Table of Contents:
ERMOUPOLIS SYROS
SEE ANO SYROS
THE ISLAND.
After seeing Syros, you will wonder why you went to the over-crowded islands.
The administrative center for the Cycladic Islands, Syros, sits somewhat in the middle of many of them. From Syros, you can see several other islands on a clear day.
Not overrun by large cruise ships and massive charter groups, you will quickly see Syros is popular with vacationing Greeks.
See Ermoupolis.
Syros Port.
Starting at the east end of town is the pier/breakwater separating the harbor from the sea. A walk to the end offers great photos of the town with Ano Syros above it or to watch the boats coming and going.
Unknown Sailor Square.
This memorial garden, adjacent to a public parking lot, is home to a monument by John Buchanan honoring the Greek seamen. Other sculptures in the park include The Solar Watch, an oversized sculpture of a sundial. Pherecydes of Syros (6th century B.C.) is thought to have created the first sundial.
Customs House.
The elegant two-story marble building was first built in 1860 as the first building you come to when arriving by sea. It still operates as the customs house, so please admire it only from the outside.
Gallery of the Cyclades.
Just north of the Customs House are two rows of buildings that used to be warehouses dating from circa 1834. Today, four of the storehouses make up the Gallery of the Cyclades, a public space that hosts exhibitions,
Lazareta.
At the south end of the port, on the left, as you sail in, are a few remains from bygone days in the Lazareta neighborhood.
Eastern Telegraph Company Building.
On the waterfront, this two-story building represents the cable history of the Greek Islands. starting with the first submarine cable between Syros-Piraeus in 1859. Today, the building, much of which was rebuilt after World War II, sits empty, begging for a telegraph museum.
Mnimio Filakon – Lazaretto Quarantine Hospital ruins.
Just above the Telegraph building are the ruins of the quarantine hospital. This sprawling site is a ghost of its former self. Although they finally gave it historical status, there are no plans to restore it.
Syros Airport.
Numerous flights connect the island with the Athens airport, approximately 35 minutes flying time to the north. (The fast ferry is approximately 2 hours +) All flights to the Greek Islands connect through Athens.
Industrial Museum of Ermoupolis.
Just west of the Lazaretto area, while driving into town, is this small but interesting museum for those interested in industry. The museum is in an old tannery building and shows Syros’ history from an interesting angle.
Syros Textile Museum.
Just off Ir. Politechniou, down a narrow alley across from the supermarket, is (supposedly) a textile museum in a restored textile factory.
See Downtown Ermoupoli (Hermes’ town.)
The north end of the harbor has a paved promenade along the waterfront. A street with two names, Aktí Papágou on the west and Coast Petrou Ralli on the east, separates the promenade from the endless rows of cafes. Behind the cafes are the endless souvenir shops and travel agencies.
The streets change names where they meet at El. Venizelou. This impressive marble street leads away from the waterfront and is one of only a few allowing vehicle traffic.
National Resistance Monument.
Where El. Venizelou meets the promenade is this bronze statue of a winged Nike goddess on a marble base. It is dedicated to the soldiers, armed and unarmed, who fought against the German/Italian occupation of Greece during World War II.
Miaouli Square.
At the north end of El. Venizelou is this lovely square. The current name comes from a hero of the Greek War of Independence, Admiral Andreas Miaoulis. His statue stands in the middle of the square.
Town Hall of Ermoupolis.
Towering over the square is the impressive three-story town hall. Dating from 1876, it it one of the largest town halls in Greece. It serves as the administrative center for the Cycladic and Dodecanese islands.
Archaeological Museum of Syros.
As you face the town hall on the left end (west) of the building is the entrance to the museum at the top of the stairs. Taking up four rooms in the town hall, it has a varied collection of artifacts found on Syros.
Apollon Theater.
Up the hill to the right (east) of the town hall is this plain two-story theater. But do not let the outside fool you; the inside is called the little La Scala. With a design by the Italian architect Pietro Sampò, the theater has presented shows since 1864. (Click on the orange link for a performance schedule)
Vaporia District.
