THE THOMS SUNDAY TRAVEL SECTION.
Where is Bellagio Village?
Did they name it after a hotel in Las Vegas?
Bellagio sits at the northern tip of a triangular peninsula that juts into Lake Como. This makes the lake look like an upside-down “Y.” At the lower left (west) corner of the lake is the town of Como. It sits less than six miles from the Swiss border.
At the lower right (east) is Lekko Italy. A wonderful lakefront town few Americans ever find.
Milan is an hour’s drive south of the town of Como. Train service also connects the two cities making this the gateway for many visitors.
Lake Como Region.
The region is like a wonderful old book store. You go into the town of Como, and you think you know everything that’s there. But you don’t.
You find this nook that you didn’t see a moment ago.
And then you find the next room. You cannot even see it from the front door, but it’s there with numerous more shelves and selections.
The towns along Lake Como are like this. Each one full of new treats, many you did not know were there.
At some point, you need to get out on the lake and see the area from this perspective. The Navigazione Lago di Como offers boat service to numerous towns on the lake.
Cernobbio.
Along the west coast of the lake, less than 30 minutes north of Como town, is Cernobbio, Italy.
Where it actually begins and ends, I think only the postman knows.
The Villa d’Este Hotel sits on the shore of the lake here. This five-star resort is in a 16th-century royal residence.
When designing hotel programs for a luxury cruise line, I was offering a two-night stay at this property.
I am a hotel snob.
My to-do list of grande hotels I hope to visit and maybe stay in is long.
I could picture myself on the terrace.
Finally, in 2018, I would have breakfast at the hotel on my way back from Bellagio.
Arriving at 10:35 am, I was a little heartbroken to find breakfast was over at 10:30.
With the hallowed halls calling to me through the trees, it took security several attempts to get me to leave.
Only hotel guests can pass these gates.
Like Mandalay, something is still blocking the way to me.
Until then, I am living vicariously through my guests who did gain access.
Tremezzo.
The Villa Carlotta is a royal residence from the late 17th century, which is now open to the public. You can tour the residence with its impressive furnishings and art collection. The gardens are equally impressive.
The drive from Como to Tremezzo can take anywhere from 35 minutes to three hours. It depends on how many times you stop to take pictures. I prefer the morning as the early sun rays are just hitting the houses on the hill.
Bellagio.
Two minutes north of the Villa Carlotta is the car ferry terminal at Caddenabbia. From here, it is a scenic ferry ride to Bellagio, less than 30 minutes across the lake.
Most of the streets are one-way, and there are not too many. I suggest finding a hotel near the lake so you can park and walk. During the day, parking is at a premium so inquire at your hotel where and when you can park.
There is a wonderful promenade along the waterfront from the ferry terminal south all the way to the I Giardini di Villa Melzi (botanical gardens.)
You share the pavement with one-way traffic, parking spaces, or cafes from the ferry terminal north. But it is still very walkable.
There are no ancient Greek or Roman sites to see. But that doesn’t mean they were not here.
Bellagio Village History 101.
A few relics are dating back to 30,000 years ago, but they do not tell us much.
Circa 520 B.C., groups of Celts from Gaul (later Spain and France) invade under the command of Bellovesus. “Legend,” says this is where Bellagio gets its name. It could happen.
By 225 B.C., the Romans are just about everywhere. They make Bellagio a garrison for the wintering Roman armies guarding the main route to today’s Switzerland and Bavaria.
Circa 80 B.C., Cornelius Scipio, a member of a politically active Roman family, imports 3,000 Latin colonists to Lake Como. Twenty years later, Julius Caesar imports another 5000 colonists, including 500 Greeks from Sicily.
If you shake a Bellagio family tree hard enough, you’ll probably find more than just Italian roots.
The Romans import olive, laurel, chestnut, and cypress trees.
Germanic tribes invade circa 10 A.D. taking the area from the Romans.
The Lombards sweep into Northern Italy circa 568 A.D. and remain in charge until 773 when Charlemagne’s Franks arrive.
Charlemagne divides the area into Feudal countries with Bellagio as part of the county of Milan.
From there on, Bellagio’s history is similar to Milan’s.
Read more about Milan’s history.
A Walk in Bellagio Village.
So there are no Greek theaters or Roman aqueducts to view in Bellagio, why go?
It is a visual overload of nature, architecture, and more.
On a clear day, the Alps are visible. There are lake views from every other bend in the path. And the fresh air and verdant scenes are everywhere else.
There is some medieval architecture.
Torre Delle Arti Bellagio – is an 11th-century tower once being part of the town’s defense. Today, it is home to an art museum hosting local and international artists.
