October 27, 2019 – Venice

THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION

WHERE TO?                       TASTE.                        SEE

Venice seems to be on many wish lists, yet when I ask people why many are not sure.

Is it the gondolas, canals, or something else? The town and lagoon are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Then after they have been there, many people comment it was not what they were expecting.

I think part of that is they never see the real Venice.

They see St Mark’s Square, the Rialto Bridge, and all the crowds in and in-between.

That’s enough to put anyone off.

Working as a travel manager, Venice was one of my least favorite ports.

Moving large amounts of people in a city with no roads is not an easy task. The cruise port’s location did not help matters.

It wasn’t until after my sea days that I began to see the other aspects of Venice and like them. Venice has many sides.

Unless you plan it, Venice can be frustrating.

Most people do not plan enough time to immerse themselves in the rest of the city.

The Islands

Venice consists of six sestieri (neighborhoods). Each of these sits on multiple islands with bridges attaching them. The Grand Canal, looking like a backward “S” divides five of them.

San Marco is the central area and one of the largest neighborhoods. It encompasses the space between the waterfront (basin), the Rialto Bridge, and everything west to the canal. Along with Cannaregio, the two make up the north and east side of the channel. Further east is Castello between the basin and north lagoon. On the South and west side is Dorsoduro, the largest sestiere on that side of the canal. It runs along the waterfront on the south and borders the other two neighborhoods, San Polo and Santa Croce.

San Marco (St Marks)

You could easily spend a day exploring the San Marco neighborhood and should.

Today, we will focus on just this area. Let’s see if we can find a few places you did not know where there.

St Mark’s Square is the sitting room of Venice or the front door of Europe, depending on who you ask. Indeed, in the olden day, it was the first port for many ships coming from the east.

Let’s start at the water’s edge with the lagoon to your back. What is the first thing you see? If you said crippling crowds, you are right. Or you are there at 5:00 A.M.

• Saint Mark and Saint Theodore Column – To your left is the round Column of San Teodoro, with Venice’s patron saint standing on top. On your right is the Column of the Lion, with the winged lion statue on top. The symbol of Venice and St Mark.

• Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana – is the first building on the left and dates from 1537. It was initially to house the book collection of Cardinal Bessarione. Today it is home to one of the world’s most significant collections of classical texts. You can visit some of its grand rooms via the Museo Correr in St Marks Square.

Closer to the Square.

• Doges Palace – is a building you will see or tour on just about any Venice city tour. It was the seat of government for hundreds of years.

• Campanile of St Marks – is the red brick structure looming more than 300 feet over the square. The current one dates to 1912, replacing a similar one with parts dating from the 9th century. An elevator lifts you to an observation area near the top.

St Marks Square

• Basilica di San Marco – dates from 1063. The decorations are from several centuries and numerous locations. They do not allow photos inside the church. The church closes on Sunday morning for mass.

• St Marks Museum – is on the second floor (loggia) of the church. Here you can see the original four golden horses “borrowed” from Constantinople during the sacking of that city. It is worth the 5 euro admission for the view of St Marks Square from the balcony.

The Rest of the Square

Many may glance at, but do not realize, the rest of the square has something to offer.

Standing with the basilica to your back, the long building on your right is Procuratie Vecchie. It dates from the 1500s. On the left is the Procuratie Nuove dating from 1586. Both buildings hold offices and apartments of the most relevant political authorities. Napoleon builds the western structure (far end) circa 1810.

• Torre dell’ Orologio – is to your right. The Renaissance building with tower dates from 1499. Inside the building is a museum to the grand astrological clock above. Via a spiral staircase, you can climb through the different workings of the timepiece. 

• Caffe Florian – on the left (southside) is possibly the oldest European cafe still in operation. It dates from 1720. In the early 1900s, they begin nightly orchestra concerts on the piazza outside. These always take place during the warm months. 

Did You Know, There are Museums.

• Museo Correr – is in the southwest corner of the square. It consists of three sections of incredible Venetian history and art. 

The Neoclassical Rooms are in the Napoleonic Wing. 

