RHODES GREECE

BACK TO GREECE

Table of Contents: 
NOT SO ANCIENT.
SHOULD SEE RHODES.
OUTSIDE RHODES TOWN.

TASTE RHODES.

SEE RHODES.

Rhodes is somewhat of a forgotten island. What a shame. It is the furthest away from mainland Greece and the last stop on any ferry route. When the cruise lines catering to US guests stop going to Turkey, they also drop Rhodes. It is not near other Greek ports that will sell a cruise. It is a favorite port on the way to/from Israel and Egypt. Those cruises are also few and far between. So Rhodes’s weak point is location, location, location.

But that’s about the only weak point it has. And with its international airport, geography isn’t that important either. The island is an hours flight from Athens.

Ancient Rhodes.

Greek Mythology says the Rhodians were from the Telchine children, a species with flippers for hands and dog heads. Their specialty was working metals. With their…fins? More believable is that the island was the child of Helios (the sun god) and the nymph Rhodos. The Rhoda is a pink hibiscus, native to the island. Greek Mythology is the only proof I need that Greeks were making wine centuries before anyone else.

A few farming remnants dating from the Neolithic period, (circa 10,000 B.C. – 4,500 B.C.) show Rhodes has some history. But there are few of them, and they do not tell us much more.

What little we know of the Minoans tells us they came to Rhodes around 1600 B.C. It does not tell us what they did, and there is little to study.

By the 15th century B.C., Mycenaeans from the mainland invade Rhodes.  They remain until the collapse of the Mycenaean kingdoms around 1150 B.C.  Greece, Including Rhodes, plunges into the Greek Dark Ages. A period of time with little to no information. It runs until around 900 B.C. Cypriots plant their flag first.

Who is Invading This Week?

The Dorians, (from northern Greece and the Peloponesse) invade the few settlements around 800 B.C. On the island of Rhodes they build the cities of Lindos, (SE) Ialyssos (N) and Kameiros (NW). They also establish a town on the nearby island of Kos. On the Turkish mainland adjacent to Kos, they create Cnidus and Halicarnassus (now Bodrum.) These six cities they call the Dorian Hexapolis.

There are a few devastating earthquakes and some pesky Phoenicians trying to capture Ialyssos. Outside of that, the Dorians hold on to Rhodes for the next 250 years.

Around 500is B.C.the Persians invade, and Athens comes to the rescue. In 478, the cities join the Athenian league, safety in numbers. They pay their dues, but never really join forces and by 408 B.C.  decide to build their league.

They build the city of Rhodes, with a harbor, to house their navy. All goes well, for about 50 years.

In 357 BC, troops from Caria, north of Halicarnassus on the mainland, seize the Rhodian cities. Their enemy, the Persians, conquer the Carians in 340 BC.

Who Can Save Them?

A big can of whoop_ss is marching down the west coast of Turkey. By 332 B.C. he is knocking on the Persians door. His name is Alexander the Great.

He makes short order of the Persians, claims the area for himself and moves on.

The extremely healthy, 33-year-old Alexander, suddenly dies after his generals make him dinner one night in 323. These same three generals, Ptolemy, Seleucus, and Antigonus, waste no time dividing up Alexander’s empire between them.

After Alexander

The Greek islands are not prizes, (you can’t march to them) so the generals ignore them.

Rhodes develops itself into an important commercial port. It allies with Ptolemy in Egypt. In a short time, they are controlling the trade between the Aegean and Mediterranian. Rhodes is enjoying Greece’s Golden Age. It becomes a prominent cultural center, as well.

When you are successful, someones going to get jealous. In this case, it is General Antigonus who sends his son to do his dirty work. He wants to destroy Rhodes and control the Aegean since he gave himself Turkey when dividing up Alexander’s empire.

He spares no expense, throwing battering rams, siege towers, and unlimited men at Rhodes. And still, he can’t defeat them. Within a year he signs a peace agreement and sails home leaving the arms and equipment behind. Rhodes has a yard sale and uses the money to build a famous statue to the sun god Helios.

The colossal statue (over 100 feet high) would become one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.  It would stand, in, over, next to, within sight of, the harbor for 54 years. Depends on which “expert” you ask. Don’t even get them going on what the building materials are. In 226, a great earthquake takes it out. If fell forward, backward, got down on one knee, did the Charleston before falling in the harbor, or on land.

