THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
In recent posts, we took a look at a few of the Greek Islands and the Peloponnese.
But there is a more extensive section of Greece that many Americans miss. The Mainland.
You have Athens at the southern end of the Greek Mainland. But what about everything else stretching almost 300 miles to the north, west, and east to the Turkish border?
Stretching from the mountains to the seaside, the Greek Mainland produces much of Greece’s grain, produce, dairy, and meat.
The Greek Mainland.
The birthplace of most of the Greek gods of mythology, Mount Olympus, is here. This land is where Phillip and his son Alexander do great things.
Here is where 300 Spartans challenge the Persians, The Apostle Paul baptizes Lydia, and a sneaker gets a shout out. Ever hear the story about the guy from Marathon?
Southern Greek Mainland
Attica.
It is the home to Athens and Sounion, subjects of past blogs.
Approximately 26 miles 385 yards northeast of Athens is the town of Marathon. In 490 B.C., the Athenian army beat the Persians at this location.
Greek legend (stuff you cannot prove) says Pheidippides, a messenger, ran from Marathon to Athens to report the Greek win. Upon arrival, he shouts “Nike” (victory) and falls over dead. That’s all the proof I need that running is dangerous.
But some people cannot see the facts lying down (dead) in front of them. Since 1972, the Athen’s Classic Marathon takes place each November starting in Marathon.
It ends in the Panathenaic Stadium in Athens, the same ending spot for the 1896 and 2004 Olympic marathons.
The Marathon Race Museum has many exciting exhibits, including past Olympic torches, posters, and items from international races.
Thebes (Thiva).
Just over an hour’s drive northwest of Athens is Thebes, a Greek city from ancient times. It has no connection to the town in Egypt of the same name. Like many Greek cities, it will fall and rise numerous times under Alexander, the Normans, and more.
Today, there is The Archaeological Museum of Thebes, which houses a fair size collection of artifacts from the stone and bronze ages. The foundations of a nearby Mycenaean Palace do not reveal much but suggest there is a city underneath.
On the edge of Thebes is St. Luke, the Evangelist church. Many Christian scholars believe this is the site where the Apostle Luke was either crucified or died of old age.
His remains stay here until circa 357 when the church in Constantinople takes them. Today, his body is in Padua, his head in Prague, and there is a rib in the Thebes church.
Central Greek Mainland.
The Monastery of Hosios Loukas.
This UNESCO World Heritage Site is just over an hour’s drive west of Thebes, also in the Central Greece region. It shares the UNESCO status with the Monasteries of Daphni near Athens, and Nea Moni on the island of Chios.
Dating from the 10th century A.D., UNESCO adds it to its list due to the Middle Byzantine architecture and art. Of the three monasteries, Hosios Loukas retains more of its original frescoes, mosaics, marble wall decorations, and architectural sculptures.
Perhaps it is the 20+ minute detour off the highway between Athens and Delphi, but I never find crowds.
Delphi.
40+ minutes to the west is the UNESCO World Heritage site, Archaeological Site of Delphi. From past blogs, we know that the area can fill the better part of a day.
The archeological site and museum are the must-see attractions, but the nearby villages are also should-see sites.
Thermopylae.
An hour-plus drive north of Delphi is this small village. Just west of the town is the site of the Battle of Thermopylae. Here, in circa 480 B.C., the Spartan King Leonidas I, lead 300 Spartan soldiers in a historic last stand.
Unfortunately, there is nothing of the battle to see. A monument to Leonidas and the Spartans marks the area.
To the left is a monument to the 700 Thespians, from the Ancient Greek city of Thespiae. No, they were not actors. Who are they? They are the larger group that authors and moviemakers usually leave out of the story.
Even with them and possibly 400 Thebans, the opposing 100,000 Persians were still holding the upper hand. There is an Information center to the right of the monument. The last time I was there, information was predominantly in Greek.
Thessaly.
Due north of Thermopylae is the region of Thessaly. The mountains of Pelion and Olympus (yes, THAT Olympus) separate it from the Aegean Sea to the east. On the west, where it borders the region of Epirus, is Greece’s breadbasket.
The mountains offer incredible natural landscapes and outdoor activities. No, Olympia is not open to mortals.
Larissa, towards the east, is the capital and largest city in the region. It includes several archeological sites, some visible from the street, and an ancient theater.
Museums include one covering the Greek Resistance, folklore, and a Diachronic Museum showing Larissa through the ages.
However, the big draw to Thessaly is above the town of Kalabaka in the northwest corner.
Meteora.
The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Meteora floats in the limestone rocks overlooking the valley. If you remember from the blog, you can do Meteora from Athens by car or train as a day trip.
