THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Do you know where Sifnos is?
And if you do, why would you want to visit Sifnos?
The ferry ride from Pireaus (Athens) takes anywhere from 2.5 to 5 hours, depending on the ship.
The ferry to Santorini goes right by the island but rarely stops.
This is another one of the Cycladic islands you have to plan to visit.
But are there any good reasons to go out of your way?
I think there are plenty, so let me tell you about them.
Come, let’s visit Sifnos.
Kamares.
Kamares is the port of Sifnos. This is where the ferries arrive and depart.
It is also home to small boats due to its protected cove.
Kamares is only two streets wide in several places. You will find the standard rooms for rent, car rentals, cafe, and A.T.M., but not much else.
Kamares Beach.
250 yards walk from the ferry pier is this beach with chairs and umbrellas to rent seasonally. There are cafes along the beach for food and drink.
If you are on a backpacker’s budget, you can find everything you need here. And that’s just what they do.
But we have more to see.
Prophet Elias of Troulaki Monastery.
Before leaving the ferry pier, look across the bay and up. You can see two white buildings on the top of the mountain. To your left is this monastery on Sifnos’ highest point. More than 2200 feet above the bay, the church dates to circa 1600 A.D.
You can drive up the backside of the mountain a good portion of the way. There is still a climb from the road. The views and sunsets can be amazing on a clear day.
Visit Sifnos’ capital, Apollonia.
The town is approximately 3.5 miles from the ferry pier. The drive takes about 10 minutes, depending on traffic.
Once you get there, if you have a rental car, the fun begins. Many parts of Apollonia are pedestrian or have private parking for locals.
The only public lot I know of is along the road from Kamares. Look for the square blue sign with a white “P” on your left-hand side.
At the far (west) side of the parking lot is a pedestrian stair-path. A 5-minute walk will bring you to the center of town (Heroon Square) and avoid cars on the main road.
The Pedestrian Streets of Apollonia.
Stroll the streets of this traditional Cycladic village, and try to lose yourself. There are small stores, cafes, tavernas, rooftop dining, and other treasures to discover.
Artemonas.
Anymore, this town, a mile north of Apollonia, is a suburb of Apollonia.
However, the architecture changes. This is where the wealthy Siphnian ship owners would build their 19th-century mansions.
Artemonas is also predominantly pedestrian. There is a large parking area on the main road across from the Church of St. Constantine and Helen.
I can not prove it, but it seems there are more places here to find a sweet or baked good. Not that I am complaining.
But with all the walking, it is good to keep the carbs at a healthy level.
Like other Cycladic villages, the pedestrian streets wind back and forth and go up and down.
Part of the charm is losing yourself. But, don’t worry; we find everyone before dinner time.
Visit Sifnos’ Kastro.
This is not only the best-preserved medieval town on Sifnos but one of the best in the Cyclades.
Sitting on a cliffside on the east coast, it is obvious to see its location was a matter of protection.
Castle of Sifnos.
The island’s first inhabitants were living here circa the 3rd millennium B.C. It would be the first capital of the island.
In the 6th century A.D., the church installs the Archdiocese of Sifnos.
The castle has two defensive rings around it. The homes of the rich are inside the rings.
Even then, it’s all about the location.
Archaeological Museum of Sifnos.
This small museums collection includes mostly local finds dating from the Bronze Age to the late Byzantine period.
Chapel of the Seven Martyrs.
The seven Martyrs refer to the seven youth of Ephesus who sleep for 184 years. However, that is not why you visit this church. In fact, you don’t visit this chapel.
It is one of the Kodak moments of Greek chapels.
Sitting on a rock outcropping below the Kastro, it is ‘the’ Instagram spot on Sifnos and very popular with brides.
The picture is from above with the sea behind it. There is a paved path from the south side of the Kastro.
There are several low walls to sit on during the climb back up.
Visit The Rest of the Island.
Local legend says there is a church for each day of the year. There is a saint for every day, but at last count, there were only around 330 churches. So regardless of when you visit, you can find a festival, although they vary in size.
The Monastery of Panagia Chrissopigi.
Perhaps the second most-photographed church on the island is this monastery.
Dating from the 16th century, this monastery is on top of an older church. Inside is the icon of Panagia, the island’s patron saint.
Fishermen found the icon floating in the sea.
Faros Beach.
Although rocky, this beach with tamarisk trees is one of my favorites.
There is sand right at the water’s edge, and the water is crystal-clear. There are umbrellas and chairs for rent, but I am happy at a taverna people watching.
On a clear day, you can see the Monastery of Chrisopigi at the end of the cove.
Monastery of Panagia Vrysiani.
On the road to Faros and Platys Gialos is the largest monastery on Sifnos.
Dating from the 17th century, they worship the Birth of the Virgin Mary.
There is a small Museum of Ecclesiastical Art on the property. Its collection includes manuscripts, historical icons, and other religious relics.
Archaeological Site of Agios Andreas.
This is one of the most interesting Mycenaean discoveries in the Aegean.
Much of what you see today dates from the 8th century B.C. However, it sits on top of another settlement from the twelfth century B.C.
All that remains at the site are the foundations of walls. An easy-to-navigate paved path winds through the ruins, which is uphill when arriving.
There is a small museum of artifacts from the site near the entrance. Reach the site from the road running between Apollonia and Vathi.
Church of Saint Andrew.
On top of the Agios Andreas site is this church dating from 1701 A.D.
There is no doubt that missing parts of the archaeological site are building material for the church.
Vathi Beach.
On the west coast of the island is this protected bay. It has a sand beach and a few tamarisk trees for shade. There are water sports (seasonal) and tavernas for food and beverage.
Sifnos Atsonios Pottery Workshop.
There has been a pottery workshop here since 1870.
At the south end of Vathi bay, a father and son are keeping the art alive.
There are a few other old workshops around the island.
Cherronisos.
This charming fishing village is at the north end of the island.
The protected bay has small fishing boats at anchor. There is a small beach, but I come here for the local tavernas where the fish tastes better.
If you have the time, try to arrange a boat trip here from Kamares.
Visit Sifnos via Nature.
Hiking Sifnos.
Sifnos Trails has ten different hiking routes ranging from just over three miles to more than nine. Many are fairly easy, although all have uneven terrain.
This is a great way to see tower ruins and churches not visible from the road.
Spring and fall are the best times (weather and temperature) for hiking.
Towers of Sifnos.
The ruins of 85 towers are visible all over the island. Some are just a few rocks, while others still retain part of their shape. Many are visible on the hiking trails.
These signal and watch-out towers date from between the 6th and 4th century B.C. Click on the orange link for a map.
Visit Sifnos Summary.
Like all my blogs, this is not the ultimate list of things to do, in this case, on Sifnos.
However, I hope it is enough for you to want to visit.
And once you get here, immerse yourself in this charming destination.
A little history, some breathtaking scenery, great cuisine, and the local people, what’s not to like?
Plan to visit Sifnos.
Want to read more about Sifnos? Click here.
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“Can you picture yourself on Sifnos? What are you doing?”
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.