Out There On Their Own

Rhode attempts to keep its independence and control over the grain trade in the eastern Mediterranean. The way to do this is to make sure the Antigonids, Seleucids, and Ptolemies, do not achieve dominance. Using their economy and navy, they can keep everyone in check for about 100 years.

Unfortunately, the Ptolemaic power in Egypt begins to crumble around 204 B.C. Philip V, king of Antigonid Macedon, and Antiochus III, king of Seleucid Asia, smell blood. Rhodes can put a temporary peace in place using the size of their navy as “motivation”. However, Phillip and Antiochus have more massive armies, and the scale is tipping. Rhodes needs more troops, so they reach out to the Roman Republic in 201.

The Romans, in what appears to be an act not like them, withdraw from Greece. This move allows Antiochus to swoop in and gather Philip’s lands. The Romans come back and smash Antiochus and his troops. By 188 B.C., there is no one in Rome’s way to the east and south. Rhode receives territory and enhanced status with Rome for assisting its move into Asia.

In 171, Perseus, the King of the remains of Macedon, tries to win back their land. Rhodes remains neutral and tries to approach both sides for peace. By 168, it is over, and Rome remains on top. Many in the Roman Senate feel Rhodes should have immediately sided with Rome. To bring her in line, they make Rhodes an ally, taking away her independence.

At first, this is not a bad marriage. Rhodes became a destination for Roman noble families. It is a cultural place for the adults and an important educational center for the young.

Rhodes enjoys many privileges because of this.

The Beginning of the End

However, the Roman Republic is in its last throws. Rome is becoming more dangerous as politicians fight, steal, and grab to advance themselves.  Cassius, the one behind Ceasar’sassassination, brother-in-law to Brutus, and all-around nice guy, seizes power. In 43 B.C. they set out to punish anyone who was an ally of Ceasar and to kill Marc Anthony. One of the first targets is Rhodes, which they sack and make it a place for political exiles.

Around 31 BC, Herod the Great (73 – 4 BC), the King of Roman Judea, had a problem. He is a supporter of Anthony, who Augustus defeats that year. He comes to Rhodes to profess his loyalty to Augustus, who will soon be emperor. As a sign of this, he rebuilds the temple of Apollo Pythios, a victim of Cassius, 12 years earlier.

In 27 B.C. Augustus comes to power, cleans out the Senate, and begins the Roman Empire.

(BACK TO TOP)

Not So Ancient, Rhodes.

Rhodes is no longer on Rome’s dartboard, and things begin to return to pre-Cassius ways.

Tiberius was living on Rhodes from 6 A.D. to 14 A.D. in what he was hoping was retirement. That did not happen, and he becomes Emperor and returns to Rome.

Around 57 A.D. the Apostle Paul stops at Rhodes on his return to Jerusalem after his third missionary journey. He stays for one day or several weeks. Depends on who you ask as there does not seem to be any history of supporting either. Christianity is spreading through Greece at this time.

By the beginning of the 3rd century, Rhodes is once again an important port and island.

Splitsville

Around 324 A.D. Constantine splits the Roman Empire by moving his capital to Byzantium, today’s Istanbul. They rename it Constantinople. The new eastern part of the Roman Empire is the Byzantine Empire. Rhodes now reports to this capital. Rhodes becomes the capital of the Islands province, which consists of most of the Aegean islands. 

The Navy continues to grow, and by 600 A.D., their maritime laws are in use throughout the Mediterranian.

Then in 628, the Sasanian (Persian) navy, captures Rhodes.  They occupy the island and possibly carry off the remains of the Colossus.

In 673, the Arabs, trying to seize Constantinople, take Rhodes for its strategic location. They depart in 680 under a peace treaty, and the Byzantines are back. For about 400 years, Rhodes remains under the Byzantines and is a major center for shipbuilding and commerce.

In 1090, the Seljuk Turks occupied the island. The Byzantines take it back five years later during the First Crusade.

Leo Gabalas is already a successful magnate on Rhodes. He and his brother proclaim themselves in charge. Due to their power, no one contests them.

That is until 1248 when the Kingdom of Genoa (Genoese) take control during their attempt to rule the Aegean.

Two years later, the Empire of Nicaea, forming from the remnants of the Byzantine empire, takes control. Their first act is restoring the Byzantine Empire in Constantinople In 1261.

The Byzantines employ the pirate Andrea Morisco, to help fend the waters from the Venetians and Turks. As a reward, he receives Rhodes, Karpathos, and Kasos as fiefs. This award is only on paper as, by 1300, Rhodes has become an Anatolian principality. This change does not last long.

