THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Some of us may remember that Samuel de Champlain was an explorer who maps Arcadia and discovers Quebec city.
But where did he begin the journey? Well, yes, France, but can you be a little more specific?
He would depart from the port of Honfleur, at the mouth of the River Seine.
Long before Le Havre, across the river, Honfleur is a significant port for what will become France.
By 1100 it is a central shipping point to England.
It will be vital for supplies in the Hundred Years War and the Wars of Religion.
It will not be until Napoleon’s blockade in 1806 that Honfleur will lose its status as a leading port.
So what impressions do you have of Honfleur?
This small town in the Normandy region is, like many small towns, decreasing in size. It has no industry per se, and the younger generations are moving to larger cities.
Today, tourism and hospitality are the leading employers of the towns, approximately 7000 residents.
Why do people come here?
One reason is, it receives very little damage during the Second World War. It still gives the same impression as 100 years ago.
Not many places on France’s north coast can say that.
Impressions of Honfleur.
The Le Vieux Bassin (Old basin or harbor) is the star of the town. Except for the newer boats in the port and cars on the streets, it could still be the 1800s.
Let’s start at the Carrousel de Honfleur. This amusement has nothing to do with Honfleur’s history. It has only been here since 1995 and is seasonal from May until October. It spends the winter somewhere else. But it makes a significant landmark from where to start.
Going counter-clockwise around the harbor, you next come to La Lieutenance. It is just across the bridge to your right (port on the left). This 17th-century stone structure was once the former home of the King’s lieutenant (governor) of Caen.
It was one of two entrances into the medieval village and part of the city walls.
Saint Catherine’s church – One building beyond the lieutenance, you will see the spire of Catherine’s Church on your left. The construction of the double-roof is almost entirely out of wood.
The impressive structure, dating to the 15th century, is the work of local shipbuilders. If you do not believe me, go inside and look up at the twin naves. Remind you of anything?
Clocher Sainte-Catherine (bell tower) is behind and separate from the church for fire reasons.
The shape almost gives one the impression of a lighthouse.
This tower of oak construction is now an annex of the Musée Eugène Boudin. It features sacred works of art, ornaments, and other religious articles.
And We Are Walking.
Follow the Rue du Dauphin (closest to the harbor) away from the church, keeping the port to your left.
You will pass patisseries, chocolate, and ham shops, and I do not fault you if you stop in every one.
Taste is a part of the total impression.
The first street you come to is Rue de la République. Turn left and walk down to the water’s edge.
See a building on the right of the harbor with a pointed steeple? The Sainte-Etienne church is home to the naval museum, your next stop.
Rue de la Republique is now Rue Montpensier. You will be coming back here after the subsequent two visits.
Musée de la Marine – has a collection of models, paintings, engravings, and various objects from local maritime history.
It is an excellent glimpse into the life of Honfleur seafarers during the 18th and 19th centuries.
Musée d’Ethnographie. – This fascinating museum is in a half-timbered house from the 16th century.
There are nine rooms (exhibits) with the furnishings and trappings of their theme. You get the impression you are back in time.
These include a haberdashery, weaver’s room, print shop, a bourgeois room, a young girl’s room, and more.
As you face the front of the naval museum, take the street down the right side of the building.
Come, We Are Walking.
As you exit the naval or Ethnographie museums, turn left (harbor on your right) and return to Rue Montpensier. Turn left and follow the street to the next corner, and turn sharp left onto Rue de la Ville.
Follow this charming street around the curve to the right. On your right, you will see two stone structures.
Grenier à Sel d’Honfleur (salt granaries) – are the last two salt warehouses for the cod once coming from Nova Scotia.
These impressive structures date from 1670. Unfortunately, the city owns them and uses them for conferences and meetings, so you cannot go inside.
A few feet further on, on your left, is a tree-covered plaza. Walk into the square. In front of you are two white two-story buildings.
Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) – is the white building in the far right corner. This historic building dates to 1837 and is still the city hall.
Behind this building is the carrousel, where you began.
Without stops or too much traffic, you can probably make the walk within ten minutes. But there is no fun in that.
Stop for photos, a piece of chocolate, or look inside the open sites.
The goal is to turn this into at least a half-day adventure, before the Normandy cuisine.
I Have the Impression.
Where have you seen Honfleur before?
It looks familiar.
Have you been to Normandy in another life?
How about an art museum? The Musee D’Orsay, British Museum, New York’s Metropolitan, The Art Institute of Chicago, and many more have Honfleur paintings.
Honfleur has been the inspiration for artists for many centuries.
From a painting, a photo, calendar, or Christmas card, there is an impression of Honfleur somewhere in your mind.
By the 1840s, hometown artist Eugène Boudin is capturing the town and surrounding coast on canvas.
His inspiration comes from earlier artists such as Richard Bonington, Joseph Turner, Paul Huet, and others spending time in Honfleur.
It is his contemporary, the Dutch painter Johan Jongkind, who convinces him to paint outdoors.
He pays it forward by convincing a young artist to stop doing caricatures and start painting landscapes.
He shares his love of bright colors and the way light plays on water. The 18-year olds name is Claude Monet.
Fourteen years later, Monet will paint the River Seine at sunrise from his home town of Le Havre.
The painting, “Impression, Sunrise,” will lend its name to the painting movement emerging in France.
For the art lover, a visit to the Musée Eugène-Boudin de Honfleur is a must in this land of painters.
It is a ten-minute walk from the harbor.
Fun Fact:
La Ferme Saint Siméon – today is a luxury Relais & Châteaux property. Circa 1840, an inn on the grounds, was home to several poor young artists. Mother Toutain, the innkeeper, took care of them like her own.
This group would give rise to the Impressionist School of Honfleur, or School of Saint Simeon. The group includes Boudin, Corot, Daubigny, Dubourg, Jongkind, Monet, and many more.
Visitors must have a dining or lodging reservation to enter the current property, nothing like the Inn of the 1840s.
So now you have another reason to visit Normandy, not like you needed one.
Walk the Norman streets, dine on fresh moules or a sole meunière, harborside, or experience the impressions of light.
Try some of the local cider Normandy is famous for. Or maybe some Calvados, the local apple brandy on a chilly night.
Any way you experience Honfleur, it will impress you.
Read more about Honfleur.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.