To the right of the theater and further up the hill is this charming neighborhood, once the location of the wealthy ship owner’s mansions. Today, many of the mansions are elegant boutique hotels. Many are seasonal.
Church of Agios Nikolaos.
Agios Nikolaos (Saint Nicholas) is the patron saint of Syros. The construction taking place in the wealthy neighborhood guaranteed that no corners would be cut. Dating from 1870, it includes King Otto and Queen Olga as benefactors.
More a cement pier than a beach, this seaside location almost always has some sun lovers on it if the weather agrees. From here, you can get the “money shot” of Agios Nikolaos.
Above the beach and behind Agios Nikolaos you can find many of the Captain houses now serving as hotels.
Anástasis (Church of the Resurrection of Christ)
On the highest hill in Ermoupolis sits this magnificent temple dedicated to the “Resurrection of the nation.” Dating from 1874, this Byzantine-style church took decades to finish. The interior and the views over Ermoupolis are worth the trek.
The town has enough to see to fill the better part of a day, making a great base for exploring the island. And the island is worth exploring.
See Ano (Upper) Syros.
Dating from the Byzantine times, this traditional Greek hilltop town was a sanctuary from pirates.
High on a hill is this former municipality of Syros, which is now part of the municipality Syros-Ermoupoli.
It is the typical cycladic medieval settlement, complete with a maze of narrow roads following a radial street plan.
Ano Syros is inhabited more by Catholic Greeks as the Latin Empire (Roman Catholic) was prevalent during its early days.
Today, the former houses are overrun with art studios, boutiques, and cafes. There are two major pedestrian entrances to Ano Syros. There are no vehicles in the town.
Upper Part of Ano Syros.
Two hairpin turns on the main road offer limited parking outside the pedestrian entrances. From the upper entrance, you can easily access the following sites:
Cathedral of San Georgio.
Visible from just about anywhere on the south or eastern side of Syros, this Roman Catholic cathedral sits atop Ano Syros like a crown.
There has been a church here since about 1200 A.D. The Roman Catholic church moved in circa 1652 and never left. Much of the building you see today dates from 1834.
Chapel of Saint Michael.
This small chapel is hidden in the upper part of Ano Syros. Luckily, it has very good signage to help you find it. It is especially photographic at sunset.
Windmill.
Just up the road from the hairpin is a restored Cycladic windmill. Today, it serves as an overnight accommodation.
See the Lower Part of Ano Syros.
Entering from the lower hairpin curve, you find a maze of small pedestrian streets. The lower part has many more cases and shops than the upper part.
Around each corner, you will find another Kodak moment and more stairs.
Those up for climbing the many staircases between Upper and lower Ano Syros may stumble across The Monastery of Capuchin in Ano Syros dating from the 1600s, the Jesuit Monastery of Syros from the 1700s to newer churches only 200 years old.
Smart, comfortable walking shoes are a must. At night, several places feature the distinctive Syros music style rebetiko, also known as Greek blues.
See Syros Villages.
Vari.
Vari and its beach are one of the most popular villages on the island, partly because of its proximity to town and the airport. This protected cove on the south shore has calm waters, making it ideal for families with small children, while the village offers everything the larger “kids” need.
Megas Gialos.
Just over three miles to the west of Vari is this scenic coastal village with a wide range of hotels and cafes. The beach is small but has a sand-to-pebble ratio that is not hard on the feet. Outside of looking at the water, there is little to view here except maybe the local church.
See Poseidonia.
This is a big beach resort village, but only in comparison to other villages on Syros. There are three small beaches right in town: Poseidonia, Voulgari, and Paralia Finikas. Is one better than the rest? Not that I can tell, so I would recommend the one closest walking distance from your accommodation for an hour or so.
If you want to make a day at the beach, head south of town to Agathopes Beach. The beach is a little larger and also offers water sports rentals. A little further south is Komito Beach, which is usually less crowded and rocky.
Galissas.
Similar to Megas Gialos, small but with accommodations and cafes. Sitting on a natural cove, it has the required beach and other tourist services. Just over three miles north of Posideonia
Galissas Beach.