The Knights to the Rescue.

By 1310, the Byzantine and the Anatolians leave as the Knights Hospitaller arrives from Jerusalem.

The Knights Hospitaller began in Jerusalem in 1023. Its purpose is to provide care for sick, weak, or injured pilgrims visiting the Holy Land. At this time, Jerusalem is under the control of the Shia Islamic who allow Jews and Christians some religious freedoms.

 

A little Side Story

The Catholic Church is not happy with this arrangement. They hire the military for taking back the Holy Lands. During the First Crusade in 1099, they take Jerusalem. The church liking the power makes the Knights a military, religious order under its Papal charter.

They remain in Jerusalem and protect pilgrims from highwaymen. Their first headquarters is on the Temple Mount. They become known as the Templar Knights. They work with the Knights Hospitaller, but from the start, they are two different organizations with different goals.

By 1129, Saint Bernard of Clairvaux puts his plan in play. He convinces a group of church leaders to endorse the Knights Templar on behalf of the church officially. This move makes them a favored charity. Soon they are flush with money, land, and businesses from those wanting to support the fight in the Holy Land.

Ten years later, Pope Innocent II exempts the Templar from obedience to local laws. They can go where they want, don’t pay taxes, and only report to the pope.

By 1150, they are a multinational bank, issuing letters of credit in Europe to pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land. They use this windfall to buy up large tracts of land that they develop as Templar Houses and businesses. The Templars buy up farms and vineyards all over Europe. They are a corporation.

 

Losing Site

So busy with running their global businesses, they begin to lose sight of the Holy Land. They start pulling away from the Knights Hospitaller and the Germanic Teutonic Knights, who are still fighting.

They start losing battles, and in 1187, the Muslims retake Jerusalem. In 1229, the Holy Roman Empire retook Jerusalem, but it only lasts 12 years. The Templars are not part of that fight.

As the Muslims continue to retake what is today’s Israel and Syria, they push the Templars further away from Jerusalem. In 1303, they lost their last foothold in the Holy Land. They flee to Cyprus.

 

Someones Going to Pay

The people supporting the fight for the Holy Land want blood. The royals and Pope immediately try to disassociate themselves with the Templar.

Pope Clement V, is ruling from Avignon. He contacts the Templar Grand Master Jacques de Molay. Then the Hospitaller Grand Master Fulk de Villaretto suggesting they merge the two orders. Although not big fans of the idea, they both agree to come to France to discuss the matter. De Molay arrives in early 1307.

King Philip IV of France owes the Templar staggering amounts of money. So on Friday the 13th, Philip arrests De Molay and most of the other French Templars. He begins an inquisition that makes the Spanish one look tame. Miraculously, they all admit guilt to various charges.

Phillip threatens the Pope with military actions if he does not join the dismantling. Pope Clement instructs all Christian monarchs in Europe to arrest all Templars and seize their assets.

Pope Clement finally disbands the order, citing the public scandal from the confessions. Most of the Templar assets he awards to the Hospitallers.

What Does Any of This Have to Do With Rhodes?

It is essential to understand what lands on the shores of Rhodes in 1310.

The Hospitallers, realize almost from the start, that Cyprus is not going to work as a base. They set their sites on Rhodes where they can be their rulers. They began the campaign in 1306, and after four years, Rhodes surrenders.

To avoid guilt by association, they rename themselves the “Knights of Rhodes.”  In 1312, with their new-found wealth from the Templar dismantling, they began rebuilding the city. It is a grand model of the medieval ideal at that time.

They divide up the spoils by their regions. These they call Tongues or Langues, and each one builds an Inn (barracks) within the walls. They represent the Crowns of Aragon, Auvergne, and Castile. Also, the Kingdoms of England, France, Italy, Provence, and the Holy Roman Empire. Each had an administrator who would report to the Grand Master, who had his palace.

The imposing walls withstand attacks by the Egyptians and Ottomans in the 1400s.

In 1522, Suleiman the Magnificent arrives with 400 ships and more than 100,000 men. The Knights number about 7,000 soldiers. The knights, with the help of their fortifications, keep the Ottomans out for six months. Finally, the surviving Hospitallers surrender and withdraw to the Kingdom of Sicily. There, they will rebuild and move their base of operations to Malta.

The Ottoman Period.