However, the three+ hour trip each way cuts into your time. And you miss sunrise and sunset, my two favorite times.
Epirus.
Stuck in the mountains between Thessaly and the Ionian Sea is the region of Epirus. Here you will find a variety of landscapes, including forests, beaches, gorges, and valleys.
You will not find a single UNESCO World Heritage Site, and ancient Greek ruins are few.
The Northern Pindos National Park is the largest in Greece at over 700 sq miles. It shares the region with the Tzoumerka National Park (316 sq miles). Both parks are perfect for hikers, people who love quaint hillside villages, or someone just wanting to get away.
Vikos-Aoos Geopark is not a UNESCO Heritage site, but one of five UNESCO Global Geoparks in Greece. A Geopark is a geographical area containing sites and landscapes of international geological significance.
UNESCO attempts to manage these with a holistic approach of protection, education, and sustainability.
Amvrakikos Wetlands National Park sits on one of Greece’s most enormous gulfs measuring 25 miles long by nine miles wide. Although there is a channel to the Ionian Sea, it is an enclosed body of water, creating various ecosystems.
Some of the ecosystems include marsh, mudflats, bays, reedbeds, meadows, and farmland. It is a migratory stop for over 100 varieties of birds and protects serval species facing extinction. Some of these include the Dalmatian Pelican, the Great Bittern, and the Ferruginous Duck.
The waters are home to Bottlenose dolphins, monk seals, Loggerhead sea turtles, and more.
Epirus is the forgotten child of Greece, but I think that is changing. There are Ancient Greek ruins, including five ancient theaters in various degrees of repair.
UNESCO inclusion is pending on some sites, and as more Americans discover Greece, this area will become a destination.
Northern Greek Mainland
Macedonia.
This region covers a large part of northern Greece and has subsections.
West Macedonia has many areas similar to Epirus. Dramatic landscapes for the outdoors person. However, it has even less tourism development, and there are many places where English-speaking people are hard to find.
Central Macedonia.
What West Macedonia lacks, Central makes up for ten-fold.
Thessaloniki, the culinary capital of Greece, has fourteen UNESCO World Heritage Sites. This country is Greece; they have many UNESCO sites.
The UNESCO site of Vergina is just over an hour’s drive west of Thessaloniki. Here, you can see the remains of the palace and burial chambers of King Philip of Macedonia.
The archeological site of Pella, where Philip’s son Alexander the Great was born, is less than an hour northeast. The separate Archaeological Museum of Pella (Website in Greek) is worth the drive.
The northern regions of Greece, Epirus, Macedonia, and Thrace, all have P.G.I. Status when it comes to wine. But within these large regions are several smaller P.D.O. areas
Epirus has its Zitsa P.D.O.
Macedonia has the Naousa, Amynteo, Goumenissa, and Slopes of Meliton P.D.O. Regions. A great combination with the UNESCO sites of Phillip is the nearby Naousa Wine Region.
East Macedonia and Thrace.
This region runs from east of Thessaloniki to the Turkish border, approximately 170 miles west of Istanbul.
You did not think we were ending the UNESCO sites yet, did you?
Two hours drive east of Thessaloniki is the port of Ouranoupoli, where you can catch a ferry.
The UNESCO World Heritage Site Mount Athos is on a peninsula sticking out into the Northern Aegean Sea.
The legend goes that the Virgin Mary asks her son for it as her garden. From that time, it becomes consecrated and out of bounds to all other women.
The first Eastern Orthodox monastery probably dates from circa 700 A.D. Around 1344, several monks facing persecution flee to Meteora and begin monasteries there. Today, there are 20 operating monasteries along the mountainside.
Sight-seeing boats make the round trip from Ouranoupoli along the coast.
Less than 20 miles north of Kavala is the UNESCO Archaeological Site of Philippi. This city dates from circa 356 B.C when King Philip II orders its construction. It lies along the ancient route linking Europe and Asia.
The Romans will add to it during their more than 500 years of rule.
The Apostle Paul visits and preaches of the new Christianity circa 49 A.D. The foundation of a basilica, just past the agora, indicates Paul’s effect on the city.
Kavala still has signs of its Roman occupation, and the vineyards of Drama and Kavala are a perfect half-day trip.
Greek Mainland Thoughts.
It could easily take a week to do justice to the southern, central, or northern Greek Mainland.
Greece isn’t just about Islands.
The Greek Mainland can hold its own any day of the week for food, fun, and findings.
Take a look at some of the orange links.
See if you want to skip the Greek Mainland.
See more about Delphi
Or See more about Meteora
See more about Thessaloniki.
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“Do you have any new thoughts about the Greek Mainland?”
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.