Villa Serbelloni Rockefeller – The 500-year-old villa, once belonging to the Duke of Bellagio, is now home to the Rockefeller Foundation.
The villa is not open to the public for walking in off the street. There are interior visits on organized tours. The villa gardens contain some rare floral species, and a guide leads a tour each morning and afternoon. The views from the top over the village and lake are stunning.
Basilica of San Giacomo – is a 12th-century church, although several restorations have taken place. Inside, you can find frescoes, sculptures, and side chapels that will take you to a different century. The church is near the top of the historic district, adjacent to Torre Delle Arti Bellagio.
Let’s Walk Bellagio Village.
Before 10:00 A.M, and after 5:00 P.M., just walking through town can be enjoyable.
The crowds are gone and many remaining are locals.
As you depart the ferry, straight ahead across the street sits the once-grand jewel in the Bellagio crown. The 1873 Hotel Grande Bretagne. Offering the new electric lightbulbs, it was one of three grande hotels in Bellagio by 1888. By 1932, they add a casino, but Mussolini moves it to another town a few years later.
By 1972, the hotel closes, and a few years later, the hotel school also at this location. There are plans and drawings to return it to its former glory. However, as of my last visit in 2018, it was still a sad sight.
You can catch a glimpse through the hedge or the gate by the bus stop at the side.
All Through the Streets of the Village.
Heading north from the ferry pier, you immediately see mustard stucco buildings next to red brick. It could be Positano, Portofino or one of many other seaside villages, except it’s on a lake.
Something many towns and villages in northern Italy “get” is arcades, coverings, galleries, whatever you want to call them. Coverings from the rain or pounding sunshine.
The first ones you see look like they were an add on at a later date. At least they have them.
As you walk through an arch under the Hotel Metropole, you see larger, more substantial arcades. The waterside promenade magically returns, and there is a sense of order.
I like to walk under the arcades going and return along the village waterfront.
Every few storefronts look to your right. These are not streets; these are salitas. That means “climb” in English, and that’s what you do. These long staircases connect where you are standing (Via Roma) to the historic area’s upper streets.
Eat pasta with every meal; you’re getting a workout today.
These pedestrian streets are like an advent calendar. Behind this door is a house, this door is a cafe, and this one is a charming hotel. One of the best activities is to wander and see if you can lose yourself. The town is 2-3 blocks wide and eight blocks long. You cannot get too lost.
End of the Village.
After a few blocks, the arcade ends. I said it was not a big town. You need to turn left and cross to the promenade, but we are still heading north. Turn right, and in front of you is the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni.
It begins as a private villa circa 1850 and becomes the Grand Hotel Bellagio circa 1875. By 1918, a family purchases the hotel changing the name to the Villa Serbelloni. The same family still runs this jewel on the lake.
I have not had the chance to stay here, yet.
I can say a meal on the terrace, or a drink in the charming bar is a great reward at the end of your walk.
Bellagio Biking.
Biking is very popular in the area – for those practicing for the Olympics. There is a lot of uphill and hairpin curves.
The easiest bike route stretches from Bellagio down the east side of the peninsula to Osso’s village. Although predominantly flat, there is more than 300 feet in elevation change. At the other end of the spectrum are routes with over 3000 feet in elevation change.
For those into biking, The Vallassina road is a must-visit by bike (or car). At the top of this brutal stretch of steep switchbacks is the Santuario Madonna del Ghisallo (the Sanctuary of Ghisallo.) Just beyond is the Cycling museum.
This stretch of road is part of the Tour of Italy and Tour of Lombardy bike races.
Other Village Activities.
The lakes with water running off the snowy peaks of the nearby mountains offer swimming. You first.
I will be in the thermal spa at one of the hotels.
There is hiking, or you can hire a boat or join a lake cruise.
That House.
And for those who are reading this far for only one reason, The circa 1720 Villa Oleandra is in Laglio. I stand even less chance of accessing this home fifteen minutes drive north of the hotel I cannot get in.
After buying it with profits from their 57 varieties, the Heinz family sold it in 2002. This is the summer residence of Amal Clooney and her husband.
There is little to see from the street side except for a wall. Also, if you are not local, you will meet a local law officer.
The best views are from the lake and, by law, also requires social distancing of several hundred feet.
Bellagio Village Summary.
By boat and foot, you can explore most of the area. I find I relax here, not something in my usual repertoire.
And if you get off the main street, you will find many cafes full of locals. Some may be up a flight of stairs so remember to look up—that flight of stairs justifies my dessert.
Bellagio village is a great place to go and not plan, especially in the spring and fall. Many places, including hotels, close from November thru March.
Bellagio è bellissimo!
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“See the World” Continued on Page T3. “Taste the World” Continued on T11.