After the Ottomans conquer the Greek Islands, they lose interest in most of them. Rhodes becomes a second-level province, overseeing the nearby Dodecanese islands. Unfortunately, that means the Ottomans do pay some attention to it, and it no longer hasp freedom it once had.

Due to its trading past, the island is a mix of several ethnic groups, including Jews. The Ottomans, generally leave them alone.

The island declines during the early Ottoman period both commercially and in naval importance, as the Ottomans own everything around it.

The Greek War of Independence 1821

During the Greek War of Independence, Rhodes does not take part in the uprising. This choice is due, in part to a large number of Ottomans on the island and in the harbor. Many Rhodians flee to join the Greek rebels in other areas. 

By 1830, the war is over, and the Ottomans are evacuating the Greek mainland and many islands. Rhodes is not one of them and becomes the seat of the chief admiral of the Ottoman Navy.

In 1912, during the Italo-Turkish War, the Kingdom of Italy seized the island and several around it. By the end of the year, there is a peace treaty, the Treaty of Ouchy. In the agreement, the Greek islands are to go back to the Ottomans. However, the Balkan Wars begins the same week, and the Italians are too busy to turn over the islands.

1914 and the world is at war. There is no time to be dealing with the islands.

1923 and the Ottomans are striving for peace with the major powers of Europe. In the Treaty of Lausanne, Turkey has to renounce all claims on the Greek Islands. So the islands remain under Italian control.

In retaliation for the Italian Armistice in 1943, Germany attacks Italy, killing many of its troops and occupying Rhodes. They hold on to the island until the end of the war in 1945.

The British occupied the island as a military protectorate. Finally, in 1947, Rhodes, and the other islands of the Dodecanese, unite with Greece.

(BACK TO TOP)

Rhodes Today

Tourism is the big industry on the island. The beaches on the east coast attract large numbers of charter groups from Europe. The archeological and ancient sites are magnets for the history buffs. Rhodian cuisine and wine also attract visitors.

Other industries include agricultural,  livestock breeding, and fishing.

What is in Rhodes for me?

See & Hear.

If you are feeling adventurous, hike to the ruins of castles for panoramic views. Take a walk in a lush valley with butterflies. Listen to locals playing traditional music in a village taverna.

Taste & Smell.

Stroll the back streets of Rhodes Town or the twisting maze of Lindos. Your nose will find a bakery or cheese shop.

Rhodian wine goes back to at least the 7th century B.C. The wine phylloxera never makes it to Rhodes, so many wines come from the original grapes.

Feel.

To sit on an ancient wall of Kritinia Castle and look out to sea. You are watching the sun setting beyond Chalki Island, just a few miles off the coast.

The sails on the horizon, could those be an ancient Rhodian ship, finally finding its way home?  There may be better ways to end your day on Rhodes, but this one doesn’t suck.

(BACK TO TOP)

SHOULD SEE SITES

Rhodes Town

Perhaps the best place to start is at the top.

Acropolis of Rhodes – is on a hill they now call Monte Smith. At the summit of the Acropolis stands the 3rd century B.C. temple of Pythion Apollo, the city’s patron deity. Although much of the temple is missing, you can get an idea of its size. The site also offers excellent views of the city and the sea. Sunsets can be breathtaking from here. The location is open 24/7 and is free.

Lower in the archaeological park is the Hellenistic stadium, where athletic events of the Alioi Games took place. These were a part of a festival in honor of the sun-god Helios.

Next to the stadium is a small Roman Odeon. They still stage events here today. You can also see the remains of the temple of Athena Polias and Zeus Polieus.

Mandraki

This part of the city is a newer section of Rhodes Town. Here is a small boat harbor, casino, aquarium, and several excellent hotels. Just outside the Old Town walls are several municipal buildings from the Italians during their occupation in the early 1900s. In an attempt to build a new city in this area, they hire Italian architect Florestano Di Fausto. He lays out a city plan and drawings for fifty buildings and homes. Before political bickering cancels the project, he finishes 32 of the projects. These include:

• Palazzo del Governo – dating from 1926 is today, the prefecture building.  The Venetian Gothic style, in white and pink stone, is a nod to the Doge’s Palace in Venice.