The Imperial Apartments of the Royal Palace, make up the second section. The majority of the decorations are from the Hapsburg period of occupation. 

The third section is Venetian History on the main floor and art on the second. Access to the Monumental Halls of the Biblioteca is through this museum.

• National Archaeological Museum Venice – is in the same building, next to the Campanile. It also requires entrance from the Museo Correr. The collection of artifacts and sculptures gives an insight into Roman life on the mainland.

The Rest of San Marco

There is so much more to the San Marco neighborhood. Many people have no idea what it holds.

• San Moisè – is a Baroque Catholic church formerly from the 8th century. The elaborate faced dates from circa 1668. The church honors Moses, and the altarpiece depicts him receiving the Ten Commandments. The church is two-minutes walk west of Museo Correr.

• Teatro la Fenice – is the Venice opera house. The current building dates from 1836 after a fire destroys the previous 1792 structure. 

• Santa Maria Giglio Zobenigo (St. Mary of the Lily) – is a should see if you like Venetian Baroque. The exterior is fabulous, even if it has no Christian images. Inside, they have the only painting in Venice by the Flemish painter Rubens. The current church, dating from 1681, is a five-minute walk west of San Moise.

And We Are Walking

Standing at Santa Maria, on the left (as you face the church), is a street. It is Ponte Duodo O Barbarigo, but good luck finding a street sign. At the back of the church, take the staircase to the right and across the canal. Another bridge and you come to Campo (field), San Maurizio.

Why is there a six-sided statue in the center? In the old days, freshwater was a problem in the swamp. Under the “field” is a large cistern where they would capture the rainwater from the roofs. That’s the top of the well, not a statue. The church is now a music museum.

Continue walking west from the northwest corner by the church. Over one more canal and you arrive at Campo Santo Stefano.

Campo Santo Stefano.

• Chiesa di Santo Stefano – is the parish church at the north end of the piazza. The Gothic Catholic church dates from the 1400s, with additions from the 1500s. 

To me, a fascinating part of the church is the leaning campanile (bell tower). Unfortunately, you cannot see it from the front of the church. You need to walk to the far side of the square to see the top and the tilt.

• San Vidal – is to the south of the science institute and is my favorite building on this piazza. A former San Marco church, much dating from 1696, is now an event and concert hall. The “house band” is a chamber music group. See the website (orange link) for concerts.

• Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti – is a 1565 palace opposite San Vidal. Over the years, it has gone through many owners and renovations. Past owners include Archduke Frederick Ferdinand of Austria, who dies there at age 26. Henri, Comte de Chambord, of the French House of Bourbon, Baron Raimondo Franchetti, and his wife, Sarah Luisa de Rothschild. Today, it is part of The Veneto Institute of Sciences, Letters, and Arts, who use it as a conference center.

Other Sites in San Marco.

• Grassi Museum – is in the Palazzo Grassi dating from 1655. This palace is the last new building on the Grand Canal before the decline of the Venetian Republic. You can see a difference in its architecture to others made earlier. The permanent collection is François Pinault’s private collection of modern and contemporary art.

• Museo Fortuny – is an art gallery in a palace built for the Pesaro family in the 1400s. Circa 1902, Mariano Fortuny purchases the mansion and opens a fashion studio there. Fashion is his second career after one in stage scenery and lighting design and invention. The museum houses many examples of his work from both professions and the paintings of his father, an artist. 
• Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo – is all about the spiral staircase. After years of restoration, in 2018, they reopen the stairs on the outside to the public. Climbing the six stories brings you to an enchanting view over the rooftops of Venice. The staircase is a three-minute walk from the Museo Fortuny. It is a five-minute walk from the northwest corner of St Mark’s Square.

San Marco Summary

Hopefully, you see that there is much more to Venice than what most people see.

This walk covers only one neighborhood.

In future blogs, we will cover other neighborhoods. Hopefully, this will stir your exploring genes.

Read more about Venice

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“See Paros” Continued on Page T3         “Taste Santorini” Continued on T11