THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Milos sits in the Aegean Sea between Athens and Santorini. It has a ferry service to both. And yet, until recently, it has been able to stay off the tourist radar.
The Instagram generation is changing that.
Similar to Santorini with a volcanic origin, it has numerous landscapes that are fascinating. However, its bay is natural and not the result of a cataclysmic explosion.
The island’s history dates back to circa 2300 B.C. and includes the Minoans and Myceneans.
It has the mandatory Cycladic architecture and white walls.
The locals have time to talk while serving traditional Greek cuisine.
How did this little corner of paradise stay off the radar for so long?
Come, let’s visit Milos.
Visit Milos Port.
Adamas (Adamantas) is where the ferries arrive, and many tour boats depart.
Two large volcanos and several smaller ones create the natural bay where the port sits. There is an airport, but that’s not nearly as scenic.
Like any ferry port, you will find cafés, tavernas, shops, markets, and lower-cost hotels. If you are looking for nightlife, what exists will be in this area. You will find a few clubs and tavernas with local music.
Church of Agios Haralambos.
The church overlooks Adamas from its hilltop location. It is the largest church in this part of the island. There are some good sunset vistas from this area.
Ecclesiastical Museum of Milos – Church of the Holy Trinity.
The museum is inside the Church, hence the long name. It is a 5-minute walk from the ferry pier. Inside, the relics date back to the 14th century showing the island’s history through the church’s eyes.
Milos Mining Museum.
A ten-minute walk south of the ferry pier is this small but interesting museum to the island’s mineral past. Unfortunately, the signage is all in Greek. However, there are audio guides in English and other languages.
Visit Milo’s Plaka.
At the top of the hill behind Adamas is the capital of Milos.
The Plaka is almost all pedestrian streets, meaning you have to park and walk to it.
You will find bustling squares, wonderful architecture, museums, souvenir shops, tavernas, and guesthouses through the narrow white-washed streets.
Venetian Castle of Milos.
200 steps above the Kastro, on the second-highest peak on Milos, is the only remains from the Venetians. Dating from the 13th century, it will also serve the Ottomans and Nazis. The church on the hill and the castle are popular for sunsets.
Church of Panagia Korfiatissa.
Commanding a view over the bay, this is the cathedral of Milos. Dating from 1820, they use parts of the Plaka’s old churches to build this one. The church has numerous icons, one dating to the 15th century. Its terrace is popular for sunsets.
Triovasalos.
This suburb of Plaka to the east has many accommodations that have parking on-site or nearby. However, it has only a few restaurants and markets in comparison to Plaka or Adamas. If you’re O.K. not being within walking distance of sites, it’s a good location.
Saint Spiridon Orthodox church.
This Greek Orthodox church is possibly the only photo stop in Triovasalos. Its clock tower is a favorite subject of photographers.
Tripiti (Trypiti.)
Just below Plaka to the south, it is confusing where one area ends and the other begins. However, by my next visit, I imagine they will all be together.
Catacombs of Milos.
Just below the Plaka, in the area of ancient Melos, are the Christian catacombs dating from the first century A.D. These caverns are early churches where Christians would meet, pray, and bury their dead. Unfortunately, of the three currently known chambers, only one is open for viewing.
Ancient Theater of Melos.
Sitting on the site of a previous Greek theater from the Hellenistic period is this Roman theater. The Romans rebuild it with marble. In the summer, performances still take place. Parking is for the theater and catacombs.
The Venus de Milo.
That statue without arms in the Louvre museum is an imposter. She is a Greek statue from the Hellenistic period (323 BC – until the emergence of the Roman Empire.) This means she could not be Venus, a Roman goddess, who didn’t exist until later.
Many believe she is Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of beauty. However, she may be Amphitrite, a Greek goddess and wife of Poseidon, who is popular on Milos and Poros.
Other statues from Milos include the Asclepius of Milo. This head from an enormous statue of the Greek god of medicine is in the British Museum.
The marble statue of Poseidon and the Equestrian General are both in the National Archaeological Museum, Athens.
These statues are of Parian marble (from Poros and the best in Greece) and from the Hellenistic period.
In storefronts in the Plaka, you can find smaller versions with unique color schemes.
On the walk to the ancient theater, you will see the spot where they rediscover the statue. It is above the ancient Melos stadium, which is still waiting for excavation.
Visit Milos’s Fishing Villages.
Klima.