• The Post Office building – dating from 1927 is in the neo-Renaissance style. In an attempt to give the area “age” with different architectural styles, this is often people’s least favorite.
• Grande Albergo delle Rose, – dating from 1927 is now the Casino Rhodos. The original design was a mix of Byzantine, Arabian, Ottoman, and Venetian design. A governor in the late 1930s did not like it and orders a softening of the architecture.
• The Catholic Cathedral of Saint John of the Knights – dating from 1925 is now Evangelismos Greek Orthodox church. The building is along the lines of the previous church of the same name. Many people refer to it (incorrectly) as the Venetian clock tower.

Inner Harbor

• Mercato Nuovo (Nea Agora, “New Market”) – was the center of his new city. A mixture of Arabian and Oriental styles, it was the city market. Today, it is home to tourist shops and cafes. In the central part, you can often find where the locals sit to have coffee.

Fascist Architecture

The fascist ruling party begins adding their mark upon Mandraki in 1937. They also try to erase some of the past, such as changing the casino.

• The Teatro Puccini dating from 1937 is now the National Theater.  It has 1,200 seats.
• Casa del Fascio dating from 1939 is in typical fascist style. It now serves as the City Hall.

The Harbor

• Hirschkuh Statue – stands at the entrance to the Mandraki Harbor. It is two columns with deer on top. Although there is no proof, legend says they are on the spot where the feet of the Colossus was standing.

Tower and Fort of Saint Nicholas – guards the Mandraki military harbor. The tower, dating from 1467 was at the end of a natural mole (breakwater.) After the siege of Rhodes, the Grand Master orders the building of the bastion around the tower in 1480. Round stones in the foundation have nothing to do with the tower. They are of a size and design that could support an enormous statue.

Rhodes Windmills – Today, only three of the original 12-14 windmills remain on the mole. The building is by Venetian prisoners beginning in 1218. As there is no river nearby, the mills were essential for milling the grain. There may have been an additional 20 around Rhodes town.

The Old Town

Rhodes Old Town – is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. – The collection of medieval Frankish, Byzantine, and Ottoman structures makes it unique, especially on an island. Should see sites, starting at the top:

• D’ Amboise Gate – dating from 1512 A.D. carries the name of the Grand Master who oversaw its building. It’s the most ornate of the city gates and consists of many layers an opponent would need to breakthrough. It is adjacent to the Palace of the Grand Masters.

The City Defenses – that you see today are dating from 1310, with the building by the Knights of Rhodes. They sit upon walls from the 3rd  century B.C.

Today there are 11 gates:

• Marine Gate – was one of the original gates, giving access from the old town to the harbor. The round shape makes less of a target for cannonballs. It deflects those not making a direct hit.

• Gate of Agia Aikaterini (St. Catherine), was formerly the Gate of the Mole. Dating from 1357, it was the main road to the Mole (commercial harbor.)

• Gate of the Arsenal – dating from 1370, is a connection to the old port Kolona. It is adjacent to the Liberty Gate.
• Arnaldo Gate – was one of the original gates and may have gone by the name Middle Gate in the beginning. Its primary purpose was to give direct access to the hospital from the port. It will go through remodeling and resizing until the mid 15th century.

Additional Gates

• The Gate of Agios Athanasios (St. Athanasius) – dating from 1450, the knights from the Inn of the Kingdom of England were in charge of its security. After the Ottoman invasion, they seal the gate until 1922 when the Italians arrive.
• Gate of Agios Ioannis (St. John) – dating from 1457 it also goes by the name Red Gate. This naming may, or may not be, because of bloody battles at the gate on numerous occasions.

• The Gate of St Paul – dates from the 15th century. It was the original gate from the old town to what would later become Mandraki. After severe damage from bombing in WWII, it receives modern updating.

• Acandia Gate – dating from the 15th century, it probably is not the original location of the gate. It would be closer to the tower of the Italians, (knights) who were overseeing its defenses.  It leads to farmland and the east side of the island. Did the later Italians move it in the 1920s for better access to and from the city?
• D’ Amboise Gate – is the last gate the knights will build. They finish construction less than ten years before the Ottomans sacked the city in 1522. The original plan is for it to replace the two earlier Overseer and St. Anthony gates. It is an excellent example of the level of opulence the Knights (of poverty) now have. It is the pride before the fall.

Later Gates

• Liberty Gate – dates from 1924. It is an addition by the Italians to give access from the old city to their new town in Mandraki. Across the parking lot inside, are very few ruins of a 3rd-century-BC Temple to Aphrodite.
• The Gate of the Virgin – also dates from the Italian period. It connects the old town with new harbor areas to the east. The gate does not open until 1955.

