arabian and Oriental styles, it was the city market. Today it is home to tourist shops and cafes. In the central part, you can often find where the Rhodians sit to have coffee. You know where to find me.

The Harbor

• Hirschkuh Statue – stands at the entrance to the Mandraki Harbor. It is two columns with deer on top. Although there is no proof, legend says they are on the spot where the feet of the Colossus was standing.

Rhodes Windmills – Today, only three of the original 12-14 windmills remain on the mole. The building is by Venetian prisoners beginning in 1218.

The Old Town

Rhodes Old Town –  is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The collection of medieval Frankish, Byzantine, and Ottoman structures makes it unique, especially on an island.

• Marine Gate – was one of the original gates, giving access from the old town to the harbor. The round shape makes less of a target for cannonballs. It deflects those not making a direct hit.

• Walls – There are approximately 2.5 miles of the wall connecting these gates. From noon – 3:00 PM, you can walk the portion from near the palace to the Red Gate. There is a small fee. The wall is a separate attraction from the castle.
• The Moat. – You can access the moat area 24/7 for free. I prefer this over the walls as now you are standing at the base looking up. You get a feel for how massive these walls are. Although there is little shade mid-day, in the morning and later afternoon the shadows make them even more dramatic. I think it’s a great Rhodian secret.

Also in the Old Town

• Palace of the Grand Masters – is a palace and fortification built on the site of a 7th-century citadel. It was the residence of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes. Also, it was where governing and legislative works were taking place. It could also act as a fort in case of attack. The Ottomans would use it as a prison and Mussolini as his home and office.

• Street of the Knights – is a medieval street running from the palace at the top, down to the old harbor. Along this street are the Inns (barracks) of the Knights. Today, they are private homes and businesses, but you can still see the coat-of-arms on the outside.

• The Hospital – is an imposing building dating from 1489. It was necessary to replace a smaller, older hospital that ran out of space. In the middle is a courtyard where they would have medicinal and aromatic plants and herbs. Downstairs were offices and storerooms. Upstairs were two wards for the sick and wounded.

Today, the hospital is home to the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes. The collection contains artifacts from across Rhodes island. These include mosaics, marble statues, urns, and funerary stelae. Also, it is home to the first-century B.C. Aphrodite of Rhodes.

Socrates (Sokratous) Street

This pedestrian walk is the main shopping street running from the mosque to Hippocrates Square.

Hippocrates Square – is at the bottom of Socrates street. It is adjacent to the Marine Gates from the harbor. Everyone seems to pass through this central square of the old town once a day. It is full of tourist traps, but if you look, there are a few Rhodian jewels as well.

The Rest of the Island

Lindos – is a transplant from the Cyclades. Whitewashed buildings with blue accents terracing down a hillside. There are several beaches nearby, including the Bay of St Paul. He probably did not wash ashore.

The reason most people come to Lindos is for the Crusader Castle with the surprise inside.

The natural citadel has been home to Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, the Knights of St John, and more. All of them leave treasures:

• The Doric Greeks donation is part of a Temple of Athena Lindia, dating from around 300 BC. Also a 4th-century BC Propylaea for the Sanctuary.

West Coast

• Kamiros (Camirus) is the remains of an ancient Dorian city. It consists of three levels. At the top is the Acropolis. Here, there is a temple complex of Athena Kameiras dating to at least the eighth century B.C. There is a 6th century B.C. reservoir that can hold enough water for 400 families. 

Middle of the Island

• Filerimos – is a Gothic monastery of stone. It sits on the site of an earlier Byzantine church, which sits on the site of an ancient acropolis.

Ruins of the Hellenistic Temple to Athena are visible on the grounds. This monastery, dating from the 14th century, was the work of the Knights of Rhodes.

Rhodian Summary

There is much to do and see on Rhodes, and some people don’t even know the island exists.

Plan to spend a few days with at least a full day and evening in town. And at least one day for the island. And a day to relax. Then you need a day for wining and Rhodian cuisine, and…

Read more about Rhodes.

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