In my opinion, one of the nicer beaches on Syros, it still isn’t the sugary white sands of Florida. The brown sand and pebble mixture is more sand than pebbles, and in season, there are chairs and umbrellas for rental.
Chapel of Santa Pakú (Obbedienza).
This small Catholic Chapel sits predominantly on a hill over the Bay of Galissas. The traditional white and blue church is small, with only four benches inside. It is best captured on film from a distance, as you can only see its roof from the beach road below. Access is from the beach road via a stone staircase just past the pool club. The view is worth the climb.
See Kini.
This once-quiet fishing village is becoming a main tourist attraction.
You can still see the fishing boats moored in the bay or take a sightseeing boat to other spots along the coast. The village of Kini is full of taverns and cafes just across from the beach. Ammomadations are within walking distance.
The Dormition (assumption) of the Virgin is celebrated all over Greece on August 15th. The village of Kini lights up the outside of houses with lanterns (fotarides) made from tin cans. The children decorate the beach with fotarides, and there is live music and dancing outside.
“Panagia Gorgona” Mermaid statue & fountain.
Near the middle of the beach is a mermaid statue holding a fisherman in her arms. The mermaid is Panagia Gorgona, the patroness mermaid of the fishermen.
Monastery of Santa Barbara. (Agia Varvara)
On the cross-island road between Kini and Ermoupoli, near the “top of the pass,” is this Holy Monastery dating from 1900. The monastery’s nuns weave fabrics on original looms and sell their work to raise money for the monastery. Over the years, the monastery has also included an orphanage and nursery. The view over Kini is impressive.
See Apano Meria, The Northern End of Syros.
Unfortunately, no great ruins have been discovered here intact, and therefore, not a lot of money has been invested into excavating. That does not mean there is no ancient history here.
It means along with a good guidebook and GPS, you need to bring some imagination. This area is accessible either by boat from Kini or by an approximately one-hour hiking path down from the end of the road in Kampos. (That which goes down…)
Archaeological Site of Grammata.
On the northwest coast of the island is a bay that, from ancient times, has been a place of shelter for boats in bad weather. In the adjacent rocks are chiseled their prayers for safety. These Grammata (letters) date from ancient times to the Middle Ages.
Americanou Beach (Gria Spilia Beach).
On the other side of the bay from the letters is this secluded beach which you need hiking boots or a boat to reach. When packing, remember a suit. From what I saw, several people had forgotten theirs. Besides its seclusion, the beach is unique for its vegetation.
See Kastri
Kastri is a prehistoric settlement uncovered along the northeastern coast of Syros.
Dating from approximately 2700-2300 B.C., this nearly five-acre settlement is one of the most important discoveries in Greece from the Early Cycladic Period.
You can see many of these finds in the Archaeological Museum of Syros in the town hall.
In Athens, you can also examine some of the Syros finds at the Museum of Cycladic Art and the National Archaeological Museum.
The hike to Kastri is considered a moderately challenging route over uneven terrain. At times, the path disappears, and there is no shade. It is over a mile each way and begins at the prehistoric site of Chalandriani.
See Ancient Chalandriani.
This is another important Early Cycladic Period settlement on Syros that you can reach with a short hike. Unfortunately, it is largely unexcavated. What has been unearthed are two sections of its ancient cemetery, to date, the largest cemetery from the Bronze Age discovered in the Cyclades. More than 600 graves have been unearthed, and their treasures are on display at the same museums as the Kastri finds.
Chatzakis Winery.
There has been wine making in the Apano Meria region for thousands of years. Starting circa 2011, the Chatzakis winery began blending new vines with some old vines. Currently, they bottle two different varieties of white, and one rose. Visits are possible with a reservation that can be made on their website (orange link).
There are other wineries on the island. However, most do not have visits available yet.
See Syros Summary.
Although not a list of everything there is to do on Syros, this should give you a good start.
The lack of things to do (compared to islands with numerous sites and cruise ships) is part of the draw. There are fewer hawkers trying to sell you something and restaurants with menus in seven languages.
Hopefully, you can start to understand the charm of this island. So close to the mass tourism islands and yet a world away.
Come and see Syros, and learn why it is a favorite of vacationing Greeks.