Other Defenses

• Walls – There are approximately 2.5 miles of the wall connecting these gates. From noon – 3:00 PM, you can walk the portion from near the palace to the Red Gate. There is a small fee. The wall is a separate attraction from the castle. July and August are not great times to walk the walls as there is no shade.
• The Moat. – You can access the moat area 24/7 for free. I prefer this over the walls as now you are standing at the base looking up. You get a feel for how massive these walls are. Although there is little shade mid-day, in the morning and later afternoon the shadows make them even more dramatic. I think it’s a great secret. There is also wooded park outside the moat that offers some proper perspectives of the walls.

• The Hidden Bridge – Supposedly, there is a Greek Footbridge in the area of the Acandia Gate. It dates to the 3rd century B.C. It is one of only 2-3 Greek bridges with a vault remaining. I call it the hidden bridge because, in 20+ visits to Rhodes, I have yet to find it. It is not on any maps. I cannot see a single historical marker for it. I ask locals who say they do not know of it, or I get the other answer. “ohh yeah, keep going that way” and pointing in the opposite direction of the last person “helping” me. Just say, I do not know.

And then there are the “helpful” pictures on the web. “experts” post pictures of Byzantine, Roman, or bridges from the days of the knights. They have 2-3 vaults and are wide enough for a semi-trailer. These are not a Greek footbridge.

Here are the clues.

• • It crosses a trench parallel to the ancient city walls. Which walls? The Knights walls? They are getting pretty old. Hellenistic, earlier? Do these walls still exist?
  • It spans 26 feet.
  • There is one (1) arch nine feet across.
  • It is a footbridge meaning no more than a few feet wide.

Also in the Old Town

Top

• Palace of the Grand Masters – is a palace and fortification built on the site of a 7th-century citadel. It was the residence of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes. Also, it was where governing and legislative works were taking place. It could also act as a fort in case of an attack. The Ottomans would use it as a prison and Mussolini as his home and office.

• Street of the Knights – is a medieval street running from the palace at the top, down to the old harbor. Along this street are the Inns (barracks) of the Knights. Today, they are private homes and businesses, but you can still see the coat-of-arms on the outside.

Starting at the top, on your left is St John of the Collachio. Formerly a church for the Knights’ with an underground passage to the palace. Across the street is the Inn of Spain. Next, on the left is the Inn of Provence. Look for the four coats of arms forming the shape of a cross (+) over the door.

Next on the left is the Inn of Italy. It has two large windows with dark brown trim and a cross of coat-of-arms on the second floor. Next is the small Church of the Holy Trinity that does have visiting hours.  Further along, the Inn of France is the most ornate of all the inns. You can visit the courtyard most mornings.

Just Off the Street

• The Mansion of Diomede de Vilaragut is at the corner of Lachitos street. The thinking is that this 15th-century mansion may have been a private residence for the administrator of the Grand Hospital. They have been trying for years to restore it and use it as a museum.  For now, you can only admire the outside.

Bottom

• The Hospital – is an imposing building dating from 1489. It was necessary to replace a smaller, older hospital that ran out of space. In the middle is a courtyard where they would have medicinal and aromatic plants and herbs. Downstairs were offices and storerooms. Upstairs were two wards for the sick and wounded.

Today, the hospital is home to the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes. The collection contains artifacts from across Rhodes island. These include mosaics, marble statues, urns, and funerary stelae. Also, it is home to the first-century B.C. Aphrodite of Rhodes.

Socrates (Sokratous) Street

This pedestrian walk is the main shopping street running from the mosque to Hippocrates Square.

Top

• Suleiman Mosque – sits at the top of Socrates Street. Construction of the first mosque began in 1522. Much of the current building dates from 1808. It contains building material from the earlier church that was on this site. For safety reasons, they remove the minaret of the mosque in 1987. Today it is a museum open on certain days.

• Roloi Clock Tower – is visible behind the mosque. This Byzantine clock-tower, dating from the 7th-century, has additional architectural styles today. The views from the top are the best views of the Old Town. If taking photos, early morning or late afternoon are best.

• Turkish School (Tourkiko Scholio) – is adjacent to the clock tower and is undergoing renovations. (and then it isn’t) The architecture is beautiful, whether it is open or not. School is across the street from the Grand Palace.

