THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION
Roma, the city of seven hills, the Imperial section, the historical, and the Vatican City.
Rome, where you go for Italian fashion, Italian cars, and Italians.
So why can’t you find Italian food? WHAT?
In Roma, you find Roman (Romano) food.
Similar to us having Southern, Northern, and even Tex-Mex versions of “American” food, Italy also has regional cuisine.
So instead of Italian, Rome has “Roman” (Romano) food.
Italy also has Milanese, Florentine, Neapolitan, Bolognaise, etc. you get the idea.
So when in Rome, don’t waste time looking for Italian but sit down and taste Roma through its cooking.
Taste Roma History
Where did Romano cuisine begin? Yes, the Greeks were a significant contributor. They bring pasta, a staple that lasts indefinitely, as they travel west exploring. They also carry wine and wine-making methods.
During the Roman Republic and Empire, they are exporting products from Gaul, Greece, Africa, and Asia. Foodstuffs and also spices.
Then in fourteen hundred ninety-two, Columbus sails the ocean blue. He returns with many new items that soon spread to the noble palaces and Pope’s residence.
These include corn, potato, pepper, vanilla, tobacco, beans, pumpkin, peanut, pecan, cashew, pineapple, blueberry, cacao (chocolate), gourds, and more. One that catches on in Italy is the tomato.
Taste Roman Cuisine of the Poor
Rome has a vast working class that works tirelessly for a few cents a day. They learn to stretch their money as far as they can.
Surprisingly, many of the recipes of Old Rome come from the working class and the poor. They are, for the most part, simple recipes taking advantage of what they had. Imagine, you can taste food in Rome today, that has the same taste from hundreds of years ago.
Mangia il Matzah.
There is also a strong Jewish influence on the local cuisine. Jews began settling in Rome after their exile from Judah by Roman invaders in the 6th century BC.
In 1555 AD., the Pope puts them in a ghetto and takes away their personal belongings. This move makes them more resilient. Instead of assimilating into the Roman population, their traditions and cooking continue. As a result, they learn to make the most of what they can get in their hands.
Many of the best dishes in Rome, Italy, even Europe come from these simple recipes of desperation.
A Heart and Head for Roma Cooking.
Rome’s Testaccio district is not too far from the ghetto area. In antiquity, it was the receiving port for all the goods coming from Ostia Antica. (The seaport for Rome).
As the importing of animals also took place through Testaccio, this area was the location of the slaughterhouses.
It is the neighborhood of the hardworking, yet poor Roman. For this reason, “recycling” of any foodstuffs is a way of survival. As a result, all the scraps from the butchers quickly make their way into stews and other dishes.
Over several hundred years, these dishes become traditional. This area is now a culinary hangout for locals and those wanting to taste Rome from a different time. And yes, they still use ALL parts of the animal.
What is That Taste?
Roman recipes feature local fresh ingredients and slow preparation. In restaurants catering to locals, dishes are seasonal.
While in restaurants catering to tourists, you can get “seasonal” dishes year-round.
As a result, Roman recipes take time. It is not unusual to cook today for later in the week.
When you sample Rome’s culinary treats, you should taste fresh as well as tradition. Also, just a little touch of grandmother’s (Nonna’s) love in every bite.
Roma Apperativo.
Suggestions:
- Bruschetta – probably comes from Greece and begins as a simple way to sample the olive oil. The word Bruschetta is a Romanesco word for bread, which they slightly burn. Try it with Lazio olive oil and local tomato. Do I mean, Roma tomato? NO, those only grow in the United States, Mexico, Great Britain, and Australia.
- Supplì – you will likely find in a street stand. It is a rice ball (croquette), which they stuff with beef ragout and mozzarella before frying.
Roma Meat.
Meat is a significant player in the Lazio cuisine stemming from Roman times. The locals eat offal or the rest of the cow after steak. Of the 100+ local markets in the city, the market in Testaccio is the best for finding offal. This market is also an excellent place for having a progressive meal of local produce and other meats.
- Coda alla vaccinara – is almost beef. Oxtail stew includes a rich tomato-base, flavorful vegetables, pancetta, and a splash of red wine.
Veal
Suggestions:
- Saltimbocca alla Romana – this Rome-style veal has prosciutto and sage in the middle or around the outside. They marinate it in wine, before slow-roasting.
- Scaloppine alla Romana – are thin slices of veal they saute with lemon and fresh baby artichokes.
Pork
Suggestions:
- Porchetta di Ariccia has P.G.I. Status. The original recipe may date back to the local priests placing an offering like this at the temple of Giove. It is a boneless pork belly they coat with garlic, herbs, pepper, and sea salt. After rolling it up, they slowly roast it using wine for basting.
Lamb
Suggestions:
- Abbacchio alla cacciatora – are lamb chops they flour and cook in oil and vinegar. That add flavors with garlic, sage, anchovies, and rosemary.
- Abbacchio allo scottadito (burned fingers) – are chops they grill and are so good, you pick them up with your fingers.