What once was a charming fishing village is today an Instagram destination. There is no beach to speak of and no nightlife outside of a few tavernas. It is on the coast, below Tripiti.
Boathouses (syrmata).
At one time, these colorful small fisherman houses were also their office. The boats and fishing gear would be in the lower “garage” while the home was upstairs. A few are still private residences, but many are now shops and guesthouses. Expect waves of photographers in the daytime.
Mandrakia.
Just north of Triovasalos on the coast is this authentic fishing village that is still that. There are no shops and only one (good) restaurant here. As a result, there is usually less of a crowd for dinner—just a small cove with boathouses around it. I would call it a Kodak moment, but it is Instagramable.
Pollonia.
At the northeast end of Milos is this small fishing village which is becoming a touristy area. Here, you can find small hotels and guesthouses.
There are several eateries, look for the locals eating, and shops for tourists. In the summer, some tavernas have nighttime entertainment near the ferry terminal. The ferry to nearby Kimolos Island, which you can see, departs from the southern end of town. The trip takes approximately 30-minutes.
I can always find a locals restaurant with fresh seafood here.
Archaeological Site of Phylakopi.
Five minutes drive west of Pollonia is this important site from the prehistoric Aegean Period (3300-1100 B.C.) Luckily, there is good signage, and you can identify parts of the wall, parts of the sanctuary, and the megaron. Unfortunately, the sea is claiming more bits of the settlement yearly.
Visit Milos Beaches.
Although the island has over 70 beaches, not that many are great for sunning. Several are worth visiting just for the photo. Millions of years of volcanic activity leave a unique coastline and cliffside. Aquashoes or an old pair of sneakers is a great idea as almost all beaches have some pebbles or rocks.
Sarakiniko Beach.
By far, the most popular beach on Milos to photograph really isn’t a beach. There is a small patch of sand. But people come to photograph and jump from the white moon-like volcanic rock into the turquoise water. There are no facilities or permanent services. Occasionally a snack truck is in the parking lot. Treat this as a photo, jumping in the water stop.
Kleftiko Beach.
Another photographic stop due to millions of years of erosion. The best way to reach this “beach” is by boat. I have never seen any sand, but the natural caves and rare geological formations more than make up for it. Needless to say, no services or facilities on land.
Cave of Sykia.
This is one of the few sea caves they do not try to pass off as a beach. A boat is the only way to reach the cave. Luckily, it is usually a stop on the boat trip to Kleftiko. What makes it most interesting is that the cave dome is missing. This creates a stone bowl your small boat can pass into.
Firiplaka Beach.
On the south shore, you can drive to it, and there is actually sand. Still, American feet will probably appreciate aqua shoes. There are chairs and umbrellas for rent, food and drink, and facilities.
Panagia tou Kipou Church.
If you drive as far as Firiplaka, also check out this church 15-minutes west. Dating from the 5th century A.D., it is one of the oldest Byzantine churches on the island. Take in the beautiful sea views as well. If you are in the area around sunset, there are great vistas in this area.
Tsigrado Beach.
Not even a 5-minute drive from the parking area at Firiplaka is this Instagram Beach. I call it an Instagram beach because photos are the main reason to visit. Also, the access down 2 questionable wooden ladders and pulling yourself along a rope is for thrill-seekers. The beach is tiny, and rocks fall onto it from above without notice. I suggest a Kodak moment from a boat.
Papafragas Cave Beach.
On the road to Pollonia is another “beach” for photos and swimming, but very little sand. A natural archway connects this narrow channel to the sea.
Visit Milos Summary.
As you can see, Milos has much to offer.
The mining of volcanic minerals is still a major part of the economy. The natural beauty of the rock, soil, and minerals is just a plus.
Historic sites cover prehistoric, Greek, Roman, early Christian, Venetian, and other periods.
The locals are charming and actually have time to talk while serving traditional Greek cuisine.
Part of immersion includes the people and their food.
What’s not to like?
Come, it’s time to visit Milos before the mobs descend.
Want to read more about Milos? Click here.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.
White buildings and blue skies, and the colorful fishing villages which remind me of a box of crayola crayons – just beautiful! Again, a lovely Sunday morning tour!
A whole new area I have never heard of – but so would love to see!!
Milo’s has a fascinating history that is ripe for exploration due to it’s isolation from the tourist mobs. I am amazed by the splendor of Sarakiniko Beach and the boat houses of Klima. It looks like a colorful island to just get lost in the Greek vibe.