Bottom

Hippocrates Square – is at the bottom of Socrates street. It is adjacent to the Marine Gates from the harbor. Everyone seems to pass through this central square of the old town once a day. It is full of tourist traps, but if you look, there are a few jewels as well. In the center is a lovely fountain where you might be able to get a handful of freshwater. By sunset, it will be teaming with tourists, three levels high.

• Castellania (Municipal Library) – is hard to miss if you are standing at the fountain. A wide stone staircase rises from the square on the east side. The building, dating from the 14th-century, has a great and common hall upstairs and a semi-open arcade.

It may have been the home of the Courts and a gaol around 1310 upon construction. It was the Mosque of the Marketplace during the Ottoman rule (1522-1912.) During the Italian occupation, it was the University of Dante Alighieri. Today, the building houses the Rhodes Municipal Library, archives, and public event space.

Ippokratous /Aristotelous Street

Ippokratous street starts at the Marine Gate and reaches Hippocrates Square. Somewhere in the middle of the square, it becomes Aristotelous street and continues past the Castellania.

• Admiralty (Orthodox Bishop’s Residence) – is a two-story gray brick structure on the north side of the square. For many years they were identifying it as the home of the Orthodox bishop. More recent investigating points to it being the residence of the Greek Orthodox Bishop. It is only visible from the outside.

Jewish Rhodes

• Evreon Martyron Square (Jewish Martyrs Square) – is the first square you see. Under the trees is a marker with six sides. It reminds us of the day the Nazis send 1800 Rhodian Jews to Auschwitz on one afternoon in July 1944. Today there are around 40 people of the Jewish faith living on the island.
• Seahorse Fountain – sits in the middle of the square. Before WWII, this was the main square of the Jewish Quarter, (La Juderia.) Bombing during the war destroys the square along with businesses and homes. The fountain marks where the previous fountain was,
• Kahal Shalom Synagogue – is a two-minute walk from the Admiralty on Simmiou Street. The Jewish presence on Rhodes goes back more than 2,300 years.

Their most prosperous time was during the Ottoman rule. At one time, there are six synagogues, including Kahal Shalom. The Kahal Shalom Synagogue, dating from 1577 has always been in use. At its peak, they may have been more than 40,000 Jews in Rhodes.

When the Italians take over in 1912 and adopt a Fascist regime in the 1930s, many Jews began to flee. Those that did not have to deal with the Naxi’s arrival in 1943. Kahal Shalom is the only synagogues to survive the bombing during the war.

Today, it offers services in the summer, when there is an influx of Jewish tourists and Jews visiting homer. It is the home of the Jewish Museum of Rhodes. It is a fascinating history.

Pl Evreon Martyron

Aristotelous Street becomes Pl Evreon Martyron as it goes east past the Admiralty.

• Church of the Virgin of the Burgh – are the remains of the first church the Knights of Rhodes build.  The apses and parts of a small chapel remain. You can get an idea of the size and scope of them.

Until its partial destruction during the bombing in WWII, it was the largest church within the Old City. It is “open” 24/7 for you to stroll among the ruins.

Chivalrous Guesthouse St. Catherine – is a hospice dating from 1392, as part of the building program of the Hospitaller Knights. It was for the exclusive use of guests of the Order. Like many of the buildings, it went through earthquakes and sieges receiving repairs each time.

Unfortunately, in WWII, the east end did not escape the bombing. It carries on with limited services. In 1985, restoration and excavating begin on the building. Very interesting.

(BACK TO TOP)

The Rest of the Island

East Coast

Faliraki – is a village and ground zero for Rhodes east coast beaches and resorts. Famous for its long sandy beaches and lively nightlife. South is Anthony Quinn Bay, with a small beach and rocky outcroppings. Other sandy beaches include Tsambika and Lindos. FYI – The south end of Faliraki beach is clothing optional.

Feraklos Castle – dating from the Byzantine era, it is one of the first targets of the Knights Hospitaller in 1306.  They maintain it as a stronghold to watch over and protect the area, but it has a small squad. The Ottomans capture it in 1523 when they invade. They soon forget about it.

Today, there is very little left to see. Nature, an earthquake or two, and building material recyclers have carried much of it away. The reason for the strenuous hike is for the incredible views up and down the coast.

Asklepiio Castle – is a good 90 minutes south of Rhodes Town. The hike to the castle is not too strenuous, but there is not much more than exterior walls to see. Views are good but not spectacular.