- Abbacchio al Forno – are lamb chops they roast with potatoes.
Roma Seafood?
People do not associate Rome with seafood. Yet the Mediterranian Ocean and the ancient port for Rome is less than 20 miles to the west.
Suggestions:
- Baccalà at Dar Filettaro – is a treasure from the Jewish ghetto. They fry salted cod in an egg-based batter.
- Anchovies, – you will find them lightly fried or marinated.
For more traditional seafood recipes, visit the small villages along the coast where you see fishing boats.
Taste Roma’s Pasta.
First, it was the imperial city, then the capital of Italy. Rome lays claim to many things, including several kinds of pasta and sauces.
Where was this pasta, or that noodle used first? It depends on who you ask.
The same with the sauce and that makes sense. If you have 100 Italian mothers in a room, you have at least 100 recipes for a tomato sauce.
Rome’s take on classic “red sauce” includes San Marzano tomatoes, guanciale, white wine, and Pecorino Romano.
There is one exception. Alfredo is the invention of the chef of the Alfredo alla Scrofa restaurant. But that is one of the few places you will find it in Rome or even Italy. It is not traditional or popular with Italians.
Pasta dishes, Rome is famous for include:
Suggestions:
- Cacio e Pepe (cheese and pepper) – uses pecorino romano cheese and black pepper. How much of each? It depends on the chef. Which noodle do you use? The same answer, although long fresh pasta such as spaghetti, linguine, or tonnarelli are most popular.
- Bucatini all’ Amatriciana – is pasta with tomato sauce, guanciale, (Italian cured pork), and Pecorino Romano.
Some chefs use pancetta instead of guanciale. Others add garlic and maybe onions. If you wish to leave sans knife in your chest, neither ask or offer a comment to which is right.
- Spaghetti alla Carbonara – is a pasta dish dating from the end of WWII. To make the sauce, they whip eggs and add Italian bacon, pepper, and grated Pecorino Romano. There’s a strong possibility it is from what provisions were readily available after the war.
Pizza Romana
I do not eat a lot of pizza in Rome since pizza is from Naples. If you must have pizza, you will find the Rome crust is thinner, crisper, and lighter than its Neapolitan cousin.
Taste Roma’s Produce.
The soil in Lazio is fertile, and in places includes volcanic mix. They grow/produce several hundred products in the area. Some of the best produce includes:
Fagiolo Cannellino di Atina PDO – is an Italian kidney bean.
Peperone di Pontecorvo” PDO – is a famous sweet red pepper with a thin skin.
Carciofo Romanesco P.G.I. – also goes by the name Roman Artichoke.
Suggestions:
- Carciofi alla romana – are whole artichokes they fill with minced garlic and parsley and saute in olive oil.
- Carciofi alla giudia – are the Jewish style artichokes which they fill with chili peppers and deep fry.
Taste Roma’s Cheese.
Pecorino Romano D.O.C. – is the king of sheep cheeses. This hard, salty cheese from sheep’s milk is famous for grating.
Pecorino of Picinisco P.D.O. – has a slightly different taste. Compare.
Mozzarella di Bufala Campana P.D.O. – is a soft cheese coming from buffalo milk. Similar to other mozzarella but not the same.
Ricotta Romana P.D.O. – This soft white cheese from whole sheep’s milk has a sweet flavor. Best when it is fresh.
There are many kinds of cheese in Lazio worth trying even if they are not to P.D.O. Status yet.
Roma Sweets.
You can find gelato on every street corner, but it is not “from” Rome.
- Grattachecca is Italy’s answer to the snow-cone. Traditionally, they hand-shave the ice and then flavor it with sweet syrups.
From the Bakery or La Pasticceria
In Rome, you can find small individual pastries called pasticcini at the pasticceria (pa stee cher EE a.)
The mini-size is a Rome thing, but many of the recipes are from other parts of Italy.
- Maritozzo – began as a sweet bun many years ago. By the middle ages, they were adding raisins, pine nuts, and candied fruits. In the 1800s, it becomes the Maritozzo, which means husband in Italian. Potential newlyweds would give them to their bride-to-be. The inside has a large dollop of cream.
- Crostata (tart) di ricotta – Is the Roman version of cheesecake. They mix ricotta, with citrus flavors (lemon or orange) and Marsala wine
- Crostata di Visciole – is a tart with a layer of ricotta and local sour cherries. The filling is a wild cherry jam, so do not let “sour” put you off. Usually, there is a lattice top.
Taste Roma Summary
Rome has so many different culinary treats to sample. Even as you go from one neighborhood to the other, recipes or preparations change.
So many people try to see Rome in a day. You know they are not stopping to eat anything local or traditional.
And the list above is just a start. The Romans have been working on it for almost 3,000 years.
If you want to immerse yourself in this fascinating city, then you must taste Rome.
Wish to dive deeper? Taste Italy.
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3 “Taste the World” Continued on T11