The Other Acropolis on Rhodes

Lindos – is a transplant from the Cyclades. Whitewashed buildings with blue accents terracing down a hillside. There are several beaches nearby, including the Bay of St Paul. He probably did not wash ashore.

The reason most people come to Lindos is for the Crusade Castle with the surprise inside.

The natural citadel has been home to Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, the Knights of St John, and more. All of them leave treasures:

• The Doric Greek donation is part of a Temple of Athena Lindia, dating from around 300 BC. Also a 4th-century BC Propylaea for the Sanctuary.

• The Hellenistic Greeks add a stoa and staircase dating from about 200 BC.
• From the Romans, there’s a temple dating from about 300 AD.
• The Castle of the Knights of St John that surrounds all the previous items dates from around 1317.

(BACK TO TOP)

West Coast

• Castle of Kritinia – is a hilltop fortress dating from 1472 by the Knights of St. John. Byzantine and Medieval architecture styles blend into a form known as Kastelli. The remains of a Catholic Church and other buildings are inside. These date from the Italian occupation when it was a sea base for their navy. It is an excellent place for sunsets. There is no fee.

• Kamiros (Camirus) is the remains of an ancient Dorian city. It consists of three levels. At the top is the Acropolis. Here, there is a temple complex of Athena Kameiras dating to at least the eighth century B.C. There is a 6th century B.C. reservoir that can hold enough water for 400 families. They build a porch (stoa) on top.

The middle terrace is a grid of parallel streets with residential blocks.

On the lower terrace are public areas including a Doric temple, the Agora, a fountain square, and a sacred space.

The Mycenaean Greeks inhabit it next. An earthquake in 226 B.C. destroys the city and the temple. They rebuild but the second earthquake in 142 AD destroys the town again, and they desert it.

Unfortunately, many of the finds are in the British Museum in London. That makes it difficult to see them in conjunction with the site.

And One More Castle.

•  Castle of Monolithos – is 90 minutes’ drive south from Rhodes Town. This knights fortress is one of the four more powerful fortifications on the island in its time. Today, only the external walls remain. Inside there are two 15th century chapels and a cistern.

The hike from the parking area is over dirt rock and loose stone. The views from the top are worth it — magnificent sunsets with the south end of Chalki island in the distance. There is no fee.

(BACK TO TOP)

Middle of the Island

• Filerimos – is a Gothic monastery of stone. It sits on the site of an earlier Byzantine church, which sits on the site of an ancient acropolis.

Ruins of the Hellenistic Temple to Athena are visible on the grounds. This monastery, dating from the 14th century, was the work of the Knights of Rhodes. The setting, with Cyprus and pine trees all around, is 875 feet above sea level. A short uphill walk will bring you to a giant cross where views of the island are possible.

• The Valley of the Butterflies (La Valle delle farfalle) – Towards the middle of the island, the Pelecanos river flows through a narrow valley. It is complete with a small waterfall and a green pool. Zitia trees growing here exude an aroma that attracts the tiger moths. The valley’s climate and exceptional flora, make for an ideal environment for these butterflies.

Starting in June, they hatch as butterflies. They spend the day resting on the trees so that you can see them up close. By September, they disappear to lay eggs, then die. The setting is quiet year-round. It is in a valley requiring steps.

• Seven Springs (Epta Piges) – is a nature area near Kolympia on the east coast. Here, seven springs are flowing year-round in a lush setting. There are several hiking trails and an (optional) 600-foot tunnel to reach the lake. It is a great place to escape the heat of a summer afternoon.

In Rhodes Town’s Back Yard

• Rodini Park – is quite a hidden jewel. A 10-minute drive from the old town (depending on traffic) is this landscaped park (possibly the first in the world.) Right in the middle of the city and I never knew it was there. I went for what I thought would be a 30-minute morning walk. It’s a park alright, from the Romans!

It sits in a small valley full of pine and Cyprus trees. There’s a creek, humanmade streams and waterfalls here and there, even a small aqueduct. A leisurely 30-minute walk from the parking area brings you to a Hellenistic rock tomb with Doric decorations.

There are several sets of steps, and the path is, for the most part, hard dirt and rock. Not great for jogging but I have seen some power walkers.

(BACK TO TOP)

Rhodes Summary

There is much to do and see on Rhodes, and some people don’t even know the island exists. Plan to spend a few days with at least a full day and evening in town. Then at least one for the island. And a day to relax. Then you need a day for wine and dining, and…

SEE RHODES.

TASTE RHODES.

BACK TO GREECE